[Banana finger]

Hey All,
           The missus is keen to get her first 6c/7a on peak grit this year. She's really good at crimpy vert / slabs.
I'm really struggling to think of good crimpy vert things of this grade. Does anyone have any ideas?
Any help much appreciated! (although I'm gonna tell her it was my idea  )
Cheers!

[Fiend]

Completely off-topic there's some good uns in Yorkshire.

The Clattering Stones circuit is perfect for this!


Several problems around Bingley to Skipton:


Manson's Wall and Rudolph at Shipley.

Can't think of Peak Grit off the top of my head tho.

Edit! Peaches And Crust at Shining Cliff

https://youtu.be/TLYZ8GUJlr0?t=203
3:23
Absolutely earn the challenge on that one.

[Droyd]

Wharncliffe strikes me as a good option if you don't mind it not technically being grit and a fair bit of walking/getting lost between problems: depending on her height (as it's quite reachy), Sneaky Little Fingers (7A) is good. Pointy Block Problem (6C) is a good bit steeper but has some nice positive crimps. Snakes on a Plain (7A) is dead vert and I thought quite hard, but lovely vert ratting. Casu Marzu stand (6C) is a bit of a one-mover on crimps but very good. Wharnside Story (6C) is supposed to be good but I've yet to find it dry enough to do. Most/all of those have linked videos on UKC so you can see what you think.

Satin (7A) at Plantation probably fits the bill very nicely - only potential downsides are that it gets a bit high and requires a traverse off, but all fine with 2+ pads and a spot.

Youngster's Wall (7A) at Stanage near the Buckstone is good slabby/vert wall climbing on small holds/a mono jam. Beauty (6C) isn't too far away and is a lovely, if eliminate, slab (but needs careful padding as there's a crevasse at the bottom).

Sloper Traverse (7A) at Stanage Far Right is pretty much all crimps. The Cornflake (6C+) is on the steep side of vert but has some nice small holds.

Spinal Slab (7A) at Robin Hood's Stride is more of a slab than a wall with crimps but likely fits the bill. Dry Wit (7A) is similarly slabby rather than vert crimping but quite a lot higher.

Glom Onto (7A) at Rivelin Quarries is nice. Could be combined with Acid Reign (6C) at the main crag which has got to be one of the best upper sixes on grit - slabby quarried arete crimping.

Yorkshire Farmer (6C+) at Agden is slightly snappy slabby crimping if you're into esoterica.

Truffle Pig (6C-7A-who cares) is a slabby traverse with crap feet and decent hands and quite nice, grading/eliminate issues aside.

Bad Attitude (6C) at Burbage South is steep-ish positive crimping. It Hurts (6B) down on the valley boulders would be a good warm-up (as would Tiger (6B) although that's very steep and board-style).

Green Death Start (6C) at Millstone is classic quarried crimping. Technical Master (6B+) at Millstone is also worth doing if she's not done that. 

Art of Japan (6C) at Curbar is mega-classic and involves vert crimping. Last Light (6C) is nearby and similar, if not quite as good.

Holmfirth Cliff has quite a lot in the 6C-7A range too, although names escape me.

[Johnny Brown]

Some good ones from Droyd, as above Yorks is better for the crimpy vert on the coal measures stuff like Wharncliffe and Shipley.

I don't have a great memory for grades but a few more that spring to mind:

Crimpy Slab: Downhill Racer Direct

Crimpy vert: Andle Wall

Crimpy over-vert: Perfect Day direct (I find this desperate)

[tommytwotone]

JB beat me to it. If you want crimpy vert, all of Shipley Glen.

In that grade range, ticking Vim, Manson's Wall and Phil's Wall wouldn't be a bad day out.

[mark20]

Wharncliffe strikes me as a good option if you don't mind it not technically being grit and a fair bit of walking/getting lost between problems: depending on her height (as it's quite reachy), Sneaky Little Fingers (7A) is good. Pointy Block Problem (6C) is a good bit steeper but has some nice positive crimps. Snakes on a Plain (7A) is dead vert and I thought quite hard, but lovely vert ratting. Casu Marzu stand (6C) is a bit of a one-mover on crimps but very good. Wharnside Story (6C) is supposed to be good but I've yet to find it dry enough to do. Most/all of those have linked videos on UKC so you can see what you think.

Good shout. Also, the lovely slab of Sunset Crack (bizarrely named) on a lone boulder directly below Great Buttress. More like 6C than the given grade 7A

[andy_e]

Loving the geopedantry here. Although JB, Shipley is Rough Rock which is part of the Millstone Grit Group...

[slab_happy]

Hey All,
           The missus is keen to get her first 6c/7a on peak grit this year. She's really good at crimpy vert / slabs.
I'm really struggling to think of good crimpy vert things of this grade. Does anyone have any ideas?
Any help much appreciated! (although I'm gonna tell her it was my idea  )
Cheers!

Another Yorkshire one I'm afraid, but if she doesn't mind corners and contortions as well as some vicious crimps, Whisky Galore at Brimham is a beautiful technical number (and my sole tick of the grade).

[User deactivated.]

7a

Another Yorkshire one I'm afraid, but if she doesn't mind corners and contortions as well as some vicious crimps, Whisky Galore at Brimham is a beautiful technical number (and my sole tick of the grade).

I predict Will Hunt will make an appearance in this thread very soon.

[Dingdong]

Small is Beautiful at Burbage North

Honorary Caley at Stanage

[Duncan campbell]

This sort of thing is my favourite style, so will try and think of good ones.

Peaches and Crust + Satin are good suggestions.

Small is beautiful at Burbage North? Bit steeper than very but only just. Is a highball though.

Witness the gritness at Higgar.

Dry wit in a wet country at Robin hoods stride. Again, highball.

Hornblower at birchens is a nice crimpy 6C.

Spinal slap at RHS? I haven’t actually managed it but it’s a low, crimpy slab. Is desperate imo

Can’t think of many more off the top of my head. Shipley glen would be a great shout as would almscliff for pebble wall - pebble ratting at its finest!

[slab_happy]

7a

Another Yorkshire one I'm afraid, but if she doesn't mind corners and contortions as well as some vicious crimps, Whisky Galore at Brimham is a beautiful technical number (and my sole tick of the grade).

I predict Will Hunt will make an appearance in this thread very soon.

Oh, I've seen it's been downgraded by some. This is partly why I'm working on Pebble Mill Traverse, out of sheer spite.

[slab_happy]

Okay also because I love corners.

[T_B]

It would be useful to know how tall Bananafingers’ missus is? A couple of suggestions above are really reachy!

Tombstone at Froggatt is a good one.

[JamieG]

More slabby problems in this grade include.

Beauty (6C) at Stanage is a fantastic slab problem.
Trust (7A) at the fourth cloud at the roaches is also great. Start is a bit overhanging but the crux is all about getting onto the hanging slab hence the name. Needs a couple pads and a spot really.
Spring Slab (7A) at the Roaches.

[andy popp]

Is Cheshire too far afield?

[Banana finger]

Hey up, thanks for the great suggestions! I think andlestone wall might be the winner so far.
So she's 5 foot 10 so she's quite tall for a lady. I don't think she's keen on highballs which rules out 'dry wit' which is a shame since its otherwise perfect!

[Duncan campbell]

I thought of andle stone wall, but then I didn’t suggest it as it’s 7B not 7A… if she is a strong crimper it might not matter much though. Great problem!

[Eddies]

The Art of Japan - Curbar 6C***
Night of Lust - Ramshaw 6C+***
Razor Roof - Cratcliffe 6C***
Pink Wall Eliminate - Roaches Upper Tier 7A**
Witness The Gritness - Higgar Tor 7A**

[Fiend]

A few not remotely pedantic caveats

Acid Reign is an arete also highball and reachy.
Downhill Racer Direct is 7A+?
Andle Stone Wall 7B
Perfect Day Direct 7A++ and brutally powerful.
Vim is a 6A+ arete.
Phil's Wall 7A+
Tombstone with/without chips is entirely morpho and >7A+ unless you're tall
Razor Roof is a roof.

Many of the slabs mentioned are not that crimpy apart from Yorkshire Farmer, but they're all good/great.

Andy is right that the best vert/slabby crimpy 6C/7As on grit are actually in on sandstone in Cheshire!

[Wellsy]

Completely off-topic there's some good uns in Yorkshire.

The Clattering Stones circuit is perfect for this!


Several problems around Bingley to Skipton:


Manson's Wall and Rudolph at Shipley.

Can't think of Peak Grit off the top of my head tho.

Edit! Peaches And Crust at Shining Cliff

https://youtu.be/TLYZ8GUJlr0?t=203
3:23
Absolutely earn the challenge on that one.

Clattering Stones look great, I definitely fancy those

[Bonjoy]

Wharncliffe is deffo a good shout. As well as the ones mentioned (though I'd say Snakes on a Plain is more about pinching than crimping) I'd add Facetime Continuum stand start 7a, and Nazi Turtle 7a (does involve a techy kneebar). There vid of both on my Instagram.
Hot Ziggerty at Baslow.

[Bradders]

Small is Beautiful at Burbage North

Surely this is neither vert, nor crimpy! Been a while but isn't it slightly overhanging and yarding between decent holds?

almscliff for pebble wall - pebble ratting at its finest!

Climb it well and you don't even have to use the pebbles  kind of fits the bill being vert and techy at least.

Little Greenie at the Cliff too.

Few things at Caley might suit. Edge Wall, Creme Egg Eliminate, The Pinch, Rick's Rock (slight highball) and Forked Lightning Crack.

[spidermonkey09]

 At 5 10 I think she would absolutely piss dry wit and it is absolutely brilliant so well worth considering. The move is totally down to reach so will be obvious very quickly whether it's a goer or not. I'm 5 7 and had a complete nightmare on it but lankier companions pissed it.

[Duncan campbell]

Small is Beautiful at Burbage North

Surely this is neither vert, nor crimpy! Been a while but isn't it slightly overhanging and yarding between decent holds?

I remember it feeling crimpy but also been yonks since I did it… certainly the start is a crimpy pull to a thin break. Then maybe a little more yardy?

[Dingdong]

Small is Beautiful at Burbage North

Surely this is neither vert, nor crimpy! Been a while but isn't it slightly overhanging and yarding between decent holds?

almscliff for pebble wall - pebble ratting at its finest!

Climb it well and you don't even have to use the pebbles  kind of fits the bill being vert and techy at least.

Little Greenie at the Cliff too.

Few things at Caley might suit. Edge Wall, Creme Egg Eliminate, The Pinch, Rick's Rock (slight highball) and Forked Lightning Crack.

It’s ever so slightly overhanging but still a good wall climb and there’s definitely a few crimps on the first two moves, once you’ve done that though yes it’s basically moving between fairly decent breaks.

[BAndy]

Wharncliffe is deffo a good shout
... Facetime Continuum stand start 7a

I'd agree with this suggestion. Good vert crimping (not too high) with the sitter to try if it goes well.

[Scouse D]

Moontan Start at Rivelin is 7A+ but crimpy vert/slightly over vert

[Johnny Brown]

I thought that was about 7C.