[Duma]

M - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift.
T - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift  Rehab stuff.
W - mobility stuff. 12 hr shift.
T - mobility stuff. 8 hr shift.
F - mobility stuff. Rehab stuff incl easy circuits (6b?) at TCA x 6
S -  Elbow worse, circuits might have been too much for it? Mobility stuff.
S - Elbow improved, not quite to before Fri though. Mobility stuff. Rehab stuff. 6b circuit x 4. Dropped volume, hopefully will reduce the reaction, find out tomorrow...

70.5 kg
2022 plank total 286 min

[Wellsy]

Sunday to Thursday - in the Lakes, going on big hikes every day and generally just having a lovely time, even if it was pissing it down

Friday - Stanage Plantation for the first time since I got injured there. Did Steep Traverse 6C in good time, great problem. Had a look at Honorary Caley 7A and keen to get back to it soon. Works session after trying hard shit

Saturday - works session, good bit of hard effort. Halloween Party in the evening which saw me reconnect with some people in a really nice way.

Sunday - very chilled session at the works with a friend who'd never been before.

Tomorrow I have a meeting with my training plan guy, going to get firmly back on the training I reckon. I've been pretty pleased that recently I've generally been knocking out a new 6C to 7A or two every week, so I'm in decent form at the moment, but I want to start thinking about pushing myself a bit.

[shark]

Thanks Duma

M. Muir Valley. One of the good things about Muir Valley is you can chase sun or shade with a short walk to sectors on the other side of the valley. One of the bad things is that it is insanely popular and a low point on the previous trip sharing a limited space with queuing with lots of shouty Americans at the Solarium. Found some quiet warm up crags and did some pleasant routes at 10d, 11c and 11c. Then headed over to the Solarium which had the same sort of scene as on the previous trip with a queue on Banshee 11c which was the only route there I had an interest in. Eddie got on Super Best Friends 5.12a/b. I knew it was going to be a waste of time for me trying as it was far too steep and Eddie fell off on the onsight but Banshee still had a queue so tied on tonSuoer Best Friends. Got to the crux on the flash but then couldn’t even dog the crux!. Pulled past and went to the top. Came down and had black thoughts about my shortcomings - lack of power endurance, inability to shake out and recover on jugs on steep ground and power loss when even vaguely pumped. Eddie redpointed it and Banshee was still occupied so thought I’d see if I could get to the crux again. Couldn’t believe it when I pulled through the crux and then wasn’t even particularly pumped on the headwall. Most unlikely redpoint ever. Inadequate warm up maybe? Even better got to go on Banshee at the end of the day at long last which was a challenge as I was tired.  Another amazing route and almost gave up grovelling into one of the huecos with nothing but slopers to use

T.

W. Funk Rock City. Thought this place was great on the last trip. Got lost on the walk in and had crag to ourselves. I warmed up dogging up on the spicy classic Infidel 11.d which I’d got spat off the top as the last route on the last trip. Eddie flashed and I redpointed first go. Did have my eye on working the amazing looking Orange Juice 12c but Eddie did a very good looking wall climb Go Easy Billy Clyde 12a so went on that and I was chuffed to flash it. Eddie got spat off low down on Orange Juice and felt tired so gave it a miss. Belayed him ton something else till it started to get dark. Got lost on the walk down crossing the river far too early bushwalking up a heavily vegetated hill on the other side looking for a path which wasn’t there. Bashed my ankle descending and waded back over the river. Recrossed further downstream and picked up the trail walking out with wet feet. 

T. Miller Fork. Fruit Wall. Warmed up on a very pleasant 10c Jee Jee Fruit and then an unpleasantly friable and sandy 11b Lucy in the Sky. The main amphitheatre was impressive but very dusty. Managed to cock up on the main event Witness the Citrus 11c (more like 11d/7a) low down trying to span past a hard to see jug that is obvious from the ground. Immediately lowered and pulled rope through and led to the top. Fantastic route. Eddie did then got shut down in the 12a to the right and we called it a day.

F.

S. Hot. Parking at Military Wall was full and it was too warm for there so drove on to Phantasia which was also busy. Primary aim was the mega classic and nicely shaded  Twinkie 12a - a wall leading into overhanging honeycombed headwall. Luckily a couple were just finished on it. Nothing available to warm up on so dogged up the route. Eddie then flashed. I fluffed the first redpoint above the crux but all went very smoothly second time after an hours rest. Drove on to Skybridge Ridge also rammed which was a contrast to last time when we had the place to ourselves and cool conditions. Waited my turn for a return go on What’s Right with the Underling 12a Despite being hot and humid a perfunctory flash for me this time

S.

Bagged some more mega classics this week and got to visit more new crags. The style of most of the routes here doesn’t play to my strengths and coupled along with Eddie’s endurance has led me to reflect on my own shortcomings and how I should address them this winter.

[Coops_13]

Two weeks - new injury, fingers crossed I can be back at it soon

M: G1. Max hangs 95% +62.5lb. Kilter limit bouldering at 50deg. Managed 4 V8s. Finished with a V6 and a V5.

T: G1. Power endurance repeaters 80% +25lb. Some light kilter 45deg sending 5 V6. 10 mins bike

W: Core. 100 press-ups. Hip mobility. Shoulder press

T: Clear Creek Canyon. Up to Deja Reve V9. Warmed up and slowly started to manage moves and link together. Was tying the middle where you have to grab a crozzly pocket crimp and pull quite hard. Could only grab with front three. As my three-finger drag is pretty poor, I assume my pinky was engaged trying to pull on something. Pop in pinky, session over. Unclear how bad but I suspect A2 or A3 pulley

F: 100 press-ups.

S: G1. 3FD testing session. Worked up to +10lb on 20mm for 7s. One-arm hang testing session. Worked up to -17.5lb on BM 2k middle edge 5s. Psyched! Some light climbing then 10 mins bike to finish

M: Core.

T: G1. Had U/S on finger, grade 2/3 A2 rupture on pinky. Due to no pain and good ROM and smaller finger, should be back light climbing in a few weeks. 3FD MH 85% 10s 20mm -17.5lb. L One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb. 10 mins bike

W: Core. 100 press-ups. Hike to Hick boulder to support mates / steal beta

T: G1. 3FD MH 85% 10s 20mm -17.5lb. L One-arm MH 85% 10s Middle BM 2k -42.5lb. 10 mins bike

F: Hiking in CCC looking at boulders

S: Flatirons soloing. Linked up the two longest solos in the Flatirons. Angel's Way 5.1 1,400ft into Stairway to Heaven 5.3 1,200ft. Total c. 4 miles and 2200ft ascent

S: 2 mile hike in Evergreen, checked out a new boulder which could be a good one for poor pinky

[spidermonkey09]

Bagged some more mega classics this week and got to visit more new crags. The style of most of the routes here doesn’t play to my strengths and coupled along with Eddie’s endurance has led me to reflect on my own shortcomings and how I should address them this winter.

Comparing oneself to Eddie's endurance is always going to lead to disappointment!

[Duma]

Thanks for editing Duncan

[James Malloch]

M. Auzat - put the clips in a 7a+ for Zora which she had been trying. She fired it off first go of the day for her second route in the 7’s! Did an awesome 6b+ afterwards. Long and traddy.

T. Sibada. Put the clips in a 7a for Zora and dropped the onsight of a techy 7a+. Went smoothly next go.

W. Rest

T. Rest

F. Alliat. Tried a very thin 7b+ (now 7c according to a local). Brutal on the fingers. Dropped the last move due to a foot slip on my second go (on TR). Couldn’t bring myself to pull on one hold on my next go so stripped it.

S. Rest

S. Laramade bouldering. Did a nice 6C, failed on a 7A. Flashed a nice 6B. Dropped the last move off a long 7A. Utterly trashed.


Been doing couch to 5k on rest days, hoping to be back running properly come our return in January.

Heading to Siurana in the next few days. Any 7a-8a recommendations are very welcome! If at the harder end then techy vert is needed for me, nothing pumpy!

[Stabbsy]

M. Muir Valley. One of the good things about Muir Valley is you can chase sun or shade with a short walk to sectors on the other side of the valley. One of the bad things is that it is insanely popular and a low point on the previous trip sharing a limited space with queuing with lots of shouty Americans at the Solarium.

When I read other people's trip reports for the Red, I always end up feeling incredibly jealous but I wonder if I'd end up being pissed off with the busyness if I went back. It was always somewhere that was a bit off the radar 15-20 years ago, so we were quite often the only people at the crag (unless it was the weekend, when you might have to share it with a couple of teams).

Shame to miss out on Orange Juice - it's one of the best routes I never did!

[User deactivated.]

M - mobility
T - 4 hours surf in the morning at Tynemouth, saw some dolphins. 3 reps of 6 hard board problems in the evening followed by 15 minutes of feet on floor hand traversing on the board (ARC?) to try and develop a bit more session endurance. Core workout 1 to finish.
W - 5 x 7:3 repeaters, 4 x 15s wrist wrench isometrics, 5x5 slow ring muscleups + 15kg, ring I,Y,T's
T - mobility
F - 12 reps of a 14 move problem I set on the kilter board with 3 min rest (it's called high tensile if anyone wants to try it, tensiony drop knees!). Set at 45 but I had to keep backing it off through the session down to 35 for the last few reps. The adjustable angle is great for this type of session. 4x6 standing military press, core workout 2.
S - mobility
S - Unstructured session at Armley Depot with son. 5x3 deadlifts at 170kg - have lost a ton of strength on these so will do weekly for a bit. 6x15s 8mm hangs in the evening and external shoulder rotations.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

Mon - Sat. Very little, my parents stayed Tue - Fri. Tried my best not to overeat and overdrink. Leo's teething seems to have gone nuclear this week, so not the best sleep I've had.

Sun. 2 hr board session. Felt surprisingly strong during warmup and did some good one arm hangs. Most of the time spent establishing some new short term projects. The board is climbing really nicely now with my latest addition of holds, some good variety.

Should be back on a normal routine next week, and potential climbing Sunday.

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Started a board session feeling slightly tired and ankle aching from various exploits the previous week. But then got going quite nicely, + joined by some enthusiastic wads which helped. Ended up doing about 90mins of decent stuff. Then tried again on project downstairs but didn't get any further.
T - Was going to return to wall for some easy volume but felt exhausted so skipped that.
W - Wall. Had plans for some strength exercises and volume, but the setters were doing final tweaks to new prow set and got sucked into one particular burly big move problem. Proceeded to totally trash myself, wrecked skin, etc but had a lot of fun. Also tried harder (7C+?) thing on rounded crimps and pinches. Did 30 mins yoga plus some stretching when I got home.
T - Went to the wall again, despite feeling quite broken. Finished the problem I'd been doing the day before, and then had some goes on the hard problem. Managed to connect a little section to a wide gaston press move on my right hand, pressed very hard whilst adjusting my feet and felt a not insubstantial crunch in my right shoulder. Swore quite a lot and then went home.
F - Tired, and not helped by inability to sleep on painful shoulder.
S - Wall. Spent a while figuring out what I could pull on and what hurts. Pulling down was fine, so got on with that.
S - Rest and eating lots.

I've been trying problems that are way too hard for me over the past 2-3 years but I think generally feeling fat and a bit useless meant I gave up before doing myself any damage. A couple of weeks of yoga / stretching and generally feeling more energetic / positive seems to have led to a situation in which my syke levels have started writing cheques my connective tissue can't cash. Belt position reveals some degree of weight loss, but scales don't, which is probably due to trying creatine for the first time in a while. I think more yoga / stretching this week, along with more walks / general cardio. Had x-ray report revealing that ankle issues are definitely down to degeneration of subtalar joint, so another incentive to lose weight. Ordered freestanding pull-up bar for the garden to get going with whilst efforts to clear out the garage continue.

[Rocksteady]

Was in Cornwall for my son's first ever half-term. Bit frustrating as wanted to go climbing but free time and weather and toddler behaviour did not play ball and align very much.

Tuesday: Visited Godrevy, did two warm up boulders in the gullies bit. Not sure what they were, about V1. Lovely feeling rock. But everything else I could see was covered in seaweed and wet. Everyone wanted to go home anyway so I did.

Friday: Had a half day bouldering at Clodgy Point with my 4 year old son, my dad and his dog. Car parks in St Ives completely full (surf was up I think) so had to park at the rugby club which was a long muddy walk in. Got there and had fun on the summit boulders though the faces away from the sun were wet. My son climbed well showing some benefits of visiting the bouldering wall. The dog barked constantly. Went down to the main platform area and think I did Tramp Wall which was good though a little unclear on what the line was and may have climbed too much on the arete. Felt about V4ish. Then played around on some of the other boulders in the sun but nothing too serious. Only one pad and no spotters didn't encourage hard climbing. My son fell in a rockpool while under supervision of his grandpa. As a well-prepared dad I did have a full change of clothes including shoes so give myself a wad point for that. Did a lowball boulder traverse that felt quite hard. Ran out of time and walked back via a slightly better route. All in all the most successful bouldering day with the kid so far.

Rest of the week was beachy, half-termy activities and very exhausting with early starts and crazy behaviour from both kids. 9 hour drive back to London at the end capped it all.

[duncan]

 RRG continues to sound great. Soloing on the flatirons is great. 9 hour drive back to London sounds horribly familiar.   

667

M - 11km walk. Legs conditioning: Split squats, frog squats, single leg squats.
T - Westway: bouldering to ‘V2’. Wrist not great. Shoulder conditioning: side planks etc.
W - 10km walk.
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, up to 40kg (7s) four finger drag with the good hand. Legs conditioning.
F - 10km walk.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, up to 40kg (10s), 4 four finger drag with the good hand. 11km walk. Legs conditioning.
S - 12km walk, shoulders conditioning.

668

M - Westway: bouldering to (slabby) ‘V3’. Legs conditioning as above. 12km walk.
T - 7km walk.
W -  Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, up to 42kg (10s) with the good hand. 12km walk.
T - Westway routes, 4 up to 6a+.
F - 12km walk, legs conditioning, shoulders conditioning.
S - Fingerboard pickups: as above, up to 40kg. 11km walk.
S - Westway Bouldering to ~’V2’. Ludicrously diverted and long journey to Somerset. I really don’t want to spend 2 hours in Slough.



Missed last week, not much to report. Wrist is up and down.

One minor milestone: I started doing pick-ups with a DIY portable fingerboard 5 years ago as a shoulder injury work-around. I benchmarked properly 4 years ago when my 1 rep. max. was 35kg for 10 seconds on the smaller edge (~14mm but positive: like a Portland hold) on each hand. This week I managed 41kg for 10+ seconds and 42kg for 8 seconds with my left hand. Feels like a significant improvement, now need to find some routes with small crimps for the left hand and jugs for the right !

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - EMOM boxing bag.
Tue - AM ab wheel. PM ab wheel, high pulls, lower back.
Wed - AM ab wheel.
Thu - bar work, high pulls.
Fri - AM ab wheel. PM lower back, thruster.
Sat - loaded carries 15', wheel 4' x2.
Sun - boxing bag.

[SA Chris]

Wrist is up and down.

Fnarr fnarr.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Meh Club:

M: Routes @ AW - Up to F6c
T: Bouldering, Fingerboarding and Autobelays up to F6c...
W: Meh
T: Lump great big speakers up stairs in preparation for playing reggae, dancehall and jungle at incredibly loud volume...
F: Meh
S: Almost detach retinas with bass and drink far too much - glad I brought the earplugs!
S: Recover

Rubbish - had a great time on the weekend but gonna suffer for a bit!

[SA Chris]

injured.

I had a tweaky pulley from a long crimping session at Portlethen, then knackered it completely at bouldering at inverness wall, so having a break. Feels OK , was going to climb this week but....

Due to reasonable forecast earlier in the week I signed up for Illuminator a 15 mile headtorch run around Glentanar estate. Did it a few years back, and thought I could get a good time in current form. As Saturday night approached forecast go, then got a message saying due to an aggressive Capercaillie they were changing route and it was going to be about 2 km longer. Then forecast got worse, to the point where it was raining lightly at the start line and i was wishing I'd worn contact lenses. Most of run went OK, i eventially gabve up wiping glasses every 10 minutes when all the clothes were wet and nothing to wipe them on. Anyway, finished last big hill, and opened up on the muddy descent , and was fine until i got to the rock path section in the trees and went down pretty hard, grazing palm, forearms and both knees. Luckily no further damage, and made it over finishing line in a right mudded and bloody mess 2:50:54, still  a 2 1/2 min PB. Lessons; when people say speedcross are shit on wet rock, listen. Learn to use headtorch properly, should have been on a brighter setting. I'm getting too old for this shit.

Looks like finger is getting another week of rest while hand heals.

[Will Hunt]

Tu - Moon board sesh. Finished off the 7A (Das Moon Hard) from last session first go. Did a very soft 6C+, and a couple of 6Cs. Got stuck into a few 7A+s to continue with next time.

Th - enjoyable board sesh with Sam and Felix.

Fri - drove to Northumberland

Sat - woke up early feeling ill. Attempted more sleep. Got up and was ill. Drove home. FML.

Sun - played Zelda and read and watched the second half of Lawrence of Arabia which I started the previous day. Probably better than Kyloe.

[Aussiegav]

Monday -

Finger board session at home. Warm up
4 Quad block lifts. half crimp 15kg
4 Quad block lifts. Open, half crimp & 3 20kg. Shallow pinch at 15kg.
5x5 Shoulder Shrugs

2 hangs off edge open. 2 hangs off edge half Crimp 
85% hangs. BW plus 5kg half crimp 5 hangs
85% hangs BW plus 10kg open 5 hangs
8mm edges
3 isometric pulls. Max effort.

Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday -

Went to the Depot after work.
Warm up circuit
Three Blues, three blacks & two reds.
5 feet on Campus Pulls 2-5match. Did 2 sets leading each arm.
22mm 2-4-6 feet on. 2sets each arm.
Campus
1-3-5. 2 sets leading each arm.
1-4-5. 2 sets leading each arm.

Boulder Mileage Red Circuit
2attempts max. 2min rests.
Did 10 reds.

Thursday -
Peloton & stretching

Friday -

Finger board session at home. Warm up
4 Quad block lifts. half crimp 15kg
4 Quad block lifts. Open, half crimp & 3 20kg. Shallow pinch at 15kg.
5x5 Shoulder Shrugs

2 hangs off edge open. 2 hangs off edge half Crimp 
85% hangs. BW plus 5kg half crimp 5 hangs
85% hangs BW plus 10kg open 5 hangs


Saturday -
Went the hospice in London.
Got home late feeling achy and crook

Sunday.
Sick.

[shark]

When I read other people's trip reports for the Red, I always end up feeling incredibly jealous but I wonder if I'd end up being pissed off with the busyness if I went back. It was always somewhere that was a bit off the radar 15-20 years ago, so we were quite often the only people at the crag (unless it was the weekend, when you might have to share it with a couple of teams).

Shame to miss out on Orange Juice - it's one of the best routes I never did!

It doesn’t help that the optimal season is only about 6 weeks of the year. Trying to avoid honeypots like Solarium and Driveby at weekends helps as does being flexible - if a sector is busy move to another one.

Orange Juice does look amazing. Disappointed to see Eddie spat off on it as it must be hard. One for next winter!

Last climbing day today.

[Bradders]

Always surprises me too that in a country with so much rock that people have to queue for routes. Although perhaps the US isn't quite so blessed with sport climbing volume as it is bouldering?

[duncan]

Always surprises me too that in a country with so much rock that people have to queue for routes. Although perhaps the US isn't quite so blessed with sport climbing volume as it is bouldering?

Red River Gorge is arguably the only world-class sport climbing venue in the USA. Certainly the only one I've been tempted to visit over the usual European suspects. The climbing looks amazing and there is a quite distinct local culture about the place.

It's within 8-9 hours drive of Chicago, Detroit, Indianapolis, Pittsburg, Cleveland, Washington and some of the east coast, Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama and N and S Carolina. That's a lot of people within a distance many considered drivable for a long weekend in the USA. As Simon says, it has a narrow window of good conditions so everyone arrives at the same time.

[cheque]

The Red’s the handiest (in North American terms) for lots of states that have no rock whatsoever. Even parts of Canada. Canadian thanksgiving is in October and that long weekend is very busy in the Red.

It’s also the ideal place to climb if you live miles and miles from rock as the dominant style (steep continuous climbing on positive holds, often with in-situ draws, with the holds marked out by chalk as most routes are perma-dry) is surely the closest to indoor routes possible.

Plus it’s a lovely place to go climbing, particularly, as Shark says, in the Goldilocks-style autumn period. There’s great bouldering all over Europe but it doesn’t stop the locals of those areas crowding out Font at Easter!

[seankenny]

I've heard US climbers rave about the New River Gorge, saying it has some of the best rock in the US, lovely setting, etc, but few European climbers seem to visit. Anyone been? It's about four hours drive from RRG so next door in US terms.

Mountain Project says: "The New River Gorge is not a beginner's climbing mecca. Particularly in relation to the more popular Red River Gorge, the New's bolts tend to be farther apart, the holds smaller and more sparse, and the routes more technical and devious...

"Although locals climb at the New year-round, spring and fall are the best seasons, and even during these times, it is not uncommon to get hosed with week-long rain storms."

Perhaps we have enough devious, badly bolted routes with shite weather in the UK to make it worth the effort!

[Jerry Morefat]

I've heard US climbers rave about the New River Gorge, saying it has some of the best rock in the US, lovely setting, etc, but few European climbers seem to visit. Anyone been? It's about four hours drive from RRG so next door in US terms.

Mountain Project says: "The New River Gorge is not a beginner's climbing mecca. Particularly in relation to the more popular Red River Gorge, the New's bolts tend to be farther apart, the holds smaller and more sparse, and the routes more technical and devious...

"Although locals climb at the New year-round, spring and fall are the best seasons, and even during these times, it is not uncommon to get hosed with week-long rain storms."

Perhaps we have enough devious, badly bolted routes with shite weather in the UK to make it worth the effort!

I've been. I don't remember the routes being badly bolted or devious. Certainly compared to the Peak. More in keeping with Spain, I'd say, as was the quality. Well worth a visit.