[teestub]

I had this as a goal last year as well but ideally:

- Reduce volume under 7B/+

Interesting first goal, I would have thought that a healthy grade pyramid for the year would be a prerequisite to your following goals?

[Dingdong]

I had this as a goal last year as well but ideally:

- Reduce volume under 7B/+

Interesting first goal, I would have thought that a healthy grade pyramid for the year would be a prerequisite to your following goals?

My pyramid is already fairly healthy
- 92 7A
- 40 7A+
- 23 7B
- 7 7B+

Problem is if I spend sessions on lower grade volume I expend energy and skin I could put into working projects so it’s a bit of a trade off

[Bradders]

I had this as a goal last year as well but ideally:

- Reduce volume under 7B/+

Interesting first goal, I would have thought that a healthy grade pyramid for the year would be a prerequisite to your following goals?

My pyramid is already fairly healthy
- 92 7A
- 40 7A+
- 23 7B
- 7 7B+

Problem is if I spend sessions on lower grade volume I expend energy and skin I could put into working projects so it’s a bit of a trade off

I have a couple of similar goals

- >50 7B and up
- >15 7C and up

I know those look like number chasing, but the idea behind them was more around time management, and trying to encourage myself to spend more time in that 80-90% zone.

All that said, I'm a big fan of Jesse Firestone (what a name!). Couple of interesting things he's posted recently which are related and have got me thinking:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgR8PrmLoyn/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chcm7G9LSlX/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ConCghKJDA3/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[SA Chris]

I'm a big fan of Jesse Firestone (what a name!)

You wouldn't get tyred of it!

[Dingdong]

I had this as a goal last year as well but ideally:

- Reduce volume under 7B/+

Interesting first goal, I would have thought that a healthy grade pyramid for the year would be a prerequisite to your following goals?

My pyramid is already fairly healthy
- 92 7A
- 40 7A+
- 23 7B
- 7 7B+

Problem is if I spend sessions on lower grade volume I expend energy and skin I could put into working projects so it’s a bit of a trade off

I have a couple of similar goals

- >50 7B and up
- >15 7C and up

I know those look like number chasing, but the idea behind them was more around time management, and trying to encourage myself to spend more time in that 80-90% zone.

All that said, I'm a big fan of Jesse Firestone (what a name!). Couple of interesting things he's posted recently which are related and have got me thinking:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgR8PrmLoyn/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chcm7G9LSlX/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ConCghKJDA3/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I’ve not read those before but that’s exactly the conclusion I came to and started practicing a while back, using a project at limit as a goal and building up through grades in a similar style which basically builds your pyramid naturally whilst helping you home into the style and learning the intricacies.

[Duma]

Bit late (and cheating cos I've ticked one) but a few bits:

Abroad: couple of trips this year, one just finished.
Spain/Greece:
Climb well, have fun, onsights and quick ticks.

UK places: I've got more weekends free this year so want to make the most of it.
North Wales at least once - been ages
Peak at least twice - as above, but have mates to meet up with too.
Portland twice - great couple of weekends last year and really keen to get down again.
Ansteys - best sport on the south coast, I don't go nearly often enough.
Trewortha Tor: went once and it rained, but this genuinely looked better than Dartmoor, need to go back in the dry
Uphill Quarry - nothing exciting, but I've never been, which is ridiculous as a Bristol based climber.
Torbryan - as above, never been.
Spacehunter at least twice - best wall in Cheddar and I still haven't ticked anything on it.
Sunset Buttress - see above...

Climbs:
Bristol Weed - had a really good initial session on this last September and then injured my elbow.
Return of the Gunfighter - just amazing quality, need to get back up there
Just Revenge - the most realistic of my Ansteys wishlist
Tennessee - so good! First tried over 20 years ago so would be nice to finish
Ultimate Warrior - have had a pic of this on background rotation for aaaages.

Number chasing:
7c first go - did this in Chulilla a couple of weeks ago, see YYFY thread
3 8's - got to keep up standards
7C again - it's been a while (2019??)
Finish the Cheddar 7a's - 11 to go

[monkoffunk]

Tennessee is brilliant! Can’t wait to get back on that one.

[AJM]

Tennessee is brilliant! Can’t wait to get back on that one.

Very keen to get on that too

[Duma]

We'll be queuing up at this rate! You know how hard it is to get connies on it right? And the tide window?

[monkoffunk]

We'll be queuing up at this rate! You know how hard it is to get connies on it right? And the tide window?

Combination of enough wind to dry it without being too much to soak it in spray, some sun, but not too hot and hopefully all that when its not underwater. Something like that.

[Duma]

you forgot minimal swell

[SA Chris]

Nice brisk easterly / south easterly will get dry air blowing onto it, flatten any swell and mean minimal spray. Draw a Venn Diagram

[AJM]

We'll be queuing up at this rate! You know how hard it is to get connies on it right? And the tide window?

Well, I need at least one other person who wants to go down there to hold the rope, and once I discount the people who’ve already done it and the people who wouldn’t have anything of interest to do down there, I get left with the sort of pool of potential partners which could do with expanding!

For me I think the crux (as on most routes these days!) would be arranging the afternoon passes with the family 

[Wood FT]

Torbryan - as above, never been.

Oh you lucky bastard

[andy moles]

Torbryan - as above, never been.

Oh you lucky bastard

Say whuuut. I'm exactly the sort of person who likes to look down my nose at shit bits of limestone, but Torbryan is a good little crag!

[Duma]

Maybe he means I'm lucky to still have such a great experience to come? :-D

[csl]

That was my guess too Duma - I’ve only been once but thought the quality was amazing for such a tiny slice of rock.

[Wood FT]

Maybe he means I'm lucky to still have such a great experience to come? :-D

Exactly, Torbyran is possibly my favourite crag.

[Yossarian]

I couldn’t believe Torbryan when I got there. It was like a Bond villain who had decided he wanted to start climbing had ordered a little chunk of Spain to be packed up and shipped to Devon…

[andy moles]

Maybe he means I'm lucky to still have such a great experience to come? :-D

Exactly, Torbyran is possibly my favourite crag.

Ah sorry total misinterpretation, I thought you meant you were sick of it!

[Duma]

Excellent weekend ticked 2 boxes:

Abroad: couple of trips this year, one just finished.
Spain/Greece:
Climb well, have fun, onsights and quick ticks.

UK places: I've got more weekends free this year so want to make the most of it.
North Wales at least once - been ages
Peak at least twice - as above, but have mates to meet up with too.
Portland twice - fortnight ago had a couple of days at the cuttings, and this Easter weekend has been excellent fun on the (far superior) West coast.
Ansteys - best sport on the south coast, I don't go nearly often enough.
Trewortha Tor: went once and it rained, but this genuinely looked better than Dartmoor, need to go back in the dry
Uphill Quarry - nothing exciting, but I've never been, which is ridiculous as a Bristol based climber.
Torbryan - as above, never been.
Spacehunter at least twice - best wall in Cheddar and I still haven't ticked anything on it.
Sunset Buttress - see above...

Climbs:
Bristol Weed - had a really good initial session on this last September and then injured my elbow.
Return of the Gunfighter - just amazing quality, need to get back up there
Just Revenge - the most realistic of my Ansteys wishlist
Tennessee - YYFY! Good session yesterday in decent conditions (relatively), got past the pocket but couldn't get heel up for the top crux. Today was much worse connies but psyche prevailed and both me and Remus got it done. Got to be one of the best at the grade in the country, despite the faff with tides and Smeg.
Ultimate Warrior - have had a pic of this on background rotation for aaaages.

Number chasing:
7c first go - did this in Chulilla a couple of weeks ago, see YYFY thread
3 8's - got to keep up standards
7C again - it's been a while (2019??)
Finish the Cheddar 7a's - 11 to go.

[ali k]

Nice one Duma

[36chambers]

Just realised I never posted mine.

My theme for this year is longevity.
- finger health over everything. I've got finger woes that have been developing over the past few years and I would rather not make them any worse. So prioritise mobility and health over everything else
- work towards being able to do a pain free one arm pull up/deep lock off
- work towards being able to do a pain free handstand. Currently hurts my wrists just to do regular push ups... 

- 5 off the never ending “why have you not done these yet?” list 
- 5 climbing trips (weekends away, holidays)
- 5 training room PBs
- 5 new UK crags
- 5 FA’s (including shitty link ups)
- 5 percent increase on my powerlifts (squat, bench, and deadlifts)
- 5 things related to mobility to fit into this stupid list format

[duncan]

Six months review. It should be possible to nudge some of the oranges in the right direction. Most of the reds involve committing to longer trips and I'm going to have to make choices on which are the priority.

1. Try hard. Fall off a trad. route, or entertain onlookers [© reeve, an excellent measure]. Fall off sport routes lots of times.
Almost green. Trying hard quite often, taken a good number of sport falls, >150 practice falls. This is a real change from recent years. Have not had a proper trad. battle yet although my rapid reversal of the crux of Robert Brown yesterday was probably quite entertaining for the onlooker.

2. Put some time into a good 7b/+.  Possibles include, in roughly increasing order of unlikelihood, Living Dead, Empire..., Road Rage, Paradise Lost, Cave Route RH.
Five sessions on La Muerte del Sponsor and one and a half on The Jimi Hendrix Experience. Got very close on the former. Enjoying the process, to be continued.

3. Get on a classic seacliff E5. 
Not been to a sea cliff since February and not really gone for it on trad.

4. Rematch with Supersonic.
Not yet, but climbed at High Tor after a six year break and enjoyed myself so putting in the mental preparation

5. Climb at four from: Scottish Highlands, Islands, Fairhead, Lundy, Llŷn, and the north Cornwall coast.
Fair Head, which was so good it probably counts as two. A spell of unanticipated single parenting in April-May scuppered a trip to Scotland. Hopefully will get to one or two of these places in September-October.

6. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free.
Nothing and no concrete plans due to usual partner being occupied and family commitments this summer. If anyone is free in September-October and interested in this kind of thing get in touch

7. Climb in places new to me, including somewhere in the excellent Northern Rock guidebook. Gordale or Malham would be great (not completely new but I’ve only been once, in the previous century, for the trad. of course).
I’ve done the complete opposite and climbed at the highly familiar Uphill, Brean Down, Portland, Pembroke, Siurana, and Fair Head!

8. Climb with some new people. New indoor partners would be good too, if anyone goes to the Westway or Castle get in touch.
Enjoyed filling out my indoor and outdoor dance card

[RobK]

Good idea with the halfway review.

At least 3 of the following existing projects. These range from having had a brief play, to having had 4-5 sessions on and repeatedly falling at the chains. *Cough* Biological *Cough*.
Canyonlands, Devil's Gorge
Nanabozho, Llanddulas
Broken Dreams, Dinbren
Bad Bad Boy, LPT
Biological Need, Kinsey
Herbie, Malham
One down (Broken Dreams), one quite close (Canyonlands). Haven't been back on any of the others yet.

At least 1 of the harder routes I've had my eye on. This list may evolve if other stuff takes my eye.
Hades, Devil's Gorge
Statement of Youth, LPT
Insomnia, Dinbren
Insomnia is essentially a harder finish of Broken Dreans, so I now have the start dialed and have had a quick play on the upper moves. Doesn't seem totally infeasible.

Beat last year's record of 5 trad routes.
11! Thanks to a couple of Pembroke trips they have mostly been top quality too. First Blood and Ultravixens probably the highlights so far.

20 boulders 7A+ and above.
12. For once I haven't totally stopped bouldering once rope season has started and have enjoyed a great couple of days out because of that. Would be 13 if I hadn't fallen off the last move of Whisky Bitch last weekend.