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PC 675 12-18 Dec (Read 2859 times)

shark

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PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 08:47:32 am
~165.8lbs

M. PM Foundry. Warm up on auto belay. Wave. New set. Did pink in middle of steep section. Struggled on pink to its left and nearly got other pink to its right. Bit more autobelay to finish

T. PM Home warm up. Foundry. Warm up on autobelay. Flashed right hand pink but still finding left one hard pulling off left hand on a round hold. Tried a hard green 6c+ on autobelay to finish. Faintest twinge of tennis elbow so dwarf press ups

W. Slept badly and felt frazzled so bailed going to Curbar with Dolly. PM One arm shoulder shrugs. L Sit. Pull up practice full crimping a 12mm edge - didn’t manage 2 in a row. Foot on campusing. Warm up goes then Up and down 3x, three times. Set of bent over rows and military press. Eve Dwarf press-ups and leg mobility before bed

T

F Froggatt with Dolly. Joined by Tomtom with a cameo from nai. Pointed at I’m the Captain Now 7a Brushed snow and ice off. Didn’t make much impression  on it. Or Plum round the other side. At end we went to the main edge and had a go on Downhill Racer Direct. Dolly got close. I didn’t. Had a look at Chequers buttress. Reached onto the arête a couple of times but didn’t commit. Reversing off was awkward

S. PM Systems board. Reworked crimps benchmark, Gaston’s sequence and throw variations. Had a go at doing a  20/10 set at 2 sec per move alternating sloper jugs and incut crimps. Think I did 80 moves out of 120
Eve Good night out at Fox House with Paul, Keith, Simon Reed and Bill Hines and partners. I was the best at drinking

S. Eve. Systems board Did a full set of 20/10’s at 2 sec per move and 70 moves in second set

Generally did the stuff I’m aiming to do over the next couple of months. It’s a start

SA Chris

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#1 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 09:05:33 am
Had a look at Chequers buttress. Reached onto the arête a couple of times but didn’t commit. Reversing off was awkward
Were you soloing? Not surprised, must have felt committing.

shark

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#2 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 09:28:46 am
Had a look at Chequers buttress. Reached onto the arête a couple of times but didn’t commit. Reversing off was awkward
Were you soloing? Not surprised, must have felt committing.

Yes. But I have soloed it a couple of times before

cheque

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#3 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 09:55:37 am
Chequers Buttress is really height dependent. I used to think it was dead steady when I was taller but it’s not since I lost height- I have to do another move with my feet before making the reach now. Kind of makes sense when you consider it’s the only one of the classic Froggatt HVSs that wasn’t cleaned up by Joe Brown in the late forties.

SA Chris

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#4 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 10:32:58 am
I've seen some shorties have to come up with innovative ways to get across but i would have though it was more span dependant than height. Not done it this century mind, so memory might be a bit askew.

Duma

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#5 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 11:10:00 am
M - lugged some furniture around, otherwise nothing.
T - sore throat but otherwise feel fine. Not covid. 2 min plank. TCA pm, rehab routine but skipped the hangs, then couple of easy circuits to warm up and a few not-too-steep problems including one of the new black set (6C-7A). Then circuits, 30° board had been reset which was a relief as previous lot were shite. This set includes a decent 7a+ish , did a couple of laps on that , then worked out the harder one (7c+ish) and got that in overlapping 2/3rds.
W - Sore throat meant shit sleep, feeling ropey. 12 hr shift. 2 min plank with a few variations from my rehab added in.
T - 12 hr shift. Not quite better, but improved enough to plan climbing tomorrow.
F - still not better. Brean, beautiful day, frozen tide lines on the beach but sun and no wind meant reasonable connies. Pearl Harbour to warm up then three times up Brean Topping to try once more to come up with something workable for the crux. Same result as my other 2 sessions on it, did the moves individually but no links, not realistic yet. Would really like to go with someone who's done it/has a workable sequence. Frustrating to just feel like I'm thrashing around when it's so hard to get conditions, partners, and lack of a fucking queue to coincide.
S - still not better, annoying now. 3x1 min plank with a few rehab based variations.
S - still not better. 1 min plank with rehab stuff, 2 min plank

69.5 kg
2022 plank total 337 min

Felt like a bit of a lost week to generally feeling under the weather despite getting out for what will probably be the last time this year on Friday, but looking back Tuesday was a good session, first time I've been able to use the 30° circuit board since mid September with no real adverse reaction. Hopefully this bodes well for being able to get some fitness before February trip.

Fultonius

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#6 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 11:27:56 am
12 Dec 2022

TCA Newsroom circuits:

Warm up: 3laps 5+

6a+ (haha) more like 6b+ orange on scarpa panel.

6b (actually 6b)

6c (pumpy, on 30/45panel)

7b flashed 25/32 moves.

7a flashed 34/37 and mainly just got lost.

6b 1min rest into 6c. 10min rest. 
Green 6c P4 1min rest into blue 6c P5 (used some extra feet on 2nd route to modify difficulty) pumped. Hard. Almost failed.

6b+ (orange p5GF) 1m rest into orange Bf P1 6b. Nearly failure at end.

T: nowt
Weds: Winter climbing!  3 hr walk in to grey corries, climbed Some Like it Hot VII, 7 (4 hours of general conditioning and moderate pumpy forearm training / calf training) 2.5 hr walk out.

T: overworked forearms on pinky side (from the way you hold an axe...) so rest
Friday: Rest
Saturday: night raid winter climb on Geal CHarn (4 hrs walking to find the route (should be 1 hr...dark...), 1.5 hours of moderate cardio and barely any pump (aerocap / ARC training) and walk out. Finished at 2.30 AM.

Sunday. Not much, planned to do some yoga but just too wiped from bad sleep.


Wellsy

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#7 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 11:35:31 am
Monday - (5x weighted pullups with 23kgs added, 3 x campus boulder problem) x 5 super sets. Overhead pressing 3 x 8 with 15kgs dumbbells. Overhead squat with 40kgs on the barbell for fun and thoracic mobility

Tuesday - rested other than fingerboarding; 6 x front three half crimp on 20mm for 10 seconds, 2 x back two drag in pockets for 10 seconds, 2 x index mono hangs for 10 seconds.

Wednesday - light indoor session, did some harder stuff but mostly easier

Thursday - went to Burbage. Logistics of trying Violence was too complex (only one pad, too much snow etc) so gave up after 30 mins and went to the valley. Did some easier stuff, repeated Tiger, did the king line that is Tiger Sit 6C. Probably better than Tiger tbh, but a bit silly. Lot of snow. Had a nice morning out.

Friday - indoor session, did a load of easier things, flashed most of the new irn brus at the works

Saturday - flashed most of the rest, fingerboarded.

Sunday - rest, played a nice boardgame called Wingspan, definitely recommend.

Johnny Brown

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#8 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 12:08:11 pm
Had a look at Chequers buttress. Reached onto the arête a couple of times but didn’t commit. Reversing off was awkward
Were you soloing? Not surprised, must have felt committing.

Yes. But I have soloed it a couple of times before

I find it a pretty committing solo, crux feels irreversible and not the jug-fest you'd like once on the arete. If soloing grades were a thing it would be near the top of the HVSs.

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#9 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 12:10:40 pm
F7b+ flasher fails to repeat F5+ solo due to common sense. Crowd quite relieved.

shark

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#10 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 12:26:44 pm
If soloing grades were a thing it would be top of the HVSs

So true - felt harder to solo than Via Dexter which I did last week given E2. Did it with a pad but would have been happy without. Regrading routes for soloing is an interesting thought exercise ie crux at start or top makes a huge difference
« Last Edit: December 19, 2022, 12:38:38 pm by shark »

duncan

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#11 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 12:36:37 pm
Brean is a good spot in many ways but it doesn't take many people to clog - or hog - the common starts.

There is always Bones Chimney! (roughly one ascent per decade)

M - Walked 12km.
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, up to 21kg x 10s (front two, drag and crimp, both hands). Shoulder conditioning: side planks, dumbell rows, etc. Legs (frog squat, single leg squat etc.).
W - Westway, 5 routes to 6a+. Walked 10 km.
T - Walked 10 km.
F - Fingerboard hangs (large edge, 3s); fingerboard pick-ups, as above to 23kg. Walked 13 km.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Walked 10km with the lad, amazingly he volunteered to join me and we had a good natter.
S - Westway, 10 routes to 6a.

Wrist exercises daily.

Non-climbing fun in the snow, wrist tolerated some easy climbing, not a bad week.

On the back of the slow progress of my wrist, started planning a trip to the Siurana area for the last two weeks in March. Get in touch if you’re going to be around.



Nibile

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#12 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 12:56:02 pm
Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM board climbing.
Tue - AM as usual. PM DL from blocks 3x5 130 kg, 4x5 120 kg, 5x5 110 kg. Press.
Wed - AM as usual. PM regular weights.
Thu - AM as usual. PM board climbing, climbed current project, first one after lay off. At 51 years old, after 30 years of climbing, still almost nothing beats the feeling of getting asleep while reliving the successful attemp of a challenging problem.
Fri - AM as usual. PM bentover row, high pulls.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - TB good mornings, TBDL, farmer's.




Duma

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#13 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 12:59:55 pm
Brean is a good spot in many ways but it doesn't take many people to clog - or hog - the common starts.
There is always Bones Chimney! (roughly one ascent per decade)

Yeah I'd like to amend the crag description to make clear that despite there being 63(!) Sport climbs listed, there's actually 19 or so lower offs...
... Topping is particularly bad as it shares it's start with 3 link ups, all fairly popular.

I saw Guy at the crag on Friday, seemed to be having fun! Sue Hazel was there too, who I think you know iirc?

cheque

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#14 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 01:15:25 pm
I've seen some shorties have to come up with innovative ways to get across but i would have though it was more span dependant than height. Not done it this century mind, so memory might be a bit askew.

Yeah I’d have said it was more span-dependent than height-dependent too but while my arms are still the same length, it feels much less secure at 171cm than it ever did at 178cm.

I think the committing move JB refers to is the one I didn’t used to have to do- I used to just reach up and across with my feet where they were, now I have to stand up on some smeary bits first.

My reason for mentioning height was that I remember Shark once posting that he’d discovered he was shorter than he used to be.

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#15 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 01:43:34 pm
T: 30 mins skipping

W: PT. Strength test and view on loading pinky more. Active pulling on 20mm edge HC RH only 20lb-ish off the LH. Two finger isolated did 40lb RH, 25lb LH. Good progress and plan for complete return to strength

T: G1. Kilter session 45deg. 2 V3, 2 V4, 2 V5, 3 V6. Tried a load of boulders after and did good links on some harder boulders

S: Eldorado Canyon. Bitterly cold. Went to try Resonated V8 (hard) over the ice. Bit technical and too heavy reliance on R knee (tweaky) for my liking. Then did the big hike out to Blue Whale V7 (sandbag). Felt v hard and skin was trashed quickly. Consolation tick on a lowball boulder facing BW which I eliminated a jug out left at the top to give a fun, thrutchy top.

spidermonkey09

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#16 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 02:37:13 pm
If soloing grades were a thing it would be top of the HVSs

So true - felt harder to solo than Via Dexter which I did last week given E2. Did it with a pad but would have been happy without. Regrading routes for soloing is an interesting thought exercise ie crux at start or top makes a huge difference

I haven't done as much soloing recently as in the past but find being au fait with the grit makes a huge difference for me. I did a few routes up at Bamford when it was too warm and felt really sketched, then did some in cold conditions at Burbage a few weeks later and they felt beautiful. Last week did some highball/solos by myself at Scout Hut and they felt easy. Its very dependent on outside factors I think. For me having even one pad under them makes a big difference.

Teaboy

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#17 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 02:49:35 pm
dwarf press ups


What’s one of them? Google provided a few options but I don’t think you meant any of them

Duncan Disorderly

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#18 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 03:01:46 pm
Finding a wall warm enough to train in... Club.

M: AW with GF, tried to warm up - failed! Belayed her then went for a pint and dinner in a pub with a fire!
T: AW - Freezing! Managed to warm up after about an hour then did some shoulder shrugs, boulder triples (around the 6B+/6C mark) and 2 sets of Aerocap @ F6b...
W: Rest
T: Took the initiative and went to the Hangar with my daughter (supposedly the warmest wall in Sheff) - Good fun session, did a load of the comp problems with her and managed some quite tricky stuff (no grades there, mostly flashing purples and the odd red)... Was 100% warmer than AW!
F: Drive to Essex
S: Pre Christmas Dinner with GF's Folks - Didn't eat or drink toooo much.
S: Strength Intervals and Scapular conditioning @ The Hangar - Mostly purples.

Good week, did everything... Didn't seem massively restful for a supposed rest week.....

cheque

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#19 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 03:42:00 pm
Finding a wall warm enough to train in... Club.

M: AW with GF, tried to warm up - failed!

:lol: My new fitness regime is based around weekly autobelay sessions at AW. The last few I’ve worn full baselayer under my normal gear and had a down gilet and woolly hat for the first two warm up laps as well… on Friday night there were only 18 other people in there and it was so cold that you could see your breath!  :blink: I think climbing on the autos helps as I don’t need to stand around belaying- when I feel like I’m cooling down while resting it’s time to get on the wall again.

SA Chris

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#20 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 03:48:02 pm
it was so cold that you could see your breath! 

Sounds like a normal day at Ratho. A hole in the ground with a tarp over it is never going to be toasty.

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#21 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 04:00:23 pm
Cannie pay yer Lecci bill Club

M: Recovering from what could best be described as Buckfast binge fuelled Monkeypox fuck fest.
T: Strode around the Easgate shopping centre like a Pished up Napoleonic soldier after Waterloo selling The Big Issue to strangers who tried in vain to ignore me.
W: Got cautioned by the Filth for drunk and disorderly and aggressive sales of afore mentioned magazine.
Th: Got fired from The Big Issue, Fir Fucks sake...who gets sacked by them?
F: Hit the docks, managed 4 H.J's a couple of blowees and a full on session with Old Nick the Sailor chap{he threw me about like an empty tracksuit} before returning home with much needed Moola fir the weekend.
S: Sauntered into the Market bar already lubed from a round of White Lightening and an auld fashioned speed ball. Spent the evening chewing my own face off and leering at college kids slumming it and trying to look edgy. Capped the evening off with more bad life choices and falling into the welcoming bars of the Rozzers late night pick up Van.
The Sabbath: Spent today in the cells with some dark thoughts and an itchy blanket.

shark

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#22 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 04:04:54 pm
dwarf press ups


What’s one of them? Google provided a few options but I don’t think you meant any of them

Press-ups on your knees with feet off the ground on fists - knuckles pointing towards each other. Should be able to crank out 40/50 at a time.

Elbow niggle has already gone.

Duncan Disorderly

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#23 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 04:11:40 pm
dwarf press ups


What’s one of them? Google provided a few options but I don’t think you meant any of them

Press-ups on your knees with feet off the ground on fists - knuckles pointing towards each other. Should be able to crank out 40/50 at a time.

Elbow niggle has already gone.

Do these everytime I feel a slight Elbow tweak too... Do get some funny looks tho.

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#24 Re: PC 675 12-18 Dec
December 19, 2022, 04:13:44 pm
You're a weird looking dwarf tho, lankmeister!

 

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