[abarro81]

I can give you the Dave Mac advice if you'd like?
Quit your job.
Move.
Sell your kids.
Ditch your wife.

More seriously, it sounds like your warm up might leave you warmed up for lifting and doing pull-ups but not bouldering? 3 warm up problems isn't much, even after hangs/pickups. Being warm for hanging/lifting is not the same as being fired up for climbing in my experience. I'd be tempted to replace a bunch of pickups with more bouldering, but others may differ.
Perhaps more pertinently, if you can list your warmup like that then surely that's a sign it's too rigid and boring and you need to add variety!

[ali k]

I can give you the Dave Mac advice if you'd like?
Quit your job.
Move.
Sell your kids.
Ditch your wife.

so the best thing to do for recovery is stop working? 

Wasn’t this Maccy D’s advice in that 9/10 book? Sacrifice everything, leave your wife, quit work, sleep at the climbing wall, eat lard etc.

Copy cat 

[abarro81]

That'll teach me to skim read 

[DavidM]

Cool, thanks for replying. While everyone was giving their advice it struck me that without actually knowing what you were aiming for, the advice could be wildly off the mark!

Great question though. I know it's going slightly off topic with personal training / planning advice but i'm super grateful for everyones input with their wealth of experience. I think turning a basic home setup into something a little more substantial has proven invaluable with second child, being time poor and keeping psyched.

Abarro81 - thanks for the suggestion i'll experiment with that to.

[cheque]

There’s only one page in 9 out of 10 climbers where Dave Max talks about how personal circumstances affect performance. I think it was a later article or blogpost where he was more forceful in his advice about it. I remember Nibile in particular going nuts about it 

Edit:  Here it is it’s nowhere near as inflammatory as anyone seems to remember it. I think the whataboutery that followed on here is what’s led us all to recall it as “get divorced and camp under the crag or you’ll never be any good” 

[Nutty]

Few questions
...
-In your 4 week cycles do you place the overload week 3 and de-load on week 4.
-What exactly does a de load week look like.? Half the volume / Half the intensity for example?
...

You've different options with a 4 week cycle. You could move to a 3-1 schedule where you do 3 weeks on followed by a ~1/2 volume deload week. In terms of % of the cycles total training time per week, this would be something like 28%, 28%, 28%, 16%.

You could do a progressive schedule where you have an easier week (22% of cycles total training time), medium week (28%), hard week (35%) then a deload week (15%).

I've seen it suggested that a staggered schedule might work better if for older climbers, something like easy week (22%), hard week (35%), deload week (15%), medium week (28%). I might try this myself.

[ali k]

There’s only one page in 9 out of 10 climbers where Dave Max talks about how personal circumstances affect performance.

Edit:  Here it is it’s nowhere near as inflammatory as anyone seems to remember it.

Don't let the truth get in the way of a good UKB flaming!

[DavidM]

I've seen it suggested that a staggered schedule might work better if for older climbers, something like easy week (22%), hard week (35%), deload week (15%), medium week (28%). I might try this myself.

This is great Nutty thank you. Some basic maths on this correct me if i'm wrong in my calculations. Based on the last protocol for older people this equates to the following.

Monthly training time currently estimated is 30hrs.

Week 1 Easy 22% - 6.6 hours weekly volume
3 sessions @ 2.2hrs each

Week 2 Hard 35% - 10.5 hours weekly volume
4 sessions @ 2.6 hrs each

Week 3 De-load 16% - 4.5 hours weekly volume
2 sessions @ 2 hrs each

Week 4 Medium 28% - 8.4 hours weekly volume
3 sessions @ 2.8 hours

I guess within these week blocks i'm wondering how do you structure your sessions for strength, power endurance etc within a given week based on someone wanting to improve at bouldering? Im assuming week two is the overload week for upping the difficulty and weight on strength based exercises.

[DavidM]

After a few days experimenting thank you to Dexter and Sean Kenny I can report thanks to their recommendations on deep sleep no rest breathing techniques and stopping drinking water 2 hours before bed have made improvements in sleep quality and night waking. 

[seankenny]

Brilliant, glad it works for you. I have no idea why a body scan type meditation works or how the heck someone discovered it, but they are really good.

[slab_happy]

Belated thought -- have you tried ashwagandha? Good for sleep and reducing cortisol, some evidence of potential benefits for athletes:

https://examine.com/supplements/ashwagandha/