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[Peak][Western Quarries][various routes][E2 5b - E5 6a] (Read 475 times)

Fiend

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Esoteric bollox but fun to explore and some great views.

Cracken Edge:
Umibozu E5 6a *

The rusty face and rib left of Bloody Tower, good technical climbing with some clatter potential from the blind and precarious crux. Start as for BT to the low cam slots then teeter direct up the left of the rib to gain a hidden high slot on the rib, a slider out left, and a more positive finish.
(Originally nicknamed "Too Hard For Mark20", bonus points Iding for who flashed it on a rope but declined to lead it...)

Oldgate Nick:
Bolt Thrower E2 5b *

The obvious lip traverse is steady, but quite spectacular for a small crag. Climb the lower wall to the slab where Nine Tales comes in from the right, then swing merrily rightwards along the lip (small cam midway, then later medium cam above) to the very nose and pull around the right side.

Coombes Rocks:
Gloom Keep E3/4 6a *(?)

Exciting and photogenic for it's size. Start up Audacity (E1 5b?) to gain the flake, avoiding the wedged block. Head down along to lip, past micro-cams, aiming towards Manchester, then use holds on the front face to regain verticality and finish easily.

John Henry Quarry:
Lobster Mobster E4 6a *

Some good reachy moves, if escapable. Start as for PE to the first ledges, but stretch directly up then right to a good crack at the left edge of the Rising Damp niche. Stretch up again to a slightly sloping break, then scuttle 2m left, claw in a finger-jam, and climb straight up past the pillar block to finish.

bolehillbilly

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Good stuff and you should have stuck with the original name  :lol:


(Originally nicknamed "Too Hard For Mark20", bonus points Iding for who flashed it on a rope but declined to lead it...)


JamieG

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Nice work Fiend. The first route especially looks good. Was the cut loose on bolt cutter fully necessary or just for social media masses.  ;D

Fiend

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Cheers guys. BHB - yeah someone else said that too!! JamieG - as per the caption at that point, the cut loose on Bolt Thrower was shameless dicking around!! (for fun rather than social media but then it made a decent thumbnail screencap, although a screencap from Gloom Keep was just as good thanks to the light and view). Omibozu is a strange one as you're not far above bomber cams but the moves seem quite droppable (if not physically hard) and there's some clatter potential past overlaps at the base. The climbing is neat though!
« Last Edit: November 30, 2022, 03:20:11 pm by Fiend »

JamieG

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Haha. “The lady doth protest too much, methinks”!

Just messing. Nice work on the routes.  :)

bolehillbilly

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Good stuff and you should have stuck with the original name  :lol:


(Originally nicknamed "Too Hard For Mark20", bonus points Iding for who flashed it on a rope but declined to lead it...)

Though maybe better saved for a boulder problem. If only I could find one that he doesn't flash.

 

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