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Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022 (Read 4154 times)

SA Chris

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M - no run, kids opted for guising over athletics.
T - a bit of kettlebells
W - intended running in Stonehaven while Kyle swimming, but horizontal rain put me off, so sat in car and read.
T - not a lot, some kettlebells I think.
F - naff all.
S - back to wall. Taped finger up and had a relatively easy session, avoiding anything vaguely crimpy. A bit sore after, but to be expected.
S - naff all.

Lazy week, still feeling it after Illuminator. Back on the wagon as of today.

Coops_13

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M: G1. 3FD MH 85% 10s 20mm -17.5lb. Tested pinky (probably a bit early. Managed BW OH 20mm 10s with minimal pain.) L One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb.

T: G1. 3FD MH 85% 10s 20mm -17.5lb. Loaded pinky with feet on floor. One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb. 10 mins bike

S: G1. 3FD strength repeaters -25lb. Ramped up to 10s 20mm HC (all four fingers) *3sets. Also did 14mm 10s OH hang. One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb. 1 V2, 4 V3, 3 V4 boulders. No pain but lacking confidence. 10 mins bike. Core

Rocksteady

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Some good updates above, lots of training and climbing happening.

Mon: Nothing

Tue: Did long max hangs from the Beastmaking book, 20mm x 20 seconds x 3 at bodyweight. Then did smaller holds 14mm x 7 seconds x 3 at bodyweight. Felt fine despite tweaky fingers.

Wed: Weights, 3 sets of 10 session, Shoulder press, bench press, seated rows. All at pre-half term levels which was all I was going for.

Thu: Routes. Got sucked into a playing around session probably generating 'wasted miles'. Climbed well on a steep 7a before hitting a stopper move at the top. My climbing partner flashed a 7b and made it look easy, I tried it and got absolutely shut down. Lots of pinches that I felt awful clipping from. Good clue that I should be training more pinches.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Bouldering session where I tried a split between strength training then aero fitness, ARCing for 30 minutes. First part of the session did a boulder triple of hard problems. Managed to tick two projects from my last session which was good. Did a few problems campus style, and 1-4-5 on the board as hasn't campused for ages and wanted to see where I was at. Then had a short rest and just climbing continuously at easy problems for 30 min. This seemed to work quite well but I felt very tired by the end.

Sun: Sore in shoulders from the previous day.

Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?

yetix

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2 weeks as not done in a while, beforehand I did density hangs x2 weekly and was mainly trying longer problems on the boulder hut board for about 6 weeks

M FB testing lattice edge upto +35kg for 6s, Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger

T BoulderHut Board, repeated 4 problems Id previously spent a session on each, fell off last and 2nd to last move on 4 others which Id done similar on

W rest

T hour at sleep hallow boulder, flashed the 7A, did the 7B+ 3rd go. Tried the 8A and did all the moves to the 7B stand. Got rained off before trying the 7B stand properly so need to check that out next time. FB 6x6s +27.5kg, Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger

F Homeboard session: Repeated 4 problems from easy to moderate difficulty. Failed to repeat a problem from previous session which Id tried over 3 sessions. Managed to send a new project which Id spent 2 sessions on, tried to do a harder finish afterwards which I did in halves

S rest

S BoulderHut Board Repeated 3 moderates as part of the end of my warmup, tried to add a hard sitter to one with a slightly harder finish. Managed to do the stand with the harder finish and fell off the last move x3 from the sitter (11th move) did 3 problems in 1-3 goes which I'd tried briefly before

M rest

T FB 6x6s +27.5kg, Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger. PM Boardroom on Moonboard (2019). Did 9 benchmarks upto 7A, failed on 2 other 7A benchmarks

W rest

T Boardroom Moonboard (2019) did 10xMoonboard benchmarks upto 7A failed on 2 other 7A benchmarks

F rest

S AM Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger. Tried to get out, got rained off, back on the moonboard, did 6xbenchmarks upto 7A

S rest

Volume has been quite high recently as psyched to train for the first time in a while. Just before these 2 weeks I fell off the last move of impropa Opera sitter 3 times, hoping for a dry spell to go back and see how it feels again, though I think I need to be going slightly more often to get it over the line really...

Bradders

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Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though

Yes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help.

Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move.

Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here ;)



Bradders

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Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?

Yes, have exactly this in my plan atm, but the aerocap is extremely low intensity ARCing, about 1/5 pump and mainly for recovery from the ancap session (boulder triples).

spidermonkey09

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Jesus, you must have been strong on that LH!  :o

yetix

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Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though

Yes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help.

Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move.

Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here ;)



Don't fancy trying pacman with the OG sequence? Doesn't go through pit the way Ryan did I don't think, whether it should be the same problem if going via pit or a diff problem idk?

Duma

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M - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift. Elbow seemed ok after circuits on Sunday.
T - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift  Rehab stuff. (No circuits as at home)
W - mobility stuff. Indoor routes eve, 13 routes, mostly 5 - 6b+ and nothing more than slightly overhanging. Did do one slabby and one vert 6c+ though. Elbow felt ok but worried might have overdone the volume.
T - mobility stuff. Elbow still feeling ok, a relief after the reaction last week. Run, 6k, 29 min, flat, pavement. 2 min plank.
F - mobility stuff, rehab stuff including 3 x 6b circuit, and some slabby black problems as I was dying of boredom
S - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift. Elbow seemed to survive yesterday's bouldering with only mild reaction.
S - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift.

71 kg
2022 plank total 294 min

Bradders

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Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though

Yes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help.

Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move.

Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here ;)



Don't fancy trying pacman with the OG sequence? Doesn't go through pit the way Ryan did I don't think, whether it should be the same problem if going via pit or a diff problem idk?

Yeah absolutely just wondered if the new hold might help for that move too, as an intermediate maybe.

Although I think it'd be similar difficulty either way. Either do one massive move (which is amazing!) or the crux of Pit and lots of other tacky tensiony moves as per Wheelbarrow.

Jesus, you must have been strong on that LH!  :o

Haha if you look closely I'm boning the shit out of it! But seriously I always thought that little slot was quite nice  :shrug:

shark

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M. Miller Fork, the Infirmary. Deliberately eschewed the sandbag warm ups and dogged up the super steep Last Rites 5.12b which I’d tried earlier in the trip. Air humid and back of some slots damp. Redpointed it without drama.

T. Military Wall. First visit here. Humid. Warmed on an 11b. Eddie did his carefully selected route Forearm Follies 5.12b (long, steep and pumpy of course). I flashed through the low crux but got a strange pump in my left arm that I couldn’t shake off. Didn’t make the most of the available rests and then got super pumped on the the steep headwall. Kept slapping for another 10 feet but in the end couldn’t even hold large holds and peeled off. Couldn’t get back on the rock and came down. Destroyed. A second go would have been futile.

W. Back to Military Wall. Dogged the first 40 feet of Forearm Follies to warm up then managed to redpoint it fine. Eddie keen for Long Wall but he got spat off his chosen route. I did a lovely wall climb Game Boy which was about 35metres long given 11c but felt more like 11d.

T./F. 24 hours door to door getting home with only 1 hours sleep. Flight delayed. Ignored instructions at Dublin meant I caught my connecting flight to Manchester although my luggage didn’t.
Had a lovely walk with the dog around Higgar/Owler Tor when I got home.

S. AM Leaf shovelling

S.

Great trip. Some stellar routes done with Swedish Fish standing out in particular. Plotting to go out again next year maybe combined with Sonia doing the New York marathon.

It was a downer coming back last time and I was quite glum for about 6 weeks. Hope I will keep my psyche this time. Planning to do a benchmarking session with Steve Mac this week to take a view of where I’m at as well as a Varian sling test to check the relative strengths of my digits as I’ve lost direction with my fingerboarding.


Planning to do a benchmarking session with Steve Mac this week to take a view of where I’m at as well as well as a Varian sling test to check the relative strengths of my digits as I’ve lost direction with my fingerboarding.
« Last Edit: November 08, 2022, 09:08:06 am by shark »

James Malloch

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M. C25k run

T. Genat - bumped into sone friends randomly. Climbed Amalthée L1 (7b). Took 3 goes but felt really hard. Wouldn’t grumble with a + on it.

W. Sibada in the morning. Put the drawers in a 7a for Zora but didn’t do anything else. She got real close but then the sun came. C25k run after

T. Went to Andorra for the day, then on to Spain.

F. Arrived in Siurana. C25k.

S. Climbed at espero primavera. Did a 6b+, 6c and 6a+. All runout but nice routes.

S. Laziest day ever.


Mike Highbury

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S - Walked 8km including the living hell that is The North Face shop on Regent’s Street.

Come on, Duncan, you know better than that. Why didn't you pop round the corner to Bond St and shop there? https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/capsule/the-north-face-gucci?eu_productstnfw3=men-tnf-w3-eu


Nutty

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M. C25k run
...
W. Sibada in the morning. Put the drawers in a 7a for Zora but didn’t do anything else. She got real close but then the sun came. C25k run after
...
F. Arrived in Siurana. C25k.
I was reading "C25k" as circa twenty-five kilometres and thought you'd massively increased your running distances before the penny finally dropped.

Duma

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I was also very impressed, was I wrong? What does it mean?

SA Chris

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Couch to 5k

James Malloch

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Yep couch to 5k. Done 3 weeks so far so only running for 9 minutes across 4 intervals (jumps to 16 this week) so just under 2km at the moment.

I messed my knees up years ago and then stopped running. Whenever I start I get injured unless I take it really slowly like this. Done my running physio 50+ days in a row now so feeling much stronger and the runs are nice and easy.

After 9 weeks you’re running 30 mins. Then I’ll just probably start upping the distance one day, and then doing a 30 minute run one other day to keep topped up.

Bloody knees….

duncan

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S - Walked 8km including the living hell that is The North Face shop on Regent’s Street.

Come on, Duncan, you know better than that. Why didn't you pop round the corner to Bond St and shop there? https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/capsule/the-north-face-gucci?eu_productstnfw3=men-tnf-w3-eu

Ha! Even the teenager recognises this is bollocks.

Overpriced hats off to The North Face management team though, 25 years ago the company very nearly went bust after never stopping exploring the outer limits of accounting practice. These days they are one of the four or five acceptable brands for a fashion-conscious thirteen year old.

seankenny

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Sat: Bouldering session where I tried a split between strength training then aero fitness, ARCing for 30 minutes. First part of the session did a boulder triple of hard problems. Managed to tick two projects from my last session which was good. Did a few problems campus style, and 1-4-5 on the board as hasn't campused for ages and wanted to see where I was at. Then had a short rest and just climbing continuously at easy problems for 30 min. This seemed to work quite well but I felt very tired by the end.

Sun: Sore in shoulders from the previous day.

Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?

Not a power clubber but yes, have done the strength/aerocap split session. I think it’s excellent, and put a couple of summers of decent-for-me performance mostly down to doing them. The only downside is that they are really tiring and made me ravenous.

tommytwotone

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Just realised I've got an update!


STG / MTG: land on my left leg
LTG: Font 7a outdoors again


W: trip to Huddz to give my crutches back. Good feedback from the physio re: recovery etc, and got a new suite of exercises so I'm starting rehab proper now.


T: LSD evening. Did my physio in the gym, then a very easy potter around V0 - V2 stuff I knew I wasn't going to risk falling off. Left leg / thigh very weak but nice to be moving again.


Sun: Swimming with daughter - a good hour involving a few lengths of "proper" swimming now she's competent in the pool.

Yossarian

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M - Wall. Shoulder still uncomfortable and skin in quite a bad state with various splits. Did some stuff on the board and warm-ups felt great. Other things seemed to aggravate shoulder tho, so kept it short. Went downstairs and managed some new links on the hard prow problem I've been working on. Tried to leave some oomph in the tank.
T - Back to the wall with the kids. Did lots of easier stuff around the centre with them, and then some more goes on project. Good fun, but skin was v thin by the end.
W
T - Wall, again with the kids. Longer harder version of Tuesday (3 1/2 hours?) with a good mix of variety, burl, and projecting. 7 year old had a bit of a breakthrough session, mainly I think because it was the first time in ages he's been to the wall more than once in a week. Fairly exhausted by the end.
F
S - Wall. Tired. Bit of board, and then tried to have decent hard goes on things with lots of rest in between.
S - 8km walk

Still weight far too much and it's not really dropping because I've struggled to get out for walks or runs because of the weather. But am climbing some board problems better than when I was substantially lighter. Aiming to see if problem foot will take some running in the coming week, plus add in some more structured strength stuff, and try to do yoga / stretching more regularly.

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W: trip to Huddz to give my crutches back. Good feedback from the physio re: recovery etc, and got a new suite of exercises so I'm starting rehab proper now.


T: LSD evening. Did my physio in the gym, then a very easy potter around V0 - V2 stuff I knew I wasn't going to risk falling off. Left leg / thigh very weak but nice to be moving again.

Great to hear this Tommy.

SA Chris

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Missed the NNFN explaining your unfortunate mishap / act of stupidity (delete where appropriate). Hope you recover soon.

tommytwotone

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Cheers - I was probably so pissed off I didn't post it!

TL:DR is an awkward straight-legged, twisting landing dropping off from about 2 holds up a V0, which I was downclimbing (to be safe!) having topped a V5 or something.

Torn meniscus, and having had orhtroscopy / treatment for that, also a microfracture treatment for some arthritis they found.

Beginning of the end now I hope. Went to wall again last night and it's already feeling a bit more solid.


 

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