[petejh]

Apparently you didn’t understand those paragraphs.
I wrote that I didn’t care about people using the name Snowdon. As a comparison to you ‘apparently’ caring enough about the naming rights of a peak four thousand miles away that you’ve never been to  Being given a different name by people you’ve never met and likely never will.

I found that odd. Because if you earnestly care about the notion of cultural minorities wanting important places to be named according to their cultural heritage then you could easily find examples all around you, much closer to home. Including plenty in the climbing world. Extending into Europe there’ll be thousands. I’m confident that never in a month of Sundays would you have thought to make the point to correct someone on their use of the English name of a famous mountain in the UK. Because it isn’t fashionably virtuous to.

The example you chose is a perfectly legitimate example. But it’s a fashionably virtuous example, which is probably why you picked up on it. Almost as if you’re trying to.. signal something. As per most fashions it’s shallow.

[spidermonkey09]

Did you get your Krafty ascent on film Dan? I'd be very interested to see it if so as always thought it looked amazing but the landing looked a bit shonky.

[Duncan campbell]

Heck yes it’s the best thread of the site!!!! 

Great reading through all the entries and feeling the psyche (especially listening to some banging techno mix whilst doing so!) great effort to all involved!!

Top three boulder problems, UK

Not a totally poor year for bouldering for me, but all came from the end of the year as was deep in DIY for the first 3 months

Wet Market SDS, 7B, Fachwen.

Had started to train in earnest to try and get a bit of snap back. Finger strength had started to improve and this was a good marker if this. Was happy to do the stand then after a bit of a play on the start figured the tricky move, had a go from the ground and fell off the top. Calmed down and did it next go. Just felt so snappy catching the crimps. A lovely day out with Flo doing Covid, the highball 6C+ too.

American Monster Crack, 7A, Pant Ifan

Oh so nearly flashed this, slipping out of the jams at the top, then couldn’t remember the sequence for a fair few goes after! With it getting dark managed to pull it out of the bag.

Great to see Flo manage it after me too, though she did fully throw her toys out the pram. Was really getting dark and I was close to suggesting we get going but she turned it on like the pro she is.

The Pit and the Pendulum, 7B+, Milestone.

Ok, so not the world’s best boulder problem! But I tried it before going to font and struggled to even do two of the moves. Came back after a fruitless session on In Your Honour and got it all susses and then just boshed it! Was slapping on the last couple of tricky moves after the undercut. A problem I’ve known about as a hard one for yonks so felt like a progression to do it, especially as 7B+ is my PB.

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Had a two week trip to Font during the heatwave at the end of October, was really fun trip but having ogled hard problems for weeks and feeling strong had to do some mental health management to keep sane.

L’ultime Secret, 7A+, Isatis.

So good, so committing and such a good height!! But, c’mon now - if the crux was at ground level would it even be 6A??? I doubt it. Still the only 7 I did this trip!

Sky Blue Circuit, D+, Rocher Canon

Wow, wow, wow! Never done a full circuit before and I just absolutely loved doing this! Some fantastic problems on this, mostly amazing arêtes but a bit of everything. Just makes you fall back in love with climbing.

Red problems, Isatis.

As it was so warm we mostly just sessions around doing reds, and for me, Isatis reds are just so so good. Would be a hell of a day to do them all! None that I did were too savagely hard but shit me there are a lot!

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Mostly holiday trad climbed last year - need to address that this year! Had two ace holidays- one to Pabbay and Mingulay and one to the Burren, fairly opposite in styles! Gonna be tricky to narrow it down to 3 so apologies if I spill over!

In Profundum Lacu, E5, Pabbay.

Wasn’t feeling super confident in Pabbay which was frustrating. Flo wanted to climb on Pink walls and so did I really but was intimidated. Glad Flo requested this as it’s just so so good! Abbed in first and soaked up the place/got a bit gripped. Then went up a ways and placed some kit as a warm up before coming back down. Then went for it and fuck me that pitch is so so so good! Never desperate but has a fair few tricky sections and is just big too so keeps you on your toes! The crux groove is fantastic - I really found my flow there and from then on really enjoyed it. Luckily there are good tests and the top bit running it out on pegmatite crimps made me feel like Josh Wharton in the Black Canyon only Pabbay is clearly better. Top pitch was fun too, was a beautiful day and Flo loved it. Think we were first back to camp for the only time after this! 

The Raven, E5, Pabbay.

Fell off this and retreated after getting cold in the howling wind on day 1 (probably what knocked my confidence and caused some self-loathing to rear its ugly head.) Faffed about wanting to do Ship of Fools but the traverse in was getting a bit wave smashed at the start and I am a proper wimp above the sea unroped, nearly abbed in but was crippled by lack of confidence. For some mad reason decided to go and have another crack at this, was once again windy but felt bionic on the crux hold that I had felt unable to hold a few days previous. Swarmed up the jams and jugs feeling fairly heroic to the break then scuttled over the roof. I went right a bit as I had seen Andy Moles go this way and the guide makes it look like you step right but apparently it goes direct. Maybe I cheated it, but where I went over the roof was still challenging enough. A rare route that Flo didn’t just piss up on second!

Refraction + Quiksilver + Ice Queen, E5, the Burren.

Ok ok ok. 3for1! All just so good and different!
Ice Queen is more bold, techy and thin. Done on our first day in some fairly hot heat. Could have done with an Ice cream after!
Quiksilver - just ace climbing, nice and friendly as you can get some kit in and then climb through the hard section, rinse and repeat.
Refraction- the one. Knew I had to do it as it’s the Uber classic. Was a bit nervous but tbh it was all there - lower crack thin but not too bad, and the top crux is really good. Probably doesn’t need the peg, though I clipped it all the same!

The Cutter, E4, Burren

Sorry, just one more. This thing just keeps coming at you, with sustained difficulty and quality! Local wad got a piccy of me on it and stuck it on ukc which was nice of him!

Top three sport routes UK

A fairly decent year of sport climbing though felt like a slow start.

Shine On, 8a, the Diamond.

A Petejh masterpiece!!! Had plans to get on the shining but with clips in this, seemed obvious as it would defo be clean. Took 5ish sessions with the go being an all out battle slapping my way through to the final big rest, camping out for ages trying to not worry about final tricky move. Finally felt recovered and blasted up the pumpy pillar, caught the Gaston, hit the jug and then was too pumped to climb the top as I usually did on the dog! Managed to freestyle to the belay pumped out of my mind!!

Luke Dawson reckons it’s the best 8a in the UK so I’ll go with that! Though he also said it was piss, but I imagine stamina 8as are when you are a 9a beast.

Watching Luke destroy The diamond whilst we were working in wales was incredible to see. Especially the day he warmed up on Rub a dubdub (7a), did the beast (8c) 1st rp, got close to onsighting one of the 8a+s, doing it 2nd go, then same on the other 8a+, then onsighting the shining (8a) to warm down.

The Ashes, 7c+, Kilnsey

That headwall is so much fun it should be illegal! That’s about it really. Always thought I’d struggle on this but really loved it.

Cruella Deville/Hidden Sign, 7b, Castell y Gwynt

Flashed one, onsighted the other. Just two fantastic contrasting routes at a brilliant crag done with some good friends and consequently having a right laugh!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Les mysteries de l’ouest, 7b, St Leger

Gave it absolutely everything on this. Even ended up climbing h th e wrong way away from a bolt and having to traverse back left to get back on route. Just brill.

Le voleur du peasenteur, 7c, st leger

Didn’t actually manage this but had a great time getting close and getting really really boxed on our last day in st leger.

Moby dick, 7c, st leger

Had an onsight go but as it was 7c didn’t have full conviction. Fluffed it low down but on going to the top, could defo have given it a good effort. Did it fairly ok next go so feel like I need to get back into tricky sport onsighting.

Top spankings

Les clowns, 7c, st leger.

Fuck a duck! Just desperate! Start isn’t so bad but once you get into those tufas I was in trouble! Then that hard move at 2/3rds! In my defence hadn’t been doing any climbing in the 3 months lead up to the trip but still!

Getting the full bore trad psyche. Who knows why.
Been ill more than I’d like this autumn… covid and then a long lingering cold that I’m still struggling to shake the cough from…

Top non-climbing

All the ace times spent with Flo! From going to see Dr Rubinstein and Blueprint DJs down in London, to all the ace climbing adventures we’ve been on together, via all the nice times doing more normal stuff. Fully feel like I’ve found my one which is exciting!

Lots of cool wildlife sightings this year; otter swimming in the lily ponds at Pembroke (all day he/she was there showing off!)

Pabbay and Mingulay wildlife- basking sharks
Dolphins fishing in the bay
Golden eagle
Puffins

The world is a truly magical place!

Final non-climbing is just getting my life shit together. House is as good as done (will probs always have little projects) work is in a good place - interesting enough, earn enough and flexible enough.

All in all been one of the best years yet I think! Not climbed my all time hardest but just had loads of fun.

Looking forward to reading some more entries- Happy New Year all hope it’s a good one for everybody.

[andy moles]

The Raven, E5, Pabbay.

 I went right a bit as I had seen Andy Moles go this way and the guide makes it look like you step right but apparently it goes direct. Maybe I cheated it, but where I went over the roof was still challenging enough.

Yeah I was left feeling a tiny bit cheated by this given the brilliance of the route (maybe I'll do it again sometime?), I'm pretty sure the SMC guidebook is just wrong. Someone has looked up and assumed the 'hairline crack' or whatever it is in the description is the obvious one on the right and sent the topo line that way, but climbing this feels eliminate with the better holds of Thursday's Setting Sunrise within reach a tiny bit further right. Pretty sure Raven should just go direct.

TSS is near enough just as good. It's not quite in burn-off territory but I was entertained to have an easier time seconding TSS than Bob had leading it, given the gulf in our abilities (which it turns out are inverted when it comes to basic hand jamming  )

Anyway, enjoyed reading the highlights Dunc 

[Duncan campbell]

Thanks!  Likewise to yours!

Bit of a funny one with routes where you can easily transfer from one to another like that, guess just gotta be happy that you did what you thought was right at the time?

[jwi]

Les clowns, 7c, st leger.

Fuck a duck! Just desperate!

But great! There are now many more desperates that awaits in St Léger, what with the downward pressure on grades from new guidebooks.

[spidermonkey09]

Les Clowns is really hard. I could never do the top crux on the link. Need to go back to St Leger!

[shark]

A vintage year for me. Lots of trips to great destinations.

January

Spent 3 weeks with Duncan at Etxauri in the Basque Country. Up to the last minute we half expected a UK or Spanish travel restriction or for one of us to get covid. It was my longest trip away for several years. With harsh grading, stern runouts and mainly vert climbing it’s never going to be popular but we loved the quiet local vibe, the regular whoosh as a gigantic griffin vulture sailed past and the open aspect across the plains to the snow tipped mountains of the Pyrenees

End of Feb

A perfect blue sky day at Stanage Left Hand End with Goat and Roo to keep me company. Worked back right soloing a batch of mega classics VS-E1 with the reassurance of a big pad. Sublime.

Beginning of June

I’d got severe FOMO a few years ago when a Sheffield team including GuyVG plastered pics of a trip to Mingulay all over the web and so when an opportunity came up this year to join a team I signed up despite only knowing one of the team and he was a recent acquaintance. Getting back into it was traumatic that saw me hanging on gear on Peak E2’s and 3’s. I finally regained trad joy on the spectacular 100m Dun Mingulay sea cliff. The schist rock has great friction and the impending headwall had jugs that were so huge you are happy to truck on up placing minimal gear. All the routes we did were outstanding (Hurried Path, Call of the Sea, Voyage of Faith) but Sula at E2 was my favourite. The ambience was pure Treasure Island camped on ridge above a white sandy bay and you could watch basking sharks, seals and diving fulmars. Also got bombed by skuas (bonxies) on a walk in and spotted puffins and a distant golden eagle. We had perfect blue sky weather for 4 magical days but had to leave early as bad weather was coming in so the last day was cut short a bit but I still snuck in three decent short new routes at HS, HVS and E1.

August

5 days in the Pass in scorching weather staying at the lovely Cwm Glas Mawr hut. Got to lead the amazing top pitch of the Skull and managed to lead an excellent soft E5 - Rimsky Korsikov - as well as ground upped up a new E2 to its left. A week later went to Pembroke and had a decent attempt on Darkness at Noon but backed off high up only to find later that I’d missed a crucial wire. The next day Duncan led Silver Shadow E2 at Stackpole which I thought was one of the best routes I’ve ever done.

Oct/Nov

I was smitten with Red River Gorge when I went there three years ago so psyched to go back with a bit more fitness than last time.

Went to lots of different crags and did lots of outstanding routes including Snozberries 12a, Fatal Vision 11c, Banshee 11c, Infidel 11c, Witness the Citrus 11c and Twinkie 12a and Last Rites 12b. However, two other ascents stood out in particular.
Swedish Fish 12a takes a long snaking line linking flakes up an intimidating, impending wall. I found it harder going than Eddie made it look. A couple of good rests but was sapped near the top on a juggy rail. Moved left and got a good sidepull but instantly knew I didn’t have it in me to pull on it and roll over. Scuttled back along the rail *knowing* that was going to make me tireder and I was doomed. Somehow composed myself and must have got something back as then did the move with  fingers almost uncurling on finishing jugs. A five star route and five star experience.
I was not keen to go back to the Solarium as I’d found it unpleasantly crowded on the last trip. Turned out to be the same this time so I sulked. Eddie got on Super Best Friends 5.12a/b. I knew it was going to be a waste of time for me trying as it was far too steep and Eddie fell off on the onsight. However, the only route I was psyched for (Banshee) had a queue so tied on to Super Best Friends. Got to the crux on the flash but then couldn’t even dog the crux!. Pulled past and went to the top. Came down and had black thoughts about my shortcomings - lack of power endurance, inability to shake out and recover on jugs on steep ground and power loss when even vaguely pumped. Eddie redpointed it and Banshee was still occupied so thought I’d see if I could get to the crux again. Couldn’t believe it when I pulled through the crux and then wasn’t even particularly pumped on the headwall. Most unlikely redpoint ever

November

Unexpected trip to Datca arranged at the last minute with Team OG. The main crag was dripping with tufa and chuffed to flash/onsight the classy Datca Rodeo 7b+ milking my chimneying skills but it was touch and go at the top using a baggy hand jam.

Family ticks

Chaperoned my daughter and niece to Athens. Blown away by the Parthenon and Acropolis museum as well as the Roman Agora. Also prior to driving down to Kentucky had a super week seeing the sights in Chicago where Sonia ran the marathon. Also had a nice short trip in the van with Sonia taking in Idwal with a walk around Tryfan.
Ben landed a dream first job where he is able to apply his interest in Bayesian statistics analysing drugs trials, Tommy got a placement at Glaxo for his final masters year in Chemistry, Poppy was over the moon to get into Cambridge to study Human, Social and Political Sciences and Sonia was headhunted into a Programme Director role.
Had some good get togethers at Christmas and New Year and somehow came back from Devon with another border collie.

Spankings

Put in plenty of time on Bens Without, Statement and Cross N’Angry but no real progress on any of them.

[36chambers]

Big psyche everyone. Love this thread.

Top 3 grit
Jason’s Roof 7C+, Crookrise - Only 5 years between my first and second session, small wonder it takes me so long to tick things off the grit list. Was lucky to have some glorious days up there at the start of the year, more please. I also topped it out for the full tick, because why wouldn’t you

Catch Me Outside 7C, FA at Mystery Location - Completely made up with this one. An obvious feature, requiring a very unobvious sequence, which is why I imagine it’s not been claimed before despite being somewhere fairly well travelled. Anyway, it took 3 sessions just to crack the beets and then another 2 to actually do it (all spread across 3 years…). I can’t say where it is just yet as there’s another obvious variation to do, but give me another two years and hopefully it'll get done.

Three More Reps 7B+, Ilkley - Tried it a few times in the past, but couldn’t figure out the top section. So it was great to join Bradders and co. and get the full spray down and get it topped.

Top 3 non grit
Ebola 7C/+, Anston - Tried in the past but could only pull on the pocket a few times because it hurt my palm too much from the aggressive pinky drop. Have since spent loads of time working on my front three open hand, so when I came back this year I was swinging all over that bad boy like there was no tomorrow. Which is convenient as my beta for Ebola involves cutting loose on almost every move #shortylife

Northern territory (low sitter) 7C+, Kyloe Out   - classy moves, classy rock, classy climb.

The Fat Lady Sang 6C, Kyloe Out - I was pleasantly surprised by how great this is. It’s basically a wall climb where you end up smearing your way onto an easy angled slab which manages to feel high without being that bad. Love these kind of problems.

Top 5 Bishop (which itself was a big bucket list destination tick)
Fly Boy Sit 7B - sweet board moves with a committing jump to the lip followed by a nervy mantle.
High Plains Drifter 7A+ - utterly brilliant and although to top section is a path it felt pretty surreal topping out and then sitting on top of such a stupidly massive boulder, and then wondering how to get down.
Seven Spanish Angels 7A - another brilliant classic
Soul Slinger 7C - worst thing in the list, even though it's brilliant.
Pope’s Prow 7A - shambolic top out scenes where I ended up ungracefully on both knees on the scary mantle wondering if this was the end. A 5 star experience.

It was quite the shock going back to the puny boulders in Yorkshire and realising just how puny there are.

Top 3 Fontainebleau
La Vent Dans la Plane 8A - Earmarked this years ago as something to definitely try. Finally got on it in October 2021, spending the first session failing to find a sequence that worked for my reach. A few days later, whilst chilling in the gite, I suddenly had a "betiphany" and went back to find the new sequence worked perfectly. Got all excited but then split a tip 2 goes later... 6 months of impatiently waiting went by and I thankfully managed it first day of the trip. Happy daze.
Pancas Assis 7C - Tried on a stupidly hot day, whilst trying to find a breeze. Which did not exist. Thinking back, this was actually more like a 0 star experience on a 3 star climb... oh well.
Le Calice 7A - Great teams scenes getting up this one. For some reason I remember the post-climb coffee and pastry particularly hitting the spot that day.

Top 3 Albarracin (another bucket list destination)
Zarzamora 7B+(?) - This was my goto climb whenever I thought of Albarracin, having seen it in loads of old videos, and I got it in my head years ago that it would cool to flash it, which is something I rarely care for or try. Anyway, it was naturally busy at that boulder, so I had a quick fondle, was given a quick beta spray down and just cruised it to the top, before I had chance to think myself off. Very satisfying, but a shame it's a gift at 7C. 
Manuchakra 7B+/C - A satisfying one-two move a the top.   
La Fuente 7C - Another perfect board climb which went 3rd go. Might have been on for the flash, if I knew which part of the rail to use. Wish I could climb stuff like this everyday.

Had a great first day there, where I finally completed an arbitrary goal of 7 independent, and new to me, sevens in a day. This had me frantically running around, at the end of the day, trying to find a 7 that was actually a 7. I think I ended up doing 10 on paper in total.

Top 3 heroes/American wads spotted out and about
1) Doylo
2) Carlo Traversi
3) Nina Williams

Top spankings
Thick end of the wedge. Did all the moves in about 10 minutes and almost linked into the stand on my third go, then the sun came out and stopped play. Went home and boasted to all who'd listen about how easy it is, “7C+”, “everything’s piss in the peak“ etc. etc. Another 3 sessions later and I still haven’t done it…

[SA Chris]

Been a funny old year, feels like it's been busy but barely done anything, so will break down into

General Highlights

Led first trad route in about 4 years. Only a VS (Crathes Crack at Vat Burn) , but I made it more challenging by only packing a pair of tight bouldering shoes, and getting mega foot and toe cramp standing on smears fiddling in too much gear.

Finally getting on a small wall down near Floors Craig I spotted last year, and it yielding some better problems than expected.

Getting a ski trip in at Easter. The quagmire of confusing and changing COVID regulations got us tied in knots, but fate played a hand when a great deal came up on Thursday lunchtime for a week in St Anton, cue frenetic packing (bless my wife's organised mind) sorting testing etc. to get down to Edinburgh for  very early flight. Great resort, good snow, kids got on really well, with lessons and really enjoyed it. Downsides were me losing half a pole (damn flicklocks) off piste as far as we could get from base, and me busting a binding at lunchtime on the last day. I'll take that yang.

Half Marathon PB at Crathes. I though I was past any of this, with previous PB back in 2018, but it all came together on the day, great course, ideal weather, no injuries and a decent taper plus new sneaks. Gave me some psyche to try a few more next year.

A few early mornings of glorious surf in Tenerife. Early morning jog past the walking wounded of Playas Americans of the night before, bath like water, nice mellow swells, chilled vibes and sun rising over Mt Teide and getting out the water in time for an easy jog home for breakfast with the family.

Son Kyle progressing as a climber. Great to see his progress over the year, and getting braver and improving technically. Still got a build like he's made of pipecleaners, but that's not stopped him yet.

Daughter progressing as a swimmer, might make a surfer of her yet.

Great days walking in the hills with the kids, probably Scheihallion in the late afternoon, a big day out on Lochnagar and Meall Nan Tarmachan being the best.

New job meaning more time at home and everything being a bit less frenetic than before.

General Lowlights

First pulley injury in about 15 years, forgotten what a pain they are.

COVID finally getting me. I guess I was fortunate, only took about 6 weeks to get over it, but tinnitus is still not subsiding and keeps me awake.

Finally coming up with a workable sequence for crux of project, then knackering finger and not getting back on it.

Horror day doing Tom Buidhe and Tolmont from Clova. detour due to storm damage in forest, rain, midges, and hack through heather and peat hags at the end. 22km in total. Kids did well though, only lost it with the midges, which is understandable. Route not recommended.

Illuminator 15 mile night race. I loved this a few years ago, so after much swithering entered it again. Weather was way worse than forecast, I had wrong clothes so was too hot and soaking wet, my glasses were wet the whole time (forgot to pack contacts) and they made a detour due to an aggressive capercaillie which extended the race to 25.5 km. And I stacked on slippery rocks near the end and ripped up knees and hands. PB, but in hindsight not worth it. Some of the long flat sections just seemed to stretch on forever, and I didn't enjoy it much at all.

Losing mates, and brother not getting better. This shit sucks.

Well done on the big things everyone achieved, and commiserations on those you didn't. Roll on 2023.

[spalmer]

Great thread!

Top three boulder problems, UK

Left-hand Man (7B+), Secret Garden
First tried this when I moved to Sheffield and got massively shut down, then a couple of years ago I managed to figure out some unconventional beta which suited me, got all excited then hurt my back and Covid meant I forgot about it.

Fast forward to January this year, perfect Peak day, knock off work early and head out. Wife and baby join on the drive out to watch the sunset from Over Owler Tor. Crag was empty, I warmed up then did it first try of the day in the twilight while my wife cheered me on from the slope below as I topped out. It’s a fantastic, varied problem which I was really glad to do having previously written it off. This was also the first hard climb for me since becoming a dad so doubly meaningful.

Infinite Suspense (7C+), Tideswell Dale
Another after work session with the family on a beautiful Friday evening, right before driving down to Cornwall the next day for a week’s holiday. Spring was very much in the air with birds singing, wonderful light etc. The problem itself is great, one of the best I’ve done on lime so far.

Pinch Punch (7C), Bradley Edge and Quarry
Easter weekend, and my first ‘free’ weekend without baby duties. Amazing moves on fantastic rock, the last problem of a cool weekend spent with friends. Also felt like I had to do it then as the grit season was coming to an end (or possibly no more free time before heading off for the summer).

Top three boulder problems, abroad

All three problems from a month long trip to the Åland Islands.

Supermartikainen (7C), Grottan
I did the stand on a trip in 2016, but the lower start was way beyond me then. First day on the island this trip, and I quickly did the moves to the lower start in the morning, but kept coming off on a low percentage blind heal move. It was then my wife’s turn to climb, so took a break and came back in the afternoon. Repeat as previously, frustration growing. Already convinced myself I would need to come back, falling off lower and lower on the easier moves. Time to go home, one last go. Somehow I got through the lower moves, the heel didn’t slip and I managed to drag myself up the 6C+ stand. Mega happy. Great start to an amazing trip. It also proved the concept of switching baby care and climbing which set us up for the rest of the trip. I’ve also wanted to do this problem for ages.

Iron Duke (7C+), South Grottan
New area developed recently, with this problem starting halfway through a roof. Think I got an early repeat, so there wasn’t much in the way of video beta, leading to a satisfying puzzle which took a couple sessions to figure out, one of which took place over a very social Finnish bank holiday weekend, pretty much the only time we bumped into other climbers on the trip. Climbed it the same day my wife climbed her first ever multi session problem, so we both went home happy.

Tommi's Roof (7B+), Soltuna
Probably the best roof problem on the island (which is known for roofs!). After finishing off another project the previous day, we had a couple days left of the trip so got to explore some new areas which felt like a massive bonus. Found some creative beta to unlock this one, which was very satisfying.

[Thomnomnom]

Agreed, this is an excellent thread! I was lucky enough to have an amazing year climbing both in Scotland and on a three month trip to Scandinavia. Highlights:

Top five boulder problems, Scotland

The Essence (7B+, Torridon)
Came with the highest expectations and they were met. Amazing and fun session working it out from the stand, pushing one move higher every go. Went from the sit to “work out the moves” insisting to everyone that I’d drop off if I got through. Got through, and just carried on and sent! One of the best I’ve done in Scotland full stop.
Coastess (7C, Primrose Bay)
Tried a bit in 2021 after Ted made the FA and found it hard and scary - an intimidating line with an intimidating sequence. Planned a big sesh with pals and sussed it on the rope beforehand, realising that I could definitely do it and that bringing pads and conditions together again might be a challenge. Felt the pressure, but calmed the nerves and got it done!
Simple Jack (7C, Rispond)
Some of the best rock quality I have climbed on in the UK - Brionesque. Tried a lot in 2021 (maybe five sessions?) and failed, despite getting close. Rispond is a long trek from anywhere, so to make it back this year and do it felt great.
Vanguard (7B+, Glen Doll)
A mission! An underdocumented gem hidden high in the Angus hills. The long approach was made excessively arduous due to downed trees completely covering the path. Took about 2.5 hours to get up there with two pads, which were barely enough to get up without a spot. Punted the top and began dreading the return trip with failure looming - really didn’t want to have to come back for this one!
If Not Now (7B, Strathrusdale)
Another underdocumented problem that I have wanted to check out for so long. Randomly bumped into Gaz in Sheigra, got a pin, and sought it out a few days later. Very satisfying!

Top five boulder problems, abroad
Blue Skies (7C+/8A, Lofoten/Norway)
Absolutely beautiful on every scale, from the grain to the block to the landscape. Originally graded 8A+, “7C+ int county” according to Dan Varian, I expected it to be pretty hard, which it did indeed feel on the first session. Imagine my surprise when I floated up it first try on the second sesh. In retrospect, it may have felt “easy” because it kind of is, rather than any floaty magic. But it was a brilliant moment. No clue on the real grade!
Old Smugglers (7C+, Hell/Norway)
Hell is a popular conglomerate sport crag outside of Trondheim with a handful of drop-off boulders at the bottom end. Nothing aesthetic about this one, but great movement and sometimes that’s what bouldering is all about.
Lynx (8A, Vingsand/Norway)
Another hard drop-off. This represented a level-up for me, powerful roof climbing. My original beta led to me dropping the last droppable move - probably the hardest sequence I’ve ever linked even without sending. Realised there was a better method, pushed our leaving date back (twice?) for another chance to try. Finally came back second day on in a huge storm (it’s a permadry cave), dropped the last hard move again. Completely exhausted, thought I stood no chance, and then somehow did it. A complete and utter epic.
Supermartikainen (7C, Åland/Finland)
Åland was the first proper stop of the Scandinavia trip and the first place I realised I could probably climb a bit harder than I expected. The best rock quality on Supermartikainen, brilliant moves and an absolute sweaty battle on the send. Sam (see above) shouted me on (“Fight it!”) as I did indeed fight my way up it!
Sultan Of Swing (7B+, Juniskär/Sweden)
Just a perfect day by the sea, belaying my partner as she cruised up perfect granite routes in the morning and then checking out the boulders in the afternoon. This amazing problem would fit in at any Ticino crag and features a powerful, anti-style slap that I really didn't expect to link in a session, and knew I wasn't coming back to.

[turnipturned]

Did you get your Krafty ascent on film Dan? I'd be very interested to see it if so as always thought it looked amazing but the landing looked a bit shonky.

I didn't but there is a video of Olly doing it.

[GazM]

Great that If Not Now made the list Thom. You've had a hell of a year!

Very jealous about your time in Scandinavia, and CSL's trip to Lofoten up the thread. Would absolutely love to spend time in that part of the world but getting there from the Highlands looks so time consuming, and time is the one thing I don't have!

[Johnny Brown]

Great psyche as always!

2022 got off to a bad start. I spent two days before Xmas last year stuck on the floor pissing in a bottle due to a back spasm, then my wife badly broke her ankle between Xmas and New Year. Main win for the year is steady rehab for both.

Best boulders
Highline at Stanage a few weeks back was the highlight of the year. Bizarrely fell off the topout twice in the past (I think it's safe to say no one has done Big Air more than me), then a friend wanted to try it and despite being resigned to my shit form I banged it out in three goes. Rebooted my attitude quicksmart.
Otherwise struggling to remember anything noteworthy, didn't boulder beyond the Peak except for one day at the 'Cliff in summer. Lots of fun days out with good friends though 

Best trad routes
Aura/ Pinaclissima, Craig Yr Ysfa. Landed a dream gig working early shifts tagging auks at South Stack (6-9 for a full day's pay  ), and got a few great days out tradding after cafe breakfasts. This was the most memorable, I'd wanted to get up here for years and it didn't disappoint. Perfect weather, sun but not too hot, awesome location more reminiscent of Scotland, super dry rock, great climbing. Let Andy lead the first which is easier than it looks, I got the second which is the opposite and clearly remember thinking 'shit it's a good job I'm good at this'.
The Big Groove, Gogarth.
Andy had never done a route on main cliff due to intimidation. I talked him into this on the basis that it was fine, I'd done it twice etc. I did the first pitch, Andy got established on the second.. and ground to a halt. Turns out the crux has fallen off. I took over and lhad to deal, leading a 65m pitch starting up a variant to the left then swinging back right. Not E3. It is of course stuff like this which is exactly why I love main cliff.
Godzilla, Rhoscloyn. Bottled this intimidating line in June, was back for a fun 40th weekend in Oct (the youngest of our crew) and stepped up only to find it absolutely piss. Had just seconded Warpath by the skin of my teeth and was utterly confused by the grades. A great romp, then after steak and chips we then drank beer, got stoned and talked shit in a car park before dossing in vans - great we're all still dirtbags at heart.
Flaky Wall/ Debauchery/ Darius High Tor. Not enough trad this year but another great day out with Jase.

Best sport route
Barely clipped a bolt, one evening at the Cornice and a couple of hours at Breakwater Quarry.

Best mini-mountain days
Another year without any proper winter climbing, but the Downfall in December was a good morning. A couple of weeks earlier my spirit was being crushed by the weather but I spotted a possibility on the webcams. Had an unreal day wandering Kinder above a sea of cloud lapping at the plateau. As Beatty wrote, it's a summer hill but a winter mountain.

Top spankings
Three sessions on My Orange, blew my chance on session two, then it got too hot, then eight months later it felt nails. Doesn't really count though, I'm always psyched to have possibilities to do new hard problems locally.

Other stuff.
Another great year hobby-wise, highlights being buying a decent micro lathe in Dec, which opens all sorts of doors for making stuff and am kicking myself for not getting one earlier, getting full Nomarski DIC for my microscope, and the 14" self-built dob continues to delight, particularly with new 20mm 100^o eyepiece. Also restored a theodolite and did a lot of reading and thinking about stone age astronomy. Bought and used new snowboard and gravel bike, rediscovered skateboarding at Eyam pump track (thanks Lagers!).
Family and business all in a good place, did some paid photography and mood better than it has been. Seem like the therapy was worthwhile.

[fatneck]

Not done a huge amount of bouldering this year and as usual, no trad or sport helming was undertaken.

Had bad elbows for a lot of it, rotator cuff issues for some of it and had almost all of the summer off due to heat / lack of psyche and work stress.

Did plenty of running, though nothing long this year and did plenty of fishing. Got psyched on coarse fishing again and even entered a few matches...

Top three boulder experiences, UK

• Plumstone Arete - Plumstone Mountain - Fantastic problem in a great spot and very interesting rock. Part of a 4 day tour of Pembs bouldering with my bestie.
• Hull Slab - Kay Nest - a block rather than an individual problem. Same as above really - great rock and location (1hr+ walk in) and went with the family so great company!
• Dovestones / Jacksons Ridge - a surprisingly large amount of stuff to do here in a great, quiet location. Went twice this year and plenty to go back for.

Top new climbing experience in Font

Went as a family for the first time having had to cancel three trips due to Covid in the last few years. Absolute opposite to any other trip I've been on in terms of weather (20 degrees every day), style (breakfast followed by crag followed by lunch in the garden at the gite with wine followed by a siesta followed by an evening climb) and outcome (hardest thing I did was 6a+ but went to loads of new crags and everyone climbed every day)!

Top three spankings

• North Wales - didn't climb there once this year which is a 25 year first
• Limestone - it's still shit
• Roofs - as I've got older and had to rely on technique more, I've found myself gravitating to slabs and walls which means I've got shitter at roofs / anything steep. Need to address this in 2023 without getting injured

Top other life shizzle

• Became a grandad for the second time - a boy this time so I've now got one of each. Such a different experience and fills me with joy
• Managed to run the charity I work for without a CEO for 6 months which was both very stressful and incredibly rewarding
• Found myself increasingly grateful for the life I'm able to lead, and the people in it, especially in light of the state of the country and the average persons finances at the moment

[Coops_13]

Top five boulder problems, Colorado

• Tangerine Man V8, Lincoln Lake - Amazing boulder done with my visiting British friends accompanied by a lot of psyche
• Kryptonite V8, Lincoln Lake - Mega boulder that I had to work hard for
• Equitas V7, Area D, Mt Evans - Solid line in a perfect position
• Live by the Sword, Die by the Sword V8, Wild Basin - Bit of effort to find but so worth it
• Edging Edgio V8, Flatirons - Perfect moves with a huge swing to hold

Top three boulder problems, Bishop

• Every Color you Are V6 - A very unexpected tick for an out of shape boulderer
• The Gleaner V6 - Great movement on this one
• Strength in Numbers V5 - Such a perfect length for a boulder

Top spankings

• Injuries, again. Spent first part of year rehabbing a weird hand injury from Nov 2021 to reach some good form for the summer. Rupture of pinky pulley in October prevented me from really getting into the Front Range projects so far
• Font / Winter weight. Had a day in Font after too much eating and drinking in the UK

Top non-climbing

• Had a brilliant wedding celebration in August with the perfect balance of seeing family, friends and crushing with mates who had come over for it. Great to give them the tour.

[reeve]

Update:

Top spankings

• Marrowfat (7a), Froggatt. ThreeFour sessions in. Still Now I can’t do one two of the moves.

[remus]

Update:

Top spankings

• Marrowfat (7a), Froggatt. ThreeFour sessions in. Still Now I can’t do one two of the moves.

You've got me worried now, that's a rare Bonjoy problem that didn't feel too bad for the grade. I feel like I must have started in the wrong place now 😅

[Duncan campbell]

Update:

Top spankings

• Marrowfat (7a), Froggatt. ThreeFour sessions in. Still Now I can’t do one two of the moves.

Gotta love a bit of regression!! Sure you’ll slink your way up it soon Reeve!

[reeve]

You've got me worried now, that's a rare Bonjoy problem that didn't feel too bad for the grade. I feel like I must have started in the wrong place now 😅
[/quote]

Although I'd love to believe that the only reason I can't do it is because I'm making life too difficult for myself, it's not even the start which I find the hardest!

Gotta love a bit of regression!! Sure you’ll slink your way up it soon Reeve!

This one's lining itself up for Top Spankings 2023

[Yoof]

Happy new year all, have enjoyed reading these

Best 5 non-FA experiences
Lily goes left -- Great fun line. Nice to do something tricky on big holds. Bon scenes.
Ultimate Warrior -- Great line, antistyle/also fits me quite well. Didn't think I'd get up it when I first looked at it. Bruised fingertips for a week. Silly day.
Awesome Shed -- Felt strong after a very stressful time in work. Also previously assumed it was impossible for years because noone did it.
Vinegarete -- Ridiclous start to the year. Being filmed is weird. It's weirder when you lose your trousers. Nice to feel strong after injury. Also good not to be taken by the sea/ground.
Fish Pie -- Appropriate challenge. Nice time with friends

Best 5 FA experiences (max 1 per crag)
Annie Lloyd -- Best and hardest (but because of tech not power) line at a one in a lifetime find of a crag, basically everything there is top quality. Lovely chill day out with a mate, so many good times and lines at this crag.
Feeding Frenzy -- Immense wall, Cool blankness, exploration, good sesh. Again, times and lines here were ace.
Stopwatch -- Expected an easy shit thing, really enjoyed myself and tried hard. And made it home in time for dinner.
Throwing Sheeps -- A fun day out sampling some gorgeous rock. Two wild moves.
Cuddly Jumper -- Wonderful silly end to the day. Nice my mate didn't flash it. :p

Funky climbing times
Herring Bone -- How many UK boulder problems spend ~30 moves on a prow, but have a no hands rest on a slab half way up?! Ridiculous!
Penwaig Nefyn Isel -- Suffer fest to get the FA. Pumped calves. Unable to move. Most inelegant pirouette ever. Sketchy (but wired) toupout in the rain.
Real Trooper -- Lol. Shit eliminate. Hard moves. Mantelly suffering.
Messiah/Very Naughty Boy -- Psyche for low-quality additions with ridiculous moves.

Stuff not finished, but psyche is high
High Society -- Expected to find it impossible, enjoyed it a lot
Diesel Power -- I DID THE MOVE!!!

Other
Life's been pretty good this year
Enjoyed dancing a bit
Work's going pretty well
Etc.

[fatneck]

Top three spankings

North Wales - didn't climb there once this year which is a 25 year first

Just been pointed out that I did go climbing with Fiend in North Wales last year so thought I'd rectify here to avoid a puntering... 

[BrutusTheBear]

Great to read these as ever..  A bit of roller coaster year for me, with a bout of tick induced illness that knocked me for 6 but I have been getting out regularly, locally, before and after that beavering away at new projects and repeats. A big theme in my climbing bouldering this year has been returning to the scene of previous spankings and showing them pebbles who's boss (mostly).

Top 3 Boulder FAs

Shanty Town 7b+ - Lynmouth East - Exmoor - Extended finish to Tom Newberry's Cake Vs Pie (7b+) on the Slopey Traverse boulder.  Exquisite frictionless sloper shuffling that continues around the arete where CvP exits via a mantel.  Adds several hard moves so could be 7c although the top out is easier if you get to it.  Opens up the possibility of a full circumnavigation. I had fallen off the last move several times at the start of June and then I got really poorly with what turned out to be Lyme's Disease.  Antibiotics and loads of rest soon had me feeling more human, satisfying to recover and top this one out at the end of July.

Threshold Apprehension 7c - Lynmouth East - Exmoor - RL to left traverse of the obvious lip into arete/ groove feature on the 'Jammed Log' boulder.  Unlikely to be repeated anytime soon, this bloc usually sports a green beard of algae/seaweed that is permanently wet and rarely dries out.  The hot dry summers days we had this summer and a neap tide dried it out and I was able to scrub the lip clean(ish).  Desperate sloper shuffling seemed to be the theme of my summer. On last inspection the green beard is back.

The Mule 6c+ - Lynmouth West - Exmoor - Probably the pick of the bunch, a big reach out through a roof off a 'hanging plinth' into a tricky top out up onto a high but steady slab.  Avoids the crux of Ruby's - Eye of the Storm 7b.  A grand day out prospecting with some friends.


Top 3 Boulders UK

Cake Vs Pie 7b+ - Lynmouth East - Exmoor - Little Tom's slopey test piece has been spanking me for years.  This year I decided I wouldn't continue to be spanked and would persevere until success.  Lots of sessions!  Initially the slopers felt horrendous but gradually my knowledge of the sparse features on the lip and my contact strength improved.  I used this new found sloper form to climb 2 of the FAs above.

Underdog 7a - The woody area that shall not be mentioned - Dartmoor - Another return match that turned out good.  A beautiful spring day with most of the crew up at Interstellar, I sidled off to do a circuit of less bold stuff in the vicinity.  Ticked a load of new stuff off, this one sits on a terrace and has a slightly intimidating drop off behind it, you'd be really unlucky to bounce off the terrace but it feels exposed nonetheless.  Big move up an arete into an airy top out, great stuff.

Rhododendron Stick Vomit 5+  - Lynmouth West - Exmoor - Has to be slab in there somewhere!  A group of South Shire dwellers made the trip up north with the main objective being Anarchy Arete (which was amazing as ever).  This problem sits just seaward of AA, the boulder has funky quartz stripes running though it.  Alas none of the stripes contain holds. This is classic terrifying holdless padding on nothings until you can, with much relief, grab the top. More like 6b!

Fontainebleau
The only time I climbed outside of Devon and Cornwall in '22.  I had 9 days in Font with family in August, it was hot!  Haven't been for many years, so aside from the clearly not ideal conditions I was very happy to be climbing in the forest again and to introduce it to my wildlings.  Early starts and easy circuits mainly, Sky Blue at Rocher Canon was a definite highlight and eased me into things/ hollowed out my ego.  Managed a few 7s here and there.  Swam in the river every day, had a grand day out at Disneyland.  Would definitely go again in the summer.

Sandbags Spankings

Corridors of Power 7c - Hartland Quay - Culm Coast.  Over a decade of being spanked by this thing now.  The sit start to this/ Supercede has alluded me throughout.  This year I finally worked out a way to do the start, unfortunately 6 hand movements isn't an ideal lead into the continued power endurance needed to complete it!  Towards the end of summer I decided to put some work into doing it the harder way reducing the start to 1 move rather than 6.  Really helped to watch someone a similar size to me who finds the sitter easy.  Some adjustments to body position and movement suddenly I could do the move.  Still haven't linked it though!

Mustang 6c - Trewortha Tor - Bodmin Moor.  I try every visit, I have had both hands on top.  Bloody thing has put hole in my finger several times.

Orphan 6b - Smallacombe - Dartmoor.  Great big sandbag!  Good though.  Maybe session 3?

Top gigs
Seemed an age since I last went to a live venue.  This year I took my son to Torbay to see Napalm Death and my wife to see NIN at the Eden Project.

[Will Hunt]

Looking back, this year seems to have been a bit of a shit show. Whenever I climbed my way into some semblance of form I was quickly shut down by illness, heat, skin, or a stag do hangover. I did publish a guidebook though and, even if it doesn't become a renowned bestseller, I'm proud of it. It's no Cheshire and Merseyside Sandstone, but given its size, breadth, and in the context of other select guides I think we did a really good job.

It has left something of a void in my life which I have filled with video games and reading. Maybe that's something to address in the new year.


Bouldering

Jerry's Arete, 7B, Bridestones
A day out with Jim, Sophie, and Matt. I was clearly in no state to get up this, being both weak and pathetic, but Jim's beta made it possible. It was not without a fight. I did battle with the scrittly finish once or twice and fell off completely spent: all-over total-body exhaustion, panting on the pads. Had a long old rest then despatched - thank fuck!


Tall Toad, 6C/+, Ruin Bank Woods
The best bouldering experience of the year. I'd seen a photo of one of Jack Hustler's mates abseiling this in his trainers but couldn't place it. It looked out there! I must have seen it in the flesh at it at one time or another, as I think I've seen all the rock in the woods now, but couldn’t think where it might be. I set off into the Woods one spring evening armed with a pad and a rope and came across it on the Harden side of the Main Tower. Tall Toad is a leaning ship's-prow of an arete, beginning with a keel of rock that rises (with a funky square sticky-out pinch crimp) to a slabby headwall. It is large and it is sensational. I gave it a quick brush on abseil and practiced the moves to turn the lip at about half-height. These were OK, but seemed very sequency and would be unpleasant to drop with only one pad and no spotter. Then down to the bottom to get stuck into the crux first few moves. These turned out to be quite testing. Step on off the deck and make a deadpoint throw to the pinch-crimp block, move the feet and launch with as many fingers as you dare and hook them into a sideways pocket in the steepest part of the roof. Hold the swing and you're free to yard up to the mid-height rail on the lip of the overhang where the sequence to get established on the lip can play out.

My god, this felt good. To be in those woods, just around the corner from home, and to find such treasure that barely anybody knows or cares about, and for it to be So. Fucking. Good. Pure nectar.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cbf7vtgDl5C/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=


Peter Pan, 7B, Rocher du Mauvais Passage
I've wanted to do this since seeing Font Emotions as a teenager. Moon-kicking glory. I was nearly thwarted when, on landing the finishing hold, a Mexican began shouting "CAMPUS CAMPUS" so I duly did. When I'd landed on the floor he said "Oh, no, I think the word is 'match'", so I had to do it again.

The Font trip was good. Kids came home to the gite every day filthy and exhausted, and my wife had a decent time too.

 

Trad

I did a decent amount of trad (for me) this year. I always start low on confidence and crawl my way up through the grades from HVS to wherever I get to before the season closes. This year I started early with a day at Anglezarke in February and had some brilliant onsight experiences. I eventually did some quick E5 headpoints (Dragonslayer at Eavestone, Beyond the Fringe at Ilkley, and Stone the Crows at Crow Crag, Brimham), however these all left me a little cold. After figuring out the moves and gear they felt like complete formalities, nothing like Desert Island Arete last year which very much could have gone either way. With these, I knew they would go easily before I even set off, there was almost no point in actually leading them. Beyond the Fringe was bordering on boring. This left me hungry for onsight attempts at Wellington Crack, Left Wall (Brimham), and maybe a post-clean ground-up of Genesis at Eavestone; alas, the season ended before I could get there.


The Golden Tower, E2, Anglezarke
A sunny February day. Egged on by Fiend. My arms got pumped senseless and I arrived just shy of the top in a questionable state. My second later found a crucial undercut but, missing this, I ended up doing some 6a Malham-esque sidepulling tech and just about hung on to get my hands on the top - which was generously festooned with gravel that I had to mantel through. That's Lancashire!


Eliminate 1, E1, Helsby
This was more Type 2 fun than Type 1. I was quite scared the whole way up as I didn't believe any of the gear would hold, except maybe the distant spike way off to the right. You get to the end of the traverse and your only escape is up a barrelling shield of smooth, holdless sandstone. After sweeping the dust off with your hands, you must commit to a palms down mantel on a small ledge while praying to Kirkus that you don't overbalance back into the void behind you. Sheer terror. Also enjoyable that day were Crumpet Crack (I still have the scar) and Golden Pillar.
 

The Whole of Chimney Buttress at Wilton One but Particularly Max, E3, Wilton One
Guidebooking had taken me to the Wiltons before but never to Wilton One unfortunately. I had a day there this year and now I'm ravenous for more. After doing Cameo we set about Chimney Buttress and did Central Route and Paradox, which were both sublime, before I plucked up the courage to give Max a go. Pumpy routes are not normally in my repertoire but, this being late August, I had some form. What I'm most pleased with is that I climbed it really well. No dithering, no doubting. I got the gear in fast and trusted it, climbing fast when I needed to. It was a breeze. And when I got to the top the starlings on the phone wire burst into raucous applause. Can't wait for Supercrack, Wilton Wall, Master Spy, Constable's etc etc etc.

 
Sport

For a while I have been psyched to get on longer routes and more exposed routes, but have had something of a mental block around this. This year I took a big step forward. It seems really silly, but starting on the floor of Gordale and climbing to the top of the Cave Route wall had been an ambition of mine. To do it and not get scared was just great.


Free and Easy, 7c, Malham
I was annoyed at this one. I'd tried it the year before and got wigged out by all the old bolts and fixed static. Then it took another few sessions this year to figure out the crux, which was baffling until a crucial foothold made itself known, and to find it in decent conditions. But wow! On the eventual go I got through the crux but then started to numb out. I paused on a two-finger fragmentary blade of limestone and coaxed life back into my fingers. This allowed me to carry on and I just about scraped through the final hard move to a big sidepull just shy of the ledge. I paused here to de-pump before the final moves onto the belay and at that moment a ray of light shone through the clouds and struck the wall where I was. I was illuminated. Once again, the kind hand of destiny had given me grace. God lives at Malham.


Tremelo, 7c, Malham
I loved this in part because it went down quickly and gave my ego a lift, and in part because it's a brilliant route in its own right.  It's basically Space Race but a notch harder. A crescendo of a first half, then a bomber kneebar, and a last move to reach the Yosemite Wall belay that never seems a given!


Cave Route Right-hand, 7b+, Gordale
It's puntery I know, but I've wanted to do a big route in Gordale for ages. Forget that you're a climber for a minute and think of that wall in that place. You are like an insect standing in the nave of Notre Dame. Towering walls wrought of stone; flying buttresses; gothic arches; gargoyles leering from the shadows. Looking up at this wall, to think that humans can climb it is incredible in the most literal sense - it is a wall that reminds you of how literally awesome rock climbing is.

OK, now you can remember you're a climber again. Despite the lowly grade, this was one of the biggest fights I've ever had. It was late in the season, we ought not to have been there; the wind howled through the gorge, whipping the drizzle into a frenzied spin-cycle. I had a dogging go to figure out the moves and get the clips in and then I went for it. I knew I wouldn't get to the top but maybe I'd learn the moves some more. By some miracle I did the crux, despite getting it all so completely and horrifically wrong. I found myself in the hands-off niche and lectured myself on what a great climber I am, a natural talent, a real Jerry Moffatt. I was going to need to believe.

I fucked it up as soon as I left the rest and climbed back down for another lecture. Next time, I got it right and found myself at the kneebar rest below the peg pockets, where I found to my dismay that the kneepad I was wearing blocked me from making full use of the rest. I was in trouble now. I shook for as long as I could manage then delved into the pockets above. As I neared salvation I threw for the last hold in the sequence. I fell off, but I didn't fall off. I don't know how to better describe it. I was in the process of falling off but my hands made contact with the next hold and my fingers somehow gave their last newtons of force to allow my other hand to find a jug. At some point I'd started to scream. Once ensconced in the final rest I readied myself for the easy groove to the ledge. Such a mess was I in that this didn't go easily until, with one last elevator-doors move, my fingers piano-played at full stretch into the finishing jugs of the cave and I arrived at the top of the Cave Route wall.

 

New

Only a very tiny handful of new things this year. And only Wild Geese (E1) on the Main Tower of Ruin Bank Woods worth the mention.



Spankings

Stu's Roof Left-hand, 7B+, Almscliff
I ended up at the Cliff for a few sessions and tried this again. I didn't do it, dropping it (again) far too high. But I don't really care because I've accepted that I'll never climb this but it's a good benchmark. When the connies were good I was destroying those holds which was a good sign of form.

Man with a Gun, 9a+, Kilnsey
I climbed myself into decent form on this. Then split a tip just as I was making progress. Then it got stinkingly hot. Fuck Kilnsey!

Vorsprung Durch Technik, 7c+, Yew Cogar
Nearly knocked this off in a session but, you guessed it, I gave myself a nice flapper on it. Fucking Yew Cogar.

Orange Crush, 8C, Bickerton
I did it but fucking hell Jesus fuck this is hard.