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Siurana Beta (Read 2129 times)

James Malloch

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Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 10:38:15 am
Flicking through the Tarragona Climbs guide, it looks like a lot of Siurana crags have drops, narrow belay spots, fixed ropes etc to get to them.

Are there any good options which are more dog friendly? Would be good to be able to play between attempts, not worry about him running off a drop etc.

We also prefer nice spacious crag bases in general. Climbing is fine but get a bit of vertigo with some drops…

SA Chris

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#1 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 10:42:38 am
You mean options of other climbing spots in the region or which crags around Siurana would be OK?

James Malloch

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#2 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 10:59:03 am
You mean options of other climbing spots in the region or which crags around Siurana would be OK?

Ah sorry. We’re hoping to go to the Siurana valley itself. But the guide we have doesn’t make it that clear which sectors might be suitable (maybe the local definitive might be better).

spidermonkey09

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#3 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 11:55:03 am
Arboli would be broadly fine with a dog, including El Falco which is great. Its the best crag in Siurana for vert 7s even if it isn't quite in Siurana.
« Last Edit: November 01, 2022, 12:12:07 pm by spidermonkey09 »

KeithScarlett

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#4 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 12:07:57 pm
It's been ages since I've been but from memory it may be difficult to find what you're after  :-\

Can Piqui Pugui, one of the 'marquee' sectors, where Anabolica is has difficult access as in you have to scramble down a short but narrow and steep rocky section. I don't remember there being anywhere to run around at the bottom of the crag as it's enclosed by trees and vegetation.

El Pati and L'Olla offer easier access and more space at the bottom of the crags but there are substantial drops from the platforms.

I haven't climbed at Siuranella (opposite El Pati) but it looks to have little area at the base with an even longer drop.

I had the old local guide (crag diagrams with green and orange graphics from what I remember ;D) and it was basic as in you couldn't get a feel for spaciousness or crag suitability but maybe the current one has a crag selection table or provides more detail? If you can it might be worth popping into a shop to have a browse of the current definitive guide to see what you think.

Having said all that there will obviously have been plenty of people there with dogs so it's doable but maybe comes down to personal preference  :thumbsup:

jwi

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#5 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 12:13:05 pm
Are there any good options which are more dog friendly? Would be good to be able to play between attempts, not worry about him running off a drop etc.


Quite a few crags are ok. I assume that you mean to keep your dog leashed at all times.

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 12:23:02 pm
IIRC It's a small enough area with enough options that you could easily do a quick look about yourself to decide what's safe.

petejh

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#7 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 01:04:28 pm
Second El Falco, not droppy at the base. Brilliant crag for long 7s.

IanP

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#8 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 01:49:08 pm
It's been ages since I've been but from memory it may be difficult to find what you're after  :-\

Can Piqui Pugui, one of the 'marquee' sectors, where Anabolica is has difficult access as in you have to scramble down a short but narrow and steep rocky section. I don't remember there being anywhere to run around at the bottom of the crag as it's enclosed by trees and vegetation.

El Pati and L'Olla offer easier access and more space at the bottom of the crags but there are substantial drops from the platforms.

I'd agree on those's sectors.   Quite a few of the other valley sectors are probably better, don't think the following have any big drops though the bases aren't always particularly spacious between the path and the scrubby woodland:

Espero Primavera - sunny, good from high 6s to high 7s
L'Aparador - shady, excellent for mid to high 7s and some 8s
Can Cadolar - next to l'Aparador - shady, lows 7s to low 8s

As said El Falco is brilliant and should be relatively dog friendly (sunshine in afternoon), its north face round the corner has shade and sum excellent mid to high 7s.

The Arboli main crag seemed to be out of fashion when I was there earlier this year, Can Simiro is a lovely spot with some really good shorter routes (still generally around 20m) in mid 6s to mid 7s).

James Malloch

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#9 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 06:08:24 pm
Thanks for all the responses. Got these sectors folded over in the guide now. We will probably spend up to 2 weeks there so likely to be plenty for us to go at on those if we are doing 1 day on, 1 day off.

I also got recommend a route at Espero Primavera (Mandragora 7b+) and L’Aparador (Los Borrachos de Cornu 7c+) today so it’s good to hear they are both decent choices!

Siurana:
Espero Primavera
L'Aparador
Can Cadolar

Arboli:
El Falco
Can Simiro

We will keep the dog on the lead when there are others around (unless they are happy with him off), but it’s nice to have somewhere to play with him between attempts.

He’s been off 75% of the time on this trip as we often go to less popular crags and are the only ones there. But nice to have options which will work 👍🏻

James Malloch

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#10 Re: Siurana Beta
November 01, 2022, 06:09:22 pm
If anyone has any recommendations for Chulilia then they are welcomed too as it will be our next stop after Siurana 🙂

Will Hunt

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#11 Re: Siurana Beta
November 02, 2022, 09:23:22 am
Climbing is fine but get a bit of vertigo with some drops…

There must surely be some crags there with bouldering that doesn't top out?  :)

James Malloch

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#12 Re: Siurana Beta
November 02, 2022, 11:43:27 am
Climbing is fine but get a bit of vertigo with some drops…

There must surely be some crags there with bouldering that doesn't top out?  :)

After font I’m a top out machine! Finally have some psyche for the Grit this winter!

Dexter

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#13 Re: Siurana Beta
November 04, 2022, 09:26:54 am
We were at siurana earlier this week and there were a couple of people with dogs at the area that's starts at the far end of the road (can't remember the name sorry). There was a drop but the walking area was plenty large enough for dogs to chill out on.

Edit: it's the area labelled as 1 minute from P5 parking in the guide (although this has a sign on the road as P1)

MischaHY

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#14 Re: Siurana Beta
November 04, 2022, 10:28:05 am
I've spent a few months in Siurana now and would say you'll be fine at most crags with the dog. We even took ours up on the Siuranella stuff which is basically a thin ledge (he has a harness) and he loves it. He's a border collie.

Best options on the Valley side would be L'Olla, El Pati, El Cargol, Espero Primavera and L'aparador.

I'd say you'll especially enjoy L'Aparador based on what I seem to remember you wanted to climb grade and stylewise.

Oh and don't forget Herbolari, it's got some great easier lines but a few hard ones as well including a really quality 7a and 8a in the middle to the right of the slabs.

Enjoy!

 

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