[cofe]

the future is a higher left foothold. or fire. when will someone invent fire...?

[Johnny Brown]

That chickenhead is no use to man nor beast. Both your feet should be higher.

Perhaps half-decent boots would help?

[Bonjoy]

[Bubba]

Those bunnies have rhythm.

[Johnny Brown]

Bring back the kitten/ bees shit I say

[Fiend]

maybe this will help poor bonjoy deal with all the helpful beta...

[Bonjoy]

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzb

[Ru]

I've used the chickenhead every time I've done it. Nothing wrong with it.

[Rancid]

strawberries @ curbar. 2 years later and still no closer.....

[Sloper]

Strawberies is piss, method, both hands in lower crack right hand higner with thub down.  Outside edge of the right on the good hold and left foot straight onto the good hold on the 'break', stand up, grab crack other foot up jug top.  5b

[r-man]

That's an odd method for strawberries...or is it? hmm...I really can't remember anymore (is there a right facing layback method?), but anyway I think it's one of those problems where once you've figured it out it feels easy, but until then it feels depserate. To illustrate my point, I saw a short Italian guy do Play Hard, with ease (and without the cheating crack) and then fall of Strawberries. He got it soon after, but still...

-what was that guys name anyway? I met him a few times last winter - think he was living in Sheffield for a few months.

[dave]

Strawberies is piss, method, both hands in lower crack right hand higner with thub down.  Outside edge of the right on the good hold and left foot straight onto the good hold on the 'break', stand up, grab crack other foot up jug top.  5b

yeah, nice one. that clearly ties in with the fact that everyone i've ever seen who's limit is 6a consistently failing on it then. You're not after a medal are you soldier?

[fatneck]

The last six or seven feet of the main traverse on Pisa wall at Pex....
Have been trying it independantly as a problem for about 12 months now, still no joy.

Can't imagine what it will feel like, pumped out of my mind after doing the rest of the traverse

Also watching AndyF do the full traverse, three times (there and back and there) non stop is somewhat depressing  :cry:

[Paz]

Toit de Cul de Chien.  For me needs a funny mix of still being strong on the pocket early on, and having your hip warmed up/stretched enough to cam the heel in properly.  And it being dry helps.

[Andy F]

My ultimate nemesis is Breakaway At Pex. Being a shortie I can't reach the gaston side pull for your left hand without getting my feet up on some crap smears. When I do get it I then find I cant move my feet to jump for the finishing jug.  :x  with knobs and bells on.

See this photo for details http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=7459

[Jim]

Strawberies is piss, method, both hands in lower crack right hand higner with thub down.  Outside edge of the right on the good hold and left foot straight onto the good hold on the 'break', stand up, grab crack other foot up jug top.  5b

Correct sequence but its top end 6a in my book. can feel realy easy some times tho granted

that clearly ties in with the fact that everyone i've ever seen who's limit is 6a consistently failing on it then.

Yeah, it was painfull watching you on it  

[Kim]

A l'impossible at roche aux sabots. been on it every trip (except the last, but i had bigger numbers on my mind then :roll: ) an i'm damned if i can do the last move or two (i can't).

next time......

[Dutch Master Killa]

I think after my recent trip to font i can basically claim font as my nemesis.  I think in particular charcuterie sticks out as the main culprit   Peak nemesis is probably deliverance with a bit of basher's problem at the snor thrown in for good measure!

[dave]

that clearly ties in with the fact that everyone i've ever seen who's limit is 6a consistently failing on it then.

Yeah, it was painfull watching you on it  

yeah whatever, its on my warmup circuit muthafucka

basher's problem at the snor

don't talk to me about that probem - what fucking gives there? did they print the 6 the wrong way up? question

[Pantontino]

Chocolate Wall at Pill Box Wall on the Marine Drive has been kicking my arse for a few years. Trouble is, I keep getting slightly higher, and the move to latch the shield is just pure climbing joy; I just can't leave it alone, it's too good to give up on.

Mind you, haven't tried it this winter with my new lightweight, almost beer-gutless frame.

It'll probably turn out to be piss. (I wish)

(NB Luckily I've seen some reet famous people get spanked on it too!)

[dobbin]

basher's problem at the snor

don't talk to me about that probem - what fucking gives there? did they print the 6 the wrong way up? question

Its a path man! All you need is strong fingers and a high pain threshold. Ask Polish Dave - he camps on the crimp at night.

[Dutch Master Killa]

I reckon Basher's has gotta be harder than B6 though.  Scouse is the only person I know who's done it and he used a well gay super beef thuggery way of doin it!  I can do every move on it in isolation I just can't link it all together- any tips? :?

[a dense loner]

yeah, stop being mates wi scouse

[dobbin]

I thought you lot were talking v6 - its fair for v6, not B6 (which would be v5). I have switched to font grades recently, but cannot convert below 7a. What does that mean this is then?

Scouse seems allright?  :wink:

[a dense loner]

it means you only just know what you're talking about. bashers is 7a :D