[User deactivated.]

I can't comprehend how the pinky finger could be anywhere near as strong as the index finger. Perhaps this is telling that I have some gains to make! I'll give it a go next week.

Didn't know what I was talking about.

Results are in, tested with a pickup fingerboard, approx 22mm edge (right hand was almost exactly the same except for a stronger pinky in drag):



https://adobe.ly/3AO8qCO

I'm not sure what normal is supposed to look like, but I think my index fingers are very weak and my ring fingers are overly strong? If this is the case, I will start doing weekly index finger lifts.

Dan suggested he doesn't think single finger lifts are very useful for actually training because it doesn't relate to the common grip type closely enough so he recommended training pairs for better transfer.

Thanks for the heads up, I went and listened to the podcast. Surprisingly, the host's results are very close to mine in terms of the relative strength of each finger. My ring fingers take slightly more of the load and my index fingers take a bit less, but it's only 2-3% difference. His subjective experience of being good full crimped on small holds or fully open on slopers but crap in-between (i.e. half crimped / generally being strong on bigger edges) also sounds familiar to me.

Most surprising was Dan's analysis, where the areas of 'concern' were the straight pinky and crimped middle finger. I would never have guessed those were the weaker aspects of his results (and therefore mine)! Dan reckons that the host should focus on front 2 half crimp and back 2 where the pinky is straight and the ring is crimped. Very interesting! 

[shark]

My results. Thought I would be proportionately much weaker on my left hand. No surprise that my drag is way better overall. Some of the lifts did feel worryingly tweaky.

Any observations?

Crimp Left hand (combined 57.25kg)
Pinkie 8.75kg (15%)
Ring 17.5kg (31%)
Middle 18.5kg (32%)
Index 12.5kg (22%)

Crimp Right hand (combined 59.75kg)
Pinkie 11.25kg(19%)
Ring 17.5kg (29%)
Middle 18.5kg (31%)
Index 12.5kg (21%)


Drag Left hand (combined 93.75kg)
Pinkie 16.75kg (18%)
Ring 26.25kg (28%)
Middle 28.25kg (30%)
Index 22.5kg (24%)

Drag Right hand (combined 97.5kg)
Pinkie 17.5kg (18%)
Ring 27.5kg (28%)
Middle 30kg (31%)
Index 22.5kg (23%)

[Ally Smith]

Follow-up to the screen-grab Duncan did for my drag scores. Crimp position was much weaker, and felt distinctly tweaky for my left hand.

Crimp Left hand
Pinkie 13 kg
Ring 16.5 kg
Middle 21 kg
Index 15 kg

Crimp Right hand
Pinkie 14 kg
Ring 17 kg
Middle 24 kg
Index 16 kg

Drag Left hand
Pinkie 30.5 kg
Ring 30.5 kg
Middle 40.5 kg
Index 30.5 kg

Drag Right hand
Pinkie 30.5 kg
Ring 33 kg
Middle 40.5 kg
Index 30.5 kg

My take homes from this exercise:
- I have weak ring fingers proportional to their neighbours, especially in crimp position.
- Left hand in crimp position weaker across the board; especially the left index I injured 5 years ago.

[unclesomebody]

Would be great if someone just put this into a google form with the results being public. Only other questions to ask would be something along the lines of max grade ever, max grade in last 12 months, and maybe an appraisal of current form out of 10 (to give a subjective way of scoring results).

Also makes it easier to share more widely and aggregate 100+ results very quickly.

But please make the results public.

[remus]

Would be great if someone just put this into a google form with the results being public. Only other questions to ask would be something along the lines of max grade ever, max grade in last 12 months, and maybe an appraisal of current form out of 10 (to give a subjective way of scoring results).

Also makes it easier to share more widely and aggregate 100+ results very quickly.

But please make the results public.

Did somebody say data collection?

Form here https://forms.gle/ogFNb1EVzPSJineq5

Results here https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/13hPZHGEFfzWE_AEiBtMMPoELnyY20jE4BE_eHH1wzlg/edit?usp=sharing

I've set the results up as 'view only' so a rando can't go in and bork it, but if you want to play around you should be able to make your own copy and do what you want with the data.

[spidermonkey09]

Dan suggested he doesn't think single finger lifts are very useful for actually training because it doesn't relate to the common grip type closely enough so he recommended training pairs for better transfer.

Having done all this benchmarking yesterday, it was interesting but time consuming and tweaky. I'm definitely going to stick with training front 2 and back 2 in pairs I think, probably in half crimp.

If I was planning a trip to Frankenjura it would probably be worth training monos a bit.

[Hoseyb]

I been rehabbing a pulley injury on my middle finger A2 and A1.
I was recommended single finger density pulls using a homemade 18mm plywood edge attached to a theraband.
I decided to try this out on both middle fingers as I knew that the other one was dicky too. The protocol was 10secs on minute off, 5 sets twice a week. Pulling as much as is slightly uncomfortable.
I was so impressed with the results that I programmed my hangboard app so I could do all 4 fingers on both hands. This results in a 12 minute session, twice a week.
The initial session revealed several interesting things; I couldn't get my pinkie's into half crimp, my left ring finger was dangerously weak, and even accounting for the difference between drag and half crimp, my left pinkie was one of the strongest on the hand. It was obviously compensating for the ring finger.
All very interesting, and I think I'll keep going as part of general conditioning.

As a side note, the A1 was particularly slow to recover, and I found building a hand jam box and doing weighted lifts with it really helpful. I plan to get back on my jamming projects in February.

[i_a_coops]

Did somebody say data collection?

Form here https://forms.gle/ogFNb1EVzPSJineq5

Results here https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/13hPZHGEFfzWE_AEiBtMMPoELnyY20jE4BE_eHH1wzlg/edit?usp=sharing

That's quite an interesting format you're using to record the grades! Might be easier to analyse if you switched it to two separate drop downs for routes and boulders....