[GazM]

A while back there was some discussion on this thread (I think) about apps to record problems on your own board. At the  time i was still an advocate of the trusty notebook but starting to think an app might be handy. Any recommendations from folk that use them?

[andy_e]

Ted and Chris use retro-flash, which seems to work fine

[Nutty]

I use Retroflash at the moment which works well. I tried Open Climb but didn't get on with it as you have to select a photo each time you enter a problem which was getting frustrating. I've considered using Stokt as the local wall uses it for their board (and so someone visiting my board is more likely to already have the app) and it seems pretty good, but for a home user they'll add your board for free initally but it looks like you'd then have to pay for any resets. I've still got some holds to add so haven't tried adding my board to the app.

[JamieG]

I also use the Retro Flash app. Overall it works really well. A couple minor bugs/frustrations but considering it is free for your home board I can't complain at all. I much prefer it over the notebook I kept before. It is much easier record and find problems again, since it is all visual, rather than decoding my previous letter and number grid system. The adding holds feature works well as you just take a new photo and carry on.

[Bradders]

Yep +1 for Retro Flash. No way I'd want to use Stokt as I move holds around so frequently, if they charge for each reset it'd quickly get very expensive! Whereas Retro Flash you just add a new pic and crack on.

[GazM]

Brilliant, sounds like Retroflash gets the UKB consensus. I'll have a look.

[scragrock]

I use a heady mix of ouija board paraphernalia , anthropometrics and female intuition in order to in No way recreate the God awful problems that i have set in a previous dervish delirium.

I do hope this helps Gaz

[remus]

Im a big fan of BoulderBot https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.boulderbot.app.android

It does the usual stuff where you can put problems together by selecting holds, but the super cool thing is it can auto-generate problems for you to try. The rate of good problems is actually fairly low (maybe 1 in 10?) but they're generated instantly, and I find it fairly easy to tell when something is going to work or not. For me it's an absolute lifesaver when I'm having one of those sessions where I feel uninspired. It's come up with loads of cool problems and moves that are now board classics.

[sdm]

Just to add to the consensus. I wouldn't consider Stokt unless you've got more money than sense.

Of the free apps, I would order them Retro Flash > Eat Spray Climb > Open Climb. I've now moved on to using Chroma to go with my LEDs, but I don't think that's intended for general release yet.

They all do the job and they all have their quirks and annoyances but are great value for your £0.

Some advantages to Retroflash:

1) If, like me, you forget beta quickly, the ability to save beta videos can be very helpful. Saves a lot of wasted attempts in power endurance sessions
2) If you struggle with setting problems, you can ask a mate to set problems for you through the app. Can be good if you always end up setting the same style problems.
3) You can group problems in to folders for quick navigation to Projects, Warm ups, Power Endurance problems etc.
4) You can filter problems by style if you want to work on a particular type of problem.
It has some social aspects which you may like or hate. They're easily ignored if they aren't for you.

+1 to using Boulder Bot too if you're struggling for inspiration when setting problems. A lot of what it comes up with is log but you can quickly scroll through until it creates something decent, and then enter that in to whatever app you use. Its success rate is low but it's come up with some bangers that I never would have tried setting myself. I have to tweak every start move though, it doesn't seem to understand a board without a kickboard so it overestimates how high I can reach from a sitstart and how low I can reach with my feet after sticking the first move.

[dunnyg]

There's an app called boulder book which I've been told is better and less buggy than retroflash. Not used properly yet but going to try once all the holds are back on the board

[MischaHY]

Another vote for boulderbot being super useful. I'd actually say it's a fair bit better than 1/10 but the key is to increase 'length'
 slightly alongside difficulty - what this effectively means is that it gives itself permission to add in 1-2 extra holds which generally make the movement a bit more realistic.

[crzylgs]

Another vote for boulderbot being super useful. I'd actually say it's a fair bit better than 1/10 but the key is to increase 'length'
 slightly alongside difficulty - what this effectively means is that it gives itself permission to add in 1-2 extra holds which generally make the movement a bit more realistic.

This is similar to my experience with Boulder Bot. Is a fun app to use helps with the common issue of setting moves you're good at and that you don't find too awkward. I've found it really good for inspiration, often the entire problem it suggests isn't perfect but there will be a move or two that gets you thinking and you can then refine, or set a similar style move that you might not have thought of yourself and end up with a couple of nice links.

[Bradders]

Cheers for the Boulder Bot recommendations. Had a go on a problem set with it yesterday and enjoyed it a lot; used a few holds I've previously neglected and came up with some movement I wouldn't have set myself. Really good.

I like that it's not perfect at coming up with things; the creative element of setting your own problems is very important, but it's nice to have some help in thinking outside your normal style. 

Only major gripe with it is that for some reason it rarely seems to put finishing holds at the top of the board

[MischaHY]

Cheers for the Boulder Bot recommendations. Had a go on a problem set with it yesterday and enjoyed it a lot; used a few holds I've previously neglected and came up with some movement I wouldn't have set myself. Really good.

I like that it's not perfect at coming up with things; the creative element of setting your own problems is very important, but it's nice to have some help in thinking outside your normal style. 

Only major gripe with it is that for some reason it rarely seems to put finishing holds at the top of the board

Yeah definitely a little tweaking required on most boulders but as you say I find it ace for encouraging different moves and possibilities. What I like about it is that it doesn't consider if a move or hold position is awkward, just the subjective rating of how good the hold is. This often results in me taking holds at angles that I wouldn't normally choose to use them which is a lot closer to how rock is.

If you want it to use the top holds more then adjust them to be rated as more positive/better. The bot will then choose them more often.

[Bradders]

What I like about it is that it doesn't consider if a move or hold position is awkward, just the subjective rating of how good the hold is. This often results in me taking holds at angles that I wouldn't normally choose to use them which is a lot closer to how rock is.

Yes the fact it doesn't know the angle of the holds is both a blessing and a curse.