[dave]

i always figured that the craig david main roof stuff could probably get to the easier ground and breaks up high then drop off - that wasy you're not topping out inot soemone backyard, and its wont necessitate cutting down loads of ivy and shit. lets be eco-logical here.

[Teaboy]

I'm staggered that somewhere like this could remain secret for so long. Is it a hoax?! Obviously the access is sensitive but everyone has known of Crag X for years. How was it discovered and what's been done?

[cofe]

i spoke to the bmc and the ramblers association (they're blinged out on access issues etc) about sorting it out but i got bored. could be a new years revolution.

various probs have been iced. i've been a few times but never got chance to climb there (pity the fool).

[dave]

loads of people know about it, but most dismissed it is being unclimbable. Me and paz went and did some easier stuff there (and Paz lead a VS corner crack!) several years ago, and i've been back like once or twice since to show it to people like cofe and strawberry. Then just as there starts to be some action this year the landowners kicked off.

this is one of the right hand lower roofs where most of the existing problems are - kim and scouse are on this sloper thing lof lovejoys which is excellent full-body involvment, superb.

[Jim]

fuck me, even I'm getting phyched for going back to craig david.
The other good thing about this crag is that you can climb there in the pissing rain!
That prob Kim and scouse is on is excellent, involving double heel toes and body tension if I remember rightly.
The roof at the far left hand side is massive

[Bonjoy]

As featured on page one of this thread. Scouse on the '8a project'

[Jim]

plus there's also facilities for a fire incase it gets cold!

[Scouse D]

yo yo yo. What a fuckin awesome crag, I'm psyched to go see the landowner.

[dave]

i love the internet. fucking psyched at work - brilliant.

[Paz]

Paz's Crack - the (unrepeated?) Crag Classic.

[Bonjoy]

Repeated by Jason Pickles in trainers. He looked mildly disappointed when I said it wasn't a FA.

[clm]

been to see this today and it is fully awesome.  utterly blank and one of those pieces of rock that looks impossible.  the grit has sheared so it is completely smooth.  its not small either.
and while im ranting...why does it rain not when you are geting in to youre car, not while youre driving youre car but as you fucking park at the fucking crag :evil:

[account_inactive]

I looked at it about 8 years ago on an ab-rope
Its possible but as a solo rather than a high ball
Would still be up for having a go though

[r-man]

I looked at it about 8 years ago on an ab-rope
Its possible but as a solo rather than a high ball

Is the break at two thirds height no good then? looked like the problem might be over once you reached it. Though I did wonder if it was actually a long sloping shelf rather than a break...

[clm]

but it is very big.  ie if you were climbing the groove to the left then the obvious jug at the top of the light coloured triangle of rock is out of reach.

[Bonjoy]

[Jim]

some more animated madness. a disapointing lack of foxes tho....

[Bonjoy]

Don't worry Jim, there's plenty more where the fox came from....

[Nigel]

You'd have thought he'd have got it after all those goes. Especially since he can fly, which seems to be saving him getting his feet dirty...

[Johnny Brown]

It did keep my feet dry but was quite tiring, so as I improved on the prob my tiredness cancelled it out. Hence the remarkably similar attempts you see above...

[ian h]

where is that ? what is the hold you catch like ?

looks top notch

[dave]

wimberry, think its a good flatty or a bit positive.

tis a contry mile though, with bad footholds, awkward handholds and awkward  landing

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah top hold is good, start holds used to be much better. It's steeper than it looks though, hence the sudden flight backwards. Likely to be a shoulder-dislocator on the catch...

[r-man]

Reinvestigated a few lancs possibilililililities today...



About 5 deg. overhanging. A few hard lines on tiny sharp crimps. I
brushed some of them - the rock is orange beneath the lichen (but the
crimps aren't nearly as big as the brush marks):


Will probably need more brushing. Plus there's a big rock buried at the
bottom of one of the roots that needs digging out for a sitstart.

And up river, here's a sort of vague line of slopey sidepulls. Doesn't need much cleaning.



This, however, needs a garden removing from the top, as it seeps. Some
hard looking problems, especially the right to left traverse and the up
problem from a sitstart via the sloping hold low on the main block. Looks
like it will be brilliant when it's clean and dry (though I'm not even sure
how you'd pull on from standing, that hold is about waist level and there
isn't much else)...



Crimps, slopers, baffled walkers...what more could you want? :

[a dense loner]

an exit sign!