the shizzle > MoonBoard
Steve Maisch style 85% efforts on a moonboard
honroid:
Anyone else using a moonboard regularly. It has been slammed on here by some people in the past but there must be a few people using it.
I've just started using it as Steve Maisch suggests in various podcasts. He has a couple of ideas for using it for strength based around the idea that when lifting weights for strength you work in an 80% - 85% effort zone, doing 5 reps rather than working at 100% effort and at 1 rep.
He mentions that most V15 climbers will spend the majority of their time cruising around on V12 and V13 problems and working in the 80% - 85% zone.
Based on this idea then, he suggests doing a session of 5 problems three grades below your max, 5 problems at 2 Grades below max and then repeating the first 5 problems again.
Anyone out there trying this sort of thing?
abarro81:
I like volume bouldering sessions like this. Exercises at the strengthy end of ancap are probably going to give many similar effects (especially if comparing to doing the session you mentioned on something like the wave - where problems are longer - rather than the moonboard). Anderson hangs also somewhat similar (high volume at something very roughly like 80%). I personally find I tend to get better gains from this style of training than top-end strength work (e.g. max hangs, or 1-2 move problems), but that may partly be because I'm mostly interested in whether I feel strong for routes, which is usually more about feeling strong at 80% than 95%.
Main downside for me is that I find anything like this quite intense on old injuries - if anything is going to make overuse injuries get angry again I find it's this kind of stuff.
Bradders:
Doesn't have to be a Moonboard, most of my home board sessions are structured along these lines.
Currently I'm doing a general warm up of mobility, shoulder work and fingerboard, then a circuit of 5 easier problems that I should be able to do every time albeit not without some effort, then 4 or 5 problems I've done before but are hard and I'm at least as likely to fall off as complete them (best I've managed so far is doing 2/4 and dropping last moves of the other 2).
Then go into 2/3 projects albeit generally these are things where I'm at least stringing 2/3 moves together and I fall off on link goes.
And ideally finish by doing the original 5 problem circuit with a little added weight.
I'd like to think this gets a good level of stimulus at the right intensity, I.e. generally pretty intense whilst still completing a relatively high volume of moves. Personally I find I make much better gains with this approach than trying absolute limit moves for the session.
yetix:
In terms of training for me, climbing on a moonboard for the last 2 or 3 months has been most of what I've done, with a little off the wall stuff.
Im doing something close to this at the moment on a moonboard I guess and have been since just before the start of the year (before then I'd been just working through new benchmarks each session) .
I have 5 problems I warm up on progressively followed by 10 problems around the hardest grade to 1 below the hardest grade I've done on a moonboard which I try to repeat in 3 goes with 3 mins rest between goes. (I imagine if I was to project on the MB more now that my max grade would have gone up, and these would be more like 1-3 grades off my max, but I've tried to keep limit sessions to rock recently, so it's hard to tell!)
All the problems are things I'd previously worked on the MB (and some originally took a few to many sessions to actually do!) and the aim for me is to tick all the problems in less than 3 goes during the session. (I'm currently at 13/15 problems with 2 of the problems falling off the last move at least once, and in the first session I think I did 8 problems (5 warmups followed by 3 from the session itself))
If I complete the full circuit I'll likely move some of the easier blocs from the 10 into my warmup and then add some harder things onto the end that I've worked since. Or possibly add a few former projects into the circuit and have 3 goes on each of them.
At first I felt ruined for days after this session but I imagine that's because before almost every climbing session I did involved trying one or two things tops (inside or outside). Now I feel okay after 1 day of rest after doing this session, and I'm noticing that my session capacity for other sessions is also already noticeably higher, particularly in terms of how long I can execute powerful movement (surprise surprise).
Unsurprisingly, I'm still shit at basic body tension on small feet though, I'm considering doing something similar on more tensiony problems in a future training bloc as a result though.
Also my warm up sounds almost the exact same as nicks
jwi:
--- Quote from: honroid on February 08, 2023, 12:03:55 pm ---
I've just started using it as Steve Maisch suggests in various podcasts. He has a couple of ideas for using it for strength based around the idea that when lifting weights for strength you work in an 80% - 85% effort zone, doing 5 reps rather than working at 100% effort and at 1 rep.
He mentions that most V15 climbers will spend the majority of their time cruising around on V12 and V13 problems and working in the 80% - 85% zone.
--- End quote ---
I'm curious, how does he find the conversion between proportion of max effort and grade? According to some simple calculations that I just did based on various studies that relates max fingerstrength and grade I find that for someone whos fingers are taxed to 100% on individual moves on an 8C+ (i.e. "8C climbers"), their fingers would be taxed at around 80-85% at 8A-8A+.
What does he mean by effort?
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