[Duma]

M - TCA am, blues (7A to 7C), and also whites (6B+ to 7A) as they were being set. Did all but one of the whites that were set by the time I left, and that one will be tweaked easier by this evening. 9 problems, flashed all but 1, probably only 2 in the 6C+ to 7A bracket though. Started trying more blues properly this session, attempted 12, flashed 2,  did 5 more. All the moves on 1, all but 1 move on 2, nowhere near on 2.
T - UCR eve, super busy but just about squeezed enough in. 6a, 7a, 6c+, 7b+ (dropped last move dyno with hand on jug), 7b+(stuck it this time), 7a+.
W - 12hr shift
T - 12hr shift
F -
S - Roche Abbey, (some of group not psyched for snowballing), was pleasantly surprised. Lots of stuff on Gypsy Buttress including Borg 6C, Crystal 6C, and Passion 7A+. Then along to Beef Buttress and managed Faith RH 7A and Faith LH 7A+. Excellent day.
S - took the pads for a walk around a very melty Burbage valley. The Burbage South boulders were surprisingly dry, so managed to do a few pleasant easier things.
71.5 kg

[shark]

Thanks Duma

11.8-12

M.

T. Ansteys with James K. Everything dry. Led Might and Main 6c+ and got a bit of a flash pump on it then got shut down trying to work Cider Soak 8a.

W. Weighted deadhangs and pull ups on a campus rung. Bailed from Devon. Travel back to Sheffield

T.

F. 2.5hrs of snow shovelling - a car park then flat roof.

S. Max hangs session on Ergo Edge. Best hangs 3x4secs with +32.5kg. Decent

S. Systems board. The usual benchmarks. Felt strong enough. One set of 20/10s timing 2 secs a move. Drove back to Devon

I’m keeping ticking over for when psyche returns. Max finger strength around previous PB levels. Shoulders have been a bit cranky for a few weeks. Ansteys tomorrow then on Saturday off to Font for a week staying with Mark H and Rob B and families at some fancy gite.

[duncan]

Thanks Duma

M - Watched the Ondra in Sheffield double-bill. Unreasonably syked. Did some over-eager pull-ups and flared up my right elbow again. NNFN!
T - Squats, walked 8km.
W - Fingerboard pick-ups with left hand to 40kg.
T - Walked 9km.
F - Fingerboard pick-ups left hand to 40kg. Walked 10km and spent hours in the Berwick St. record shops.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups right hand to 20kg x 5 reps.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups left hand to 40kg; right hand to 20kg x 5 reps.

Well that’s a bit crap. Going to Catalunya in just over a week and my elbow is not feeling great. There have been many times when a few days of easy climbing have been excellent rehab. On the other hand, on my last trip to this part of the world a similar thing happened and I did almost no climbing.

Will try some moderate loading whilst the elbow is settling.

[Will Hunt]

I'm back and I'm psyched. Malham season is coming.

To do: at least 1 board session a week, either in the garage or on the Moonboard.
Something fitnessy/endurancey each week. This will probably end up being board volume either on garage board or Moonboard.

T - garage board. Close but no cigar on a couple of things.

T - warmed up and did Wolfmother first go of the evening. Then did Scumboard. Good session. Good connies and fingers were feeling fiesty.

Sa - Burbage. Spent some time building the 3BM platform up then flashed. We wondered what else might be snow-free and went over to West Side Story. Have wanted to try this for ages but never thought it would be viable to have a multi session project in the peak. We were at a loose end so went over to try. Spent some time trying some duff foot sequences before revisiting my original method and refining it. Had a go getting set up for the pocket, going for it dynamically and just about catching it on my fingertips. Then hurried into the top, got it wrong and dropped off tired.
Oh well, that'll have to do. I was made up to get to the pocket. I took my shoes off.
Isaac Buckley wandered along the crag and stopped for a chat. He knew of West Side Story, knew about John Allen. We spoke of washing rocks.
After he left Dave was still trying so I put my shoes back on and, after a false start, managed to get to the pocket again, breathed for a moment, then went to the top. Huge YYFY. I never thought I'd do this problem; to do it in an unexpected session: beautiful. And Dave did it too.
Walking out we felt like kings, colossi astride the puny crags of the Peak 

[Coops_13]

W: Vertical Endeavors Chicago. Volume as wrist a touch tweaky and low energy. Maybe 13 - 15 boulders in V3-5 range. Pull-ups to finish

S: Eldorado Canyon. Forgot to re-attach shoulder straps so couldn’t hike into objective. Ended up at the Gill boulder. Warmed up doing a stiff V3 - really good. Worked and was psyched to send the mega-classic Colorado rite of passage, Horan Face. Really crimpy V5/6 - anti-style. Finished doing a few classic V1s. Wrist a bit sore on warm-up then no pain.


S: Hollow body holds, max 45s. 3.5 mile walk round Marshall Mesa

In other news, the board went up this weekend. c.120sqft of 45.05deg magic. YYFY

[tommytwotone]

Goal - back to Font 7a post knee knack / op / recovery

Tues - LSD eve. Enjoyable session after bumping into mates. Got up a weird funky V4 I'd been struggling with, and knocked off a V5 I thought I would never do the crux of previous session.

Thurs - ummmed and ahhed about going to LSD as the snow got worse and worse. Glad I didn't in the end, might well have got stuck there, or halfway home!

Sun - Depot Armley with the youngest. Bumped into Mr and Mrs 36chambers as well. Good session with the lad working through the kid's circuit, and I managed a fair few of the reds

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM clean, 3x10 90%. Mind was elsewhere, took five sets to get into it. Not pretty.
Tue - BM pockets and monos. Board climbing, current project static singles.
Wed - quick thruster and back work session. Very short on time.
Thu - one armers, loaded carries, ab wheel, back work.
Fri - AM as usual. PM bar work, good mornings, bentover rows.
Sat - tired. 30" EMOM finishers: clean and press 3x15, snatch 2x15, high pulls 5x15.
Sun - boxing bag, tabatas.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Snow not Sun Club...

M: Rest as just back from Greece
T: Moonboard @ AW - Managed 6C project... Great!
W: Rest
T: Depot with me mate and our daughters - Purples, flashed a few. Nice!
F: SNOW DAY!! Snowboarded down Meersbrook park a lot!
S: SNOW DAY Pt.2 - Nipped out to Burbage, had a look at 3BM, far too many folk on it for me - had a few goes on Small is Beautiful - Good fun but dripping and corniced at the top so no cigar... Had a text from a mate with a mobile ski lift so had a mint headlamp snowboard session down Meersbrook park til about 9:30... Proper good!
S: Board 10 session @ AW - 10 problems up to 6C then 2x4 Auto Belays @ F6b - Trashed!

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T.
W. Evening board session - a pretty good one.
T. Snow day and nursery shut = wfh whilst toddler raged
F.
S. Manual labouring - started work on the new patio. Out with the old wonky, weed/grass infested one, in with the new larger one with refreshed slabs inherited from the inlaws. Dug out some pretty sizeable shrubs to make way and got as far as raising the old patio and removing the old sand and weed barrier ~ 6hrs (it f*cking counts!).
S. Took lad to see his uncle John and baby cousin, managed to sneak an hour on his board which was fun, good to know I can still burn him off.

[Dingdong]

First one of these. Finished the new garage board a few weeks back so my week has mostly consisted of board climbing as I’m too psyched to do anything else. Anyways:

Monday - rest

Tuesday - sun salutation, overcoming isometrics and a board warmup, went to try my project ‘father I compress’ - failed miserably on the moves I’d found piss the previous session. A true regression session.

Wednesday - rest

Thursday - short board session 30 mins feeling weak on everything

Friday - max lifts - 45kg on left hand and 55kg on right hand - short board sesh

Saturday - pancakes (not the food kind)

Sunday - S&C (wide pull-ups +25kg for 2 reps, 2 sets || bench press 70kg 3 reps 2 sets, 30kg low rows 3 reps 4 sets, Jefferson curls, pancakes) - 3 hour skate session at The House and then a 30 minute board sesh where I felt super strong

This was a rest week as well…

[Aussiegav]

Power Club

Monday -
4x 90% hangs. BW plus 12.5kg. Half crimp
4x 90% hangs. BW plus 17.5kg. Open hand

Tuesday
20 min project on contortion groove.
3x4s.
Tired at the end.

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Snowed in. 
70% repeaters 6 sets of 6.
Body weight less 10kg


Friday
Rest

Saturday
6x 4min boulder sets at the Depot. On the purple’s

Flashed the 3rd. Failed on the rest.



Sunday

Peloton, stretching & mobility




Sunday

Peloton, stretching & mobility

[Wellsy]

Monday - power hangs, 4 sets of 4. Push session (dumbbell bench 3 x 8, ohp 3 x 12, ys 3 x 12, perfect pushes 3 x 8, hammer curls 3 x , drills, circuit.

Tuesday - went to Anston. Did Colt 7A+

Wednesday - went out in the morning to try something. Was mega battered. Pulled onto Sisyphus. Will probably have a proper session at some point. Did a pull session (3 x 8 wide pulls, 3 x 3 +28kg pulls, 3 x 12 low rows) and hip mobility that evening

Thursday - core (3 x 30 second hollow body lockoffs, 3 x 8 hollow body crunches on bar, all light band assisted. Copenhagen planks). Edge lifts up to 55kgs half crimp, 45kgs front three, 40kgs back three. 4x4s for Power Endurance, drills

Friday - rested

Saturday - mega board session, repeated all my old 7As, did a 7A+ project, made progress on other projects. Edge lifts up to 60 half crimp 50 front 3 45 back three, pbs on front and back. PE. Drills

Sunday - squatted up to 90kgs for 5, will try 95 next week. Hip mobility. Drills. Bit of core. Tired.

77kgs on Sunday arvo, so probs 75 before eating in morning i.e target weight. Urge to quit climbing and quest for an immense supertotal rising. Knee is rickety but probs better than I think.

[James Malloch]

M. Gym session. Got 4 sets of 5 reps on DB Bench with 24kg last week. Couldn’t get the 26kg dumbells up this week! But managed the same again with 24’s. It just seems to be that very first movement to begin the exercise that I was struggling with.

Added 2.5kg (15kg total) to my weighted pull ups and managed 4 sets of 5.

OH press i upped the weight to 50% BW. Managed sets of 4,4,4,3.

Good session.


Also had a board session using the boulder bot app. Got some really interesting problems done which i probably wouldnt have ever thought of 👍🏻