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Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023 (Read 1509 times)

Duma

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Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 22, 2023, 05:21:45 pm
M - 12 hr shift
T - 12 hr shift
W - 8 hr shift. Too tired to climb after.
T - TCA 2 hrs, bouldering. New white circuit (6C - 7A) so went round that. 31 problems, 19 flashes, 3 failures.
F - 8 hr shift. TCA 90 min circuits/bouldering. 2 x double (attempts) on 7a+, 10 min rest between. 1st go failed 5 moves from the end, 2nd rep 14 moves (out of 96) not that psyched so sacked it and worked a few problems instead.
S - 12 hr shift.
S - 12 hr shift. Elbow a bit sore, need to get back on the regular rehab.
71 kg

duncan

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#1 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 22, 2023, 05:40:57 pm
Thanks Duma,

M - Brean, with Purple Sue. Glorious day and perfect conditions after what felt like months of dreich. The Dawsonsí Mum and Dad were also there, showing us how to do it. Warmed-up then practised falls on Do You Get Vouchers With This and Brean Dream. They are not getting easier. Bolt-to-bolted Chepito, practising falls, then had a redpoint go. No cigar, partially due to the working go being more about the falls than the moves, and partially lacking basic power on the steeper bit. Counts as a try-hard, I was falling rather than grabbing the draws. Whilst I had a little left for another try, I decided not to overcook my wrist and quit whilst ahead.
T - Drove back to London, brisk walk for 7km.
W - Brisk walk for 14km.
T - Westway bouldering, short session to ĎV3í including one on the 40 degree board. Everything on this feels desperate. Practised actively squeezing holds rather than my usual style of trying to passive my way up everything. Short shuffle around the local streets when it was dark enough to spare my blushes.
F - Westway routes. Belay buddy couldnít make it so did 300m of easy on the autobelay. Felt pretty battered after but wrist survived. 
S - Shoulder, elbow, wrist rehab./conditioning: biceps curls, reverse curls, ring rows, pull-ups, side planks. Legs conditioning: single leg squats, frog squats, heel raises.
S - Shuffled for 20 minutes.

Falls: 51
Try-hards: 2

A good week, first time on rock for months, a bit clunky of course but felt like (soft) 7a might have been possible if Iíd focused more on working the moves and less on the fall practice. The weather has been amazing, so looking forward to seeing what others have been up to.

Seven weeks Ďtil Spain. It feels like Iím ready to start something closer to training after months and months of rehab. and conditioning.

Duma

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#2 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 22, 2023, 08:34:41 pm
...
S - 12 hr shift. Elbow a bit sore, need to get back on the regular rehab.
71 kg
Dragged myself out for a run when I got home, 5k, flat, pavement, 25:20

Felt better for it

Duma

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#3 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 22, 2023, 08:41:09 pm
M - Brean, with Purple Sue. Glorious day and perfect conditions after what felt like months of dreich.
Jealous! I did try to find a partner for Brean on Thurs but my options were either ill or had wonky priorities (a comp)(TBF he did win)

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#4 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 22, 2023, 09:14:48 pm
M: Flatirons - Satellite Boulders. Second session on Grundel City Boys V9/10 and managed all the moves and a few links. Pretty buggered still from Moe's and weighing in at 86kg so psyched to return in a month.

T: Walk round park with dog. 30 mins skipping plus 100 press-ups. New PR of 91 in a row

W: G1. Finger testing session, maxed out at 87.5lb added for total load of 276lb (I'm heavy at the moment), my highest ever tested! Kilter 50deg. 2 V4, 2 V5, 1 V6, 1 V7 before being kicked off by kids. Tension 40deg 1 V5, 1 V6. Weighted pull-ups 45lb X5, 80lb X2, 100lb X1.

T: Crunch, NY. Incline press, decline press, dips +45lb, leg press, ab wheel, front lever pulls, bicep curls, shoulder press

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#5 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 23, 2023, 09:21:28 am
11.8-10 average 163.8lbs (down 1.4lbs)

M. Waited for snow to stop. Did a home warm up. Burbage with dogs. Blue skies and sunshine. Poor conditions for it but re familiarised myself with blind date. Didnít get further than touching my left foot over the first lip. Johnny Brown turned up. Good natter. Interesting that heís done Blind Fig multiple times but not BD. -4.5 degrees driving home.

T Out with dogs to Stanage Popular. Tethering them together with a QuickDraw worked a treat. -1.5. Predicted blue skies but was cloudy. Also an on crag breeze so super cold. Started on Manchester Buttress HS but fingers numbed out so traversed off halfway up. Warmed a bit and did Gargoyle Buttress VS ok though there was snow and ice on the top out. Then did War Zone E1 6a after eventually working out where and how to do the problem start. Enjoyed this. Then had a couple of goes and a couple of tiring tactical retreats off Gullibles Travels E1 5b as fingers starting to numb out each time. Had a brief look at Jersey Boys but looked lichenous.

W. Sonia drove off with yesterdays climbing kit. Booked flight to Datca. Stanage Popular again armed with 1989 guide. Left thermos at home and glasses in car. Climbed with prescription sunnies on. Blue skies, bit warmer and no breeze. Couple of micro VSís at the extreme right to warm up then had another look at Gullibles Travels but didnít commit to last hard move and backed off again. Then did Grotto Wall HVS 4c and Heather Wall VS. Feeling a bit tired so called it a day at that.

T. Stanage Plantation. Warmer but still cold. Tried Symbiosis HVS 4c to warm up but the last moves looked hard with a life ending fall so escaped right. Then did the slabby Mitch Pitch E1 5c which Iíd not not done before. Mat in wrong place for top tricky move (escapable) but did it anyway. Worth doing. Then briefly checked out Plug 6C but looked far too hard so did the superb Between the Two HVS 5b instead which my logbook tells me Iíve done before. Then had a look at Millsoms Minion E1 which Iíve soloed in the past. Got half way up but didnít feel up to the committing moves into the scoop so reversed it which was tiring. Then did Paradise ArÍte VS, Millsoms Meander VS and Parasite HVS. Checked out Passover E15c but was crap and called it a day.

F. AM. Another beautiful day. Turned hot! Headed to DIY area. Had a go at Stumpy E1 5a but didnít fancy commiting to the top moves. Went up Tomcat Slab E1 which Id soloed in the past but not feeling it and reversed. Grimer and entourage showed up below. Beat a retreat.

S. Walk with Sonia and dogs from cut throat bridge and up round Stanage north.

S

Good to have a respite from the shit weather. Took a holiday from training but despite lowly grades it didnít feel like an easy week.

Duma

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#6 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 23, 2023, 09:56:58 am
sounds like a glorious week Simon!

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#7 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 23, 2023, 10:12:15 am
Tu - Moonboard. Mint connies. Finally did Hultqvist's No 12.

Su - went to Earl. Could see the Hitching Stone had snow on the top from the road so was spared a fruitless walk in. Looked around Earl and things were either snowy on the top or feeling a little damp in the humid air. Lichens were lively. Went to Baildon and played on JD's Problem until Sam arrived. Couldn't figure out how to get my heel in like Haydn does in his beta video. Sam arrived so got the pads under Renaissance which Pete H had done a couple of days before and said was flashable. His and Haydn's beta proved good so flashed that. Then looked further along the edge and found a clean block which wasn't described and figured out a couple of unrecorded 6s.

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#8 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 23, 2023, 11:12:45 am
M.
T.

W. Power hour on the board. Warm up and then 26 problems (started with the easiest and then working my way up). All first or second go.

T.

F. Another Power Hour. Warmed up and picked up where I left off on Tuesday - did 11 more problems but all pretty hard (for the board). Again all first or second go. Felt pretty strong.

S. Covid booster - wiped me out a bit.

S. Feeling better by the evening.


My old board problems are feeling pretty easy. Got 3 left to do which Iíve done before (need to crimp v. hard), 4 feet follow hands problems which Iím awful at and never ticked, and 11 ďprojectsĒ. I think a lot of these have been added and just not graded but look easy. Some are just hard and need some effort.

Would be nice to try and tick the board soon and either make it steeper or link up some problems maybe.

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#9 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 23, 2023, 05:15:56 pm
Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM ab wheel, thruster. Very short on time, hectic days.
Tue - board climbing. PB on current project, then in two halves. Terrible skin. Back work on bench, ab wheel.
Wed - AM as usual. PM garage session. Power clean up to 95%. Then volume, 2x15 EMOM  80%. One armers. Press.
Thu - TBDL from blocks 3x5 120 kg, good mornings 3x5 100 kg, bentover row 5x5 60 kg. Lattice edge front2, mid2, back3 in between sets.
Fri - thruster, high pulls, power curl, ab wheel, push ups circuit. Short on time, better than nothing.
Sat - AM as usual.
Sun - boxing bag. Ribs pain flared up again mysteriously.

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#10 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 24, 2023, 08:54:01 am
Re (re, re re ) joining the club to try and maintain some structure/psyche.

Coming off the back of ~6 months off so currently just trying to remind my body what to do.

Jan Goals
- 4x indoor: 3/4 so far
- 8x fingerboard: 5/8 so far


Monday
20mm edge - 6x 10 second hangs at bodyweight (78kg)
2 armed lock offs on big flatty -  15 seconds x2  at 180, 90, 45

Wednesday
BlocFit.
Currently working my way up the grades and just trying to do all the boulders in a circuit before moving on. This was my 3rd session back and I made it into the V5/6 circuit.

Aussiegav

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#11 Re: Power Club 680 16 - 22 Jan 2023
January 24, 2023, 08:52:15 pm
Cough almost gone. Best health Iíve had this year.
Power Club

Monday -

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
3x 95% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 17.25kg
3x 95% hangs open hand. BW plus 24kg


Tuesday

6x 4min boulders
6 purples at the depot. 3 sends, 3 fails.

Wednesday
Peloton 30min Stretching to treat sciatic pain

Thursday

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
3 95% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 17.25kg
3 95% hangs open hand. BW plus 24kg

Felt good

Friday


Saturday
Depot - Sheffield

Purple projecting session.


Sunday
30min peloton ride.

 

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