the shizzle > beta - chuffing

Rooster Booster

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Yossarian:
My daughter has been pointed in the direction of considering Rooster Booster as a possible project for next year, mainly I think because one of her coaches saw someone quite young / little ticking it recently.

There’s a vid on YouTube but I’ve not been to the Tor for a couple of years and am struggling to visualise how high the bolts are.

Would it be possible to reach them all with a long clipstick? (If so it would make things logistically miles easier because she’s not going to be belaying me any time soon.)

haydn jones:
I'm almost certain you can reach them all with the longest beta clipsticks

haydn jones:
Also abit of trivia for rooster booster.

When Jerry did the first ascent he held off announcing it as he wanted to time it well with the magazines press release as the first 8a(topical). However Ron had apparently then been trying it/done it I'm not sure. Jerry went back on it and the pockets were a lot larger now and no longer 8a!

kc:
The replacement "peg bolts" are all very easy to reach with a stick.
 The clipping position of the bolts may not be the easiest as if it were bolted as a new spot climb. It was done this way as an experiment to preserve the original style of the climb which in turn was a free version of a pegged aid route. If the pegs were removed it could significantly alter the grade of the route and this was the main motivation. In hindsight I probably wouldn't have re equipped this way but it looks really neat not having a line of horizontal shinny bolts in the blank rock above.

El Mocho:
Is this the most topical route out there?

Peg bolts

First ascensionist delaying announcement for maximum exposure

Downgraded subsequently

FA and 2nd ascent by wads from a UK climbing peak era

As a member of the 'lost/wasted generation' this was my first route of the grade, and I may have been the youngest person to climb it at that time, obv I was ancient compared to the kids climbing it now.

Accusations of chipping (not sure if this is a particularly now topic but always an issue.)

At least I don't think there are any knee bars on it...

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