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Power Club 689 20th - 26th March (Read 5148 times)

Duma

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Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 26, 2023, 08:35:38 pm
M - UCR 90 min, circuits. 2 x 6b+ to warm up, then: 6c7a+ {92/92 moves 5 min), 6 min rest, 7a7a (76/82 moves 5 min), 6 min rest, 6c7a+ (64/92 moves, 3 min), 12 min rest, 7a7a (64/82 moves, 3 min), 12 min rest, 6c7a+ (78/92 moves, 3 min), 12 min, 7a7a (68/82 moves, 3 min) Satisfying pump. Think next time will do 10 min rests from the start.
T -
W - lunch, Flashpoint Swindon, 1 hr. All the red "V3-V4" and black "V5-V6" circuits. 26 problems, flashed all but 4, and 2 of those were slips from being overly casual. Good wall and think I can use it more this year to free up maybe one evening a week.
T - TCA 3hrs, mostly trying hard things. Managed a blue I'd tried before, and 2 others I hadn't, one flashed. Finished a 7A+ on the comp wall too, along with trying a bunch of other moves and repeating a few tricky things. Should have stopped half an hour sooner though.
F -
S - Portland, Cuttings. A million people there, including some on The Breathing Method 8a, so sacked that off and thought I'd have an OS go at Infernal Din 7b+. This failed in many ways, 1: I fell off, 2: I'd forgotten I'd done it before 20 yrs ago, and 3: I was on the wrong route. Was spitting with rain by the time I reached the belay so stripped it. Rain stopped pretty soon and an easier route showed the rock was still dry, so decided to get back on what turned out to be Chasing Highs 7b+. Just held the reachy crux move, but fell bringing other hand up to a better hold. Toughie, felt easily 7c, though I suspect the taller gent would piss it.
S - Cuttings again, got on Breathing Method this time. Better than my previous go 20 years back, in that I technically did all the moves, but of the 8 that count, I barely linked more than 2 together. Sacked it and thought I'd finish off Chasing Highs from yesterday, failed at crux again. Gave up on the idea of getting up anything of note, did a nice 5 and repeated the still excellent Cutting Edge 6c+ (via a new set of bolts on the left of the arete, but how on earth this makes it a different route is beyond me)
71 kg
Lovely weekend despite the poor climbing efforts, was good to get out in the van.

James Malloch

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#1 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 26, 2023, 10:10:05 pm
thought I'd have an OS go at Infernal Din 7b+. This failed in many ways, 1: I fell off, 2: I'd forgotten I'd done it before 20 yrs ago, and 3: I was on the wrong route.

Possibly the best onsight fail I’ve heard. Sounds like a good week though  :2thumbsup:

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#2 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 27, 2023, 04:44:47 am
Power Club

Monday -
3x 90% hangs. BW plus 12.5kg. Half crimp
3x 90% hangs. BW plus 17.5kg. Open hand
3x 7sec hangs 8mm micros. Feet on chair

Tuesday
Depot after work
Red circuit V3-5. 20 problems. 4min/problem. Did 17 of 20. Very taxing session.



Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Reintroducing weight training once a week. Been reading a bit on how it’s important in minimising impact of lowering testosterone levels with age.

Took it steady, no big weights, arthritis & reduced range of movement in right elbow is very noticeable.

90s on the rower

Bent over rows
2x10. Bar plus10kg
3x10. Bar plus 20kg. (Go to 30kg next time)
Military Press
3x 10. Bar plus 10kg.
Bench press
3x10. Bar plus 20k. 25kg. hard
Dips
3x8 with green band
pistol squats
3x5 with blue band


Friday
Rest

Saturday
Went out to Burbage North for some bouldering. Wanted to try Striker (left hand), Sitting in Oxford. Some guys had a top rope on Striker. So I then had a go on Clunge to warm up using the low wall on the left for feet. Which does see logical, but reduces the grade a lot.
Got rained on. Bailed and went indoors.
Not been outside bouldering in a while. Found it difficult to warm up.


10x 4min boulder sets at the Climbing Works on the Yellow Circuit. Really nice circuit & nice holds.


Sunday

Peloton, stretching & mobility

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#3 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 27, 2023, 07:55:48 am
Monday - rest

Tuesday - popes board, got spanked as expected

Wednesday - went to cratcliffe, did my first 7C in a sesh (74 - good wallop) and did all the moves on Priestmaker and a few links

Thursday - rested

Friday - tried new pre-workout before going training, first time using pre-workout, usually just smash some coffee. Felt like I’d drank 8 espressos but without the jitters. Did 6 hours at the gym (not my best decisions but had a lot of energy to burn) - went and got a massage after training

Saturday - rested, very much needed

Sunday - one arm hangs with weight taken off. Usually do these on middle rung Beastmaker (23mm) but moved to the 1000 outside edges (20mm) and had to take of 15kg whereas I usually only remove 10kg - Jefferson curls and 6 sets of pancakes before bed

Nibile

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#4 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 27, 2023, 08:19:11 am
Power Club

Mon - garage session, cleans 3x10 90%, fast.
Tue - board climbing, one foot bouldering + 2 kg on PE 1 and 2. Back work.
Felt very good, let's keep the BM pockets sessions alive!
Wed - good mornings 5x10 90 kg. Bar work. Amazing session.
Thu - BM pockets. Current project static first half. Thruster, back work. Tired.
Fri - regular weights.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - ab wheel, goblet squat + push, back work. Moved very heavy stuff in the morning.

Duncan Disorderly

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#5 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 27, 2023, 12:43:32 pm
M: AW Liverpool (had to go get a new passport for my daughter so went to the Tate and AW) - Pretty underwhelmed by the place tbh, very quirky venue but the setting was shit and the place felt tired overall... Did 8 routes up to F6c and bailed.
T: Yoga - Hip and flexibility work.
W: Moonboard - 2 new benchmarks 6A & 6B, worked 6C project, done all the moves now... Shoulder tweak at the end of the session - doh!
T: Rest - worried as it's the shoulder with the SLAP tear that has been fine but could go awry at any time...
F: Rest
S: Rest - shoulder feeling much better... Phew! Walk in't Peak, had a look at The Sissy, might get on it....
S: Moonboard - 10 x session on inc a new 6A+ benchmark - Worked 6C project, rinsed it til the final dyno for a jug and held it! So surprised I let go... Arrrrggghhh!!! Back around again! Couldn't get close again...

Mixed bag - glad the shoulder tweak wasn't serious, gotta remember to be mindful of it though... Really enjoying the Moonboard, absolute sandbag but definitely feeling stronger yet humbled - how hard are the actual "hard" problems on that thing?!?!?!? Font next week so probably take it easy this week....

Aussiegav

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#6 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 27, 2023, 08:49:19 pm

W: Moonboard - 2 new benchmarks 6A & 6B, worked 6C project, done all the moves now...

Which set??

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#7 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 27, 2023, 10:13:43 pm
Having no internet while in Slovenia meant I didn't bother posting for a while, and I didn't do much training while away.

We stopped off on the way in Nurnberg and tried out E4 Boulderhall. Found it challenging to keep the feet on many problems - possibly spoiled in TCA with regularly cleaned holds?

4th March:  Lijak. First taste of early spring climbing on one our "local" crags (50 mins drive). Shock to the system to be back o the notoriously savage low grades. Under 7b routes are typically one letter grade harder than Spain / greece etc. but some routes, especially 6a-6c can feel like they're nearly full number grade out...   Moved over to the upper crag and got totally shut down on a 7a, barely scraping through the moves bolt to bolt on savage sharp holds with long deadpoint moves. Not the ego massage holiday onsighting mecca...   Even had to rest on a 6b+.  Had a minor wobble that we'd made a bad decision buying cheap property in the vicinity....

5th March: Our "actual" local crag, 15 mins drive and 15 mins walk. Senica. Slightly more amenable climbing, but still some surprisingly difficult moves on a 6a+ (as in, as hard as the crux on Magic Festival, 7c, Margalef...). Didn't have a lot of time and it was cold and windy, so just plugged away at a few low 6s, but just before leaving I swung across from the top of one route and did the 6c+ (Olimipjska) onsight which felt like redemption.

7th March (iirc): Short fingerboard session, just light hangs for finger conditioning.

9th March: Ljubljana day trip to go to a bigger hardware store and go to the indoor lead wall. (raining). Nice wall, interesting routes. 6s still hard but less so that outside. Scraped up some 6cs and 6c+s with a lot of difficulty, then tried a 7c that looked nice. O/s first half, then a couple of rests to the top. Surprisingly amenable. 

11th: Skiing in the sun at Bovec/Sella Nevea - saw some nice looking rock about and got some fun turns on some spring snow. Felt shivery and dizzy when I got home...

12th felt pretty unwell / dizzy, lazy day, then went for a walk later to explore the local area, 3.5 hours in the end!

13th, back to Senica for another short session. 6a, 6b (fighty) and then tried to onsight the 7a right of the 6c+ but ran out of steam / ability / ideas and had to take a rest or two. Nice route though, just not easy to read. Reminder that grades are a guide and shouldn't be used to bolster one's ego...

15th en-route home again, indoors session in BoulderWelt Sud, Munich. Very corporate! Some cool features but all a bit sole-less.

17th Energihaven boulderhall in Utrecht - really good wall, but setting was a wee bit basic.

19th Back in Glasgow. AM: 30 mins yoga. PM: Circuits at newsroom. Started off just working through grades but decided to benchmark myself against the lactate threshold test for  "theoretical 7c in 5 goes" benchmark ala JWI...  i.e. 10 laps of a 30 (32 in my case) move 6c with 1 min rest between laps. Managed 9 laps and 27/32 moves on the 10th.

21st: stretching / leg exercises / light yoga (20 mins)

22nd: "no hangs" (light fb for finger conditioning), pressups, wrist curls

23rd: Just a fun TCA session with OH, felt lead armed and lacking power, but managed to get a second wind and flashed a few 6cs and 6c+s later in the session. Finished off with some gym work on the leg - 60kg limited ROM squats (35/40 knee flexion) and pull ups.

25th: Mildly hungover, wasn't planning on climbing but mates were going so I just went anyway. Had a top session! Got very close to doing a 7b white that suits me. Nearly flashed a 7a+ (first go fell of start move, second got to tickling the last hold). Good reminder I need to spend more time climbing with better folks who push me...
26th: back to prop store with OH as her back had eased up a bit. Arms felt a bit dead, so mainly just did slab and tech stuff. Benchpress, shoulder work and 35*squats. Finished off that 7a+, but agreed with others that it might just be 7a and it's since been downgraded.

Left deep finger extensors felt pretty tight in back of forearm. Maybe too much high intensity and too much woodworking... (year long project nearing completion).

Feel like I'm strong enough for all my aims this year, and fitness is pretty good - so I think I'm not going to push the training too hard for the next 5-6 weeks. Just steady endurance work and some power to keep topped up. Rather not risk injuries this year.

Coops_13

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#8 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 12:19:20 am
M: Board. Sent my first board 7

T: Hollow Body Holds. Max 52s. Shoulder press, bicep curls, chest press, lateral raise, diagonal raise, Svend press *3sets

W: Board. Worked some new projects, some good dry fires. Completed 4X4s on the board for the first time, psyched.

T: Hollow Body Holds. Max 55s. Split squats X5 *5sets. Shoulder press, bicep curls, chest press, diagonal raise, Svend press *3sets

S: Roy, New Mexico. Middle Mesqueno. Started off at Puddle Jumper V6. After a brief board warm-up, dry fired off the first move of the flash go. Bloody knuckles and lost some skin on my first pull off the floor in Roy. Almost sent but moved on as anti-style techy boulder was taking too much skin. Moved to Fun Bags V6 which I could have flashed with the right beta, went quickly. Got on The Slug (V8 in guidebook, def no more than V6). Fun wide compression, couldn't pull off the floor until I found the correct heel then it went first go. Unfortunately, my arse left the pad temporarily on one of the other attempts of the floor so cannot claim the flash... Went to Destroy the Castle V8. V beta-intensive compression boulder. Took a long time to find the right beta and had some good attempts. Fell at the very top, half a move from it being over - gutted. Pretty done after that.

S: Roy, New Mexico. Mills Canyon. Warmed up and sent Pumped Full of Roy V5 quickly, would have flashed if warmed up properly. Went down to see some other mates trying T.E.D V7. Stole their beta and managed to send very quickly, skipping the fingery crux with a jump. Finished on Jewbacca V5, should have flashed this too but fingers had cooled down. Nice finish to the trip.

Will Hunt

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#9 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 09:27:35 am
Moonboard on Thursday. Struggled to warm up and spent most of the session finishing the benchmark 6A+s. Got interested in setting something and figured out a nice 7Aish line of crimps. Hopefully do that next time.

Su - Rowtor. Was in the process of warming up when somebody fell off a top out and landed straight onto their arse so was doing the mountain rescue thing for a couple of hours.
Then Yogurt Hypnotist. Flashed to the rail and had a couple of abortive goes at the mantel which was a bit scrittly. Fell off exhausted. Had a couple of goes trying it in isolation without success. Then checked on UKC and found that loads of people, even the likes of Jim and Nathaniel, had ticked it just to the rail. Lost the will to continue. Later My Apple which felt very hard but suspect this might have been fatigue which had somehow crept up on us despite doing next to no climbing.
Would be interested to know what is now regarded as the easiest way to do this? Is it laybacking the crack with foot up on the right and a knee scum, or is it smear up on the left end Gaston the crack?

Johnny Brown

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#10 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 10:11:22 am
Quote
Then checked on UKC and found that loads of people, even the likes of Jim and Nathaniel, had ticked it just to the rail.

You know as well as they do that it doesn't count. My Apple is one of those where having a tag team approach makes a big difference, more intimidating than hard. I think I've done it both ways and not much in it.

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#11 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 10:19:56 am
I'm well aware that its not the proper tick, but it is a useful sub tick because the only bit of the problem that gets wet is the Chip Shop Mantel bit. Just a good way to get some use out of the dry rock. Also theres a video of Ned doing it where he drops off as well  :worms:

Theres footage of Jon doing the first ascent on My Apple on Winter Sessions funnily enough. I think I laybacked it. One of the few grit problems thats easier for the short I think as I remember the hard move being getting feet up onto the slab. Brilliant problem, the best I did there.

Dingdong

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#12 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 10:22:31 am
Im confused why yoghurt gets 7B - the compression section is piss into a sandbagged 6B mantel -  it should get 7A at most for the full thing?

Also agree that up to the rail is a valid line on its own but probably a grade or so easier than the full line

Will Hunt

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#13 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 10:34:00 am
Im confused why yoghurt gets 7B - the compression section is piss into a sandbagged 6B mantel -  it should get 7A at most for the full thing?

Also agree that up to the rail is a valid line on its own but probably a grade or so easier than the full line

It felt like 6C+/7A into a mantel that wouldn't affect the grade but has a knack to it. No excuses for not going to the top if dry. Poor show all round (except from Warbs who did finally get through the first bit then topped out, but had taken so long in doing so that were were all desperate to move on by this point).

Dingdong

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#14 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 10:37:20 am
Im confused why yoghurt gets 7B - the compression section is piss into a sandbagged 6B mantel -  it should get 7A at most for the full thing?

Also agree that up to the rail is a valid line on its own but probably a grade or so easier than the full line

It felt like 6C+/7A into a mantel that wouldn't affect the grade but has a knack to it. No excuses for not going to the top if dry. Poor show all round (except from Warbs who did finally get through the first bit then topped out, but had taken so long in doing so that were were all desperate to move on by this point).

The mantel is knacky but much easier if you’re tall and can lock off and reach for the top. If you’re shorter then it’s a right hassle and requires more of a rockover technique.

Also it’s quite obvious why it mostly gets done to the gutter. It’s wet 350 days of the year. Out of all the times I’ve been on it, it’s never been dry once  :lol:

shark

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#15 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 11:03:52 am
M. Font, Apremont
T.  Font, Rocher St Germain
W. Paris
T. Font Mont Ussy
F. Font Mont Ussy
S. Drive back to Devon
S.

Forecast was bad so we did well to get out 4 times. Was chaperoned around by Mark and Robin  :bow:. Particularly taken with Mont Ussy made more memorable by a bonkers, but happy, old lady who was there both times playing music and dancing and declaring the boulders were her babies and kissing them.

I did a few 5’s but failed on any 6’s I attempted  :-[

James Malloch

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#16 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 11:06:04 am
Quiet week.

Few runs including a longer loop from settle to check out Alcove Butress at Attermire.

Managed a few hours out on Sunday at Earl Crag. Failed on Handy Andys though started to get close to reaching out to the rail (i guess it needs a committing udge?).

Then failed on trick arête despite flashing it 6 years ago. Bailed due to cold hands and little blizzard.

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#17 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 12:41:50 pm
I did a few 5’s but failed on any 6’s I attempted  :-[

Sounds very familiar!

thought I'd have an OS go at Infernal Din 7b+. This failed in many ways, 1: I fell off, 2: I'd forgotten I'd done it before 20 yrs ago, and 3: I was on the wrong route.

 ;D


Phoning this in on the rest day.

M - Fingerboard pick-ups with left hand 18mm edge to 43kg. A personal best, for what it’s worth. Also a few right hand pickups to 30kg.
T - Journey to Cornudella. Shoulder and elbow conditioning when I arrived.
W - Wiped out from journey and life. Shoulders conditioning.
T - Easy climbing to 6a at L’Herbolari with The Fell Runner. Exchanged Yosemite stories. Walked up to Montsant, glorious.
F - More easy climbing with The Fell Runner, as above.
S - Elbows a bit sore. Shoulder and elbow conditioning as above. Collected H from Barcelona.
S - Sirunella Est with H. A couple of 6bs including the excellent Pembrokesque La Discordia. 
Bonus M - Sirunella Est with H. Three more routes including the very excellent La marca del sorru (6b+, or about E2 if you can jam)

I’ve been visiting Siurana for 20+ years now. Before this trip I was concerned I’d find it crowded, polished, over-familiar, and too warm. It’s been great so far and none of the above have applied. Though it’s clearly on US climber’s radar (blame Real Rock) the style, bolting and grading are not as popularist as, say, Chulillia and it’s not felt too busy or overused where I’ve been. Lo Refugi and the van ghetto have both been sociable, it’s been great bumping into old friends and seeing the place through new eyes. It is still a beautiful place.

Easing gently into climbing, definitely no falls or try-hards so far, will aim to a bit of both next week.

Duma

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#18 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 01:01:10 pm
It's a great place isn't it. I much preferred it to Chulilla of the two trips this winter.

If your shoulder feels up to it get on Lo Dejé to Blanco next to La Discordia, one of my favourites from last autumn

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#19 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 28, 2023, 01:38:03 pm
Quiet week.

Few runs including a longer loop from settle to check out Alcove Butress at Attermire.


Hi James,

Funnily enough I did the exact same thing this week. Really keen to try the matador. I've just moved to the area so looking for people to get out with. Would be keen for a session at Alcove buttress when it dries out. Drop me a message if you're looking for a partner!

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#20 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 29, 2023, 10:59:23 am
Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session, not the best one. Felt a bit heavy and arm was hurting.
W.
T. Started feeling unwell with cold symptoms so sacked off my session.
F. Patio DIY - inc moving 2t of stone and sand.
S. Patio DIY
S. Evening board session - really good one surprisingly. Sent a hard-ish project which was a basic sequence of crimps with a cut loose at the end, felt light and strong.



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#21 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 29, 2023, 12:15:44 pm
Missed power club a bit of late but I've been training very hard, full body stuff, lots of pulling, board, circuits, power endurance, edge pickups etc. Tbh definitely will need to ease off soon as starting to feel a bit overtrained, fortunately font next week will let me climb more and train less, then I've a week pushing again and finally a week off

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#22 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 29, 2023, 01:58:18 pm
Quiet week.

Few runs including a longer loop from settle to check out Alcove Butress at Attermire.


Hi James,

Funnily enough I did the exact same thing this week. Really keen to try the matador. I've just moved to the area so looking for people to get out with. Would be keen for a session at Alcove buttress when it dries out. Drop me a message if you're looking for a partner!

I'm also keen for this one it dries! Have been replying to James Facebook running updates on the dryness

James Malloch

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#23 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 29, 2023, 04:16:33 pm
Quiet week.

Few runs including a longer loop from settle to check out Alcove Butress at Attermire.


Hi James,

Funnily enough I did the exact same thing this week. Really keen to try the matador. I've just moved to the area so looking for people to get out with. Would be keen for a session at Alcove buttress when it dries out. Drop me a message if you're looking for a partner!

I'm also keen for this one it dries! Have been replying to James Facebook running updates on the dryness


It would be great to get a few people up there. Good for psyche and great for having to carry few pads up that hill  :lol:

I’ll check it out again if theres ever a dry spell again…

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#24 Re: Power Club 689 20th - 26th March
March 29, 2023, 06:45:25 pm
Quiet week.

Few runs including a longer loop from settle to check out Alcove Butress at Attermire.


Hi James,

Funnily enough I did the exact same thing this week. Really keen to try the matador. I've just moved to the area so looking for people to get out with. Would be keen for a session at Alcove buttress when it dries out. Drop me a message if you're looking for a partner!

I'm also keen for this one it dries! Have been replying to James Facebook running updates on the dryness


It would be great to get a few people up there. Good for psyche and great for having to carry few pads up that hill  :lol:

I’ll check it out again if theres ever a dry spell again…

I'm keen too. I managed to fall off the finishing match from the low start, having done the normal start earlier in the day, and haven't been back since! To be fair had a child shortly afterwards but still.

Did contemplate just taking the tick since it's a long way to go to do one extra hand move, but I don't think I could live with myself.

 

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