Will - Good effort at Trowbarrow. Sounds like you're on good form.
Any recommendations for shoulder strength dependent problems in the 7C-8A range to keep me entertained before I aim to peak over Christmas?
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 07, 2022, 09:47:36 amWill - Good effort at Trowbarrow. Sounds like you're on good form.Do not be fooled. I had never tried it in its old state but a hold has broken on Pit Problem leaving a decent flat crimp in the place of a sidepull. It felt significantly easier than Ned's, though on Ned's I couldn't seem to get my heel/toe onto the first LH hold so ended up having to hold a huge swing on the far left glued crimp which felt absolutely desperate.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 07, 2022, 09:47:36 amAny recommendations for shoulder strength dependent problems in the 7C-8A range to keep me entertained before I aim to peak over Christmas? Off the top of my head:Press kneeling/sitting starts at Rubicon? (More lat than shoulder, but kinda similar; I remember thinking that it felt like someone was punching my left lat repeatedly while moving my body from the position I would catch the LH in to the position I would need to be in to them move)Palmed and dangerous at Froggatt? (Only played for 5 min so not really sure how much it's shoulder vs tricep vs wrist strength)
Shoulders are feeing beastly though!
I just watched a video of The Press and, relatively, that is my strongest position. Looks good as a potentially flattering problem to try whilst low on psych! Does it seep? I've heard the holds can be quite savage on skin at Rubicon.
On a separate note, having read that you've enjoyed 3D roof climbing in the past, I think you might enjoy Jelly of the Beast at Odin's Cave that climbs right-to-left all the way across the roof/prow at the entrance.
Pit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!
Monday - assessment. Max hangs for 5 seconds on the 20mm (52.5kgs) and 2-rep pullup max (40kgs). Currently weigh at around 75kgs. Did some climbing indoors. Always good to know that you're strong even if you're shit.
Duncan - Basing your training plan on relatively poor scores is never a bad thing. It gives you a better run up.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 07, 2022, 09:47:36 amShoulders are feeing beastly though! Liam - do you do any specific shoulder / press training beyond those sorts of moves on your board?I don’t think my shoulders are necessarily weak, but having recently injured myself doing a powerful press on my RH shoulder I’m interested in anything I can do to prevent that sort of thing from reoccurring.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on November 07, 2022, 10:40:52 amPit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!That's interesting, if it's the sidepull I'm thinking of I would never have thought it might break. How big is the edge now? I need to go back to Trowbarrow. Love it there but it's been a long time since I last went.
Conversely I thought that the sit (which I didn't do) felt like a trivial addition! I'm pretty sure I was starting from the furthest hold on the left.
Quote from: Bradders on November 07, 2022, 11:49:21 amQuote from: spidermonkey09 on November 07, 2022, 10:40:52 amPit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!That's interesting, if it's the sidepull I'm thinking of I would never have thought it might break. How big is the edge now? I need to go back to Trowbarrow. Love it there but it's been a long time since I last went.Its the right hand crimpy sidepull you pulled on with when doing Pit Problem from a stand. Based on where the water was running yesterday I think water must have been getting down the back of it. The edge its left behind is reasonably big, maybe 12mm, but quite specific in how you hold it and slopes the wrong way. Its obviously easy to get your fingers on it correctly when stood on the ground (!), much harder when you're climbing into it from the sit. I had a brief go at the sit yesterday and think that will be worth 7B+ now, having probably been 7C before, but only if started matched on the lowest edge. Starting with crossed hands like I've seen a few videos do on the old version (sorry Yetix ) misses the hardest move and will add little to nothing to the stand as it is now I don't think.
but focus on general strength for gastons, which I've thought about quite a lot.
Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though
Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?
Quote from: yetix on November 07, 2022, 12:40:22 pmCurious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc thoughYes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help. Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move. Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here
Quote from: Bradders on November 07, 2022, 04:10:46 pmQuote from: yetix on November 07, 2022, 12:40:22 pmCurious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc thoughYes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help. Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move. Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here Don't fancy trying pacman with the OG sequence? Doesn't go through pit the way Ryan did I don't think, whether it should be the same problem if going via pit or a diff problem idk?
Jesus, you must have been strong on that LH!
S - Walked 8km including the living hell that is The North Face shop on Regent’s Street.
M. C25k run...W. Sibada in the morning. Put the drawers in a 7a for Zora but didn’t do anything else. She got real close but then the sun came. C25k run after...F. Arrived in Siurana. C25k.
Quote from: duncan on November 07, 2022, 10:02:43 amS - Walked 8km including the living hell that is The North Face shop on Regent’s Street. Come on, Duncan, you know better than that. Why didn't you pop round the corner to Bond St and shop there? https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/capsule/the-north-face-gucci?eu_productstnfw3=men-tnf-w3-eu
Sat: Bouldering session where I tried a split between strength training then aero fitness, ARCing for 30 minutes. First part of the session did a boulder triple of hard problems. Managed to tick two projects from my last session which was good. Did a few problems campus style, and 1-4-5 on the board as hasn't campused for ages and wanted to see where I was at. Then had a short rest and just climbing continuously at easy problems for 30 min. This seemed to work quite well but I felt very tired by the end.Sun: Sore in shoulders from the previous day.Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?
W: trip to Huddz to give my crutches back. Good feedback from the physio re: recovery etc, and got a new suite of exercises so I'm starting rehab proper now.T: LSD evening. Did my physio in the gym, then a very easy potter around V0 - V2 stuff I knew I wasn't going to risk falling off. Left leg / thigh very weak but nice to be moving again.