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Aims for 2023 (Read 22545 times)


deacon

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#1 Re: Aims for 2023
December 30, 2022, 02:54:20 pm
Last year was a little lacklustre. Plenty of great days out with lots of good banter but no big numbers (for me). 🙂
I tend not to focus on one discipline at a time but I'd love to see:
Font 7B
f7c
Onsight E5
Headpoint E6

I've had them all in the past but it feels like a lifetime ago, and I'd love to get there again.
2023 bring it on!!!

spidermonkey09

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#2 Re: Aims for 2023
December 30, 2022, 06:29:01 pm
1) Unjustified. I've linked the headwall from the big undercut but thats the easy bit! Also need to put a new belay in on it, ideally before the spring.
2) The Groove (again!)

3) Cashmere Cat
4) Font 8A?

5) Get new bathroom in the house.
6) Enjoy having a dog but still go climbing; basically make him good to take to the crag.
7) Set up PhD for the final year push in 2024.

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#3 Re: Aims for 2023
December 30, 2022, 07:02:35 pm
For the following year I wish to avoid any unessential injuries, climb with friends and climb some nice boulders in an off piste setting.

I'd also like to succeed in climbing the 2 projects I was close to doing this time last year, and find another amazing crack boulder to compliment the 2 that fiend found me to convalesce on.

csl

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#4 Re: Aims for 2023
December 30, 2022, 07:12:54 pm
First year with a young child so keeping it simple

Fingerboard > 100 times
Climb indoors > 50 times
Climb outdoors > 10 times

RobK

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#5 Re: Aims for 2023
December 30, 2022, 07:39:53 pm
I didn't set any goals last year and ended up a feeling a little bit aimless at times. This wasn't necessarily a bad thing, but I feel like having a bit more focus in 2023.

At least 3 of the following existing projects. These range from having had a brief play, to having had 4-5 sessions on and repeatedly falling at the chains. *Cough* Biological *Cough*.
Canyonlands, Devil's Gorge
Nanabozho, Llanddulas
Broken Dreams, Dinbren
Bad Bad Boy, LPT
Biological Need, Kinsey
Herbie, Malham

At least 1 of the harder routes I've had my eye on. This list may evolve if other stuff takes my eye.
Hades, Devil's Gorge
Statement of Youth, LPT
Insomnia, Dinbren

Beat last year's record of 5 trad routes.

20 boulders 7A+ and above.

Wil

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#6 Re: Aims for 2023
December 30, 2022, 07:57:16 pm
Sort out the garden: Dog-proof it with new fences, dig up the drive and replace with lawn, plant a couple of trees, cut the hedge back to manageable proportions.

Get a dog.

Actually use my fingerboard.

Sport climbing: Silk Purse at Dunkeld is my obvious target. I'd also like to do one of the 7cs at Tunnel Walls and have a play on Axiom.

Trad: Get a couple of weekends doing big, hardish mountain routes in the E2-5 range. Have a bash at Lady Charlotte and Rat Race at Dunkeld. A trip elsewhere would be good too.

Winter: Bag 3 classic winter routes this season, ideally at new-to-me venues, but I'm not fussy.

Other: I've been working on plans for a link-up project that I'd like to film if possible. The idea would be to cycle from home (Bridge of Allan) and have a big day in the mountains, inspired by Colin Kirkus's exploits. From here that would mean either cycling to Glen Coe, or more likely doing a link-up of winter routes near Tyndrum, with the whole thing taking probably 3 days. Even better if I can repeat with a summer rock version.

Hopefully, attain fulfilling employment. My bar for this is pretty low after a series of really shitty employers! Simply feeling valued and having prospects for future progress both professionally and in terms of skills would be good. Course to hopefully accelerate this starts in January.

Andy F

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#7 Re: Aims for 2023
December 30, 2022, 08:41:17 pm
Keeping it simple and achievable as usual.
Sport: 7b+, anything harder is a bonus (which means I'll end up trying an 8a).
Bouldering: actually do some, 7A hopefully.
Trad: who knows? Hopefully Fiend will drag me to the quarries and I'll lead another route. Let's go E2 this time. Ambitious but possibly achievable.

Aussiegav

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#8 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 08:51:35 am
Outside Climbing

20+ days outside climbing
Have great family trip to El Chorro

Onsight 6c

Onsight 6b+ x3

Redpoint 7a in a day

Depot Goals

Complete 80% of a purple circuit
Complete 2  of a yellow circuit
Climb 5 yellows
Flash 10 purples
« Last Edit: December 31, 2022, 09:21:27 am by Aussiegav »

kingholmesy

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#9 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 10:17:22 am
Climbing

1. I would be pleased to do any E5 off the list of half a dozen or so South West routes that I always put off trying cos they look too hard and/or scary. Il Duce would be the ultimate, but not sure I will have both the courage and a partner to try it.

2. Climb something decent outside of Devon & Cornwall. Ideally something in the Lllanberis pass, or Gogarth or the Llyn.

Life

3. Get better at jumps on my recently purchased mountain bike, hopefully without smashing myself to pieces.

4. Get promotion at work.

5. Have a family holiday abroad that everyone enjoys.

Ged

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#10 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 10:25:03 am
Climbing

1. I would be pleased to do any E5 off the list of half a dozen or so South West routes that I always put off trying cos they look too hard and/or scary. Il Duce would be the ultimate, but not sure I will have both the courage and a partner to try it.

2. Climb something decent outside of Devon & Cornwall. Ideally something in the Lllanberis pass, or Gogarth or the Llyn.

Life

3. Get better at jumps on my recently purchased mountain bike, hopefully without smashing myself to pieces.

4. Get promotion at work.

5. Have a family holiday abroad that everyone enjoys.

I can't believe you haven't done il duce luke, I would've thought it'd be right up your street.

I'll happily admit that the belay at the end of the 3rd pitch was the most scared I've ever been

andy moles

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#11 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 10:31:59 am
I'll happily admit that the belay at the end of the 3rd pitch was the most scared I've ever been

I skipped that belay, which given the ensuing rope drag in that terrain was possibly no less memorable, in fact I wrote a story about it.
https://www.molehillsclimbing.co.uk/post/culm-undone

(by way of explanation, the Rockfax database at the time did categorise Tintagel as culm)

kingholmesy

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#12 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 01:18:01 pm

I can't believe you haven't done il duce luke, I would've thought it'd be right up your street.


In my defence I have tried it twice!

On the first attempt about 8 years ago I took a whipper from the roof, smacked my leg pretty bad and had to reverse the first pitch to get out then crawl up the grass slopes.

On the second attempt a year or two later I went back with a rope gun with the plan of getting him to lead the crux pitch but it was soppy wet and he quickly lost enthusiasm for climbing Il Duce or anything else on High Cliff.  I’ve not been back since.

Does anyone have any beta for the roof? I remember attempting to monkey straight out using a biggish hold on the face of the small overlap that goes out below the roof (on your left side if you lean straight backwards while under the roof). I had this hold with both hands and then tried to match my right heel onto it, but promptly fell off.

How do people climb this section? Jamming the crack? Using face holds on the little overlap? Heading straight out, or turning to your left and undercutting with feet on the overlap?

It’s been 6 or 7 years since I was down there so my memory of that section might be a bit hazy, but any pointers would be appreciated!

Oh, and did you get any gear in the roof? I didn’t have anything after the top of the crack that you climb to get there.

duncan

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#13 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 03:35:15 pm

I can't believe you haven't done il duce luke, I would've thought it'd be right up your street.


In my defence I have tried it twice!

On the first attempt about 8 years ago I took a whipper from the roof, smacked my leg pretty bad and had to reverse the first pitch to get out then crawl up the grass slopes.

On the second attempt a year or two later I went back with a rope gun with the plan of getting him to lead the crux pitch but it was soppy wet and he quickly lost enthusiasm for climbing Il Duce or anything else on High Cliff.  I’ve not been back since.

Does anyone have any beta for the roof? I remember attempting to monkey straight out using a biggish hold on the face of the small overlap that goes out below the roof (on your left side if you lean straight backwards while under the roof). I had this hold with both hands and then tried to match my right heel onto it, but promptly fell off.

How do people climb this section? Jamming the crack? Using face holds on the little overlap? Heading straight out, or turning to your left and undercutting with feet on the overlap?

It’s been 6 or 7 years since I was down there so my memory of that section might be a bit hazy, but any pointers would be appreciated!

Oh, and did you get any gear in the roof? I didn’t have anything after the top of the crack that you climb to get there.

It took me three visits to get it done. The corner is slow to dry as, although it's a long way above the sea, a decent swell gets funnelled up it. A late afternoon in summer might be a good idea. We were not helped by dawn starts to swerve the entrance charge (my partner at the time thought it morally wrong to pay to climb anywhere ever) and avoid the hassle of writing to English Heritage for a permit. Fortunately this is all a lot more straightforward now.

At the time (the last century, so factor in memory-loss) it felt reasonable for E5 and it is clearly within your powers. A great route and one of the North Cornwall Big Three so an essential tick for the aficionado. The technically hardest bit is the crack up to the roof. After that it felt like E3/4 5b/c territory. I am completely confident I didn't use my heels in any way. If I recall correctly, I turned left and undercutted the roof briskly and gearlessly to the lip then posted myself into the chimney where you get a spectacular hands-off rest and it gets easier. Contradicting this, the photo in Extreme Rock shows gear in the roof and description suggests jams. I don't remember the moves being hard but, as usual with a Pat Littlejohn E5, "a confident approach pays dividends". 

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#14 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 04:34:23 pm
Usual running/climbing split for me. Managing the balance is always a challenge, so just being happy with one or the other would be great!

Climbing :-

  • 1. Do more stuff on a rope. 2021 2022 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).
  • 2. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - failed at this in recent years so need to make more effort before the wet Autumn weather writes the season off and I scuttle back indoors. I'll put a number on it to try and make it more specific - 10 problems F7B and above.
  • 3. Have a weekend away somewhere - I was promised one for last year's birthday that never happened, just need to make some work headspace and get something booked in. Make the effort to meet up with friends more, rather than going solo all the time.
  • 4. Some arbitrary numbers - 20 new problems F7A and above, 5 new (to me) crags.

Running :-

  • 1. 2 PBs on the road - still feel like my 10k time lags behind the rest of my PBs by about 30/45 seconds, so keen to right that wrong. Also another HM effort. 10-mile PB would be a gimme if ever entered another!
  • 2. Train a bit more specifically for the fells in the spring and see what happens in English Champs and club champs races from May onwards
  • 3. Some arbitrary numbers - 50+ Oxstones runs to/from home, 30+ different trig points.

Life :-

  • 1. Finish off house projects - just the kitchen to go once the decking/garden get done in the new year.
  • 2. Make more time to spend with my wife and without the kids. Do something nice for her 40th.

kingholmesy

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#15 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 04:47:51 pm
Thanks Duncan, that’s super helpful and has got me psyched to go back.

I found the starting crack a bit pokey but basically ok, then got totally flummoxed by the roof so maybe I was trying a crap sequence. I guess I will have to try again!

It’s the last of the Littlejohn SW big three that I need to complete so I’m pretty keen to get it ticked.

If anyone did the roof differently to Duncan then do pipe up!

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#16 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 05:22:42 pm
Get better from long covid, ie be able to function like a regular human being. This looks like being able to work, walk around, do some sort of exercise at any level. If I can get that done consistently then obviously I’ll be doing some sort of climbing, I will be happy with anything at the moment even just going to the wall.

If I make it to this point any time over the next year then I can think seriously about more tailored goals, let’s see where I’m at in six months.

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#17 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 05:30:11 pm
Thanks Duncan, that’s super helpful and has got me psyched to go back.

I found the starting crack a bit pokey but basically ok, then got totally flummoxed by the roof so maybe I was trying a crap sequence. I guess I will have to try again!

It’s the last of the Littlejohn SW big three that I need to complete so I’m pretty keen to get it ticked.

If anyone did the roof differently to Duncan then do pipe up!
I pulled on the peg like PL. ;)

kingholmesy

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#18 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 06:01:24 pm

I pulled on the peg like PL. ;)

 :lol: If only it was still there!

Ged

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#19 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 06:12:50 pm

I pulled on the peg like PL. ;)

 :lol: If only it was still there!

I can't remember, other than thinking it was hard.

The next pitch is great, but I got properly spooked at the belay. Spent about half an hour trying to find anything to belay off at the ledge, and ended up doing the whole "don't fall off" call to partner. I don't know what others have done, but all I found was 1 pretty average sideways big wire a bit above the ledge. Maybe some people move out right to the crack and do a hanging belay? I had run out of sufficient gear to do this. Did there used to be pegs at the belay?

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#20 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 07:53:10 pm
My aim for 2023 is to boulder outdoors lots, not injure myself, maybe do a 7B, enjoy climbing as much as I can rather than treating it as a constant challenge that I must improve on. I'd like to climb the various projects I've made progress on (Violence, Nazgul, Bumlog Millionaire).

In terms of non climbing but physical stuff, I'd like to cleanly bench 100kgs (my PB last year was 95kgs so seems very possible), I'd like to do a one armer, I'd like to do several reps of strict muscle ups on rings. Just generally be stronger and more gymnastic. I'd also like to learn to snatch and C&J, not bothered about numbers just like the movement.

Non physical goals; pass driving test, renovate bathroom, get a promotion at work, continue good work in my mental health, volunteer regularly at the local youth club, cook more, go to some festivals.

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#21 Re: Aims for 2023
December 31, 2022, 11:08:25 pm
This autumn I totted up the list of trad routes I’ve yet to lead clean despite having attempted them more than once, some a ludicrous amount of times. None were that hard or far from where I live and I think if I tried most of them for the first time now I’d onsight them but they’d just got in my head for various reasons. I ticked some this year and each time it gave me such a confidence boost that I want to climb the remaining 11 (for want of a better term) bogey routes so I can get more of that boost and move on with my climbing.

Sometime in 2021 I became curious about what would constitute my Best trad year ever. The answer (27+ HVSs, 7+ E1s & 2+ E2s) seemed pretty impressive then but now, buoyed by nearly five years of rehab, training, gradually improving performance and possibly also that confidence you get when it’s a while since you last went climbing, I feel both disappointed in how little trad my past self did when he was climbing at his best and, far more importantly, that I could not only achieve but possibly even smash that relatively feeble total in 2023. Let’s GO.

I improved from problematically inflexible to passably flexible in 2022 by doing at least some leg stretching for 242 days of the year. Let’s see what improvement I can make with 300+ days leg stretches.

39+ days with a fingerboard session to keep it ticking over.

Repeat my strength PBs Rolled over from the last two years. I honestly don’t think that not being able to do (for example) a pull-up with 30kg added is going to be the stopper on my more important goals but I want to keep ticking the lot as an aspirational aim as it stops me neglecting conditioning aspects and keeps me motivated in the winter.

10+ days on high moors or mountain crags I’ll be happy if they’re all just on moorland grit really.

Take more photos than just action & landscape I’m so focussed on these two areas (mainly just the first one really) that I never really take others, even with my phone, when I’m out climbing. My Dad’s at the end of his life and he has a huge variety of pictures that he took throughout his life that have become both his memory bank and his main source of entertainment. I don’t want to be in his position but with nothing but climbing action shots that I don’t remember the context of.

Fuck it, let’s throw perfect Ain’t No Stoppin’ Us Now on the bass in there too  ;D.

Good luck everyone!  :thumbsup:

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#22 Re: Aims for 2023
January 01, 2023, 09:42:31 am
1. climb outside at least once a month
2. consistently get my weight down a bit (3/4kg)
3. go to 5 different bouldering venues
4. climb above the sea
5. get the new home feeling like home and install a home board
6. take some photos of local rugby and climbing
7. relaunch science at school and attempt a meaningful science week

8. Last but not least, same as ever, flash the L2 set on the wave.

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#23 Re: Aims for 2023
January 01, 2023, 03:32:08 pm
Interesting year coming up because I'll be actively invested in the goals of others as well as my own much more than in previous years due to finally getting my act together and starting offering coaching.

1) Knuckle down and get some momentum on this coaching venture. Hopefully find some of the mythical organic growth.

2) Consolidate at 8A on multiple rock types/styles.

3) Flash 7C on rock (several candidates identified on the local sandstone in the Schwarzwald.

4) Put some sessions in to the Vhard ultra-optimism project.

5) Get decently route fit for at least two months of the year.

6) Make it to Norway and climb anything on Kjerag (weather dependent!).

7) Very likely go back to University  :o

8 ) Make as much use of the van as possible.

9) re.8 - visit at least 6 new climbing areas.

10) Spend more time outside of my comfort zone both in life and on rock.

11) Finish the book I've had 2/3rds done since May and try to publish.

 :great:
« Last Edit: January 01, 2023, 03:40:57 pm by MischaHY »

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#24 Re: Aims for 2023
January 01, 2023, 05:09:29 pm
Having always been an opportunistic all-rounder with an allergy to structured training, I'm going to try setting a few more specific goals this year. Not with the aim of setting loads of new PBs, but just to see what it's like and whether having more focus keeps me more consistently motivated.

Climbing specific
Finish local E8 proj
At least one boulder problem =>7C
5 sport routes in the 7c-8a range
Maintain some condition through the winter season (i.e. wall or board twice a week, assuming opportunities to climb outside don't happen)
Sailing trip to Norway (subsidiary aim to climb one or two new routes)

Non-climbing specific
Stretch upper body every time I go climbing
Stretch lower body every day (will not count this a fail if it's not literally every day, but aim to get close)








 

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