[r-man]

Following the theme of themed pic posting, here's a goodun - pics of unclimbed problems. Things to try whilst the weather's cold and the friction's good... Lets see some inspiring rock...

I'll start with some lancashire gems:

The arete at Lower Montcliffe - doubt anyone has climbed this. Would take a few mats and spotters and some seriously hard climbing. Needs a few sunny days to dry off...



The Wilton 3 boulder - This boulder has been climbed, but by only a few I would guess...and there is still one problem outstanding.  The arete on the right is the problem Clm was talking about a while ago, and goes at 6c. The superdirect without any holds on the left wall has apparently yet to be done. The line in the middle is 6b and the steep arete on the left is also 6c and has been done by Ryan Pasquill above a shocking landing, from a sit-start. Awesome boulder...

[img]

Lets see some more then - there must be a few peakside, unless you're all keeping them top-secret...  :wink:

[Fiend]

Thinly veiled attempt to promote Lancashire bouldering or what??

Good topic otherwise, although persuading people to part with their possible projects will be....interesting.

[r-man]

Thinly veiled attempt to promote Lancashire bouldering or what??

But of course. Not much in the way of a veil at all really. :wink:

persuading people to part with their possible projects will be....interesting

True, but they can still keep the location secret. And there must be lines that people have just written off as too hard...

[Bonjoy]

 Project 1 at Mother's Pet

Project 2 at Mother's Pet

The '8a project' at Crag Daveed

[Fiend]

Any more projects at Mother's Pet then?? lol

Anyway, a bit OT here, it's not exactly a problem (unless you count a 15m+ death route a problem in which case you should probably be writing for OTE haha hoho), but it is stunning:



Huge, dominating, blunt arete at Sandy Crag, Northumberland, it towers over you and is at least vertical. 15m high or more, the top 5m is gained by an E5 traversing in from the left. Below that, it's perfectly truncated at 45', and once you're off the sidepull, there's no holds except a tiny mono. Strictly futuristic business tings.

[r-man]

Cool in the gang. All inspiring stuff.

Whereabouts is Craig David? Is it a recent development?

Here's another lancashire project, this one at Brownstones. It's the bottom of the 6c Groundhog problem, which really deserves a large E-grade. But the sit-start up to the good ledge is just right for boulderers and their bottoms. And as far as I can ascertain, it still hasn't been climbed, despite a fair amount of attention...



Been doing a bit of research into Brownstones recently for the guide. It turns out there are still a surprising number of projects on the go. Mostly on the long back wall, for some of which a minimum grade of V11 have been mooted. And then there's the traverse of that whole wall, which apparently has rather blank sections of Ft8a to connect. Might be some time till anyone manages that one...

[Graeme]

I think thats already been done, I'm lead to believe its Groundhog Day I'll check it out with old man Kay when I see him next, or you could just ask him on the other forum.

[Sloper]

There's also the arete in its entireity at Robin Hoods Stride (by that 8a problem), the groove at Burbage SOuth (the nortern end), the crack leading out left from The Joker, The groove on the back of the fear and loathing boulder.

Sorry I've got no pictures of any of these!

[r-man]

Re: Groundhog day...
Emailed Andy, but he doesn't know anything about it.

[Huffy]

Hey Bonjoy,

I'm not sure but think Dan might have climbed 'project 2' at mothers pet rock.

[Bonjoy]

Which Dan be that? Bear in mind that two other projects have been done up the middle since the old guide came out, one up the line of chalked holds above the guy in red in the top pic and one up the line of chalked holds left of Kim in the other pic.
You should give the projects a go, how's your front crawl?

[clm]

that wilton boulder.

im not sure the central line is 6b.  there is a 5b ish one where there is the step in the over hang but the other central line is nails.  seems to go up the left edge of the paler streak and has one of the thinnest moves i have ever done (before i fell off) trying to twin palm against the bottom of the overlap.  plus its in the lancs bible at a meaty E5 :shock: 6c.  rodins requiem.
Damn that right arete looks like a good problem... :wink:

[Bonjoy]

Whereabouts is Craig David? Is it a recent development?

Craig David was the best (Crag X excluded) limestone bouldering venue in the Peak area till the landowner turned up and kicked us off. Nice comfy slopey rock, ultra steep, scope for super hard lines, totally rain proof and not far from Sheff.

Any more projects at Mother's Pet then?? lol

 There is actually! The shelf between the two b5's is a sick hard mantle project!

[Jim]

re arete at brownstones. Has to have been done years ago that. I've spent a bit of time on it and I reon someone taller than me would piss is

[r-man]

So what's the state of play with Craig David at the moment? climbing banned? Will it remain that way for the forseeable future?

...Re the groundhog arete: Well, it seems quite likely that it has been done, as you say. But as yet no-one has owned up to it, and I've talked to several regulars who have claimed lines that look a lot harder ... But if anyone does have news of a first ascent, let me know and I'll add it to the guide...

[Jim]

Crag Craig David (I hate that fuckin name) is banned and for the forseeable future as well.
Looks like I'll be going up to brownstones tomorrow (weather permitting) to claim that arete then  :wink:

[r-man]

Hey Jim, would you like a copy of the beta version of the brownstones guide? I can email it to you. Several other projects in it, plus some hard new routes and lots of eliminates. I could use a bit of feedback as well...

Same goes for anyone else who wants a copy. Just pm me...

[r-man]

Clm, I had a look in the guide - it's hard to work out from that where exactly Rodin's Requiem goes. And what's that other route The Square? They both have the same number in the guide, which is a bit bonkers.

According to Paul R, (your favorite person  :wink: )

The middle goes at 6b comin in from the right and a bit harder direct.

Does any of that tally with what you tried? I'm gonna do a small guide to Wilton 3 for the website, so I need to be certain what's what...

..And yes, you're right, that right arete does look awesome. I'd quite like a picture of someone on it for the site gallery, so if you feel like climbing it again sometime...

[r-man]

..too much talk and not enough eye candy!

So here's another:

Lester Mill Prow. Pretty highball. Brambles need cleaning round the base, and there are rocks, though with a few mats and spotters it should be alright. On first inspection there don't seem to be any big holds facing the right way, and the arete is actually quite blunt and flared. Looks good... :

[r-man]

And some more.

Cadshaw Quarries

- The red wall looks steep and fingery. Got to be one of the reddest things I've seen. It really is vividly red in real life. The climbing might be good too.

- The black and white photo didn't come out too well unfortunately. Not really sure how to take photos of rock when it's all wet and shiny (any tips?). But it looks like an awesome problem. As far as I could see, there was just the one hold, that long sloping crimp at the bottom, and then perhaps the slight arete could be used. The garden at the top needs removing though, as it seeps horribly at the moment.

- The vague line of slopers looks like it might be a west side story style problem, though with less footholds and a smaller break. Could be good...

[clm]

The square goes up from the base of the right arete, reach left to catch the step in the overlap then up and right using a crimp - 5b/c
rodins requiem up where the ground starts to fall away.  use a shite left hand gaston or a poorer crimp with an even worser right hand crimp.  rock right wards onto a small scoop right on the  lip of the boulder.  would be a hard slab rockover excep th the wall is vertical.  have to start with left foot on the boulder that is across a little gap.

And yes, you're right, that right arete does look awesome. I'd quite like a picture of someone on it for the site gallery, so if you feel like climbing it again sometime...

 
 
oooh, look at me...ill wear me red tshirt!! :wink:

[clm]

You can see the bit you stand in as a light diagonal streak just above the "cave".  its not very big.

And its my housewarming this  :bdays: weekend so theres a possibility that a strong team may be setting lancashire alight on sunday.  brownstones may witness a jonny brown and even...a dense loner.  

im expecting to see you there too jim...alright :twak:

[r-man]

Ok, think I know where those routes are now. The question is, does that mean there are actually four routes up this boulder? The two face routes and the two arete routes...?

The left arete is 6c above the big drop, Ryan Pasquill has done sit start to it, to make it a bit harder. The middle goes at 6b comin in from the right and a bit harder direct.

What do you reckon?

[r-man]

theres a possibility that a strong team may be setting lancashire alight on sunday

Damn, I'm heading peakwards this weekend, coincidentally for another housewarming party...but let me know if you do all end up in Lancs, I'd love to see some of those problems being sent...might just be worth coming back early for...   :

[andy_e]

Yo! i'll be free uin tha mornin if you wanna see some good climbing skills (so do i!) so please contact me!