UKBouldering.com

Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now (Read 3397 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 20, 2022, 10:26:41 pm
11.6-7 average 160.9 up 0.4lbs

M. Still feeling a bit lousy from booster

T.  Feeling better but motivation low. Foundry. Piss poor session

W. Foundry. Paul rinsed everything. I was washed out. Gave up after an hour.

T Passport arrives. Book flight to Datca. YYFY

F. PM Foundry. Did the pink up the middle I’ve been trying. Try the yellow to the right Feel like my body has woken up and can pull hard. Nice feeling. Do well on yellow and did hard cross through on yellow to left. Lengthy session for me and didn’t feel tired at end.

S.  Hungover. PM Leaf blowing and shovelling

S. Shizzle
« Last Edit: November 21, 2022, 10:26:32 am by duncan »

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#1 Re: Cower Pub 671 14Nov -now
November 20, 2022, 11:21:47 pm
M - mobility stuff. 8 hr shift. Physio appointment pm, still happy with progress, added some assisted chin ups to rehab routine (palms in as elbow less clicky like this), plus allowing steeper (but easier) circuits or routes once a week. Was going to do rehab session and circuits afterwards but exhausted from poor sleep so just went to bed.
T - shit sleep again, 4 nights now of < 5hrs. 8 hr shift.
W - finally a better night's sleep. 8 hr shift. Fall practice at UCR, did a few mid to high 6's on the way.
T - 8 hr shift. Rehab stuff, incl a few circuits. Elbow not feeling great tbh.
F - 8 hr shift.
S - Rehab stuff, including a couple of circuits. Elbow much improved from Thursday. Chin ups seem ok.
S - pm travel. Writing from Siurana, arrived late. Weather sketch tomorrow, but psyched for a couple of weeks of trying not to overdo it on .my elbow...

71 kg
2022 plank total 312 min

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#2 Re: Cower Pub 671 14Nov -now
November 21, 2022, 12:07:48 am
M: G1. 3FD MH 90% 10s 20mm -10lb. OH hangs up to +10lb 10s 20mm, some discomfort / pain but not bad. L One-arm MH 90% 10s Middle BM 2k -35lb. Some boulders including a harder V5.

W: Clear Creek Canyon. Exploring a long forgotten area. Went to Glaven V5, lowball steep boulder. Managed to put it down quickly with no pain. Went up to a square-cut arete I'd found for an FA, not really possible. Finished on this red wall where there was a crimpy vert V6 called Agent Orange. Anti-style and didn't want to try hard due to pinky but managed to make good progress, pull OH on crimps and almost send. Mate ripped a hold off high up that may have prevented us.


S: Three Sisters Park. Straight to Prince Charles V8 which we brushed and cleaned. Body nowhere near strong enough for it but good to do a load of the moves. Moved onto Bbrother's Lookout and flashed Wisdom V4, best boulder I've doen there. Eventually found Subterranean Wall and I did a V4ish boulder to finish the day. Felt pretty worked as the highest volume I'd done for a while


S: 4 mile walk near Marshall Reservoir

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1686
  • Karma: +62/-1
#3 Re: Cower Pub 671 14Nov -now
November 21, 2022, 07:15:15 am


S - pm travel. Writing from Siurana, arrived late. Weather sketch tomorrow, but psyched for a couple of weeks of trying not to overdo it on .my elbow...


We left on Saturday evening to come to Margalef for a day. I think we’re going to head down to Chulilla today or tomorrow but will drop you a message if we pass by.

Kind of tempted to come and try my project but we’re also running out of time now  :(

Have a great time there!

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1686
  • Karma: +62/-1
#4 Re: Cower Pub 671 14Nov -now
November 21, 2022, 07:33:31 am
M. Went for coffee in Sitges. Did a wash and went to a campsite.

T. Had a shower (and it was hot!)!!!! Did a couch to 5k run and then had another shower. Bloody marvellous. Drove back to Siurana.

W. L’Aparador. Back on the 7c+ from last week. Draws in bolt to bolt and dropped the top on redpoint, twice.

T. C25k run.

F. L’Aparador again. Very cold day! Two redpoints. First one dropped with 2 foot moves left. Second one with 1.5 foot moves left. Could probably do with refining the top crux, but I’m so close it’s hard to not have a redpoint. Got a plan for next time. Seven tie-ins now and officially my longest project (ever) I think.

S. L’Aparador. Dropped the top again. Zora suggested I spend some time seeing if I can find an easier sequence. Turns out I could! Did it 5/6 times in a row. Two more burns but didn’t make it to this part - completely spent. Took the draws out.

S. Day in Margalef at Can Torxa with some Americans we met in Siurana. Did a nice 6a+, got a bouldery 7a second go and then flashed the classic 7a there. Good knows how, felt ruined and like I was off at every move!

Zora cruised the bouldery one after me. Her third 7th grade route and first in a session!



It’s been an interesting week trying a project. Learned quite a lot. I think by the first redpoint (2 working goes) I was getting to the last two foot moves and failing due to just not having enough oomph for my sequence (very shouldery). I got here every redpoint.

If I’d have worked out the easier sequence at the beginning I think it might have gone first try… it really made a lot of difference.

It makes me think of most things I’ve done on this trip. I’ve not pushed myself at all (think 3 goes is my longest project). And all off them I’ve dropped the onsight, going to the top and got straight onto redpoint with what was probably an imperfect sequence. This route was just a bit hard to do that with unfortunately. Lesson learned. Don’t drop the top 5 times before trying to refine beta :chair:

So 7c+ evaded me for now. Hopefully get one in Chulilla instead 🤞🏻

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +29/-10
    • Climberbiker.
#5 Re: Cower Pub 671 14Nov -now
November 21, 2022, 07:54:45 am
Thanks Shark for starting off the week round up.

Monday -

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
Four 90% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 10kg
Four 90% hangs open hand. BW plus 15kg
Felt good


Tuesday

Projecting purples at the Depot after great afternoon of facilitating a team coaching session with Exawatt.

Usual warm up. Then onto purples.
V5-7 Project Session purples/yellows
◦ Purple slab undercling 6 goes. Great problem fell from last hold twice.
◦ Purple steep prow. 4goes. Couldn’t do the last cross over
✓ Steep positive holds. 2nd go. This should of been a flash. Half arsed pull to the last hold.
Finished with a 6b on the circuit board. Did two laps.

Wednesday
Rest day

Thursday
Rest day

Friday
Finger board session, the same as Monday plus did a set of pinch repeaters on the Quad block for experimentation.


Saturday

Went to the depot in the morning. Was there 90mins and packed a lot in the session. Despite 10am start, it was really cold in there. Warmed up with two blues, 5 blacks, 3 reds. Then feet on Campus Pulls 2-5match
22mm. L& R
2-5.5. Match L& R
22mm 2-4-6.5 feet on. L& R

Board10 session. 3min rests
First 5 all first go. 6th, 2 tries. No send. 7th, 2 tries, no send. 8th, 3 tries no send. Feeling powered out by now. 9th, 3 tries. Powered out, nothing in the fingers. Couldn’t get power out of the crimp.  Didn’t bother trying a 10th problem.

On reflection, too many problems & fatigued from max hangs yesterday.


Sunday
Conditioning at the depot.
Super sets on squats and bench press 3x8.
Super Sets on Military Press and Dips 4x5
Core circuit

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 610
  • Karma: +33/-0
#6 Re: Cower Pub 671 14Nov -now
November 21, 2022, 10:16:05 am
T: Max hangs 6x6s +30kg, did some mono pickups on bad finger
T: Parisellas Cave. Repeated rockatrocity after a little work. Got on Hatchatrocity, managed to match previous high point (flake matched on rocka, hitting the triangle after but not engaging), I think if I held the triangle I'd be in with a good shout of doing the next move, and if I did that move I'd likely get to the final move (which is heartbreakingly dropable). Repeated cave life crux 2nd try just to make sure it was still wired for future sessions. happy overall as not been to the cave in 6 months.
S: Tried lily's left hand did all moves bar 1 in a go or 2 spent about 90 mins failing on this one move, think I needed a stiffer shoe for the heel toe cam. Felt still fresh after as had basically just been resting and trying 1 move that was on big holds. So had 45 mins on the moonboard on the way home. Managed to get another 7A+ benchmark done (probably should have rested after the unsuccessful session in hindsight, but my gf wanted to go the wall as it was too cold for her in the mountains).

Hamstring feels sore still from Saturday, possibly overcooked it on the right leg. Hopefully it feels closer to better tomorrow as I could barely walk yesterday!

mr chaz

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 452
  • Karma: +59/-0
#7 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 21, 2022, 10:51:37 am
Power Club:

Not much to report except for one board session mid week, on good form and sent 3 short term projects in quick succession.

More generally, I have cut down on drink and been eating better for the last few months with good effects (who'd have thought it!) Waist has trimmed up a bit and I feel lighter on the wall. I've let this go a tad the last fortnight so time to get back on it for the run up to Xmas.

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +40/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#8 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 21, 2022, 12:11:42 pm
M: Rest
T: AW - On me tod so warmed up doing some repeaters and pullups, a few routes on the auto belays up to F6b+ then tried a F7c a good few times (hard)... Finished by doing a few more pink blocs (V5-7ish)... Hard session.
W: Sore
T: AW with daughter - She wasn't feeling it - Some BW repeaters and some @ 90%
F: AW with GF - Routes up to F6c then tried a new F7b... Did all the moves pretty easily, but very teccie and had to spend a while figuring them out... Tired!
S: Surfing @ Cayton - Big and messy! Got battered and me mate nearly drowned...
S: Surfing @ Cayton - Much nicer (2ft and clean as you like) but felt like someone had replaced my arms with those jelly snake sweets - Shame really as looked like a great day to make some progress... Good to get in the water though! Strengthened my resolve to surf through the winter....

Training plan starts properly on the 28th (had confirmation this week) so going to take it easy this week... Interested to see what they have in store for me.

Yossarian

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2354
  • Karma: +351/-5
#9 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 21, 2022, 12:42:40 pm
Duncan's finger test originated out of a conversation we had re the Nugget interview with Dan V (https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nugget+dan+varian&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8) re identifying lazy fingers in open / crimped positions and possible significant gains by (re)activating them. Probably worth discussing in more detail in its own thread!

2 weeks

M - Wall. Best board session this year, despite being very heavy still. Did various things (that have eluded me for months) first go, and various other things static. Brief play on harder problems downstairs, but a couple of splits hampered progress.
T - Various box / furniture shifting, plus yoga and hip stretches
W
T - Wall. Daytime and nice and quite. Went methodically through new wave set (rather than cherry-picking things that look like they might suit me) which was hard and quite humbling. Exhausted by the end.
F - Managed to clear enough room in garage for deadlift area (and bench, freestanding fingerboard setup when I get around to that). Did some moderate deadlifts (for the first time in 5 years?), weighted wide pull-ups, etc which all felt quite hard work.
S - Wall. Fun little session on the board but after that my enthusiasm and energy levels waned.
S - Muddy walk, followed by some press weights, yoga and stretching.

M - Wall. Another great Monday board sesh. Felt quite light (even though I'm not) and strong.
T
W - Wall. Decided to work through various comp style problems that I've been ignoring. Everything seemed to take lots of goes and battered by the end. Think I was there for about 4 hours. Did yoga when I got home. Shoulder injury flared up again.
T - Wall. Wasn't expecting much as had spent most of the day feeling tired, but daughter had squad session so I had to ago and actually felt ok once warmed up. Decided to project a really hard thing (but with ok holds) and had quite a lot of fun.
F
S - Wall. Pottered around,  trying not to overdo it. Tried to flash various mid 6s with mixed success. 7 year old impressed me and a few other dads. Fun times.
S - Wall. Went with the intention of doing some volume, but got sucked into trying some other stuff, plus a bit of circuit board and foot-on campus.

Generally feeling strong and much more mobile (thanks to yoga / stretching, though could def be doing more of both). Still over 100kg, but judging by belt / trousers I think a chunk of that is creatine related.

Having previously abandoned plans to go abroad this winter due to lack of preparation, I've spend the past few days reconsidering. Kids are away with their mum visiting grandparents in Australia, and so (with no serious work other than a couple of in progress books to write) I think I might go to Margalef from 9th Dec onwards. Have no idea what I might be able to haul myself up but, as Duncan pointed out, I should look at it as a jump-start to getting stuff done in 2023 rather than a tick-fest that I've trained all year for. Hopefully finalising this later on in the week...

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#10 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 21, 2022, 01:26:18 pm
T - Moonboard. Did Lichtblick and worked others.

Su - rain dodging at Almscliff. Fell off Stu's Left in the stand. I can do this in decent connies, but when am I going Almscliff in decent connies.

Rested fingers this week as felt tired and worked from 3 sessions previous week.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#11 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 21, 2022, 02:59:42 pm
M - 10k run
T - not much
W - was going to run, but couldn't motivate myself out of car in horizontal rain.
T - train to Edinburgh. Biblical rain.
F - squelch through more biblical rain to Alien Bloc. Had considered Alien Rock to appease Kyle's preference for routes, but would have been a long trek to Leith. Good session, avoided anything too crimpy or any pockets. Lots of mileage on variety of angles, including some nice slabs for a change. No finger pain, but swollen again afterwards. Be nice to have a decent bouldering center closer to home, might be happening soon https://www.block10.co/
S - train cancellations due to shit weather. left early to get on what we could before rugby. Eventually got home in 5 hours (compared to 1.5 hours on the wat there). Flooding everywhere!
S - nothing. Some kettlebells in evening.


Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#12 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 21, 2022, 04:13:18 pm
T - Moonboard. Did Lichtblick and worked others.

Su - rain dodging at Almscliff. Fell off Stu's Left in the stand. I can do this in decent connies, but when am I going Almscliff in decent connies.

Rested fingers this week as felt tired and worked from 3 sessions previous week.

Shit! How could I forget that while warming up for Almscliff I found some new foot beta for Felix's problem on my board (Weak Willed  :boxing:) and got that done. Highlight of the week.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#13 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 21, 2022, 09:58:31 pm
Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM pull ups, goblet squat, push ups.
Tue - AM as usual. PM DL from blocks, heavy. Press.
Wed - AM as usual. PM loaded carries, lower back.
Thu - AM as usual. PM ab wheel, thruster.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - AM as usual. PM board climbing, set and climbed a new problem, did current project in two halves.
Sun - boxing bag tabatas. Brilliant session after partying lots the night before.





CapitalistPunter

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: +21/-15
#14 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 22, 2022, 08:42:49 pm
Climbing has made my fingers vastly superior to that of the average man. Today when using my Centurion®️ Card from American Express (a very prestigious credit card, I wouldn't expect average people to know of it), I was holding it lightly between two fingers, using less than 1% of my power. Still however, the cashier couldn't extract the card from my grasp. To be fair to him, I was using my 2nd and 3rd strongest fingers, and once I realized my mistake, I laid the card flat in my hand, but he still had trouble as the friction between my carefully maintained callouses and card was too great for him to overcome. Eventually the cashier and customer behind me were able to work together and pry the card from my incredibly strong and dexterous hand, not without much difficulty however. I tremble to think what will happen to the average man after I complete my first V3

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#15 Re: Cower Pub 671 14 Nov - now
November 22, 2022, 09:50:53 pm
Power is nothing without control

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal