UKBouldering.com

Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022 (Read 1926 times)

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1492
  • Karma: +55/-1
Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 27, 2022, 08:05:43 pm

M. Rest day in Margalef. Couch to 5k run.

T. Zora feeling ill. Rest day.

W. Zora still feeling crappy. Rest day but drove back to Siurana.

T. Zora doing better. Well enough to belay. Went back to LíAparador. Lovely conditions. Put the draws in my project. Gave it a burn and dropped at my low point.  :chair: Super relaxed and think I just lost some tension resulting in a foot slip. Next redpoint I got it. Got to the crux feeling really fresh. Didnít have to power scream for the first move. Felt super easy with the new beta.  :strongbench:

First 7c+ for me - well psyched! Feel like it could have gone first redpoint if Iíd have changed the beta at the beginning but in the end it took about 7 redpoints and 3/4 working goes (putting draws in).

Learned a lot about redpointing though. Iím not a fan of climbing the same parts again and again. I guess itís why Iíve always done things in a session or left them until Iím stronger/fitter. But it was nice to have to try a bit harder. The beta change made me think that 8a would be quite possible within a short timeframe so Iím keeping an eye out for one in Chulilla.

Met Duma in the evening via some Mutual friends  :wave:

F. 70th day of physio. Met a guy on Thursday who didnít have a partner (or rope long enough for his project) so had a day climbing with him. Dropped the end of a short 7a due to a foot slip. Only had time for one tie-in before it was dark so decided to have a go at MandrŠgora 7b+ at Esperů Primavera.

Partner had my rope in it so I decided to give it a TR as there definitely wasnít time for me to fall and have a RP. Surprised myself by onsighting it (other than one bit of beta I had which I think I would have worked out anyway). Current best lead onsight is 7b+ and Iím not normally good on these long pumpy routes. It felt pretty steady - though Iím sure I would have dropped it on lead or got scared.

It was interesting to see how I performed when I took stress out of the situation and just committed to moves as I wasnít worried about falling.

Went to the Michelin Star place in the town that night - we said it would be the reward for doing a project. My route was called ďThe drunks of CornudellaĒ and we lived up to it!  :beer2:

S. Started the drive to Chulilla.

S. Climbed at BuŮol to see what it was like. Did a nice but horribly polished 6b (more like 6c). Tried a 7b onsight. Battled through a really hard start and got to a hands off rest. Didnít like the look of the fall (onto ledge) if the next big move wasnít a jug. Secured myself, lowered some rope, clipsticked the next bolt. Spent some time wondering how much that effects the onsight, did the moves fine and then didnít make it to the bolt after that. Doh.  :chair: Turns out it got harder with a crux right at the top. Felt more like a flood defence than sandbag. No time for a redpoint.


We came to BuŮol to make to it wasnít amazing before going to Chulilla (we prefer the shorter routes) but I think we will just go to Chulilla tomorrow instead. Lots of recommendations and it just sounds pretty great.

Any 8a recommendations would be welcome (cruxy, crimpy, more vert is best. Happy for them to be soft holiday 8aís but not ones which are clearly an easier gradeÖ

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5398
  • Karma: +206/-4
#1 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 27, 2022, 11:37:24 pm
Good to meet you James, and congrats on getting your project done!
M - day 1, bit damp in the morning, but with first day psyche and rain forecast from mid afternoon we headed to Siuranella Est. Mucho Papito 6b (OS), Pocapene 6c+(OS), Lo MŠs Negro 7a (2nd go), Lo Dejť to Blanco 7a (flash) (brilliant). Rain started just as we headed back to the car.
T - Baltic at El Pati so switched sector to Salt de la Reina Mora - sun out and shelter from the wind - lovely. Chapas Jom 6c+ (OS), L'Invertebrat 7a (OS), then mate had a rope on Minimal Techno 7c+/8a so had a TR go on that. Did all the moves ok, but hard to tell how close it is without a more concerted effort. More importantly it's fucking mega, so will be back tomorrow for another look.
W - Rumba 6b+ (OS) to warm up, then back on Minimal Techno, 3 goes, one to get draws in and check beta, then 2 redpoints. First ended just before clipping the sixth, but then linked 1st and 2nd crux which was good. 2nd attempt managed to clip the 6th but messed up sequence on 1st crux. Linked from 6th to 11th bolt, foot slip on 3rd crux. Amazing light as lowered off. No tick but great day trying hard. Elbow a bit unhappy though.
T - rest, little bit of mobility and rehab stuff. Elbow not great in morning but improved a bit through the day. Will take it easy tomorrow I think. Saw James M  of this parish in the eve for pizza.
F - Elbow a bit better again but still planned to take it a bit easy. El Pati, Lame Chucha Baby 6b+ (OS), Viagraman 7a (OS), °Ay Mamita! 7a (F), El Prado Del Rey 7b+ (F). No falls day on classics: lovely (although not quite as easy as planned)
S - Can Piqui Pugui, an excellent looking 6c El tiempo se ha reŪdo de los que no han venido (2nd go) to warm up, turned out to be a terrible warm up: 6c+ and monos and tricky crimping low down. Made up for it with the excellent Cruela de Vil 7b (F). Elbow was feeling a bit dodge but felt I should get one more in, so tried Tembleque 7a. Terrible route, yarding on nasty sharp pockets. Dropped it high up missing a hold , scraped through next go but elbow complaining.
S - Rest, elbow def not happy at all. Drove over to Margalef to check it out and gawp at some test pieces.

Loving Siurana, just a shame my elbow isn't really up to it. Will take it easy tomorrow and hopefully get another session on Minimal Techno next week.

? kg
2022 plank total 313 min

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2735
  • Karma: +315/-2
#2 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 09:01:34 am
Always good to hear news from Siurana. Well done on your first 5.13 James! Interested to hear how you get on with Minimal Techno Duma. It's two and a half grades harder than anything I've ever done, but if I was ever going to project something of that grade it would be high on the list. It looks and sounds brilliant.

However, biggest news to me is that Cornudella has a Michelin starred restaurant! Quite a change from 2004 and surely a candidate for Climbing goes Mainstream.


M - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, up to 30kg (front two, 10s) with the good hand.
T - Fingerboard: 15mm edge, 30% RPE on right hand. Ill-advised bathroom DIY efforts (sore wrist). Handel's Alcina (Royal Opera House). Great evening.
W - Legs: frog squat with external rotation press-outs, split squats, heel raises, single leg squats (full squat x4 each leg!)
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge; index, front two, front three.
F - Legs as Wednesday. Walked 10km.
S - Walked 11km.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups, as Thursday. Legs: frog squat, heel raises, single leg squats (full squat x5 each leg).
And wrist strengthening exercises every day.

Wrist is still sore, so quiet week. Managed a full single leg squat for the first time in nearly a year and followed by another 3 just like that. Took quite a bit of work to build back up, after the leg infection I had wondered if Iíd manage another. Gives me a base of strength so hopefully I won't be quite as feeble hiking up and down hills next year.

Plan: wrist rehab; fingers, focusing on index and front two.


shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8361
  • Karma: +598/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#3 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 10:18:08 am
Well done James


M

T. 4am start. Travel to Datca in Turkey with Paul, Steve Mac and Neil Mawson. Eddie, Big Al, Tim and Rich already out there

W. Headed straight to the amazing Can Baba cave which is dripping with tufa. Rainy 🙁. Can Baba Cave was mostly dry but occasionally rain blew in. Rock a bit greasy. 6b+ at the back of the Cave had a hard move so not a good warm up and so dogged it. Can Baba 6c+ to the right much better as a warm up and a great route up tufas. Then fought hard but came to a halt on Live Like a Jay 7b when kneebars ran out and had to grapple with greasy pinches. Unfortunately slapped for the wrong bits. With rain blowing in had a go on Bouldevar a cruxy 7c. Many goes on the crux but couldnít do it but matching an awkward hold in greasy conditions didnít help. Stayed on with Paul when most had already gone home. Was all ready to redpoint Live Like a Jay at the end of the day when it chucked down again and soaked the route.

T. Sunny 😀. Started off with a pleasant 6b and 6c on the slabby walls to the left. Then did Ustsuz 7b another fun tufa route which I thought was pretty easy using hand jams, kneebars and chimneying technique but the others thought it was the right grade. Then flashed Live Like a Jay by the skin of my teeth. Good day but shattered at the end.

F. Rest day for me but not the others.

S. Out of synch with my crew so went up with Al and Eddie. Still in sun when we got there. I headed up Can Baba to warm up and slipped off low down. Not a great start. Waited for it to go fully in the shade and lead it clean. Then went to have a look at the classic Datca Rodeo 7b+ mainly because Paul had left all my draws on it. Had low expectations of doing it let alone flashing it given that Paul had failed. The route looked to be hard version of Ustsuz with a hard low crux. Iíd forgotten my shorts and kneepads were obviously going to be useful so climbed it in my underpants. Pissed the low crux (a fragment of beta helped) and ended up flashing the route! (Paul subsequently came in for some merciless leg pulling from the others). Was tired and thought Iíd be ok on something less steep and tried a 7a on the slabby wall section but was feeling it in my shoulders and it was a bit shit and hard so bailed.

S. Can Baba again to warm up but felt tired. Had a go on Medusa 7b+ and climbed the tufa section efficiently but didnít go the best way pull onto the wall above and fingers uncurled on a couple of crimps. Had a go on redpoint but missed a good kneebar in the tufa section that Iíd milked on the onsight and came off. Two days rest needed I think.

Chuffed to flash Datca Rodeo as itís been a while since Iíve onsighted a 7b+. However, disappointed at how tired Iíve got though. Would have expected to be more resilient after the 3 weeks at RRG. Hey ho. Amazing place. Certain to get popular over the next few years so good to catch it whilst itís off the radar especially as the main Can Baba sector is fairly compressed. Getting increasingly psyched for winter training so I can have a last roll of the dice on the Oak.

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1492
  • Karma: +55/-1
#4 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 12:23:01 pm
Always good to hear news from Siurana. Well done on your first 5.13 James! Interested to hear how you get on with Minimal Techno Duma. It's two and a half grades harder than anything I've ever done, but if I was ever going to project something of that grade it would be high on the list. It looks and sounds brilliant.

However, biggest news to me is that Cornudella has a Michelin starred restaurant! Quite a change from 2004 and surely a candidate for Climbing goes Mainstream.

And wrist strengthening exercises every day.


Thanks!

The restaurant is a good one too! Weíve from the ones weíve been to it was one of the more interesting, and seemed a lot more worth the money.

What wrist exercises are you doing? Sorry to hear itís still causing problems.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3973
  • Karma: +124/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#5 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 12:35:43 pm
Back on from this week. All training, no trip logs  :P

Just back from a week in Gran Canaria of all places. Not world class, but some friends were going and it was super cheap. Managed 2 x 7b onsights which is my usual holiday fare. One felt about 6c+/7a....  Maybe it was graded by a shortarse.


Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7523
  • Karma: +572/-110
    • Unknown Stones
#6 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 12:52:01 pm
Tendon rest to dispel the tweaks. I believe that cool people call this a deload week.

Su - weather good for nowt but DWR. On Stu's Left again. Had a go getting through to the stand but didn't manage this consistently. Had a few goes getting set on the crimps and them feeling like jugs but legs helicoptered on the swing and pulled me off.
Excellent gossip.

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1147
  • Karma: +55/-0
    • YouTube
#7 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 02:07:17 pm
M: Some light legs work before PT. Pinky improved. Separation of tendon better and fluid drastically reduced

T: Carter Lake. Went to Face Wipe V8, I thought V7 at most. Warmed up and worked the moves then sent first go from the bottom. Moved onto a lowball sandbag V5 Bat Cave - after a load of failure gave up. Finished on Scenic Block where I sent the classic South Line V4 and Standard Route V3, old John Gill lines I believe.


W - S: In NJ for Thanksgiving

NaoB

Online
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 76
  • Karma: +24/-0
#8 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 08:01:51 pm

Rocksteady

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Crank
  • Posts: 640
  • Karma: +45/-0
  • Hotter than the sun!
#9 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 10:29:18 pm
The trip reports on here give me proper psyche. Well done James on 7c+. Sounds like more is to come...

Tue: Tried one arm max pulls with Tindeq progressor measuring pull strength. Warmed up and did 20mm max x 3 each side. Did 69% of bodyweight both sides, fairly even. Felt like very low volume but hopefully did something.

Thu: Did max pulls in the early afternoon and rushed it a bit, worried I tweaked a finger. 71.8% bodyweight pulled which was improvement. Then did an aero type routes session in the evening at the Westway. Enjoyed it, felt fit.

Sat: Did limit bouldering which was limited by board reset at the Westway. Feels like the setting schedule is bonkers there at the moment, so much stuff stripped and not replaced in any sort of timely fashion. Moan over. Did have a good session, managed a blue tag V5-6 after a few goes and made progress on some other blue and orange circuit problems.

Sun: Went for a MTB ride Swinley forest, fun but wet. Came back utterly caked in sandy mud and spent about the same length of time as I rode for cleaning up my bike and myself.

A good week for training, felt both stronger and fitter despite having a bit of a cold.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7909
  • Karma: +732/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#10 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 28, 2022, 10:30:45 pm
Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM board climbing, set and tried one problem, climbed current project. I am the best.
Tue - AM as usual. PM goblet squat, thruster.
Wed - AM as usual. PM bar work, light weights. Sore back.
Thu - AM as usual. PM boxing bag. Sore back.
Fri - AM as usual. PM bar work, loaded carries.
Sat - AM as usual. PM goblet squat, thruster, high pulls.
Sun - AM as usual. PM boxing bag.







Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3973
  • Karma: +124/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#11 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 29, 2022, 12:14:48 pm
The trip reports on here give me proper psyche. Well done James on 7c+. Sounds like more is to come...

I realise now that my comment could be read as "less of that please" which is wasn't meant to be. I'm happy enough with the trip reports, although, over the summer I kind of drifted away from reading it much as I wasn't actively training much myself.

I like the trip reports, but mostly like to see how people reflect on how their training worked / didn't work, where they can improve for next time and what was wasted effort. I have to admit I start to skim read the logs of people on extended trips and just focus on the nuggets of interest.

Luckily this is not a policed forum...so everyone can just do what the hell makes them happy  :yes:

I've gone an bruised my index finger (crushed nail), so might be restricted to back 3 for the rest of the week!

Wellsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 977
  • Karma: +66/-3
#12 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 29, 2022, 01:42:45 pm
Have you found any particular successes and weaknesses in your training approach of late Fultonius?

I've definitely noticed that I feel stronger on the wall of late even though by several metrics I'm behind my PBs, sometimes by a way right now. I suspect that getting those PBs is helping and in base strength even if the peak is lower now

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3973
  • Karma: +124/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#13 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 29, 2022, 03:34:12 pm
Have you found any particular successes and weaknesses in your training approach of late Fultonius?

Ha, I'm too haphazard to make any firm conclusions. I'm measurably no better than any other point in my climbing life, but getting rid of work stress back in March and getting outside on rock way more often has got me closer to getting a pb project done than I've been in years....

Doing a solid block of base endurance really helped both my trad and sport climbing (doing the CF test last winter really helped highlight that I was actually chronically unfit for my grade, and was relying on little sprints of PE between rests to get up anything long.

The biggest revelation for me this year was that the reason I wasn't getting up projects wasn't the wrong training, or lack of ability - it was work stress preventing me from engaging with one in the first place!  Seems obvious now, but I hadn't realised how much it was holding me back. I knew it made it harder to train, get injured more easily and be more grumpy, but I hadn't spotted it was the main reason I'd not even tied in on any of the potential local projects...

I'm now into a quite nice place climbing wise where I'm psyched to do projects, but not overly bothered how quickly - just glad to be out getting familiar with a bit of rock. That said, I'm 8 sessions in...I'm sure if I drop the crux too many more times before I get it I'll probably start to get a bit dismayed...


SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 28193
  • Karma: +601/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#14 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 29, 2022, 04:00:09 pm
Is this complete retirement then, or just temporary?

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3973
  • Karma: +124/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#15 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 29, 2022, 04:23:06 pm
Is this complete retirement then, or just temporary?

If only! Just pretirement pt2....

Back working now, in a more freelance type fashion.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 28193
  • Karma: +601/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#16 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 29, 2022, 04:29:22 pm
Sounds ideal. I had a few of those.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5398
  • Karma: +206/-4
#17 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 29, 2022, 05:21:58 pm
...
I like the trip reports, but mostly like to see how people reflect on how their training worked / didn't work, where they can improve for next time and what was wasted effort.
...

Fair, and a good nudge for me to think about this too.
This trip has really been about managing my dodgy elbow and exploring a new-to-me area, so less about how the training has gone (not that I do much structured effort anyway tbh). Takeaways so far:
The couple of sessions fall practice beforehand were definitely helpful, and my elbow seems to be more sensitive to multiple days than pulling hard.

Yossarian

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2297
  • Karma: +330/-5
#18 Re: Power Club 672 21 - 28 Nov 2022
November 30, 2022, 11:41:43 am
M - Wall. Decent board session despite continued issues with one shoulder and an annoying groin strain from comp blob heel hooking the previous week.
T
W
T - Wall. Board stuff. Joined in with some guys doing 4x4s but shoulder started hurting so diverted back to what I'd been doing before.
F - Wall. Did some laps on juggy things on the board, then some foot on campus, and then some longer circuits on the walls downstairs. Felt pretty wiped out by the end.
S - Wall. Pottered around a bit, then tried to do laps on various things I'd found tricky the previous week, followed by 4x 4x4 on the board and then foot-on campusing. Exhausted.
S

Generally feeling pretty good and climbing stuff on the board better than when I was around 10kg lighter back in the spring. I look thinner but the number on the scales hasn't dropped under 105kg yet. Odd.

About to book trip to Margalef (subject to leaking roof being repaired before departure date) for 3 weeks and a bit. Based on being extremely heavy and without much aero fitness I have absolutely no expectations whilst also having sneaking optimism that I might be able to find some things that might suit me quite well, and also the main goal of climbing lots of stuff and returning in vaguely decent shape for a more productive 2023...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2023, SimplePortal