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Sharkathon 2023 (Read 18344 times)

dunnyg

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#150 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 20, 2023, 11:06:17 pm
Smashing it Duncan!

20
20 min walk and some shoulder mob and stretching.

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#151 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 21, 2023, 05:20:30 pm
Day 20
40 mins cycle
5 hours walking
A few press-ups

Day 21
Couple of hours walking in The Peak looking at cool stuff with the boy in the morning.
Couple of hours easy bouldering on grit in the afternoon.

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#152 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 21, 2023, 08:14:01 pm
19 - 30 minute walk plus some press-ups, pull ups, core exercises and stretch.

20 - an hour of walk/run with the toddler on the bike 

21 - feeling mentally really crap but managed to battle with myself and the kids to go out climbing and enjoy the weather - except that we got 15 minutes from home and the car broke down. Went for a local walk for an hour with with the kids then ran 4k in -1 just to try and sort  my head out. Husband was a star and managed to get the car fixed so tomorrow we try again....

SA Chris

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#153 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 21, 2023, 10:22:16 pm
19th - bit of fingerboarding, some press ups, some kettlebells. No running , pavements still iced, can't get up the drive.
20th - not a lot. Some pressups, spent most of evening taking apart one small bed and replacing it with a bigger bed. Bloody kids. Tweaked shoulder trying to get mattress up awkward flight of stairs. I think contorted Allen key work didn't help.
21st - wall session. a few new things up, grading a shambles. Managed a prob I've been trying by lanking it, which shoulder didn't like one bit. 

dunnyg

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#154 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 21, 2023, 10:33:41 pm
21
Went to shipley glen for a pootle, warmed up on handfull of easies then joined a friend on on monkey business (7A?), and did it fairly quickly. Probably not ideal for the shoulder but great to be out (in the fog), and good to get on this. Meant to get on it ages ago. Yay, rock!

lagerstarfish

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#155 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 22, 2023, 07:25:00 am
Day 21...
...Couple of hours easy bouldering on grit in the afternoon.

As far as I can work out, this was my first time on rock in 4 months

My skin seems to agree with this estimate


mrjonathanr

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#156 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 22, 2023, 10:15:53 am
Stunning pic. I can feel the hot aches from here.

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#157 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 22, 2023, 07:38:08 pm
22 - A DAY OUT CLIMBING!!!! ON ROCK AND EVERYTHING! Even managed to battle the fear of slippy feet and trust the smears once or twice.

dunnyg

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#158 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 22, 2023, 10:21:22 pm
22.
4 km run. Stretching and shoulder mobility. Should have taken it easier at Shipley!

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#159 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 22, 2023, 10:35:31 pm
22 - shoulder a bit fucked from wall session. 13km run while daughter at swimming training, with more vert than my legs like.

lagerstarfish

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#160 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 09:03:25 am
Day 22

couple of hours carrying, sawing and chopping firewood

AJM

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#161 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 09:38:25 am
Quote from: AJM
31st - good wall session, ticked some projects
1st - leg rehab and stretching
2nd - glorious winter sunshine on Portland. A handful of routes to 6b+ and a general family faff day.
3rd - inset day for the lad so I took the day off and we went to the wall - another good session, off the last move of a project.
4th - back to work, 3.5 mile round trip walk and rows and pushups in the evening
5th - 4 mile round trip to work via nursery, evening stretching
6th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
7th - busy day out with the kids, walking carrying lugging etc. Then a few sets of pushups, bodyweight squats and some stretching
8th - wall, ticked a project. A big family faff trip.
9th - rows and pushups, I think
10th - short fingerboard, I think
11th - about 2 miles to and fro work (a bit of bus assistance due to rain)
12th - rehab, I think
13th - stretching
14th - short fingerboard session

15th - really solid rehab and stretching session
16th - stretching, rehab, foot elevated pushups
17th - fingerboard. Managed to get back on the 8mm edges, albeit only at bodyweight (I did get to 4s with bw+6, so actually more promising than I had expected). Off my previous bests by some way (I haven’t weighed myself recently, so uncertain exactly how much), but the recruitment is building back up.
18th - 3.5mile walk to and fro work; MrsAJMs birthday so otherwise nothing
19th - 1.7mile walk to work. Short stretching session in the evening.
20th - short rehab, stretching and pushups session. Varied the hand position on the pushups to try to make them a bit tougher.
21st - walking round durdle door in glorious winter sunshine.
22nd - fingerboard. Bodyweight on the 8mm edges again.

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#162 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 09:46:26 am
19 - walking, general maintenance stuff.
20 - few easy problems at scout hut. Pint at packhorse inn (now open again!)
21 - day out at scout. beautiful weather.
22 - dog walk

back on the fingerboarding this week.

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#163 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 11:00:57 am
19 - FUN: 52 mins stretching at the gym listening to awesome jungle // EXERCISE: Rest of the gym session.
20 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk.
21 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk in 5-10 min chunks recceing quarries.
22 - EXERCISE: 3 hours freezing cold easy bouldering at Harland Edge. Reinjured already-sensitive elbow on a couple of locky moves. Utterly demoralised as I'd been making progress over December and had been relying on regular and varied wall visits to meet people and have some form of social life.

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#164 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 12:31:03 pm
I've not been posting much, had other things on my mind. Been training and climbing a lot though, enjoying the board, calisthenics, circuits and the odd bit of grit. Did Jason's Mono last Tuesday, I think probably the hardest move I've ever done outdoors? Anyway was nice.

Yesterday I did a couple of hours of easier bouldering, then 3x10 legs elevated ring rows (slow and controlled, they felt bloody hard), 3x10 wide grip pullups, 3x10 narrow grip pullups.

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#165 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 05:04:09 pm
19 - FUN: 52 mins stretching at the gym listening to awesome jungle // EXERCISE: Rest of the gym session.
20 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk.
21 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk in 5-10 min chunks recceing quarries.
22 - EXERCISE: 3 hours freezing cold easy bouldering at Harland Edge. Reinjured already-sensitive elbow on a couple of locky moves. Utterly demoralised as I'd been making progress over December and had been relying on regular and varied wall visits to meet people and have some form of social life.

Ah, fucking hell Fiend, that's bollocks. Deepest sympathies from someone who also relies on wall visits for a semblance of a social life (and is currently not making it to the wall because of brain fuckery).

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#166 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 06:45:28 pm
19 - FUN: 52 mins stretching at the gym listening to awesome jungle // EXERCISE: Rest of the gym session.
20 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk.
21 - EXERCISE: Bare minimum of an hour's walk in 5-10 min chunks recceing quarries.
22 - EXERCISE: 3 hours freezing cold easy bouldering at Harland Edge. Reinjured already-sensitive elbow on a couple of locky moves. Utterly demoralised as I'd been making progress over December and had been relying on regular and varied wall visits to meet people and have some form of social life.

Nooooo!!! Truly shit, sorry mate. Fingers crossed it doesn't set you back too far.

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#167 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 07:56:22 pm
Thanks for the kind words. I was in a pretty bleak state about it last night and that carried over to this morning (propananol for breakfast? why not!). However it does seem to feel not as bad I feared today. It's tweaked and tender but less painful in general movements and has maybe slightly eased off over the day. Still very tentative as it's been such a bugger to get to where it was last month (i.e. progressing) but maybe the setback can be measured in weeks not months??

In my undefence, I wasn't cautious enough yesterday. Although we were taking it easy it was stupidly bloody cold, it took me 45 minutes in a sauna like car before all my toes defrosted, my 7B mate got hot aches on a 5+ and was whimpering like a confused puppy, and then I chose to do a problem, albeit easy, that clearly involved a left arm lock-off, and then do it again to feel less clunky on it. I should have been ruthless with acknowledging the high risk in that situation.

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#168 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 08:39:06 pm
Yikes Fiend, sounds  :wall:

Hopefully, it'll be a question of heeding the message your elbow is giving and it'll settle down in a few days and allow you to resume progressively more challenging climbing? Basically it's saying: 'not ready for this load yet, be patient'.

When I really did my right elbow with golfer's (18 months of joy) what finally fixed it was resuming at a sub warm up level, then upping the ante in tiny baby steps- creeping up on it unawares, you might say- and then it was fine: bit-by-bit.

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#169 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 09:24:05 pm
It was feckin cold yesterday, my shoulder was not playing well in it too which partially forced me into trusting my feet more.

23 

around an hour of walking all of which was pushing/chasing/carrying toddler and bike.

Discovered Sauna Coxey's YouTube vids that she did in lockdown (I'm very late to this party) so killed myself with some core and glute work this evening (that's going to hurt tomorrow!) followed by usual shoulder shite.



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#170 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 23, 2023, 10:39:37 pm
Yikes Fiend, sounds  :wall:

Hopefully, it'll be a question of heeding the message your elbow is giving and it'll settle down in a few days and allow you to resume progressively more challenging climbing? Basically it's saying: 'not ready for this load yet, be patient'.

When I really did my right elbow with golfer's (18 months of joy) what finally fixed it was resuming at a sub warm up level, then upping the ante in tiny baby steps- creeping up on it unawares, you might say- and then it was fine: bit-by-bit.

Cheers MrJR. You saw me the other weekend at a good stage - I had been working up with those baby steps for, well, a few months, and over December those steps had allowed me to progress with the loading well: Gradually increasing loading for the same, or usually decreasing, levels of pain. When I reaggravated it on Thu 12th, it was a slightly larger step in loading, but this was following a few sessions (including with you) where I was able to load it to my current (meagre) limit with little aggravation, and even during the Depot session I didn't get much more pain, it was only after that I felt I'd overdone it. I was trying to do exactly the right thing - dropping down quite a bit and resuming back up with steady mileage - but Sunday was just too much with the cold and movement type. Seeing Biscuit tomorrow but I will be aiming to do what I was aiming to do in the previous week - except drop it down MORE and stay more diligent.

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#171 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 24, 2023, 10:09:42 am
Thanks for the kind words. I was in a pretty bleak state about it last night and that carried over to this morning (propananol for breakfast? why not!). However it does seem to feel not as bad I feared today. It's tweaked and tender but less painful in general movements and has maybe slightly eased off over the day. Still very tentative as it's been such a bugger to get to where it was last month (i.e. progressing) but maybe the setback can be measured in weeks not months??

In my undefence, I wasn't cautious enough yesterday. Although we were taking it easy it was stupidly bloody cold, it took me 45 minutes in a sauna like car before all my toes defrosted, my 7B mate got hot aches on a 5+ and was whimpering like a confused puppy, and then I chose to do a problem, albeit easy, that clearly involved a left arm lock-off, and then do it again to feel less clunky on it. I should have been ruthless with acknowledging the high risk in that situation.

Matt, given you seem to constantly have niggly elbows that seem to flare up at the merest whiff of a strain - have you eve explored there being a pain issue rather than a structural one?  Could your elbows be so chronically injured that what you're feeling is some normal level of discomfort, but your pain feedback is going into overload?



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#172 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 24, 2023, 10:30:09 am
Interested to see what biscuit says. He was a bit more sanguine about re-injuring than i am. Basically said if it feels sore when rehabbing, just back off a little bit and give it a break before carrying on.

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#173 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 24, 2023, 06:13:59 pm
21: Routes @ Horseshoe with GF - Nowt above F6a, nice to be out. Walk along Stanage with hound to watch sunset.
22: Density hangs, stretching and warmup. Board climbing - 10 x board style problems (both MB's were being used so made up my own on the boards @ AW) 6Cish.  Moonboard once everyone else had buggered off, flashed a bunch of new problems up to 6B (yea right) 2hrs+  ;D
23: Stretching, stablizer conditioning and yoga - 45mins

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#174 Re: Sharkathon 2023
January 24, 2023, 07:20:13 pm
Matt, given you seem to constantly have niggly elbows that seem to flare up at the merest whiff of a strain - have you eve explored there being a pain issue rather than a structural one?  Could your elbows be so chronically injured that what you're feeling is some normal level of discomfort, but your pain feedback is going into overload?
I put this to Biscuit today and he agrees there is definitely like to be an issue with that. I'm sure I am quite over-sensitive to the pain given how troublesome it's been, and equally sure that there might be a bit of disconnect between the pain level and the structural damage level. BUT it is the only indicator I have to go on so I don't want to be blase or too casual about it of course!!

Chris, yes you also estimated right there. That is the general strategy. Although I will be erring on the side of caution with the climbing and focusing more on rehab and general conditioning.

 

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