Adam Ondra with Tomáš Sobotka climbs Alles Frei on a project in Labské údolí, Czechia. Amazing video, of course.
There's a tied-off something just over the lip, visible around 6' 53". A rivet? Neither of them clip it.
In Czechia chalk is kind-of accepted on routes that are not historical. Do not quote me on this.In Germany chalk is illegal in Elbsandsteingebirge. They pretend it is because MgCO3 deteriorate sandstone, but it is clearly because it makes climbing easier.
To be clear I think there were some knots in various cracks in places, which I think maybe the locals might have trusted enough to reduced the number of bolts. Still makes my heart race thinking back.
The process of a first ascent in Bohemia is quite apparent in this (quality) videohttps://youtu.be/JZvhIlzV8Ec?t=964Start at about 16 min if you want to just view the FA process
They have these things called UFOs now apparently which are like big hexes made from webbing and sticky rubber. I just learnt from the website that in some areas you’re not even allowed to use the rubber versions though
I wouldn’t say don’t go to Ardspach/Teplice as it’s worth going just to marvel at what was climbed back in the 50s. We get v excited about Whillans and Brown but tbh the Czechs were doing much harder and more dangerous FAs in that era. Honestly there’s not much to do at Ardspach unless you’re comfortable on sighting E5s or are very solid on wide cracks.
You’d have to get a guidebook Duncan but my memory of Labske was it was sportingly bolted but not crazy. This photo of K is on an immaculate 6c+.
Bear in mind that when we were in Labske K was not really into it (she did lead some bold stuff mind) and when I was in Ardspach one E9 leader in our team refused Point Blank (hint) to lead anything!
If I was going to recommend old school sparsely bolted stuff I'd say Meteora was more enjoyable.
Sounds pretty nuts knots