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Aims for 2023 (Read 22540 times)

duncan

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#50 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 09:18:02 am

1. Try hard. Fall off a trad. route, or entertain onlookers [© reeve, an excellent measure]. Fall off sport routes lots of times.

2. Put some time into a good 7b/+.  Possibles include, in roughly increasing order of unlikelihood, Living Dead, Empire..., Road Rage, Paradise Lost, Cave Route RH.

3. Get on a classic seacliff E5. 

4. Rematch with Supersonic.

5. Climb at four from: Scottish Highlands, Islands, Fairhead, Lundy, Llŷn, and the north Cornwall coast.

6. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free.

7. Climb in places new to me, including somewhere in the excellent Northern Rock guidebook. Gordale or Malham would be great (not completely new but I’ve only been once, in the previous century, for the trad. of course).

8. Climb with some new people. New indoor partners would be good too, if anyone goes to the Westway or Castle get in touch.

I've omitted non-climbing goals this year as whether I complete the bathroom refit is of no interest beyond close family!

Stabbsy

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#51 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 09:26:11 am
That would be ace. I'm actually in the New Forest second week in July for some family birthdays, not sure of plans after that, might head to Dorset or to parents in Dawlish, if that could tie in with anyone. Nice to do some DWS without the risk of hypothermia.
That's disappointing! I'm in/near Aberdeen the second week of July for a wedding and was planning on hitting you up for a tour.

SA Chris

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#52 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 09:40:13 am
Noooo! it's 14/15/16 weekend and the week after so actually the 3rd weekend?

I can give you some lowdown if I'm not here.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2023, 09:55:59 am by SA Chris »

SA Chris

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#53 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 09:52:06 am
Climbing

Get over finger injury.

Get a couple of local bouldering projects done.

Tick a couple of good established problems repeated (best option being Rankin's new ones at Johnsheugh).

Get a mountain route or two done.

Get some DWS done, some of the longer Murrayheugh routes.

Get Kyle leading.

Get to some other Scottish bouldering, Strathnairn, Torridon and Dromore

Running

PB a road HM (1:38:00 or better).

1000 km for the year, (1200 as a stretch goal).

Not sure what else, maybe a marathon or a trail ultra.

General

Do a CPR / Defib refresher

Get a couple of local ski tours done

Surf more

Get work needed on house done

Get to 50 mark on family Munros (currently 23). Getting trickier as we get the nearby ones ticked off.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2023, 10:02:23 am by SA Chris »

AJM

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#54 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 10:02:01 pm
1. Return to full body functionality. Rehab my hamstring, regain the ability to heel hook, sort my shoulder out, try to work on flexibility too (part of hamstring rehab too)

2. Get out of Dorset a bit more. Aside from actual holidays, I didn’t get away much last year, got into a bit of a rut of local things. Even if it’s just short weekends to Dartmoor or day trips to Avon or Wye, every little helps. I’d also like to sort out some cool holiday trips as well.

3. Work out a sustainable balance of family and more focused climbing. MiniAJM seems to be really enjoying toproping and MrsAJM has got back into climbing a bit more recently. But at the same time almost all the local trad and much of the better sport is in fairly child unfriendly locations or needs child unfriendly time windows (eg Portland west coast evenings), so working out a way to do some more focused days or evenings and some family days and getting a sensible mix.

4.I said it last year, but I’d like to get more trad done - even if it’s just easier starred stuff - although preferably back into the E grades.

5.More dws. I’d like to build the CV at Portland, Swanage and/or Devon, and I’d like to get to the point where I’m falling off the top of Mark of the Beast like all my mates rather than wussing out of the scary bit at the bottom. Or ticking it, obviously.

6.I’d like to try hard on some sport again, be that some good onsight attempts (low 7s?) or some redpointing (high 7s?)

AJM

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#55 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 10:04:17 pm
Very interested in Devon dws meet-up, and happy to show people round the Dorset dws if I’m around.

Also Duncan many of your 7b/+s and venues are on my list, so keep me in the loop!

kingholmesy

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#56 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 10:43:20 pm

3. Get on a classic seacliff E5. 

5. Climb at … Llŷn.

6. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free.

8. Climb with some new people.

Vulture?  OK so it’s E4, but could still tick off a few from your list in one go …

SA Chris

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#57 Re: Aims for 2023
January 06, 2023, 11:58:09 pm

5. Climb at : Scottish Highlands,

6. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free.

8. Climb with some new people.

If grades aren't too insane, could help tick a few of those. Seeing as you climbed at Craig Stirling which I can see from my front window and didn't even stop in for a coffee :)

andy moles

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#58 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 09:00:35 am

3. Get on a classic seacliff E5. 

5. Climb at … Llŷn.

6. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free.

8. Climb with some new people.

Vulture?  OK so it’s E4, but could still tick off a few from your list in one go …

I've interpreted Duncan's 'fairly long' as around the upper limit of what's possible in the UK, i.e. St John's Head or Foula, with the longer ~8 pitch mountain routes maybe just scraping in?

kingholmesy

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#59 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 10:40:11 am

I've interpreted Duncan's 'fairly long' as around the upper limit of what's possible in the UK, i.e. St John's Head or Foula, with the longer ~8 pitch mountain routes maybe just scraping in?

Yeah I know “fairly long” suggests something more than just a standard multi-pitch.

I was only being half serious. I’m not entirely sure Vulture is the sort of route you’d get on the first time climbing with someone you’d never met before, given that the guidebook says “A fall on either the first, second, or third pitch could result in a serious accident for one or possibly both members of the team.”

Not that I’m ruling it out Duncan …  ;)

duncan

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#60 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 11:28:30 am
Thanks for the enthusiasm chaps. PMs heading in various directions.

I've interpreted Duncan's 'fairly long' as around the upper limit of what's possible in the UK, i.e. St John's Head or Foula, with the longer ~8 pitch mountain routes maybe just scraping in?

 I meant a route that takes a long day and after which you feel like a long lie-down! As Andy says, there are very few of these in the UK but they definitely include St John's Head. Torro doesn't make the cut as, despite being 8 pitches, had I been usually fit I'd have been up for a second route that day. Automatic disqualification.


I was only being half serious. I’m not entirely sure Vulture is the sort of route you’d get on the first time climbing with someone you’d never met before, given that the guidebook says “A fall on either the first, second, or third pitch could result in a serious accident for one or possibly both members of the team.”

Not that I’m ruling it out Duncan …  ;)

Thanks for the vote of confidence! 1996 model Duncan would have been up for it, however I think that bird may have flown... 

Bradders

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#61 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 03:50:39 pm
Climbing
- Limit projecting to 2 or 3 c. 4 week periods in the year
- Outside of those periods no more than 2 sessions on anything
- Long trips to Ireland and Switzerland
- Climb indoors more whilst training, not just on the boards
- Warm up on my home board before going out, particularly for projecting
- 100 sessions on rock
- When trying crux moves / sequences, when you stick it climb all the way to the top. Do this at least once a session.
- If you try a move and nearly stick it but fall off, either pull straight back on (if possible) and try to do the next move, or visualise sticking the move and continuing climbing.
- Climb with other people more regularly

Grade Chasing
- >50 7B and up
- >15 7C and up
- 8A
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff or Caley

Life
- Move house
- Keep exploring potential to move abroad for an extended period
- Eat lots of vegetables

Training
- Stick to plan / don't get distracted by going outside
- Do my ex-projects warm up circuit; x4 problems which I've done before but took me ages. One go on each at the start of a session. Current PB is doing 2 of them and dropping last or penultimate moves on the other 2.

NaoB

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#62 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 06:50:23 pm
This is my first foray into setting my goals out officially for a year. Usually, my health has been too unpredictable, making concrete aims more likely to be disappointments.... But 2022 was my best 12 months health-wise for a long, long time, and I'm hoping that this will continue. So here goes:

1) Recover from my Font ankle injury, and then DON'T GET INJURED for the rest of my life! To facilitate this goal, I plan to be extra vigilant about pad arrangements, prepared to walk away from situations or landings that feel dodgy, and generally to pay attention to the little voices in my head that predict injury/ disaster - they seem to know what they're on about.

2) Climb some proper trad routes. Preferably a trad trip somewhere exotic like Cornwall, Pembroke or Scotland, but I'd settle for North Wales and the Lakes too.

3) Keep working on Bat Route. I'm punching above my weight here, yet I feel the process is useful for the rest of my climbing, it's a privilege to be up there and, well, you never know....

4) Try a 'proper' 8A boulder. Find one that I like, at a venue that has something to keep Jordan interested too, and stick with it.

5) Do some actual training. I've got goals to be able to do a front lever, a one-armer (hah!) and to improve my fingerboarding ability (which is woeful compared to my rock performance). I'd also like to climb more on training boards. Let's say 12 sessions on boards other than my own.

Johnny Brown

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#63 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 09:04:31 pm

3. Get on a classic seacliff E5. 

5. Climb at … Llŷn.

6. Do something fairly long, somewhat hard, and mostly free.

8. Climb with some new people.

Vulture?  OK so it’s E4, but could still tick off a few from your list in one go …

You’d certainly be unlikely to be up for another route. The guide is a little melodramatic, the first pitch is the only one that felt dangerous, albeit 4c climbing. Second is literally walking across a ledge, quite a big ledge, unprotected but it’s not climbing. Third seemed more conventional but still HVS climbing, fourth surprisingly hard, goes from E1 4c overall to proper E4, but in a fairly conventional style, I regretted wearing my biggest boots.

SA Chris

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#64 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 09:43:24 pm
....trad trip somewhere exotic like ,,,,,Scotland,

Not words I thought I would see in the same sentence...

dunnyg

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#65 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 09:51:37 pm
Anywhere is exotic compared to Lancashire

NaoB

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#66 Re: Aims for 2023
January 07, 2023, 10:20:01 pm
Exactly! I love Lancashire, but the trad routes I did there over the past year did not register on my adventure-o-meter....

SA Chris

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#67 Re: Aims for 2023
January 08, 2023, 10:30:04 pm
Well give us a shout if you venture to NE Scotland again, can offer a decent coffee if nothing else.

Goat

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#68 Re: Aims for 2023
January 14, 2023, 02:09:15 pm
Sorry for being late.  Context: Work forced me to watch a 90-minute meeting on goal setting, so I thought I might as well optimise the use of that time. I also added a few additional ideas
A ranking (.) of importance has been added to each goal
Correlative goal:(-) A goal that is correlated to the amount of work you put in to the goal.
Causative goal: (--) A goal that is directly caused by the amount of work you put into that goal.
Correlative goals are not necessarily reflective of input, so for each correlative goal I have a causative goal to assist it.

Improve finger strength in acute positions
-Front-3 half crimp (or more acute) 8-2 repeaters comfortably at BW on the Beastmaker2000 outer edges.
--Do at least 1 repeater session every week.* (4)

Improve flexibility
-Hamstrings- Get both of my heels to the top of the fridge with no assistance other than balance stabilization.
-Hips-Side splits progress to both heels outside of the 6 tile range in the kitchen.
--Continue to stretch before dinner on standard rest days, targeting these areas as well as general mobility and rehab work. (3)

Minimise injuries and injury risk (goals are gonna get more complex for this)
-No major injuries (defN: 3-months or more of impaired climbing or worse such as serious impairment)
-Only up to one new medium injury (defN: (1-3)-months of impaired climbing)

--At least 1 lower intensity volume/technique session per week. (1) (e.g repeaters followed by trying problems up to 3 times before moving on.)
-Come up with creative ways to enjoy lower intensity sessions.

The following is one goal (2)
--Before each school session honestly assign it to a category and try to keep sessions in their box.
   power (high intensity)
   finger strength (high intensity)
   power and finger strength (high intensity)
   volume (lower intensity)
   technique (lower intensity)
   other (lower intensity)
--No more than 2 sessions a week with high intensity power. Such sessions must have at least 2 days in between them.
--No more than 2 sessions a week with high intensity finger strength. Such sessions must have at least 2 days in between them.


*This will usually be 4 sets of hangs for a warmup. Deviations from this are allowed for a holiday. This has intentionally been set as a very simple goal to allow for deviations in acute finger training while still being able to keep up with this underlying goal all year round.

shark

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#69 Re: Aims for 2023
January 15, 2023, 08:59:13 pm
Good grief Goat - are we even related?

Aim this year - to have as good as good a year as last year but climb a bit harder and tick a couple of long term projects.

Fiend

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#70 Re: Aims for 2023
January 15, 2023, 10:03:30 pm
Good grief Goat - are we even related?
Quite obviously! Although he's certainly outdoing you on the deep and meaningful soul climber spiritual inspiration there  ;D

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#71 Re: Aims for 2023
January 19, 2023, 09:35:04 am
Rollover year with added details:

1. Stay alive and try to find something worth living for.
- keep up with self-care and maintenance in various forms.
- try to find some greater purpose in life in lieu of climbing prowess
- just keep moving.

2. Try to stay active enough not to deteriorate further.
- try to transmogrify my depression into DMac-style "obsessive exercising depression" instead of "hide under the couch and hope the outside world fucks off" depression.
- do more regular gym sessions to complement climbing and regain some lost gym prowess.
- keep up with the "less sporadic than previous years" stretching.

3. Keep pushing to stay in contact with friends, climbing partners, and maintain social life.
- keep putting myself out there with local climbing groups and wall nights even when it's not promising
- be more flexible socially with venues and where and when I go
- try to become more involved and productive in the community (guidebooks, cleaning, clubs)
- meet more climbers whom I share other things with esp. music taste and general vibes

4. Try to be careful enough to heal elbow a bit more.
- keep up with the steady mid-grade mileage indoors as it seems to be working
- add in additional rehab exercises if wrist-curls have plateaued
- do not get fucking complacent
- introduce something vaguely akin to training (Depot 30 board?) as elbow allows

5. See 1.
- if it works I might aim for some climbing goals.

Thanks for posting this, speaking as someone whose 2023 goals are rapidly evolving into "1. Stay alive" and "2. Stay out of psych hospital", with the proviso that if needed I will sacrifice 2 for 1.

Also I quite wanna get Pebble Mill Traverse ticked.

- try to transmogrify my depression into DMac-style "obsessive exercising depression" instead of "hide under the couch and hope the outside world fucks off" depression.

Yeah, how do we do this trick?

We really need Lattice or some other folks to meet the real needs and do a podcast on "how to train when you're depressed as fuck".

Fiend

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#72 Re: Aims for 2023
January 19, 2023, 09:49:22 am
Thanks for posting this, speaking as someone whose 2023 goals are rapidly evolving into "1. Stay alive" and "2. Stay out of psych hospital", with the proviso that if needed I will sacrifice 2 for 1.

Also I quite wanna get Pebble Mill Traverse ticked.
Two naturally similar goals there!

Quote
Yeah, how do we do this trick?

We really need Lattice or some other folks to meet the real needs and do a podcast on "how to train when you're depressed as fuck".
Yup!! It's funny / frustrating how it affects people in different ways. I have a new, openly autistic, friend here who deals with their mental health by training at the gym AND wall 4 times each per week (with the proviso that they always do steady enough sessions to "make sure I can do the next day's exercise"). Dafuck. They're refused offers to gene-splicing with my useless unmotivation too....

Duncan Disorderly

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#73 Re: Aims for 2023
February 13, 2023, 11:49:56 am
Taken a bit of time to get these down but here goes...

Climbing

More F7b's than last year - maybe even one onsight!
F7b+
Get on F7c - F8a project
Moonboard 7A
At least one big trad day
Verdon again
Kalymnos again
Go climb somewhere abroad that I've never been


Other Sports

Surf every month of 2023
Do a bit of fell running

Life
Rebuild relationship with wayward son - hopefully see him get at least a couple of GCSE's
Take daughter somewhere awesome and keep encouraging her climbing (gently...)
Manage long-term injuries so they continue to not cause issues

And it was written.....


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#74 Re: Aims for 2023
February 13, 2023, 11:56:41 am
I had this as a goal last year as well but ideally:

- Reduce volume under 7B/+
- Consolidate 7C - 2 questionable ones done according to all my friends (terrace and bullet) but ideally I’d like to reach 10
- Climb 1 7C+/8A
- stay injury free (good luck to me)
- work on my skin tactics and stop getting splits in the same spots.

 

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