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Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022 (Read 4153 times)

Duncan Disorderly

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Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 09:13:10 am
Power Club:

M: Mileage @ AW - Up to F6c
T: Nowt
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Lettuce testing session @ AW - 20mm edge +10Kg 7s, 2 x Pullups +15Kg... Crap scores but good to know that a summer of climbing outside has left me weak but still able to get up some tricky stuff... Interesting to see that even though my fingers strength is a bit crap it's not as bad as my pull strength!! - Am tempted to have another go this week as I did have a very heavy weekend so could be still suffering the after effects but am also tempted to just submit as is and get the plan written so I can see some good progress from here...
S: Nowt
S: Routes and steep bouldering @ AW - Fell off lots, did some V5-7 problems....

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 09:23:27 am
A somewhat lacklustre week in which I continually procrastinated on climbing stuff.

Mon - Had a random day booked off work which was intended for Northumberland. Went to Trowbarrow for the first time and had a surprisingly nice time. Did Shallow Grave, Ned's Problem (this felt by far the hardest thing all day), The Groove, The Pit Problem, and Funk Phenomenon. Also had a good go on Vitruvian Man and got to last handhold on the left before the slap to the top but powered out trying to lift my heel up to set up for that. Feels like this might go if tried earlier in the session so keen for a return.

Su - attempted to join Jim at Trowbarrow but car trouble cancelled that plan. Had a board session in the late afternoon. Can't do the hard move on Weak Willed as can't stick a cut loose; did repeat a couple of 6Bs though, one of which had eluded me a few weeks ago so there is progress at least.

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#2 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 09:42:14 am
 A much better week than the last few.
A deload week 


Monday -

Rest day.

Tuesday
Campus & circuit board at the Depot
Warm up was usual 3 blues, 3 blacks, 2 reds
4 feet on Campus Pulls 2-5match
22mm. LRLR
22mm 2-4-6.5 feet on LRLR

Campus

1-3-5. LRLR
1-4-5. LRLR
1-3-5.5 Hitting the rung. Movement in bottom hand is coming back. LRLR

4on 4off circuit board. 6b+ circuits
Completed first two 4min blocks then 2.5min 2min. 
Need to know them better. Great pump. 

Wednesday
Peloton & stretching

Thursday
90% max hangs
4x BW + 10kg Half crimp
3 x BW + 15 kg. Open hand

Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Projecting the new purple circuit at the Depot.
A good session. Did 4 problems.
first 5th try, second 4th try, third 2nd try, Fourth flash.


Sunday
Conditioning at the depot.
Doing overall strength training using compound exercises. Thinking of life longer term. Want to maintain strength as I get older for facets of life. Not just climbing.


Super sets on squats and bench press 3x8. These were tiring. No rests between exercises.

Military Press 4x5
Dips 4x5
Core circuit

Liamhutch89

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#3 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 09:47:36 am
Duncan - Basing your training plan on relatively poor scores is never a bad thing. It gives you a better run up.

Will - Good effort at Trowbarrow. Sounds like you're on good form.


Deload

M - nothing
T - kilter board ancap session, standing military press, core
W - mobility
T - back of calf eliminates in the rain.
F - mobility
S - repeaters, wide pullups, face pulls
S - mobility

Low psych for actual climbing at the moment as my fingers and forearms are constantly fatigued due to a heavy training load (not this week as deload), which will continue until mid December. Shoulders are feeing beastly though! Any recommendations for shoulder strength dependent problems in the 7C-8A range to keep me entertained before I aim to peak over Christmas? If only isles sit was a number grade easier! 

Will Hunt

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#4 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 09:52:45 am
Will - Good effort at Trowbarrow. Sounds like you're on good form.

Do not be fooled. I had never tried it in its old state but a hold has broken on Pit Problem leaving a decent flat crimp in the place of a sidepull. It felt significantly easier than Ned's, though on Ned's I couldn't seem to get my heel/toe onto the first LH hold so ended up having to hold a huge swing on the far left glued crimp which felt absolutely desperate.

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#5 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 09:55:39 am
Power Club:

M.
T.
W.
T. Evening board session, limit bouldering, tried hard.
F.
S.
S. Depot Birmingham with my brother. 2nd or 3rd indoor session of the year I reckon! Felt pretty good, did some proper warming up and out of curiosity did a few one arm hangs on the BM 2000, surprised myself and held it for ~6s on right arm and ~3s on left, I'll take that! Confirmed my suspicion that my edge at home is quite a lot harder, I don't know whether that's beneficial or not. Flashed a few purples, did a yellow 2nd go and was reeeet close on a few other yellows. Felt like I was climbing well but I just haven't got the PE to get up anything hard over 6 or 7 moves. No chance on the oranges, but who wants to fling themselves between giant blobs like that anyway?

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#6 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 09:59:27 am
Any recommendations for shoulder strength dependent problems in the 7C-8A range to keep me entertained before I aim to peak over Christmas?

Off the top of my head:
Press kneeling/sitting starts at Rubicon? (More lat than shoulder, but kinda similar; I remember thinking that it felt like someone was punching my left lat repeatedly while moving my body from the position I would catch the LH in to the position I would need to be in to them move)
Palmed and dangerous at Froggatt? (Only played for 5 min so not really sure how much it's shoulder vs tricep vs wrist strength)

duncan

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#7 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 10:02:43 am
M - Short shuffle, 10km walk.
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, up to 42kg (10s) with the good hand. Short shuffle. 7km walk.
W - 11km walk. Legs conditioning: Split squats, frog squats, single leg squats, heel drops and raises.
T - Shoulder conditioning: side planks etc. Shuffled 1km. Amazing concert by the London Sinfonietta at the Queen Elizabeth Hall (followed by depressing news they
F - Westway routes to 6a+
S - Shoulder conditioning: side planks etc. Shuffled 1km. Walked 11km.
S - Walked 8km including the living hell that is The North Face shop on Regent’s Street.

Quiet week, wrist is still an issue. Think it is getting better but it is taking a long time. Monsoon weather hasn’t been inspiring to get in a car either.

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#8 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 10:10:03 am
Pre-training program week

Monday - assessment. Max hangs for 5 seconds on the 20mm (52.5kgs) and 2-rep pullup max (40kgs). Currently weigh at around 75kgs. Did some climbing indoors. Always good to know that you're strong even if you're shit.

Tuesday - Depot. Felt shattered. Just stuck to Reds. Should just have rested.

Wednesday - Rested, went to the Brit Rock Premiere. Was decent! Maybe a new sound system would have been good? But the movies were good!

Thursday - Went out for a very short session to try Hanging Wall 7A (some books seem to say 7A+?) Worked out all the beta for the sit, got to the lip with loads in the tank, just need to get it done now. Pretty keen to see that go next session on it.

Friday - rested

Saturday - Indoor session trying hard, limit moves. Felt quite strong and light? So hopefully should be on the up soon

Sunday - very light mobility session. Skin slightly worn so finished early to not overdo it.

Today training starts anew. Pretty excited.

moose

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#9 Re: Power Club 669 31 Oct - 06 November 2022
November 07, 2022, 10:14:28 am
Will - Good effort at Trowbarrow. Sounds like you're on good form.

Do not be fooled. I had never tried it in its old state but a hold has broken on Pit Problem leaving a decent flat crimp in the place of a sidepull. It felt significantly easier than Ned's, though on Ned's I couldn't seem to get my heel/toe onto the first LH hold so ended up having to hold a huge swing on the far left glued crimp which felt absolutely desperate.

I've never managed Pit Problem, despite trying it on many occasions.  Are you trying the stand or sit to Ned's? I thought the stand was pretty steady (I did manage to make the heel-toe work) - did it in a few goes after a long session exhausting myself on Pit.  The sit is another matter - those footholds are so slippery.

Liamhutch89

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Any recommendations for shoulder strength dependent problems in the 7C-8A range to keep me entertained before I aim to peak over Christmas?

Off the top of my head:
Press kneeling/sitting starts at Rubicon? (More lat than shoulder, but kinda similar; I remember thinking that it felt like someone was punching my left lat repeatedly while moving my body from the position I would catch the LH in to the position I would need to be in to them move)
Palmed and dangerous at Froggatt? (Only played for 5 min so not really sure how much it's shoulder vs tricep vs wrist strength)

I just watched a video of The Press and, relatively, that is my strongest position. Looks good as a potentially flattering problem to try whilst low on psych! Does it seep?  I've heard the holds can be quite savage on skin at Rubicon.

I tried Palmed and Dangerous a year or so ago and I felt that thumb press strength was the limiting factor for the last position before reaching out to the lip. It seems like a bit of a novelty climb, so I wasn't particularly interested in going away to train thumb pressups! Froggatt is a good venue though so it's one to check in on again at some point.

On a separate note, having read that you've enjoyed 3D roof climbing in the past, I think you might enjoy Jelly of the Beast at Odin's Cave that climbs right-to-left all the way across the roof/prow at the entrance.


spidermonkey09

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Pit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!

Yossarian

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Shoulders are feeing beastly though!

Liam - do you do any specific shoulder / press training beyond those sorts of moves on your board?

I don’t think my shoulders are necessarily weak, but having recently injured myself doing a powerful press on my RH shoulder I’m interested in anything I can do to prevent that sort of thing from reoccurring.

abarro81

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I just watched a video of The Press and, relatively, that is my strongest position. Looks good as a potentially flattering problem to try whilst low on psych! Does it seep?  I've heard the holds can be quite savage on skin at Rubicon.

It doesn't seep too badly, though the whole wall can get covered in runoff for a few days when it rains a lot and the floor can get flooded. But overall that wall can be dry in winter if you get a few dry weeks, unlike somewhere like the Tor which is generally more seasonal (i.e. once wet that will mostly stay wet until spring). My best sessions there have generally been in a dry period late-autumn or early Spring - cold conditions definitely help. The Press holds aren't too skinny apart from the RH crimp that you press up to and then snatch off - that's fairly skinny IIRC (how you hold it is key, IIRC getting my thumb on the rock next to my fingers was key rather than just straight crimping with my thumb on my index finger)

On a separate note, having read that you've enjoyed 3D roof climbing in the past, I think you might enjoy Jelly of the Beast at Odin's Cave that climbs right-to-left all the way across the roof/prow at the entrance.
Yeah, it's on the list, looks good!

Bradders

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Pit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!

That's interesting, if it's the sidepull I'm thinking of I would never have thought it might break. How big is the edge now?

I need to go back to Trowbarrow. Love it there but it's been a long time since I last went.

Duncan Disorderly

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Monday - assessment. Max hangs for 5 seconds on the 20mm (52.5kgs) and 2-rep pullup max (40kgs). Currently weigh at around 75kgs. Did some climbing indoors. Always good to know that you're strong even if you're shit.


Christ! That makes me feel weak just looking at those numbers... We're about the same weight but judging by my woeful scores that fact I can even pull myself off the ground, let alone ever get up owt, seems like quite a result  :lol:

Duncan Disorderly

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Duncan - Basing your training plan on relatively poor scores is never a bad thing. It gives you a better run up.

Sounds like sage advice... Nowt like big gainz to keep the psyche high!

Liamhutch89

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Shoulders are feeing beastly though!

Liam - do you do any specific shoulder / press training beyond those sorts of moves on your board?

I don’t think my shoulders are necessarily weak, but having recently injured myself doing a powerful press on my RH shoulder I’m interested in anything I can do to prevent that sort of thing from reoccurring.

I'll stay away from injury prevention due to lack of knowledge but focus on general strength for gastons, which I've thought about quite a lot.

The board is certainly a big part of it. If I'm having a session with a mate and I'm trying to burn them off, it's 100% going to involve a full crimped gaston as wide as I can reach  ;D.  I've always had a natural inclination towards gastons and lock offs, probably because I came into climbing with high body strength and awareness (from weightlifting, boxing, and jiu-jitsu), but weak fingers, so I ended up full crimping everything to keep up with what the rest of my body could do and this has influenced my style.

I still do the standard shoulder stuff like overhead pressing but I think those help more with compression. For gastons and wide lock offs, aside from the essential 2 arm weighted pullup, what I think makes a big difference are exercises like:

face pulls / rear delt flyes - but done heavy (e.g. 6 reps), not the standard 15+ rep rehab style ones. If you go to any walls/gym with a chest fly machine, sit facing it instead and that's a great way to just put maximum load through the rear delts. This won't work the stabilizing muscles, so I'd combine with free weights, cables or TRX.

slow ring muscle up transitions - i've mentioned these before but I think they are the best non climbing exercise for getting stronger at locking off and it's not even close. The idea is to just rep through the transition part of the muscle up so you're not wasting energy on the pullup or dip. For me it rolls the shoulder in exactly the same way as when I lock off deep on the wall. I appreciate these have quite a high barrier to entry but you could probably do them assisted with bands and eventually progress to adding weight. False grip the rings.

deadlifts and nordic hamstring curls - because the force goes through the whole chain and not just the shoulders.

Wellsy

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Reminds me I definitely want to get back on the ring muscle ups. I did one statically early this year but doubt I could do that now.

spidermonkey09

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Pit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!

That's interesting, if it's the sidepull I'm thinking of I would never have thought it might break. How big is the edge now?

I need to go back to Trowbarrow. Love it there but it's been a long time since I last went.

Its the right hand crimpy sidepull you pulled on with when doing Pit Problem from a stand. Based on where the water was running yesterday I think water must have been getting down the back of it. The edge its left behind is reasonably big, maybe 12mm, but quite specific in how you hold it and slopes the wrong way. Its obviously easy to get your fingers on it correctly when stood on the ground (!), much harder when you're climbing into it from the sit. I had a brief go at the sit yesterday and think that will be worth 7B+ now, having probably been 7C before, but only if started matched on the lowest edge. Starting with crossed hands like I've seen a few videos do on the old version (sorry Yetix  :tease:) misses the hardest move and will add little to nothing to the stand as it is now I don't think.

Will Hunt

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Conversely I thought that the sit (which I didn't do, humidity spooged the RH when I tried to link from the sit) felt like a trivial addition! I'm pretty sure I was starting from the furthest hold on the left.

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Conversely I thought that the sit (which I didn't do) felt like a trivial addition! I'm pretty sure I was starting from the furthest hold on the left.

Ha who the fuck knows! End of the session maybe, but i thought the initial crossover to the pocket crimp with the LH immediately after you pull on was hard. Ultimately will come down to whether you think the hard move is that hard or not; very possible I'm just piss weak!

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Pit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!

That's interesting, if it's the sidepull I'm thinking of I would never have thought it might break. How big is the edge now?

I need to go back to Trowbarrow. Love it there but it's been a long time since I last went.

Its the right hand crimpy sidepull you pulled on with when doing Pit Problem from a stand. Based on where the water was running yesterday I think water must have been getting down the back of it. The edge its left behind is reasonably big, maybe 12mm, but quite specific in how you hold it and slopes the wrong way. Its obviously easy to get your fingers on it correctly when stood on the ground (!), much harder when you're climbing into it from the sit. I had a brief go at the sit yesterday and think that will be worth 7B+ now, having probably been 7C before, but only if started matched on the lowest edge. Starting with crossed hands like I've seen a few videos do on the old version (sorry Yetix  :tease:) misses the hardest move and will add little to nothing to the stand as it is now I don't think.

All good I've done it again since from matched when I tried wheelbarrow since.
Just went off a video at the time which I'd seen rather than guide the first time (so now I'm part of the same problem!) Didn't find the first move added much at all though personally, was more the foot moves to get the heel crammed well with that good left toe and then into the sidepull well to generate prebreak... Sounds like from the hold break/change that that might be much less of an issue now? Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though



Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - EMOM boxing bag.
Tue - weights.
Wed - barbell good mornings, high pulls.
Thu - AM ab wheel. PM thruster, high pulls, lower back.
Fri - loaded carries.
Sat - AM ab wheel. PM goblet squat, pull ups, 5x15.
Sun - AM ab wheel, goblet squat. PM wheel, high pulls.





Yossarian

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but focus on general strength for gastons, which I've thought about quite a lot.


Wow, that all sounds like just the thing (when shoulder is working properly again), esp the muscle ups. Thanks Liam.

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M - no run, kids opted for guising over athletics.
T - a bit of kettlebells
W - intended running in Stonehaven while Kyle swimming, but horizontal rain put me off, so sat in car and read.
T - not a lot, some kettlebells I think.
F - naff all.
S - back to wall. Taped finger up and had a relatively easy session, avoiding anything vaguely crimpy. A bit sore after, but to be expected.
S - naff all.

Lazy week, still feeling it after Illuminator. Back on the wagon as of today.

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M: G1. 3FD MH 85% 10s 20mm -17.5lb. Tested pinky (probably a bit early. Managed BW OH 20mm 10s with minimal pain.) L One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb.

T: G1. 3FD MH 85% 10s 20mm -17.5lb. Loaded pinky with feet on floor. One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb. 10 mins bike

S: G1. 3FD strength repeaters -25lb. Ramped up to 10s 20mm HC (all four fingers) *3sets. Also did 14mm 10s OH hang. One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb. 1 V2, 4 V3, 3 V4 boulders. No pain but lacking confidence. 10 mins bike. Core

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Some good updates above, lots of training and climbing happening.

Mon: Nothing

Tue: Did long max hangs from the Beastmaking book, 20mm x 20 seconds x 3 at bodyweight. Then did smaller holds 14mm x 7 seconds x 3 at bodyweight. Felt fine despite tweaky fingers.

Wed: Weights, 3 sets of 10 session, Shoulder press, bench press, seated rows. All at pre-half term levels which was all I was going for.

Thu: Routes. Got sucked into a playing around session probably generating 'wasted miles'. Climbed well on a steep 7a before hitting a stopper move at the top. My climbing partner flashed a 7b and made it look easy, I tried it and got absolutely shut down. Lots of pinches that I felt awful clipping from. Good clue that I should be training more pinches.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Bouldering session where I tried a split between strength training then aero fitness, ARCing for 30 minutes. First part of the session did a boulder triple of hard problems. Managed to tick two projects from my last session which was good. Did a few problems campus style, and 1-4-5 on the board as hasn't campused for ages and wanted to see where I was at. Then had a short rest and just climbing continuously at easy problems for 30 min. This seemed to work quite well but I felt very tired by the end.

Sun: Sore in shoulders from the previous day.

Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?

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2 weeks as not done in a while, beforehand I did density hangs x2 weekly and was mainly trying longer problems on the boulder hut board for about 6 weeks

M FB testing lattice edge upto +35kg for 6s, Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger

T BoulderHut Board, repeated 4 problems Id previously spent a session on each, fell off last and 2nd to last move on 4 others which Id done similar on

W rest

T hour at sleep hallow boulder, flashed the 7A, did the 7B+ 3rd go. Tried the 8A and did all the moves to the 7B stand. Got rained off before trying the 7B stand properly so need to check that out next time. FB 6x6s +27.5kg, Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger

F Homeboard session: Repeated 4 problems from easy to moderate difficulty. Failed to repeat a problem from previous session which Id tried over 3 sessions. Managed to send a new project which Id spent 2 sessions on, tried to do a harder finish afterwards which I did in halves

S rest

S BoulderHut Board Repeated 3 moderates as part of the end of my warmup, tried to add a hard sitter to one with a slightly harder finish. Managed to do the stand with the harder finish and fell off the last move x3 from the sitter (11th move) did 3 problems in 1-3 goes which I'd tried briefly before

M rest

T FB 6x6s +27.5kg, Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger. PM Boardroom on Moonboard (2019). Did 9 benchmarks upto 7A, failed on 2 other 7A benchmarks

W rest

T Boardroom Moonboard (2019) did 10xMoonboard benchmarks upto 7A failed on 2 other 7A benchmarks

F rest

S AM Mono Pickups 6x6s on perma injured middle finger. Tried to get out, got rained off, back on the moonboard, did 6xbenchmarks upto 7A

S rest

Volume has been quite high recently as psyched to train for the first time in a while. Just before these 2 weeks I fell off the last move of impropa Opera sitter 3 times, hoping for a dry spell to go back and see how it feels again, though I think I need to be going slightly more often to get it over the line really...

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Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though

Yes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help.

Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move.

Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here ;)



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Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?

Yes, have exactly this in my plan atm, but the aerocap is extremely low intensity ARCing, about 1/5 pump and mainly for recovery from the ancap session (boulder triples).

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Jesus, you must have been strong on that LH!  :o

yetix

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Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though

Yes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help.

Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move.

Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here ;)



Don't fancy trying pacman with the OG sequence? Doesn't go through pit the way Ryan did I don't think, whether it should be the same problem if going via pit or a diff problem idk?

Duma

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M - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift. Elbow seemed ok after circuits on Sunday.
T - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift  Rehab stuff. (No circuits as at home)
W - mobility stuff. Indoor routes eve, 13 routes, mostly 5 - 6b+ and nothing more than slightly overhanging. Did do one slabby and one vert 6c+ though. Elbow felt ok but worried might have overdone the volume.
T - mobility stuff. Elbow still feeling ok, a relief after the reaction last week. Run, 6k, 29 min, flat, pavement. 2 min plank.
F - mobility stuff, rehab stuff including 3 x 6b circuit, and some slabby black problems as I was dying of boredom
S - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift. Elbow seemed to survive yesterday's bouldering with only mild reaction.
S - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift.

71 kg
2022 plank total 294 min

Bradders

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Curious about how the change in difficulty might impact wheel barrow etc though

Yes, that's what I'm wondering! Always wanted to do Pacman so keen to know if the new hold might help.

Although actually on Pit Problem I never used that sidepull anyway. Always pulled on with right hand next to where your heal goes, as I actually found that easier, then went to a little slot with the right hand before doing the hard move.

Approved sequence for the low from 4 mins in here ;)



Don't fancy trying pacman with the OG sequence? Doesn't go through pit the way Ryan did I don't think, whether it should be the same problem if going via pit or a diff problem idk?

Yeah absolutely just wondered if the new hold might help for that move too, as an intermediate maybe.

Although I think it'd be similar difficulty either way. Either do one massive move (which is amazing!) or the crux of Pit and lots of other tacky tensiony moves as per Wheelbarrow.

Jesus, you must have been strong on that LH!  :o

Haha if you look closely I'm boning the shit out of it! But seriously I always thought that little slot was quite nice  :shrug:

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M. Miller Fork, the Infirmary. Deliberately eschewed the sandbag warm ups and dogged up the super steep Last Rites 5.12b which I’d tried earlier in the trip. Air humid and back of some slots damp. Redpointed it without drama.

T. Military Wall. First visit here. Humid. Warmed on an 11b. Eddie did his carefully selected route Forearm Follies 5.12b (long, steep and pumpy of course). I flashed through the low crux but got a strange pump in my left arm that I couldn’t shake off. Didn’t make the most of the available rests and then got super pumped on the the steep headwall. Kept slapping for another 10 feet but in the end couldn’t even hold large holds and peeled off. Couldn’t get back on the rock and came down. Destroyed. A second go would have been futile.

W. Back to Military Wall. Dogged the first 40 feet of Forearm Follies to warm up then managed to redpoint it fine. Eddie keen for Long Wall but he got spat off his chosen route. I did a lovely wall climb Game Boy which was about 35metres long given 11c but felt more like 11d.

T./F. 24 hours door to door getting home with only 1 hours sleep. Flight delayed. Ignored instructions at Dublin meant I caught my connecting flight to Manchester although my luggage didn’t.
Had a lovely walk with the dog around Higgar/Owler Tor when I got home.

S. AM Leaf shovelling

S.

Great trip. Some stellar routes done with Swedish Fish standing out in particular. Plotting to go out again next year maybe combined with Sonia doing the New York marathon.

It was a downer coming back last time and I was quite glum for about 6 weeks. Hope I will keep my psyche this time. Planning to do a benchmarking session with Steve Mac this week to take a view of where I’m at as well as a Varian sling test to check the relative strengths of my digits as I’ve lost direction with my fingerboarding.


Planning to do a benchmarking session with Steve Mac this week to take a view of where I’m at as well as well as a Varian sling test to check the relative strengths of my digits as I’ve lost direction with my fingerboarding.
« Last Edit: November 08, 2022, 09:08:06 am by shark »

James Malloch

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M. C25k run

T. Genat - bumped into sone friends randomly. Climbed Amalthée L1 (7b). Took 3 goes but felt really hard. Wouldn’t grumble with a + on it.

W. Sibada in the morning. Put the drawers in a 7a for Zora but didn’t do anything else. She got real close but then the sun came. C25k run after

T. Went to Andorra for the day, then on to Spain.

F. Arrived in Siurana. C25k.

S. Climbed at espero primavera. Did a 6b+, 6c and 6a+. All runout but nice routes.

S. Laziest day ever.


Mike Highbury

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S - Walked 8km including the living hell that is The North Face shop on Regent’s Street.

Come on, Duncan, you know better than that. Why didn't you pop round the corner to Bond St and shop there? https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/capsule/the-north-face-gucci?eu_productstnfw3=men-tnf-w3-eu


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M. C25k run
...
W. Sibada in the morning. Put the drawers in a 7a for Zora but didn’t do anything else. She got real close but then the sun came. C25k run after
...
F. Arrived in Siurana. C25k.
I was reading "C25k" as circa twenty-five kilometres and thought you'd massively increased your running distances before the penny finally dropped.

Duma

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I was also very impressed, was I wrong? What does it mean?

SA Chris

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Couch to 5k

James Malloch

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Yep couch to 5k. Done 3 weeks so far so only running for 9 minutes across 4 intervals (jumps to 16 this week) so just under 2km at the moment.

I messed my knees up years ago and then stopped running. Whenever I start I get injured unless I take it really slowly like this. Done my running physio 50+ days in a row now so feeling much stronger and the runs are nice and easy.

After 9 weeks you’re running 30 mins. Then I’ll just probably start upping the distance one day, and then doing a 30 minute run one other day to keep topped up.

Bloody knees….

duncan

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S - Walked 8km including the living hell that is The North Face shop on Regent’s Street.

Come on, Duncan, you know better than that. Why didn't you pop round the corner to Bond St and shop there? https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/capsule/the-north-face-gucci?eu_productstnfw3=men-tnf-w3-eu

Ha! Even the teenager recognises this is bollocks.

Overpriced hats off to The North Face management team though, 25 years ago the company very nearly went bust after never stopping exploring the outer limits of accounting practice. These days they are one of the four or five acceptable brands for a fashion-conscious thirteen year old.

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Sat: Bouldering session where I tried a split between strength training then aero fitness, ARCing for 30 minutes. First part of the session did a boulder triple of hard problems. Managed to tick two projects from my last session which was good. Did a few problems campus style, and 1-4-5 on the board as hasn't campused for ages and wanted to see where I was at. Then had a short rest and just climbing continuously at easy problems for 30 min. This seemed to work quite well but I felt very tired by the end.

Sun: Sore in shoulders from the previous day.

Has anyone else tried the strength/aero split in the same session?

Not a power clubber but yes, have done the strength/aerocap split session. I think it’s excellent, and put a couple of summers of decent-for-me performance mostly down to doing them. The only downside is that they are really tiring and made me ravenous.

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Just realised I've got an update!


STG / MTG: land on my left leg
LTG: Font 7a outdoors again


W: trip to Huddz to give my crutches back. Good feedback from the physio re: recovery etc, and got a new suite of exercises so I'm starting rehab proper now.


T: LSD evening. Did my physio in the gym, then a very easy potter around V0 - V2 stuff I knew I wasn't going to risk falling off. Left leg / thigh very weak but nice to be moving again.


Sun: Swimming with daughter - a good hour involving a few lengths of "proper" swimming now she's competent in the pool.

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M - Wall. Shoulder still uncomfortable and skin in quite a bad state with various splits. Did some stuff on the board and warm-ups felt great. Other things seemed to aggravate shoulder tho, so kept it short. Went downstairs and managed some new links on the hard prow problem I've been working on. Tried to leave some oomph in the tank.
T - Back to the wall with the kids. Did lots of easier stuff around the centre with them, and then some more goes on project. Good fun, but skin was v thin by the end.
W
T - Wall, again with the kids. Longer harder version of Tuesday (3 1/2 hours?) with a good mix of variety, burl, and projecting. 7 year old had a bit of a breakthrough session, mainly I think because it was the first time in ages he's been to the wall more than once in a week. Fairly exhausted by the end.
F
S - Wall. Tired. Bit of board, and then tried to have decent hard goes on things with lots of rest in between.
S - 8km walk

Still weight far too much and it's not really dropping because I've struggled to get out for walks or runs because of the weather. But am climbing some board problems better than when I was substantially lighter. Aiming to see if problem foot will take some running in the coming week, plus add in some more structured strength stuff, and try to do yoga / stretching more regularly.

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W: trip to Huddz to give my crutches back. Good feedback from the physio re: recovery etc, and got a new suite of exercises so I'm starting rehab proper now.


T: LSD evening. Did my physio in the gym, then a very easy potter around V0 - V2 stuff I knew I wasn't going to risk falling off. Left leg / thigh very weak but nice to be moving again.

Great to hear this Tommy.

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Missed the NNFN explaining your unfortunate mishap / act of stupidity (delete where appropriate). Hope you recover soon.

tommytwotone

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Cheers - I was probably so pissed off I didn't post it!

TL:DR is an awkward straight-legged, twisting landing dropping off from about 2 holds up a V0, which I was downclimbing (to be safe!) having topped a V5 or something.

Torn meniscus, and having had orhtroscopy / treatment for that, also a microfracture treatment for some arthritis they found.

Beginning of the end now I hope. Went to wall again last night and it's already feeling a bit more solid.


 

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