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Setting a board with Ondra (Read 2071 times)

jwi

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Setting a board with Ondra
November 25, 2022, 01:04:35 pm


very long eurohold infomercial, but interesting that AO rate volumes and big holds so high on a board. I don't, but as a relatively sane person I'd bow to Ondra's expertise.

petejh

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#1 Re: Setting a board with Ondra
November 25, 2022, 03:05:51 pm
Wow.. looks a mega board, would love that to train on. Wonder what the total cost of all those holds comes to.

Paul B

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#2 Re: Setting a board with Ondra
November 25, 2022, 04:31:43 pm
very long eurohold infomercial, but interesting that AO rate volumes and big holds so high on a board. I don't, but as a relatively sane person I'd bow to Ondra's expertise.

I've got some of the EHs Dwarfs (https://euroholds.com/en/series-families/1023-the-seven-dwarfs.html) and some of the more bulbous offerings I've put fairly high up; you can't hit your knee on them that way (Barrows might try). They also stop that thing on boards where the last move is quite often big to a big(ger) hold.

I've also been looking at this set to try and squeeze a trickier circuit on the board (which twists from 30 to 45 deg.):
https://euroholds.com/en/series-families/1159-11966-the-spines-family.html#/5-color-no_matter_faster

I'd also really love some of the Pusher stuff but given the amount I'm not climbing currently there's no justification for buying them; the classics range (granite and font) were excellent on the Foundry boards (RIP):
https://pusher.world/product-category/classic/

abarro81

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#3 Re: Setting a board with Ondra
November 25, 2022, 04:45:01 pm
I've got some of the EHs Dwarfs (https://euroholds.com/en/series-families/1023-the-seven-dwarfs.html) and some of the more bulbous offerings I've put fairly high up; you can't hit your knee on them that way (Barrows might try).
They do look perfect for a tricky-but-not-too-tricky knee...

Bradders

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#4 Re: Setting a board with Ondra
November 25, 2022, 05:22:53 pm
I've got some of the EHs Dwarfs (https://euroholds.com/en/series-families/1023-the-seven-dwarfs.html) and some of the more bulbous offerings I've put fairly high up; you can't hit your knee on them that way (Barrows might try). They also stop that thing on boards where the last move is quite often big to a big(ger) hold.

Why is that? Sorry if I'm being thick, just don't get how that works.

I looked at buying some of them ages ago but if they're good I will reconsider.

Paul B

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#5 Re: Setting a board with Ondra
November 25, 2022, 06:27:28 pm
Regarding the last move you mean? At 45° with them slightly turned they need a fair bit of compression (for me at least). The juggier ones are lower down.

Bradders

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#6 Re: Setting a board with Ondra
November 25, 2022, 09:53:30 pm
Right got it, as in you can't just throw to them and cut feet etc. Sounds good.

Watching the Ondra video the distinction probably needs to be made between setting a decent size spray wall, I.e. what he's doing, and setting a board. I imagine he wouldn't approach setting an 8'x10' woody in his mate's garage in the same way.

 

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