Mother cap quarry boulderI added two climbs left of Arthur’s bulge, one goes straight up and the other exits out right. My original grading of these was off, but the scrittle has settled a lot after some traffic so they might be even easier.
I’ve also created a visual topo on UKC for that face (
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mother_cap_and_quarry-981/?highlight=676425#topos)
Cap Gun - 7C
a sit start on the lowest ripples finishing as for 'Left Wall'
Cap Gun RH - 7C+
Start as for Cap gun, but follow the mid-height rail to finish up the right arete.
Secret GardenDarth Maul - 7B+
From a stand start with a sidepull and cluster of pebbles, maul your way over the blob. Stacking pads to pull on will make it easier.
The boulder is found roughly 100m down and left from the main sector at secret garden. 53.319047, -1.620473
A sit start might be possible
Doll TorI think this is one of my favourite FA’s, it looks and feels like it could belong in font.
Applied Imagination - 8A+
On the ‘gathering storm’ boulder. Sit start at the lowest part of the boulder using the foot-block and undercuts. Finish right of the tree.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52477052411/in/dateposted-public/Matryoshka Direct - 7C (FA Ned Feehally)
Climb Matryoshka without the footblock. Jump start to a sloper.
Stanage PlantationHourglass Low - 7C
Start crouched with low dishes on the nose of the lip. Make a few punchy moves to join and finish as for ‘Hourglass left’
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cmj1rYVBS7r/Burbage NorthUnnamed and ungraded?
Ned put up a hard thing below superstition. Pull on high with a crimp and undercut Gaston, then lurch for the break.
WharncliffeRolling Stones - 7B
Left of ‘Casu Marzu’ is a wedged block. Start in the cave with the back arete and a low undercut, slap to the front face and top out above. No footblocks.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wharncliffe_crags-85/?highlight=655122#toposGardoms SouthDown below ‘Suavito’ by the path is a sloppy boulder with a few nice mantles
Blobby Noble - 7B+
From sat on the right arete, gain the vague nose and mantle up using the arete.
Ned climbed a line to the left, currently unnamed - 7C/+ - Stand start in the middle of the slab using a small footblock to pull on, head straight up avoiding holds on Blobby Noble
The RoachesWalk in clinic - 7C
Right of the 'Peace of mind' slab is a hemmed in prow.
Start on the left-hand crimp and jug on the right arete. Climb the prow via powerful moves to a tricky mantle to finish. No footblocks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/51996776688/in/dateposted-public/FroggattNew Moon - 8A
Has a few rules but creates some nice climbing. Start sat as for 'Smiling Moon' and climb straight up. Avoid the juggy hold out left and the right arete.
Jetpack RH - 7C
A bit contrived. Start as for Jetpack, but make a big move out right to a positive edge, from here slap to the lip and mantle up direct without the finishing jug on Jetpack.
Unnamed - 8A+?
Ned did a great link-up on the jetpack boulder, It's pretty atypical of grit, with steep power endurance on positive holds. Start up ‘Marrowfat’ then drop down to the start holds on Jetpack, carry on right via big moves to a crack and top out there. Avoids all holds over the lip until the top out. Starting from the Jetpack start holds (half way) could maybe warrant being its own climb too.
GardomsAt Gardoms, between the quarry and ‘Charlotte Rampling’ there are several big boulders along the hillside offering a nice circuit. I suspect some of these may have been climbed before as they are very obvious, but I thought they were worth recording as they’re all really nice, I've only named the ones I'm pretty certain are new, and grades could be all over the place. Climbs are listed in L-R order.
Dangerous Dan Low - 7B (53.2532387, -1.5953467)
Jamie Lillerman put up dangerous dan, I’m not sure where he started or what was in. I climbed it from a sit start with the left arete and ramp eliminating all the footblocks. Its nice compression climbing, and the top section is great. The whole climb is pretty dabby, it is probably made nicer by using the footblocks rather than dodging them.
15m right of Dangerous Dan, is a nice rounded boulder with really good quality rock
Moss Giant - 6B? - start sat and climb the left hand side of the boulder using the aręte
Bryophyta - 8A - Sit start and climb the centre of the boulder, avoiding the left aręte.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52684393281/in/dateposted-public/15m right again is a boulder on its side with a really nice lip traverse
Rising traverse - 6C? - start hanging the bottom nose of the boulder.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691549349/in/dateposted-public/15m right again, and just before ‘English Voodoo’ there are three large boulders close to each other:
Big slab - 6C? - from the edge on the lip of the slab, make a hard slap to the crack, mantle then finish up the slab. This can also be climbed by stepping in from the right arete, which misses out the hard slap and mantle, but does the good slab climbing.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691278371/in/dateposted-public/Cave thing - 6C? - from sitting on the adjacent boulder, pull on using the jug at the top of the ramp feature, and a low crimp. Slap to the lip and top out via slopers.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691549519/in/dateposted-public/Steep into Mantle 7B - Sit start with a Gaston and undercut (Snappy rock) and slap to the lip. From here mantle up and finish direct. The mantle itself is probably better than going from the sit.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691696355/in/dateposted-public/Arete - 7A+ - Sit start and climb the sharp cut left arete. Can be climbed purely by sticking to the arete, or using toe hooks out right.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/52691700545/in/dateposted-public/