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Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023 (Read 2146 times)

Duma

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Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 08, 2023, 07:48:25 pm
M - am sleep off nights. TCA 1 hr bouldering, blacks and whites (high 6's to low 7's). Did 6 out of 7 attempted (only one go on the one I didn't do). Elbow seemed to hold up.
T - slept till lunchtime, doh! UCR, 90 min, Max hangs 7 x 7s @ +12kg (82kg) two armed on bm2k small crimps: disappointing. Then circuits, 2 min on 2 min off x 6 : 6c+, 7a+, 7a+ (fell, last 15s on 6c+), 6c+, 7a+, 7a+ (fell, last 15s on 6c+). Discovered I still have nik at work's lovely minimalist timer on my phone so used that.
Elbow a bit worse after, maybe the pull ups I did warming up :'-(
W - zero sleep. FML. Elbow def worse. Work, got 15 min dozing at lunch. Eve run, 5k, flat, pavement, 24:32. Surprising as took it easy and no no sleep. Bit of elbow rehab.
T - 6 hrs sleep. Feel a bit more human. Elbow rehab routine, including foot on fingerboard routine. Feels very crunchy during even kneeling press ups.
F -  Elbow rehab routine. TCA bouldering 90 min.. Elbow slightly improved so risked harder boulders, only one slightly steep one though. 8 blues, 1 black, 1 white.
S - run, 5k, flat, pavement, 24:21. Again surprised at decent time.
S - TCA bouldering 90 mins, 2 blues, 1 black, lots of tries on 2 more blues. Elbow rehab after.
70 kg
Bit pissed off by setting my elbow back on Tuesday by what feels like about a month, odd that just a few pull ups seemed to be the trigger (chin ups seem fine), and especially frustrating as I'd just got to a point where I could boulder again. On the up side I still seem to be able to get on with less steep problems, so will go back to those and circuits for a while.

mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 08, 2023, 08:54:52 pm
Bit pissed off by setting my elbow back on Tuesday by what feels like about a month, odd that just a few pull ups seemed to be the trigger (chin ups seem fine),

Did you pull high into them, elbow angle <90*? In my experience elbow tendons really don't like compression under load.

Duma

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#2 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 08, 2023, 09:00:41 pm
I did, but it's not a tendon injury according to the physio. (Sprained ligaments of joint capsule iirc). I suspect there's some scar tissue in there that was irritated by loading a different position.

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#3 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 08, 2023, 10:50:40 pm
M: Grim journey home from Europe. 0830 flight from CDG to FRA. Seven hour delay to flight from Frankfurt (plus a 45 mins wait for a gate in Denver) meant we didn't get to bed until midnight. Stayed up to lessen jetlag so was a bit of a zombie towards the end!

T: G1. 20mm HC up to +70lb. Kilter 45deg. 2 V4, 1 V5, 5 V6. V5 slab boulder to finish. Weighted pull-ups 45lb X5. Ring muscle-ups X1 *3. Ring muscle-up +20lb felt hard but OK, psyched my wrists can handle them again

W: 30 mins skipping. G1. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *5. Bench press 135lb max reps. Felt pretty off due to jet lag so bailed

T: G1. 20mm HC up to +70lb. Kilter 45deg. 2 V4, 1 V5, 3 V6, 1 V7. 50deg 1 V5, 2 V6. Weighted pull-ups 44lb X5, 69lb X3, 89lb X2.

F: 20 mins skipping, new PR of 23 jumps unbroken

S: Horsetooth Reservoir. Went to Inlet Bay first to try Gutter Shark. Took a while to work out moves and get courage to top over drop-off landing but sent second go from bottom. Moved onto Rotary Park to look at Moon Arete, classic Ben Moon V9 (lots of people now say V10). Basically a three move power / strength arete. Managed the first move pretty easily but the second move was very hard. Made some good progress before giving up and doing Right Eliminator V4 instead. Finished with a play on Mental Block but was flagging and in need of food


S: 100 press-ups. 30 mins skipping. New PR of 66 jumps unroken. First double under. First linked double under as double single single double!

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#4 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 08, 2023, 11:49:47 pm
Thanks Duma. Sorry to hear about elbow woe

11.10-12 average 165.2lbs

M. PM Stanage soloing. Handful of routes. Backed off Saliva strenuously a couple of times before doing it as was traversing at too low a level. Think I’ve made the same mistake before. Did a couple of new to me E1’s - Bobsnob and Lucy’s Delight.

T Foundry routes with Keith, Steve and joined by Tony Coutts! from the land down under. Can’t remember the last time I led a route indoors. 9 tie ins on the main wall getting pumped and then a bit of messing about on auto belay in the Furnace at the end.

W Furnace - some easy active rest laps.

T Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge. FC,HC and Drag3x 1pull up then 10, 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x1pull up then 9, 7and 10 sec hang.+17.5kg FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 7,7 and 8? +22.5kg 3x1 pull-up (dinner)then FC 3 and then failed next go to even hang so stopped

F PM Stanage looked a bit damp from road and clouds ominous. Drove on to the Tor. Drippy. Joined by Nick S. Still failing on kneebar release. Worked starting section but struggling on second move and foot cross to get kneebar. All very demoralising. So much for doing lots of links.

S PM Sytems board. Warm up. No finger strength for crimp benchmark. Didn’t try throw variations. Completed a  20/10 set at 2 sec per move and got to move 100(out of 120) on second set. Decent. Eve Attempted front levers. 30kg DB bent over rows 3 sets of 10. 15kgR/10kgL DB military press 3 sets of 5. 105kg + bar Deadlifts set of 5 then failed on second lift of next set.

S

Fed up with the weather. Cut down on carbs. No booze. List of strength deficiencies grows longer. Think I’m doing the right sort of things to get in shape for the Oak but still a looong way from where I need to be. Forecast is shit.

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#5 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 09:59:02 am

T Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge. FC,HC and Drag3x 1pull up then 10, 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x1pull up then 9, 7and 10 sec hang.+17.5kg FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 7,7 and 8? +22.5kg 3x1 pull-up (dinner)then FC 3 and then failed next go to even hang so stopped


If I understand this correctly, these sound quite interesting. You do a pull up and then hang for 10 secs?
What sort of % of max hang weight is this at? I can't imagine getting anywhere near 100% max hang if I'm doing a pullup too (should I be?!), so perhaps some good gains to be had here for me

Will Hunt

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#6 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 10:06:21 am
I went for a 40 minute jog on Friday in an attempt to stave off insanity. Conversational pace. Slightly overestimated how far I could go before knee imploded (my knee on the side I broke my leg hates running) so had to walk the last 10 mins or so to avoid injury.

Little else to report. Got some naproxen from the docs (who thinks pain in ribs is inflamed cartilage) which has helped but I still can't climb.

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#7 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 10:16:27 am
My PC entries have been sporadic lately due to various ongoing illnesses (nothing serious, usual coughs and colds and a stomach bug) which have plagued my family since November. Been generally sticking to 2 board sessions a week when feeling well enough, but now my right bicep/elbow is playing up. Its making me nervous because it seems to be exactly the same position as the bicep tear that happened on my left arm. Will be avoiding undercuts and other bicep moves for a while. Might try sticking to fingerboarding and some rehab exercises to see how it responds.

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#8 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 10:58:56 am
Little else to report. Got some naproxen from the docs (who thinks pain in ribs is inflamed cartilage) which has helped but I still can't climb.

I suffered costochondritis around 4 or 5 years ago, but for me the pain was the located at the sternum, which I think is typical. As for soft tissue injuries like golfers elbow, rest helped, but then the pain returned as soon as I started doing anything again.

After a deep dive on the internet, I started doing an exercise/stretch called the German hang and this cleared it up for good. Since your pain isn't located at the sternum, German hangs might not help, but the point is that strengthening/mobilising the area could help. On the basis that your pain is at the side, I'd consider trying to gradually load some exercises that work the serratus and intercostal muscles. Perhaps scapular push ups progressing to scapular dips?

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#9 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 11:46:38 am
LTG: get back to landing on my spannered leg, climb Font 7a again

M: Hour's swim en famille
T: LSD evening, kneehab and some pottering on V3 and below stuff, reversing back down carefully
W: Nowt
T: LSD session again, quite busy to didn't do loads but a good run out
F: Nowt
S: Last minute pass in afternoon to headed to LSD and did good relaxed session. Ticked a V4 that was lox crux / escapable.
S: Nowt

Road to recovery. Still can't imagine landing on my left knee. Physio session on Weds to check in.

Spoke to a fellow knee-sufferer on Saturday who recommended the "Knees Over Toes Guy" on YouTube. Some interesting stuff to check out there.


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#10 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 11:49:09 am
2 weeks

M - Had another go at shunting La Bombi. If anything it felt even harder than the days before. Limping quite badly still on L ankle and this prob contributed to the feet feeling completely shit.
T - Put the clips in Voladerum, on the basis that it looked a lot like my cup of tea (on a good day) decent holds, big moves, etc. But on the way up everything felt more desperate that I was expecting, and the possibility of getting near to climbing it properly seemed like quite a distant prospect.
W - Had a little session on Voladerum. Skipped the initial mini roof section to concentrate on going up from the first juggy bit. I think my 2019 self would've made quite fast progress, but feeling heavy and with issues using injured foot, every move ended up being a bit throw vs a lock and reach. And by taking that approach, getting the wrong bit of the next hold, readjusting, etc, my skin started to get v trashed v quick. Started thinking more about what I need to do to get up this (and some of its similar neighbours) on a return trip, and I don't think it would be terribly difficult to achieve.
T - Rest, belaying at the Lab
F - Cann Verdures - Picked a innocuous looking 6b+ to get going with, and ended up having a tremendous, ultimately unsuccessful epic on it.
S - Ditto, including lots of falls. Am slightly blaming this on inability to stand up properly on knackered ankle, but I think there was also a bit of general physical / mental exhaustion creeping in, and living in a tent too long syndrome.
S - Can Torxa. After a little warm up, decided to try the starred 6a+ corner that Sam had been raving about. Started up it facing one direction, and at the third bolt (before clipping it) decided tom rearrange myself. Grabbed a (well-chalked) undercut flake, and as I was turning around this snapped and I went plummeting downwards. Poor Ted ended up being flung into the air and I luckily just stopped before hitting the ground. Went back up to finish it off, but my head wasn't entirely in the right place.

M - Skin wrecked. Belayed at the Lab.
T - Ditto. Managed to get Spanish guy to get the clips out of Voladerum. Started drive home around 6pm.
W - Arrived home just before lunchtime. Felt fine until I sat down on the sofa, then hit by waves of exhaustion. Vaguely managed 30mins of yoga.
T - Went to wall in the evening. Lots of holes in skin, inc chunk out of the top of one of them caused by the snapping flake. Felt unexpectedly strong.
F - Weighed in at 101ish kg, with is about 6kg less than when I left. Went for a soggy walk in the rain.
S - Wall. Worked on a couple of hard prow problems and tried some other stuff with the kids. Will resume proper training when my skin is on the mend. Then did some weighted pull-ups, assisted 1 armers, locks, curls, etc later in the afternoon.
S - 40 min run, some press weights, press-ups etc. Was going to do yoga but legs felt a bit weird after first proper run in months.

Margalef trip was brilliant. I know of knew I wasn't going to climb anything particularly noteworthy. In fact, by being almost completely unprepared and climbing like a punter, I managed to get way more volume done that expected by having to try almost everything multiple times to get to the top (or not) and / or climbing up and down / in circles, etc trying to find some decent holds. Also, injuring my ankle didn't help. Extremely syked to return to the Lab for a selection of stuff inc Skolou, Voladerum, Tsunami, Miguel e Casero, etc and beyond. Have a fairly good idea of what's required, and I don't think it's rocket science. 6ish kg weight loss is a nice bonus too, although a chunk of that is prob down to not using creatine for a few weeks.

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#11 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 11:51:57 am
Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM light weights.
Tue - AM as usual. PM garage session.
Wed - board climbing. Did current project in two halves. Must sort right wrist out.
Thu - AM as usual. PM ab wheel, weights.
Fri - wheel and thruster. Heavy.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - TBDL from blocks 120 kg 10x5. Farmer's static holds 1' AMRAP. Heavy.


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#12 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 05:20:10 pm
Monsoon club:

M - Legs (frog squat, heel lower-raises, single leg squat etc.). Westway, forgot my harness so bouldering up to V3 (slabs) or V1 (steep).
T -  Shoulder and wrist conditioning: side planks, dumbell rows, reverse biceps curls etc.
W -  Fingerboard. Pick-ups: 18mm edge, up to 23kg x 10s (front two, drag and crimp, both hands). Hangs: 30mm edge, front three, 2-3 seconds at a time.
T - Westway, remembered harness, talked to people (see aims for 2023) so lead routes for a change 12 x up to 6b. Walked 10km.
F - Legs as above. Walked 10km.
S - Fingerboard as above. Shoulder and wrist conditioning as above.
S - Legs as above, except the single-leg squats were not working today. Walked 10km.

Dreich weather, long nights, wrist is improving but at glacial speed. Keep turning up.

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#13 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 05:23:29 pm
Little else to report. Got some naproxen from the docs (who thinks pain in ribs is inflamed cartilage) which has helped but I still can't climb.

I suffered costochondritis around 4 or 5 years ago, but for me the pain was the located at the sternum, which I think is typical. As for soft tissue injuries like golfers elbow, rest helped, but then the pain returned as soon as I started doing anything again.

After a deep dive on the internet, I started doing an exercise/stretch called the German hang and this cleared it up for good. Since your pain isn't located at the sternum, German hangs might not help, but the point is that strengthening/mobilising the area could help. On the basis that your pain is at the side, I'd consider trying to gradually load some exercises that work the serratus and intercostal muscles. Perhaps scapular push ups progressing to scapular dips?

Thanks for the advice, Liam. I'll give that a try. FWIW the pain is located between the ribs just below my left pectoral. So presumably intercostal muscle. Pain is up and down - was worse at points yesterday, but very light today.

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#14 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 09, 2023, 05:29:30 pm
I'm losing track of what's PC and what's Sharkathon these days - Pretty sure I need a solid rest day  :yawn:

M: Surfing @ Cayton - Mint! 2-4ft, pretty clean if a little fresh... I caught a good few but my pop-ups still suck - gotta get back on with the pop-up training!
T: 1hr wander around Pickering moors with the mother of all hangovers (that's drinking done for 2023)! Found a disused quarry, was so chossy even Gary Gibson wouldn't have bolted it!
W: Stabilizer conditioning and Strength Intervals on the 25-degree Moonboard - 3 sets of 3 reps up to 6B (6B my arse!)... Hard!
T: 1.5hrs bouldering @ The Hangar with my daughter - Purples and Reds.
F: Dog Walking, Pressups, Planks and Stabilizer Conditioning.
S: Dog Walking, Pullups, Levers (shit levers - get into them but that's it) and Leg raises...
S: 5-mile walk in the Peak. Hangar: Linked boulders 2 x 12 move problems repeated 4 times each with 2 mins rest between reps and 5 minutes between sets. 1hr bouldering with mates. Awesome Walls: Density Hangs - 30s @ 70% of max, Aerocap -  4 routes up to F6b, repeated twice with 10 mins between sets on auto-belays. A few easy leads to cool down (I could hardly get up F6a at the end of the session...)

And that's a supposed rest week - Ha!!! SCREW YOU LLLEEETTTUUUCCCEEE!!!!  :lol:

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#15 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 10, 2023, 09:20:28 pm

T Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge. FC,HC and Drag3x 1pull up then 10, 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x1pull up then 9, 7and 10 sec hang.+17.5kg FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 7,7 and 8? +22.5kg 3x1 pull-up (dinner)then FC 3 and then failed next go to even hang so stopped


If I understand this correctly, these sound quite interesting. You do a pull up and then hang for 10 secs?
What sort of % of max hang weight is this at? I can't imagine getting anywhere near 100% max hang if I'm doing a pullup too (should I be?!), so perhaps some good gains to be had here for me

Hi Mark

I do the pull up then have a rest then do the hang so it’s two separate things. I want to train deadhangs and do some fingertip pull ups so thought this would be a way of combining the two in the same session.

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#16 Re: Power Club 678 02 - 08 Jan 2023
January 11, 2023, 09:58:12 am
Power Coughing Club

Monday -

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
3 85% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 7.5kg
3 85% hangs open hand. BW plus 12.7kg


Tuesday

6x 4min boulders
6 purples at the depot. 2 flashes, one 2nd go 3 fails. Good session

Wednesday
Rest day

Thursday

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
3 85% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 7.5kg
3 85% hangs open hand. BW plus 12.7kg

Felt tired low energy

Friday
Rest

Saturday

Went to the depot in the morning.
Did hip & hamstring mobility work + 9 problems and campus pulls to warm up.
7 problems. 4 minutes working block with 4 minutes rest. Did two of the seven. Still coughing a bit and getting tired after problems.


Sunday
20min peloton ride. Was knackered at the end of it.
Stretched.

 

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