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Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022 (Read 4384 times)

Duma

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Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 04, 2022, 03:20:55 pm
M - Elbow much better than Sun, but decided to give it another days rest (decision aided by rain until midday). El Pati in afternoon to belay mate on his project. Resisted temptation to try it.
T - El Pati to retrieve draws and warm up, repeated Viagraman 7a. Then over to Salt de la Reina Mora to get back on Minimal Techno. Cloud cover meant better connies than previous sessions. Felt good getting draws in, then first attempt got hand onto the jug at the end of the first crux but couldn't hold it. Next go did it! Scraped past the first crux, milked the rests, climbed the second crux better than any other attempt. YYFY! Super psyched, totally brilliant route, suits me well, and hardest sport I've done abroad.
W - Grau de Masets. Was aiming for a flash go on La Muerte del Sponsor but feeling low energy and elbow struggling so after warming up on Aleva 6b+ just got the clips in L'Imbecile 7c for a mates flash attempt. Tried a redpoint later but hadn't worked out the top section and fucked it. Too tired for another go. Nice sector though, should have done some of the easier things round the corner.
T - Forecast was poor so planned chilling. Actually was okay but we were knackered so just walked up to Montsant for a look. Mega impressive place, will def try and climb here next time.
F - early start, fly home. 12 hr night shift.
S - 12 hr night shift.
S - 12 hr night shift.

70.5 kg
2022 plank total 315 min

Great trip, loads more done than I thought, and Siurana turned out to suit me pretty well. The not too steep nature of it meant I could try some harder things despite injury. That said the volume and trying hard has definitely set my elbow rehab back a few weeks, some days RoM and tenderness was as bad as the first few weeks after I did it. Will be interesting to see how it responds now I'm getting back to regular rehab, fingers crossed I can get fully recovered before Chulilla in Feb.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2022, 04:06:35 pm by duncan »

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 04, 2022, 05:12:23 pm
Had a bevy of excuses this week so skipped the board sessions.

Sa - another day, another throw at Stu's Left. High point was falling off the lh move after getting the rh slot in the stand. The disbelieving onlookers admonished me for not bumping heel to left toe knob before doing this. New beta learned. I don't care - I felt like I was making those holds my bitch. Psyched.

Su - Trowbarrow, which we had to ourselves despite it being about the only place in the north due to be dry. 36C kindly brought his ladder so could work the bump beta on Vitruvian in isolation. It's blind but when you hit it it's a jug and makes a massive difference. Then did it first go from the bottom.
Then Texas Hold Em. Once again I was admonished for trying the toe drag beta in a Miura. Switched to an Instinct and it worked! Feeling tired by this point but best go was dropping it trying to match the top with left hand. Psyched!

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#2 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 04, 2022, 05:53:50 pm
Glad the beta worked Will.

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#3 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 04, 2022, 08:59:51 pm
Then over to Salt de la Reina Mora to get back on Minimal Techno. Cloud cover meant better connies than previous sessions. Felt good getting draws in, then first attempt got hand onto the jug at the end of the first crux but couldn't hold it. Next go did it! Scraped past the first crux, milked the rests, climbed the second crux better than any other attempt. YYFY! Super psyched, totally brilliant route, suits me well, and hardest sport I've done abroad.

Waddage. Well done


M

T

W. Warmed up repeating Dionysius 6b and the excellent Can Baba 6c+. After two rest days was confident of redpointing Medusa 7b+. Things quickly unravelled and I climbed like a bag of spanners and feel off the top of the initial  6b  slabby wall. Came down and pulled the ropes and went back up falling low in the tufa system. Dogged a bit higher but everything felt really hard. Second redpoint got a bit higher but still much lower than my onsight highpoint.  Dogged and worked the rest of the route. Despondent. Right shoulder hurt and felt felt woozy on walk down. No idea what happened

T. Can Baba again. Then flashed Medusa. Wasn’t fighting on the tufa section this time but some power shouting required on the top wall. Eddie suggested we check out Sharma Wall 15 mins up the hill that had long wall routes although with rain threatening it was a risk. Despatched a decent 30m 6b+ with a 7a extension, El Kedi then got involved in Zenith an arduous and sustained 40m! 7a into 7a+. Great route and chuffed to onsight it. Paul was close to dropping it on his turn. Good way to end the trip.

F. Travel

S. PM Dragged myself out to the Tor. Dismal weather. Soggy rock. Good to catch up with folk there. Rock greasy Half hearted goes on Bens. Didn’t manage much but pleased to do throw move. Joined in Cave by Dave Mac who was trying Belly of the Beast. Left him to it as it was getting dark. Few goes foot on campussing at home

S. Warm up and finger sling test

Good trip, good craic in Datca. Still mystified by Wednesdays meltdown. Overdid it on the pastries and gained a few pounds. Have an idea of how I’m going to train over the next few months

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#4 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 04, 2022, 10:03:33 pm
M: Boulder Canyon. After work session at Slacker V8. Worked the moves and tried lots of different beta before figuring out the best way for me. Lamp promptly died and would only remain on for c. 45s after I turned it on. Had to brush, chalk up, shoes on then lamp on to send as quickly as possible. Managed to send which I'm psyched on! My 400th 7A and up! Briefly tried the low moves (tweaky on wrist) and a nearby V6 (horrible kneebar) before finishing


T: G1. Bench press 165lb X3 *3. Cable flys 25lb X2 X5 *3. Cable chest pulls 20lb X2 X5 *3. Bicep curl 35lb X8 *3. Shoulder press 40lb X6 *3.

W: G1. OH 20mm 7s up to +45lb *4sets. Psyched as finger felt stressed but good. 10 boulders up to V5. Kilter 25deg 1mins on, 2 mins off *4, got pumped and some failure. 10 mins bike

T: G1. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *5. RDLs 165lb X5 *5. Single leg glute bridge X5 *5. 10 mins bike

S: Maxwell Falls. Went to check out a new V9 squeezer called Rematch. Took a while to work out moves, found them hard. Put the boulder down relatively quickly after to get the third ascent. Probably soft but v psyched. First V9 in over two years!


S: 2.5 mile walk round Westminster dog park

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#5 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 04, 2022, 11:22:05 pm
Joined in Cave by Dave Mac who was trying Belly of the Beast.
Name of his new diet?

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#6 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 06:48:48 am
Power Club

Mon - PM boxing bag.
Tue - AM as usual. PM ab wheel, thruster, high pulls.
Wed - PM ab wheel, EMOM clean, high pulls, bentover row, pull ups. Lower back.
Thu - AM as usual. PM board climbing, very easy. Lower back.
Fri - AM as usual. PM weights.
Sat - PM mega boxing bag session.
Sun - snatch, bentover row, high pulls. 1 cm edge tests, - 7 kg RH - 9 LH. Right wrist still a bit injured, right lower back still achey.
Very slow board season start due to small injuries dammit.






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#7 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 09:11:24 am
Sunday last week:
27 Nov 2022

What climbing training did I do.

Quick fire round of pinks, trying repeat as many first go in quick succession. Managed 2 new, repeated 4 and some easier greens and blues.

Autobelay 2 x 20 mins. 6a+/b maintaining a 3-5/10 pump. Couple of times it got a bit hard work. More of a low grade tired pump than full blown balloon arms.

Weds:

30 Nov 2022

How was my physical condition today?

FB progressive warm up to max.
Working pinks (no progress on proj, heel hook felt harder and not got last move). Flashed 1 black, got two within a few goes (6c/6c+). Repeated a few pinks.

Face pulls 40kg x10 x 3
Trx rows parallel off box. 10 x 3
Hollow body leg / arm raises x 8 x 3
Superman pauses x 10 x 3

Thurs: 3 x 10 leg raises on bar.

Friday: FB progressive warm up, working on 2 problems and repeated a few pinks. Nice progress on a 7A+ that had some apparently impossible moves, which I managed to figure out during the session and got very close to a link.
Then did the crimpd foot on campus exercise. I'm not sure I like the matched rest times and might change to fixed intervals for better quality - thoughts?

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 10:26:18 am
Joined in Cave by Dave Mac who was trying Belly of the Beast.
Name of his new diet?

According to IG he did it and Keen Roof over the w/e. Seems to be working.

duncan

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#9 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 11:19:28 am
Nice one Duma!

M  - Walked 12km.
T - Shoulder conditioning: side planks, dumbell rows, etc. Walked 12km.
W - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, up to 20kg x 10s (front two, drag and crimp, both hands). Walked 12km.
T - Shoulder conditioning. Legs (single leg squat etc.). Walked 10km.
F - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, front two, up to 20kg x 10s right hand; 23kg left hand. Walked 12km.
S - Walked 10km. Shoulder  conditioning.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, front two: up to 21kg x 10s right hand; 24kg left hand. Walked 11km.

+ wrist rehab. every day.

The restaurant is a good one too! We’ve from the ones we’ve been to it was one of the more interesting, and seemed a lot more worth the money.
Noted!

What wrist exercises are you doing? Sorry to hear it’s still causing problems.
I was aware I wasn’t resting as much as I should have early on, however I had a bunch of great trips this summer. I suspected at the time I was trading climbing on Ben Nevis and Cloggy for a quiet autumn.

I can do light household work and easy climbing without flaring up my wrist (currently, trying hard = E3/6c; easy = VS/4+) and the rehab. reflects this level of function. Emphasis is on functional extensor and ulnar side wrist strengthening whilst maintaining the wrist in a neutral / slightly extended position where it is pain-free. I'm doing reverse biceps curls (functional wrist extensors) and dumbbell rows with a hammer (head of the hammer on the ulnar side ie functional ulnar side muscle strengthening). Secondary aim is to keep as much finger strength as I can as the wrist gets better. I’m doing front two finger exercises at about 85% of max. and front three at about 60%. Wrist position is important: crimping tends to keep the wrist in extension, slopers are a bad idea currently.

Paul Houghoughi on some of the general principles of management.

Chris Doyle on when it goes badly wrong.
(TL/DR: don't rely on manual work as you get older)

edshakey

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#10 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 12:36:41 pm
Joined in Cave by Dave Mac who was trying Belly of the Beast.
Name of his new diet?

According to IG he did it and Keen Roof over the w/e. Seems to be working.

... surely he hasn't travelled down specially to the Tor, just to do hard boulders that lots of people have tried, just so when he says his diet is working, he can point to this as evidence? Surely not...  :popcorn:

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#11 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 12:50:25 pm
I think he probably just likes bouldering and wanted to do them

remus

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#12 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 01:12:57 pm
I think he probably just likes bouldering and wanted to do them

That's a rubbish conspiracy theory!

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#13 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 01:42:20 pm
Joined in Cave by Dave Mac who was trying Belly of the Beast.
Name of his new diet?

According to IG he did it and Keen Roof over the w/e. Seems to be working.

... surely he hasn't travelled down specially to the Tor, just to do hard boulders that lots of people have tried, just so when he says his diet is working, he can point to this as evidence? Surely not...  :popcorn:

Wondered why I saw him in Sheffield-Doncaster Airport...  :worms: :popcorn:

shark

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#14 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 02:11:08 pm
First thing I asked him was ‘what brings you down here’ and he said something along the lines of ‘I like the Peak - I used to come down here a lot’. ‘I asked whether he was staying with friends’ and he said he wasn’t as he wanted to concentrate on his writing. It was hard work striking up a conversation with him. Didn’t seem like the whole answer.

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 02:18:08 pm

Wondered why I saw him in Sheffield-Doncaster Airport...  :worms: :popcorn:

Is that a joke? If not, poor show, wasn't he pretty vocal recently about not flying?

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#16 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 02:46:25 pm
He seems like a quiet chap, he could just be not very talkative.

Or he's on the road setting up beef-eating insurgent cells to strike back against the vegan takeover, could be that.

More importantly, did he slam his pads down?!?

shark

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#17 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 03:04:45 pm
More importantly, did he slam his pads down?!?

As if

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#18 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 03:24:44 pm

Wondered why I saw him in Sheffield-Doncaster Airport...  :worms: :popcorn:

Is that a joke? If not, poor show, wasn't he pretty vocal recently about not flying?

Truth be told, I actually saw him at Zurich getting on a connecting flight to Sheffield-Doncaster Airport. He mentioned that he was returning from a seal clubbing trip in Russia.

Full disclosure: I may have fabricated the entire story as a means of defamation.

SA Chris

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#19 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 03:56:32 pm
I guessed, I'm sure Seal hasn't gone clubbing for a few years now

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#20 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 06:10:37 pm
I think he probably just likes bouldering and wanted to do them
If you like bouldering you're not going to go to the Tor ffs. Enjoyment-deprived masochism at it's best.

More seriously, the logic of what Edshakey says makes sense. Although surely there are closer  options? Clamchowderstone?

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#21 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 05, 2022, 07:25:17 pm
First thing I asked him was ‘what brings you down here’ and he said something along the lines of ‘I like the Peak - I used to come down here a lot’. ‘I asked whether he was staying with friends’ and he said he wasn’t as he wanted to concentrate on his writing. It was hard work striking up a conversation with him. Didn’t seem like the whole answer.
It sounds like this diet does wonders for your mood.

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#22 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 06, 2022, 12:09:03 pm
Sounds like a great trip Duma - Effort! Nice to see you crushing things Will... Good work Simon - bring on the training psyche!!

Missed a week club:
PC - 672

M: Weighted deadhangs, 4x4's,
T: Boulder problem scoping (for upcoming lettuce plan) and weighted pullups...
W: Rest
T: Routes @ AW up to F6c+
F - Su: London with daughter

Generally easy going as getting ready for the plan...

PC: 673

Lettuce week one:

M: Boulder triples (6B-6Cish), continuity 5x3 (5 min sets on F6a - F6a+ routes) and stabilizer conditioning @ AW
T: Rest
W: Density hangs, 2x4 AeroCap (F6bish), Weighted Pullups @ AW
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Boulder pyramids (up to 6C+ish), bar core work. bicep curls, shoulder presses and rows, active posterior chain mobility, general bouldering @ The Depot with Fiend - Destroyed!

1st week done - managed all the exercises, trickiy getting the intensity quite right for the bouldering but starting to get a feel for it by the end of the week.... Good to see Fiend and get the gym conditioning lowdown  :thumbsup: - I have so little idea about this stuff!

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#23 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 06, 2022, 12:13:59 pm

If you like bouldering you're not going to go to the Tor ffs. Enjoyment-deprived masochism at it's best.


What a load of rubbish

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#24 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 06, 2022, 12:25:05 pm
It was hard work striking up a conversation with him.
I did a master class with him and Niall McNair many years ago, and found the same. Niall was much better craic.

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#25 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 06, 2022, 12:53:46 pm
Wonder if he is still smoking?

SA Chris

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#26 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 06, 2022, 12:57:17 pm
Can't say, never really been my type ;)

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#27 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 06, 2022, 05:01:10 pm
Yeah Niall is a chirpy chap!

@LiamHutch - glad someone bit  ;)

@Duncan  :-* :strongbench:

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#28 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 07, 2022, 11:21:11 am
M - Felt exhausted most of day following 3 days on up to prev Sat and then a big meal Sunday. Went to wall in the evening not expecting much, but ended up having great board session. Probably partly down to climbing with two energetic young wads. One of them tried and failed to do the hard bit on the problem I've been working on (for about 2 years) which I was quite chuffed about (because I literally think I weight nearly twice as much as him).
T
W - Lacklustre session at the wall not really doing anything useful. Did a bit of standing on the floor FB aero in the evening.
T - Skipped wall, did a bit more aero at home.
F - Wall. Started board session but wasn't really feeling it. Ended up chatting for ages with chap from the Stronghold who'd recently moved down from London. Did a bit of board 4x4 to finish.
S - Wall. Ok board session, downstairs for some climbing with the kids, then fairly fierce session of board 4x4s, foot on campus, and bumpy laps of the circuit board. Extremely tired by the end.
S - Went for my favourite local walk. Bumped into Paul McCartney. Discussed nocturnal animals before both realising how dark it was getting.

A week till I arrive in Margalef. Right shoulder is still painful to sleep on, but most climbing positions (apart from diagonal gastons / pressing, which caused it in the first place) seem ok. Weight hasn't really dropped at all, which I still don't really understand. Perhaps when I stop putting creatine in my water bottle I'll suddenly lose 10kg.

SA Chris

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#29 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 07, 2022, 11:33:30 am
Hope you get sorted for trip. if i was you I'd see a sports massage before you go. Probably won't fix it, but at lease ease it up a bit.

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#30 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 07, 2022, 01:03:13 pm
Paul says hi.

SA Chris

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#31 Re: Power Club 673 28 Nov - 4 Dec 2022
December 07, 2022, 01:29:55 pm
Whacky thumbs aloft

 

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