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[Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+] (Read 3780 times)

jimpopeonarope

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[Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+]
February 15, 2023, 09:38:30 pm
Mother cap quarry boulder

I added two climbs left of Arthur’s bulge, one goes straight up and the other exits out right. My original grading of these was off, but the scrittle has settled a lot after some traffic so they might be even easier.
I’ve also created a visual topo on UKC for that face (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mother_cap_and_quarry-981/?highlight=676425#topos)

Cap Gun - 7C
a sit start on the lowest ripples finishing as for 'Left Wall'

Cap Gun RH - 7C+
Start as for Cap gun, but follow the mid-height rail to finish up the right arete.

Secret Garden

Darth Maul - 7B+
From a stand start with a sidepull and cluster of pebbles, maul your way over the blob. Stacking pads to pull on will make it easier.

The boulder is found roughly 100m down and left from the main sector at secret garden. 53.319047, -1.620473
A sit start might be possible

Doll Tor

I think this is one of my favourite FA’s, it looks and feels like it could belong in font.

Applied Imagination - 8A+
On the ‘gathering storm’ boulder. Sit start at the lowest part of the boulder using the foot-block and undercuts. Finish right of the tree.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52477052411/in/dateposted-public/

Matryoshka Direct - 7C (FA Ned Feehally)
Climb Matryoshka without the footblock. Jump start to a sloper.

Stanage Plantation

Hourglass Low - 7C
Start crouched with low dishes on the nose of the lip. Make a few punchy moves to join and finish as for ‘Hourglass left’
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cmj1rYVBS7r/

Burbage North

Unnamed and ungraded?
Ned put up a hard thing below superstition. Pull on high with a crimp and undercut Gaston, then lurch for the break.

Wharncliffe

Rolling Stones - 7B
Left of ‘Casu Marzu’ is a wedged block. Start in the cave with the back arete and a low undercut, slap to the front face and top out above. No footblocks. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wharncliffe_crags-85/?highlight=655122#topos

Gardoms South

Down below ‘Suavito’ by the path is a sloppy boulder with a few nice mantles

Blobby Noble - 7B+
From sat on the right arete, gain the vague nose and mantle up using the arete.

Ned climbed a line to the left, currently unnamed - 7C/+ - Stand start in the middle of the slab using a small footblock to pull on, head straight up avoiding holds on Blobby Noble

The Roaches

Walk in clinic - 7C
Right of the 'Peace of mind' slab is a hemmed in prow.
Start on the left-hand crimp and jug on the right arete. Climb the prow via powerful moves to a tricky mantle to finish. No footblocks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/51996776688/in/dateposted-public/

Froggatt

New Moon - 8A
Has a few rules but creates some nice climbing. Start sat as for 'Smiling Moon' and climb straight up. Avoid the juggy hold out left and the right arete.

Jetpack RH - 7C
A bit contrived. Start as for Jetpack, but make a big move out right to a positive edge, from here slap to the lip and mantle up direct without the finishing jug on Jetpack.

Unnamed - 8A+?
Ned did a great link-up on the jetpack boulder, It's pretty atypical of grit, with steep power endurance on positive holds. Start up ‘Marrowfat’ then drop down to the start holds on Jetpack, carry on right via big moves to a crack and top out there. Avoids all holds over the lip until the top out. Starting from the Jetpack start holds (half way) could maybe warrant being its own climb too.

Gardoms

At Gardoms, between the quarry and ‘Charlotte Rampling’ there are several big boulders along the hillside offering a nice circuit. I suspect some of these may have been climbed before as they are very obvious, but I thought they were worth recording as they’re all really nice, I've only named the ones I'm pretty certain are new, and grades could be all over the place. Climbs are listed in L-R order.

Dangerous Dan Low - 7B    (53.2532387, -1.5953467)
Jamie Lillerman put up dangerous dan, I’m not sure where he started or what was in. I climbed it from a sit start with the left arete and ramp eliminating all the footblocks. Its nice compression climbing, and the top section is great. The whole climb is pretty dabby, it is probably made nicer by using the footblocks rather than dodging them.

15m right of Dangerous Dan, is a nice rounded boulder with really good quality rock

Moss Giant - 6B? - start sat and climb the left hand side of the boulder using the aręte
Bryophyta - 8A - Sit start and climb the centre of the boulder, avoiding the left aręte.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52684393281/in/dateposted-public/

15m right again is a boulder on its side with a really nice lip traverse

Rising traverse - 6C? - start hanging the bottom nose of the boulder. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691549349/in/dateposted-public/

15m right again, and just before ‘English Voodoo’ there are three large boulders close to each other:

Big slab - 6C? - from the edge on the lip of the slab, make a hard slap to the crack, mantle then finish up the slab. This can also be climbed by stepping in from the right arete, which misses out the hard slap and mantle, but does the good slab climbing. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691278371/in/dateposted-public/

Cave thing - 6C? - from sitting on the adjacent boulder, pull on using the jug at the top of the ramp feature, and a low crimp. Slap to the lip and top out via slopers. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691549519/in/dateposted-public/

Steep into Mantle 7B - Sit start with a Gaston and undercut (Snappy rock) and slap to the lip. From here mantle up and finish direct. The mantle itself is probably better than going from the sit. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691696355/in/dateposted-public/

Arete - 7A+ - Sit start and climb the sharp cut left arete. Can be climbed purely by sticking to the arete, or using toe hooks out right. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691700545/in/dateposted-public/

Stabbsy

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#1 Re: [Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+]
February 15, 2023, 10:34:57 pm

Gardoms

Rising traverse - 6C? - start hanging the bottom nose of the boulder. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691549349/in/dateposted-public/

15m right again, and just before ‘English Voodoo’ there are three large boulders close to each other:

Big slab - 6C? - from the edge on the lip of the slab, make a hard slap to the crack, mantle then finish up the slab. This can also be climbed by stepping in from the right arete, which misses out the hard slap and mantle, but does the good slab climbing. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691278371/in/dateposted-public/
These two look familiar. I think Steve Franklin did them a couple of years ago. Me and Tim Hill repeated the first one - think we thought 6C/+. I think Steve called it “Big Night in Baslow” or something similar. On the second one, I think Steve stepped in from the right as opposed to going direct from the edge on the lip. That’s not to say his was the first ascent on either problem, but I think they took a bit of cleaning!

Dingdong

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#2 Re: [Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+]
February 16, 2023, 08:43:31 am
Good stuff Jim! Can attest that darth maul and blobby noble are both very good scrappers for the mantel/compression inclined

Fiend

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#3 Re: [Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+]
February 18, 2023, 10:44:48 am
Was promised 5+s, can't find any listed, worst problem update post ever  ::)

Big Slab looks fun tho!

jimpopeonarope

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#4 Re: [Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+]
February 18, 2023, 04:08:46 pm
Stepping into the big slab from the right is around 5+! Sorry forgot to put that

Yoof

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#5 Re: [Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+]
February 20, 2023, 07:27:52 pm


Vid of Matryoshka (with the block) for interest

monkey boy

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#6 Re: [Peak] [Various] [5+ to 8A+]
February 21, 2023, 08:44:01 am
And without the block, it felt pretty stern to me for 7C so could be worth a +.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn1cfnWtlBt/?hl=en

 

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