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Power Club 685 - February 20th to February 26th (Read 1383 times)

Nibile

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Power Club 685 - February 20th to February 26th
February 27, 2023, 03:00:06 pm
Power Club

Mon - ab wheel, thruster, back work.
Tue - board climbing. Tired, soft skin, not brilliant on currentproject. Motored through though. Loaded carries, back work.
Wed - ab wheel, thruster, push ups, bentover rows x5. Very short on time.
Thu - AM as usual. PM cleans 3x10 90%. Back3 Lattice edge hangs.
Fri - AM as usual; TRX, loaded carries.
Sat - regular weights.
Sun - board climbing, set and tried new problem. Understood crucial beta for the project. Back work.


Wellsy

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Monday - rested

Tuesday - went to try Colt. One year later I can actually do all the moves. Turns out you do get better at things!

Wednesday - Strength assessment. Turns out my core and shoulder rotational ability, and my low angle pulling, is all pretty poor. I'm also not that strong (as I suspected). I'm now going to get functionally strong for climbing. Nice one!

Thursday - limited time, training. Low rows, hollow body, fingers.

Friday - bit of indoor circuit business. Got on the board and did roughly a 7A and not much else

Saturday - rested

Sunday - good few hours repeating 85% effort boulders at the works. Low rows, core. Crossfit WOD (10 min AMRAP, 5 strict pulls, 10 pressups, 15 squats. Did 6 rounds plus the pulls and some pressups). Squatted up to 80kg for 5. Snatched up to 30kg, 3rd session on the oly lifts and just improving technique at this stage, made some good changes

New plan through today. I'm psyched! Gonna get some outdoor stuff smashed out in March (ideally Bumlog Millionaire, Black Prince, Colt and TLS)

shark

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Thanks Nibs


M.

T. Travel to Datca. Forgot to pack kneepads 🤦‍♂️

W. No fucking about - straight on a project. Soulcan was wet so jumped on Black Hole 7c+ after warming up. Two tie ins. First go just went on low techy and fingery crux and then second tie in flailing up whole route Did all the moves - kind of. Thin tips. Got to belay Vian as she redpointed her 8b+ project. 💪

T. More work on Black Hole. Two tie ins. Sore tips. Bottom crux starting to come together. Decent link from 6th bolt at end of fingery lower wall to 10th bolt.

F

S. Bit cooler. Decent breeze. Skin recovered. Three tie ins on Black Hole. First two just on lower crux making further progress and third tie in got all the way from ground to starting to rock up using glued on pebble. Then went from move above at 5th bolt and surprised myself climbing well without getting pumped or flustered and got all the way to falling going past penultimate 11th bolt. Relief to find I could clip this one ok as thought I might have to skip it. Then found an easier way to pass it. Good session that left just the final rockover at end of bottom crux sequence and the sting-in-the tail final move to get wired now.

S. Cloudy and windy. Good conditions. Felt meh and warm up felt hard. Had superglued tape to tips but didn’t work on low crux so took them off. Arms tired and couldn’t pull through the rockover pulling on the glued pebble which was disappointing. Went to top to work top heartbreaker move and sorted a good sequence including a cunning heel toe. Success now mainly hinging on whether I can stand up on the second half of the rockover.

Rest day today and 3 potential climbing days left or 2 if I do day on and day off.

duncan

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Thanks Nibs and power club stalwarts

M: Travelled home from holiday, walked 8km.
T: Warmed-up with pull-ups (sets of 2) and fingerboard (20mm edge x7s). Westway, bouldering: short, good session including another vertical V4/5 and four V3/4s of various angles. Rhinegold - Rheingold in English - at the English National Opera. My 14th live Rhinegold/Rheingold and one of the best, really really good.
W: Bleurgh, some lurgy. Slept lots
T: Not quite so bleurgh. A few pull-ups.
F: Somewhat less bleurgh. Pull-ups. Shoulder conditioning: side planks, ring rows, YsTs, press-ups.
S: Getting there. Shoulder conditioning as above. Walked 8km.
S: Nearly better. Drove to Pembroke. Shoulder conditioning: handstands (supported), press-ups, side planks. A short shuffle.

Week somewhat derailed by a bug that came and mostly went mysteriously. First handstands for about 6 months, a sign the wrist is slowly improving.

Duma

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M - sleep off nights. Eve TCA 2hrs. More blacks. Not feeling great, but did 6, 2 flashed. Attempts on a few others
T - am UCR 2hrs. Doubles onsighting:
6a6b,
6b6c+(hard),
6c(soft)7a,
7a+7a+(fell at penultimate hold),
7b+(fell at last move)7a
7a+(ticking off the one I fell on earlier)
Good session, nice to tie in, did a bit of fall practice too (not clipping the chains).
pm TCA 1hr. Easy volume, did all the yellows (5-6A).
W
T -
F - 12hr shift
S - 12hr shift
S - 12hr shift
71 kg

Yossarian

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M - Wall. Board. Longish hard session, plus a bit of work on prow project afterwards.
T
W - Wall. Board
T
F - Wall. Board. Kept it fairly short.
S - Wall. Did some easy stuff with the kids, then a bit more on the board. Then decided to check where I am on the fingerboard (finally getting home one remounted this week.) Managed proper 1 arm hang off both BM 20mm slot and 3FD - not quite a tick as it wasn't 5 seconds, but I did managed about 8 - 10 each side around 3-4 seconds each. Pretty pleased with this as I'm pretty much bang on 100kg (still aiming for about 85kg).
Then went home and did wide weighted pulls, assisted 1 arms and some tucked front lever stuff.
S - Battered

Have been aiming for 2x pull strength sessions and 1x push session around everything else, but didn't really feel up to it most of this week. Focusing on climbing on the board and generally being very selective about what else I do at the wall seems to be helping in the sense that I think I used to find combining the two and overdoing the latter meant it always took longer to recover. That said, my tip skin is very split-prone at the moment. Please with how strong I feel, though it's more static / lock and reach strength vs powerful pop off a foot and fly up the board strength.

Had been debating with the kids re getting away in their Easter hol, and finally settled on Font for 6 days. Everyone is extremely syked. Daughter also keen to get back up to Wales for a rematch on various things she started in summer 2021, so that's on the cards too. Realise my excuses for not climbing harder are now starting to ebb away, so need to decide on some targets and then try hard.

Liamhutch89

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Managed proper 1 arm hang off both BM 20mm slot and 3FD - not quite a tick as it wasn't 5 seconds, but I did managed about 8 - 10 each side around 3-4 seconds each. Pretty pleased with this as I'm pretty much bang on 100kg (still aiming for about 85kg).

This can't be far off the highest absolute levels of finger strength in the world.

Yossarian

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Managed proper 1 arm hang off both BM 20mm slot and 3FD - not quite a tick as it wasn't 5 seconds, but I did managed about 8 - 10 each side around 3-4 seconds each. Pretty pleased with this as I'm pretty much bang on 100kg (still aiming for about 85kg).

This can't be far off the highest absolute levels of finger strength in the world.

It is a great tragedy that they're attached to me and not someone else who could make much better use of them...

Aussiegav

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Monday -
4x 90% hangs. BW plus 12.5kg. Half crimp
4x 90% hangs. BW plus 17.5kg. Open hand

Tuesday
Depot after work
3x 4min boulder sets on the purples. 1. didn't do. 2. 2nd go. 3. flash

Circuits. 1:1 work rest
Jugs are cool. 5a+
Big jugs 5b
Benchmark jugs 6a+
Leding the way 6b
mini jugs 6b+ ❌



Wednesday
30min Peloton ride

Thursday
Short session at the Depot
tried 2 purples. failed first. tired finger's tonight. 2nd was a slab. I did it 4th go. in about 12mins

Friday
Rest

Saturday
6x 4min boulder sets at the Depot. On the purple’s

Steep wall ❌ scary flag & match at top. Try left foot in pocket instead next time.
Dyno aręte.  ❌❌
Left side roof. Flash
Gareth’s panel. Flash
Blob prow. 2nd go. Fell on 2nd move. Wrong beta
Steep wall right side. 1st go. Second session. Fingers felt fresher than last time
Went back and did dyno aręte. After about 6 goes.

Finished with 6b+ circuit then 6a+ circuit

Sunday

30min Peloton ride

Feel pleased with the week’s efforts & returns. Starting to introduce more aerobic work into my programming in preparation for sport season.

mr chaz

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Power Club.

Determined to keep posting so when I do get a good spell outside and I climb something worthwhile I can gloat about it. For now though, more of the same...

M.
T. Evening session. Warmed up then did 30 min max hangs session. Followed by some moderate bouldering on the board. Injured forearm responded well to this, was left very much looking forward to next session and the possibility of pulling hard on the board again.
W.
T. Feeling a bit :sick: so sacked off my planned session.
F.  :sick: Full on cold / flu symptons again, fever, headache etc. FFS
S.  :sick:
S. Recovering but quite tired.

 

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