[Will Hunt]

I match the horn your left hand is on off a left heel and a right toe pressing these days (think there's a vid of Ben Freeman doing it thag way somewhere) then a slap to the top but without cutting. There's also apparently beta for the end involving a high left toe hook in the groove, but I'm not sure how that works. I used to just power to the middle of the top hold, there's one part which is marginally better

When you say you match the left-hand horn, do you mean the final LH sidepull which you go again from to grab the horn on the top of the boulder? So you get the jug out right, move your LH up, match that LH, then RH to the top of the boulder?

[yetix]

the left hand match I mean is like this.

The horn being the big spike that impales your left hand in the palm if you have too many goes!

I seem to recall going a little more rightwards than Ryan does here for the mantle, not sure which way of mantling would be easier, but can imagine either would be tough.

[Will Hunt]

the left hand match I mean is like this.

The horn being the big spike that impales your left hand in the palm if you have too many goes!

I seem to recall going a little more rightwards than Ryan does here for the mantle, not sure which way of mantling would be easier, but can imagine either would be tough.

OK. I hit the horn, feet come off and I fall off the swing. Keeping that heel on would solve the problem but not sure if there's a way to succeed in that other than just being a better climber.

[Bradders]

Then onto Vitruvian Man. T-shirts off! Can consistently do all of this except holding the swing at the top. Had several hundred goes and lots of torn skin on the final hold. I wonder if there is a trick to this? At the end (when it was too late) someone suggested that you could turn the right-hand jug to a partial undercut/sidepull before chucking for the top which may help to kill the swing.

I match the horn your left hand is on off a left heel and a right toe pressing these days (think there's a vid of Ben Freeman doing it thag way somewhere) then a slap to the top but without cutting. There's also apparently beta for the end involving a high left toe hook in the groove, but I'm not sure how that works. I used to just power to the middle of the top hold, there's one part which is marginally better

I think he's talking about going to the horn thing, not what you do once you have it.

Will - few things you could try next time:

- I always bump my RH back down the hold a bit, I.e. it's certainly not an undercut but just holding it low down the hold.
- For the left hand move to the top I make sure to use a narrow heel shoe for the heel hook, and I compress with my right on an obvious diagonal thing to create opposition against the left heel.
- Then lastly to make it less wild I go left hand first to a sloper just below the horn, then to the horn. There's a good bit of the sloper so if you get that then go again it's much more controlled.
- Once you have the horn just gun it with your right hand to the top, it's really good.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4rl84dDs-M/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I've thought about it a lot as I had to have it so dialled to do Iron Man!