[Duma]

Merry Christmas PCers!
M - 2 x 2 min plank, including some rehab based variations. 12 hr night shift.
T - TCA for an hour before work, circuits. 2 x 6b to warm up, then 6 x 7a+, 5 min rests. 2 min plank with some rehab stuff thrown in. 12 hr night shift.
W - TCA for an hour before work, circuits. 2 x 6b to warm up, then 6 x 7a+, 4 min rests. 2 min plank with some rehab stuff thrown in. 12 hr night shift.
T - 2 min plank with rehab stuff thrown in. 12 hr night shift
F - TCA 90 min bouldering, vertish blacks/whites/blues (high 6's/low7's) Elbow held up.
S - TCA 45 min circuits, 6 x 7a+ 4 min rests. 2 min plank with rehab stuff.
S - 2 min plank with rehab stuff.
? kg
2022 plank total 351 min

One last push with the planks...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM board climbing, links on current project, then in two halves. Loaded carries, lower back.
Tue - AM as usual. PM high pulls, clean and press, ab wheel, lower back.
Wed - AM as usual. PM board climbing, climbed current project. One foot bouldering + 2kg on problem 1.
Thu - bentover high pulls, ab wheel.
Fri - AM as usual. PM weights complex. Mental day.
Sat - AM as usual. PM loaded carries.
Sun - TRX.

[Aussiegav]

Crook as a dog this week. Flu like symptoms with a raging fever, shortness of breath on Christmas Eve

Monday fingerboard session. 95% hangs.  Did 5 sets in half crimp & open hand.

Tuesday.
Bouldering at the depot. Hard session. 4on:4off 6 sets. 1 hard problem/set. Enjoyed this session. But fingers were tired.

Wednesday Thursday Friday sick

Saturday
Thought I was well enough to boulder. Thought wrong

Board10 session at the depot. Felt good during the session but went down big time in the afternoon

Sunday.
Sick all day.

[duncan]

Thanks Duma for keeping PC going.

M - Walked 10km.
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, up to 21kg x 10s (front two, drag and crimp, both hands).
Fingerboard hangs: 35mm edge.
W - Westway with Autobelay, 200m of routes to 6a+. Walked 10 km.
T - Train to Edinburgh. Walked 12km.
F - Ratho with Wil. 200m of routes to 6b. Battered.
S - Walked 10km.
S - Walked 10km. Ate, drank.

Late entry due to the usual. Fat and still nursing a sore wrist however keeping things ticking over. Booked flights and car from Barcelona for the last couple of weeks in March. Get in touch if you’re going to be in the area too.

[Wellsy]

Monday: campus and weighed pullups block as per

Tuesday: rested.

Wednesday: board climbing, felt amazing, did hard shit. Weighted planks, added 5kgs on my bum and did six reps with 1 mins rest, 60, 45, 30 30 30. Gonna try and get to six reps of 60 secs and then add more weight.

Also bench press, 5x5 at 70kgs. Definitely weaker at this than I was, gonna build back up to doing 5x5 at 75kgs and then go fot 5x5 at 80kgs early next year hopefully. Benching at least twice a week is the plan. Just like it tbh.

Thursday: rested

Friday: board, felt amazing. Bicep curls, overhead press.

Saturday: indoor easy shit, Christmas eve so then food coma

Sunday: food coma all day

[shark]

Thanks Duma

~11.12

M.

T. Home warm up. Tor. Better on THFML this time. Reworked Bens with kneepads. Struggled with kneebar release. Stopped when core was fried. Eve. Few goes foot on campussing

W. Lovely day. Stanage. Bad start at Rusty Wall. Rock felt glassy. Only had varifocals. Poor choice of shoe. Felt tired from yesterday. Did Via Media and Rusty Wall and was going to sack it off but in between lounging in winter sunshine ended up doing the other Rusty Wall routes and two new-to-me no star routes (Well Right and Twintrin) before backing off Easter Rib.

T. Drizzle/Mist. Cancelled planned trip out with Dolly

F. Home warm up. Foundry. Easy routes on auto belay. Got stuck into working the yellow circuit on the steep board. Eve Drive to Devon

S. Benchmark weighted deadhang session on a campus rung in a barn. Disappointing results. Best hangs +15kg for 10 secs and +20kgs for 5 secs compared to +30kg 7secs +32.5kgs 6secs when last did in May 21 though was about 3kg lighter then.

S.

Great family get together in Devon. Was expecting better fingerboard scores as thought my max finger strength was ok. Yet another thing to work on.

[User deactivated.]

S. Benchmark weighted deadhang session on a campus rung in a barn. Disappointing results. Best hangs +15kg for 10 secs and +20kgs for 5 secs compared to +30kg 7secs +32.5kgs 6secs when last did in May 21 though was about 3kg lighter then.

So you've had the best part of a year off from doing max hangs and only lost circa 12% off the total load? I'd say that's a great result! Max hangs are a skill that need to be practised if you want to hit your highest scores.

[shark]

Thanks Liam. I had hoped that regularly doing some recruitment and speed pulls to warm up before going out as well as pulling hard on small holds at the Tor would have maintained my max hang strength at previous levels. But you’re right. Was unrealistic and should be more positive about it.

[Fultonius]

Monday: General bouldering with B.

Autobelay double laps with short rest (1m or less) 6c/6c+

Lattice board 1m on 1m rest x 4 laps (failed on 4th with 5s to go). 5th was 40s.

5 min rest. Then 2 more laps, but was in terminal decline by this point.

Tues: Feeling tired/low energy and focus. Decided from this day to remember to take vit d, but also take a multi-vit just in case I'm missing something, and make sure I'm eating enough on training days.

1 1/2hr cycling round Glasgow. (15.3 miles)

Weds: Seems I forgot to take a note...  Was at Newsroom and had a bit of a general boulder... I think.... 

Friday: General boulder. Nothing much of note, made a bit of progress on a 7A+ black that I've been working on.
Break and then did a load of double laps with 1 min rest between laps on the circuit panels. Generally 6b-6c level to try to peak a bit for Spain...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Mince Pie Club:

M: Density Hangs = 65% of Max @ 30s - Piss, AeroCap = 4x4 @ F6b, Stabilizer conditioning and Scapular Pullups
T: Rest
W: Boulder Pyramids = 6A+ish - 6C+ish - Hard!, ARC session = 2xF6a up and down for 8 minutes.
T: Nowt
F: Pre Xmas dinner with GF, dad, kids and their mum - could have gone better.... Drowned sorrows with me dad and a 12YO single malt....
S: Hungover - Missed all the walls except The Hangar = 24 minutes of power!
S: 

Bloody Christmas, just gets in the way!

[Yossarian]

Margalef week 2

M - Rest day. Tried Buster’s Tindeq on one of the rest days (can’t remember which one) and made the numbers go quite high (there was a bit of “fucking hell, that’s your warm up?!” but the fact remains that, when you weigh as much as a bus, when you try to unleash it on a sharp hold or an uncomfortable pocket it feels like you’re going to strip the meat off your fingers.

T - Bits at the Lab inc a short 6c which felt fine once I stopped trying to copy short Japanese 9a wad’s beta.

W - Tried shunting Ahoo mé faccé vede, a very bouldery 7c at the Lab. Assume it’s about 7B or slightly harder. Didn’t feel completely beyond the realms of possibility, though the key RH pocket wasn’t quite big enough to get two of my fat fingers in deep (which might’ve made significant difference) so ended up trying shallow 2 or uncomfortable mono (see above) on shit feet. It was a pity, as the remainder of the hard bit was (though still totally on my limit) doable and indeed fun.

T - Tried doing Ted’s warm up (6c+ at Can Torxa) as my warm up, pulled on a million pockets trying to find some good ones and then fell off insanely pumped. Then tried a short vert 6b in the lay-by down the road, did a similar thing (but with more monos) and fell off, twatting my foot in the process.

F - Limped around at the Lab taking photos of Ted and Jack on Photo Shot (which really looks mega).

S - Went for a little limping wander.

S - Various video calls to kids in Tasmania and family in Sussex from my tent, then went to Lab to try shunting La Bombi which, despite having more obvious holds than the 7c felt insanely hard. First time trying to pull on an 8a for about 20 years and quite glad I did have a go on Xmas day.

Really enjoyed everything so far, esp helping out with people on their projects, plus read a lot, nice mental break, etc. But since that Sunday I’ve realised that one of the main aims of the trip (to figure out what I need to focus on when I get back) has now been achieved and starting to think more about what I want to do when I come back here next.