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Best of Yorkshire Grit (Read 3378 times)

daddy long legs

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Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 29, 2023, 06:23:12 pm
Had a pretty cool day out bouldering at Brimham on Friday and I would probs put it in a firm 3rd place of Yorkshire Grit favourites after Almscliff and Caley.

We weighed up a few other options before deciding on Brimham, such as Slipstones and Crookrise and I was wondering if any other spots in Yorkshire compare with the Cliff, Caley and Brimham in terms of quantity available and quality of problems throughout the grades.

Any tips for next time?

Bradders

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#1 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 29, 2023, 07:39:31 pm
Where to start?!

The big hitters in Yorkshire are probably Almscliff, Caley, Brimham, Crookrise, Earl, Ilkley, Slipstones and Rylstone. Then there are too many smaller venues (including plenty that definitely aren't that small) to count let alone list. I've lived and climbed in Yorkshire for 9 years and I still haven't even been to Rylstone...

All of those mentioned above have absolute classics throughout the grade range. Crookrise is missing anything at 8B, let alone a classic one, but otherwise each has more than enough for everyone to sustain many year's worth of visits.

SA Chris

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#2 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 09:05:01 am
Brimham definitely benefits from knowing the place, or going with someone who does, my first visit was quite bewildering.

Slipstones is the other end of the spectrum, start at the east end and work your way across. One to have in the back pocket for days when you need something sunny in the cold and quick drying. Are some places that are getting badly worn out deliberately being dropped out of favour? I'm out of touch.

Bradders

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#3 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 09:42:43 am
Are some places that are getting badly worn out deliberately being dropped out of favour? I'm out of touch.

With the exception of Bridestones, I wouldn't say anywhere in Yorkshire is getting noticeably worn out. The landings at Almscliff are obviously very well used but I don't think they're any worse than when I started climbing there in 2014 or so. There are some specific problems which have suffered, but only two spring to mind for me; Matt's Roof at Almscliff and New Jerusalem at Caley.

Then again I haven't been to Brimham for a while so not sure how it's fairing. Plenty of soft rock there which clearly needs care, but I get the impression people mostly stick to the more resilient bits anyway.

I don't think anywhere is showing overuse in the same way as Stanage Plantation or Burbage South Boulders anyway.

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 09:57:14 am
It was Bridestones I wasn't sure that shouldn't be mentioned. Definitely one of the YG big hitters IMO

spidermonkey09

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#5 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 10:21:38 am
It was Bridestones I wasn't sure that shouldn't be mentioned. Definitely one of the YG big hitters IMO

What am I missing about Bridestones? It has about 3 good problems, no? The fact its mostly sandy choss is neither here nor there when theres not that much thats *that* good, especially compared to Yorkshire as a whole.

Horror Arete, Jerrys Arete, Cleopatra, the Smart slab. Is there anything else that good?

36chambers

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#6 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 10:35:28 am
I really rate a lot of the easier climbs and consider it a great place for an easy circuit day. It's not always about beefing up your ticklist ;)

spidermonkey09

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#7 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 10:40:56 am
I really rate a lot of the easier climbs and consider it a great place for an easy circuit day. It's not always about beefing up your ticklist ;)

Fair, I did a fair few of the 5s around Small Smart and thought they were good but unspectacular. There are a lot of them though so can see its good for circuiting.

Bradders

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#8 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 10:58:05 am
It was Bridestones I wasn't sure that shouldn't be mentioned. Definitely one of the YG big hitters IMO

Really? It's a tiny venue in comparison to the ones I listed, and fairly small even compared to loads of others I'd put in the next level down like Ash Head, Ruin Bank, Shipley Glen, Lord's Seat and Simon's Seat, Guisecliff, Widdop, Woodhouse Scar etc.

Combined with the rock quality, which is dreadful and easily the worst in Yorkshire, I really couldn't recommend it to anyone (other than a quick look in to do Horror Arete).

Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 11:25:54 am
Quote
the rock quality, which is dreadful and easily the worst in Yorkshire

Nah. Spofforth and Hetchell are much worse. Bits of Almscliff are similar.

To the OP, the other big venues imho are Earl, Slipstones, Crookrise, Ilkley, roughly in order of worth. Then, as above, there are a lot of very good second tier venues which would be big hitters anywhere other than the south pennines.

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 11:35:45 am
Really? It's a tiny venue in comparison to the ones I listed, and fairly small even compared to loads of others I'd put in the next level down

Not sure I'd class it as tiny, I didn't count, but UKC lists 100-150 problems? Definitely a mileage day rather than big ticks.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bridestones_west_yorkshire-1016/

daddy long legs

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#11 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 01:21:02 pm
Interesting to hear that about Bridestones. Always liked the look of it, but somehow never got round to visiting.
Speaking of Spofforth, got fond memories of cycling there from Harrogate with a few mates shortly after getting into climbing and really enjoying playing around on the one interesting block there. Forget the name, but the scrittly highballs and traverse of the front face were always ace. Had many a pleasurable session there before I really even knew what bouldering is

daddy long legs

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#12 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 01:27:48 pm
Quote
the rock quality, which is dreadful and easily the worst in Yorkshire

Nah. Spofforth and Hetchell are much worse. Bits of Almscliff are similar.

To the OP, the other big venues imho are Earl, Slipstones, Crookrise, Ilkley, roughly in order of worth. Then, as above, there are a lot of very good second tier venues which would be big hitters anywhere other than the south pennines.

Never been to Earl, but heard good things, one for Summer isn’t it?
Also not really done anything at Ilkley… guess it’s time to buy Yorkshire Gritstone vol. 2 and hit up some of the crags in there next time I’m over.
Have good memories of Slipstones, but can’t say I was overly impressed with the bouldering at Crookrise, probably also overdue a revisit to be fair.

Any lesser known gems worth a must-visit? McNab at Lord‘s looks mega!

Thanks for all the knowledge all.

SA Chris

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#13 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 01:46:18 pm
Rylstone and Crookrise are definitely better as routes / micro routes / solos venues. Had one of the best climbing days of my life at Rylstone when mates didn't pitch, and ended up soloing all the easy classics like Dental and President's Slabs and a load of the highballs / micro routes along the crag up / around White Doe area.

Will Hunt

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#14 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 02:23:35 pm
I don't think you can answer this question without knowing what sort of day out the person is looking for.

Crookrise, for instance, is among the worst crags in Yorkshire for sub 7s. There's Ron's Crack 2 which will be too highball for most people on their own and what little else there is that's of note is hard to find and spread out over a hillside that is a nightmare to navigate around. Let's not pretend SADCOCS Wall is any good.

If you want one 7C+ roof then it's probably the best crag in the area/country.

OP, what are you after?

tommytwotone

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#15 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 02:45:04 pm
And on the flipside, Shipley is an absolutely amazing venue for some 5/6ish (also highball) big days, but apart from a handful of (admittedly very good) stuff in the 7s there's not loads there for the wads.

36chambers

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#16 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 03:08:43 pm
Never been to Earl, but heard good things, one for Summer isn’t it?

Although it can be better than other places in summer, since it's north facing, that's still probably the worse time to go in my opinion. It can be too midgy if there's no wind. Spring and Autumn are much better. Winter can be great if it's not brutally windy.

As much as I love Crookrise, I agree with Will's comments. It's not great for quantity available and quality of problems throughout the grades. I've been up there with plenty of sub 7A climbers who weren't too impress with the offerings.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2023, 03:22:39 pm by 36chambers »

Bradders

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#17 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 03:42:47 pm
Really? It's a tiny venue in comparison to the ones I listed, and fairly small even compared to loads of others I'd put in the next level down

Not sure I'd class it as tiny, I didn't count, but UKC lists 100-150 problems? Definitely a mileage day rather than big ticks.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bridestones_west_yorkshire-1016/

Maybe tiny was the wrong word. Compact? Certainly a lot less to do than at say Shipley.

Crookrise, for instance, is among the worst crags in Yorkshire for sub 7s. There's Ron's Crack 2 which will be too highball for most people on their own and what little else there is that's of note is hard to find and spread out over a hillside that is a nightmare to navigate around. Let's not pretend SADCOCS Wall is any good.

Just because you haven't done the 6s doesn't mean they aren't there. UKC lists over 140 6th grade boulder problems at Crookrise.

And Sadcocs Wall is great! What could be wrong with a tall, imposing, overhanging wall with nice holds and big moves to an engaging top out?

I think that's a common thing with Crookrise though. Because it's so far from the road, and yes a bit difficult to navigate on first acquaintance or when the foliage is up, people just go to a handful of well trodden things and therefore miss an enormous number of rock climbs.

Never been to Earl, but heard good things, one for Summer isn’t it?

No! Another common misconception. Yes, it can be very, very cold in winter if the wind is blowing, but the style of climbing is classic gritstone, with most things being slightly overhanging on small or marginal holds, where everything feels a Font number grade easier in good, cold, crisp conditions.

That's not to say it isn't a wonderful spot on a summer evening with a nice breeze of course :)

Will Hunt

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#18 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 04:02:48 pm
Yes, I've seen lots of 6s at Crookrise. A lot of them are down in that Khumbu bit. How many of them would you actually recommend someone goes to do when they're visiting the area? I couldn't be bothered getting my shoes on. Dragging two pads around a circuit there would suck the will to live out of even the most masochistic of Himalayan expeditionists. Even out of the Khumbu getting around between the blocks is just no fun at all.

If you can give me a circuit of 20 really good Font 5 - 6C+, with the bulk being between 5+ and 6B+ that I could happily trot round in a day then I'll concede the point. The main obstacle of the day should not be humping the pads between boulders or avoiding leg-breaking landings.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2023, 04:10:53 pm by Will Hunt »

tommytwotone

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#19 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 04:05:53 pm
Agree with Will. My only day out there was with the intention of doing Barry Kingsize (which TBF is a right banger), but it took a lot of hacking about to find it, get warmed up etc.

Oh, and another recommendation for the Shipley "Alternative Circuit" in the guide. Looks like a bunch of trivial sub-6 warmups but if you can get from the start to the area found YMC Wall you'll have had a good day already!

daddy long legs

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#20 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 04:49:44 pm


OP, what are you after?

Hi Will. What we were after whilst deciding on somewhere to go was a venue with plenty to go at between 6A and 7B in a mix of styles with some king lines/ 3 star offerings in a pleasant setting.

Brimham pretty much fit the bill, starting at Lover's leap then heading to Black Chipper arete and Titfield Thunderbolt and rounding off the day at Murky Rib.

Although I love highballs and would love to include them in the protocol, the knees can't really hack 'em these days, so I guess nothing with high fall potential.

Those who mentioned Shipley, big fan despite the urban setting and also one to go back to. Damn..... I really need to move back to Yorkshire!

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#21 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 04:56:41 pm
I've become really fond of West Nab, at it's best in the lower grades but just a really nice place to be. West Yorks and actually just inside the Peak Park. Not a million miles away is Blackstone (Lancs but the border runs across the top and worth flexing for) which if it was in the Peak, people would be all over. Both of them take a bit of ferreting around to get the best but repay persistence. 2-300 problems each.

Will Hunt

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#22 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 07:13:14 pm
With that criteria I'd say Earl, Widdop and Slipstones are the other A-listers.

Will Hunt

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#23 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 30, 2023, 10:34:26 pm
Forgot to say that Lord's Seat combined with Hen Stones is a brilliant day out in this grade range. If you're not fussed on highballing then skip Simon's Seat which you'll walk past on the way up.

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#24 Re: Best of Yorkshire Grit
March 31, 2023, 05:49:10 am
It was Bridestones I wasn't sure that shouldn't be mentioned. Definitely one of the YG big hitters IMO

Just be wary of random South Africans when you're up there  ;)

Def another vote for Slipstones, one of my fav venues in Yorkshire when i lived up that way 

 

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