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Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022 (Read 1637 times)

Duma

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Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 23, 2022, 05:55:31 pm
M - mobility stuff. Physio at lunch. He's happy with progress (though I've not really noticed any) so moving on to starting to load elbow. Went through a bunch of exercises (press up and plank stuff, rows and T's on TRX, "no hangs" at 80% rpe). Couple of sessions of this on alternate days and then easy circuits from the weekend. Much more optimistic afterwards, and elbow seemed to feel better for being used a bit.
12 hr night shift.
T - mobility stuff. Rehab stuff. Elbow def felt better for being loaded, though weak in extension for the high plank stuff. Worked out there's a total of three minutes planking in the rehab so counting that towards EoY target.
12 hr night shift.
W - mobility stuff. 12 hr night shift.
T - mobility stuff. Rehab stuff. 12 hr night shift.
F - mobility stuff. Run 5k, 25min, flat wet dark cold.
S - mobility stuff. Cheddar, freaky wall, did the 6a+ (Yes Men) a couple of times but mostly chatting. Pleased elbow held up and nice to be out.
S - mobility stuff. Rehab stuff

70.5 kg
2022 plank total 277 min

James Malloch

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#1 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 23, 2022, 07:24:40 pm
I’ve missed quite a few weeks as we didn’t climb for a while. Did lots of nice walks in Scotland though.

Came back to the EU 2 weeks ago now and back climbing again.

M. Got to font late on.

T. Went to patisserie. Went to 95.2. Circuits and a few odd 6B-C problems.

W. Back to 92.5 to do more of the easy circuit. Dog rolled in human shit (right next to the path/Boulder you dirty bastard) so bailed to clean him up.

T. Rain so drove south.

F. Potter around Limoges. Nice city. Carried on to the Ariege.

S. Climbed at Auzat. Did a 5, 6b and 6c. All felt nice.

S. Rest

M. Back to Auzat. Did a nice 7a+ (TR then led)

T. Rest. C25k run 1.

W. Sibada. Got a 7a onsight and then a (to me) really hard 7a+ onsight. Utterly pooped. Did a 7A at Laramade on the way to our van spot. Quick hour session there.

T. Rest. C25k run 2.

F. Sibada. Went up a 7b called Clip de Bloc and got it first RP. Then went up the 7a which joins it at half height. Got the first half onsight but had already done the top. Nearly dropped it!

S. Rest. C25k run 3.

S. Meant to climb but it rained lots so went for a walk. Came across a heard of sheep with a huge mountain dog which didn’t want us to get any closer. Diverted the route. Cool to see!


Nice to be back climbing. Haven’t tried anything hard really but seem to be at a similar level to how I was at the end of the last EU part of the trip despite not climbing as much in the U.K.

Got 8 weeks left now and planning to go to Siurana next. Then Chuilia, then maybe costa blanca. But need to work things out and check the weather. Should have a contract started to come back to in January which will be a shock but should hopefully be ready for work by then….

Aussiegav

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#2 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 23, 2022, 10:43:22 pm
Over did it club.
Thanks Duma, good luck with the elbow. Nice post James. Sounds like a good time. 

A week of almost normality after a crazy month. Not needed to drive to the hospice the last week. Trying to get established in my new role. Back to a structured week of training.

Monday -

Finger board session at home. Starting Vickie’s Programme again. Worked well last time, then I got the injuries to my knee.
Vickie’s Programme
Using hangs at 85% of max, do two sessions per week. Follow this schedule.
Week 1: 4sets;
Week 2: 4 sets;
Week 3: 5 sets;
Week 4: 7sec hang test when fully rested. Then repeat above 4 weeks.

Warm up
4 Quad block lifts.
2 hangs off edge open. 2 hangs off edge half Crimp

85% hangs. BW plus 4kg half crimp 4 hangs
85% hangs.  BW plus 10kg open 4 hangs
8mm edges. 3 isometric pulls, 1 hang at end. Max effort..

Tuesday

Went to the Depot in the evening.
Warm up circuit
Three Blues, three blacks & two reds. The first red involved a nasty 2 finger pocket match and it was too early to try that so I moved on to another red and flashed those two.
5 feet on Campus Pulls 2-5match. Did 2 sets leading each arm.
22mm 2-4-6 feet on. 2sets each arm. These felt harder than usual.

Campus
1-2-3. Just did 1 set each arm. They feel more awkward than effective.
1-3-5. 2 sets leading each arm.
1-4-5. 2 sets leading each arm. Campus felt 110% effort tonight.

Boulder Mileage Red Circuit
2attempts max. 2min rests. Tried 16, did 15, flashed 13. Good session. Lots of variety.


Wednesday -
Rest day. Forearm and finger mobility work.

Thursday -

Warm up
4 Quad block lifts. half crimp 15kg
4 Quad block lifts. Open, half crimp & 3 20kg.
2 hangs off edge open. 2 hangs off edge half Crimp
85% hangs. BW plus 5kg half crimp 4 hangs
85% hangs BW plus 10kg open 4 hangs
8mm edges
4 isometric pulls. Max effort. These felt a bit tweaky on the fingers


Friday - peloton and stretching

Saturday -

Went to the Depot in the morning. The goal was to try and send a yellow and some purples.
Warm up was the usual 3 blues, 3 black and two reds. It took two goes to the do the red. So I just did the one red. Felt tired on the red.

Campus warm up. 1-3-5. Did both ways but didn’t feel that spring in the pull.

Projecting session
Pulled on a few yellows and tried a few moves but wasn’t feeling fresh. So I tried the toe hook purple I’ve had a few sessions on now. Still can’t do the cross over move. Had 1 good go but the next two weren’t great. So I then did the first purple I did a few weeks back. Did that 2nd go.
Then tried the purple I did last week. It’s good problem, I’d  like to get dialled. It took me 4 goes.
But managed to salvage the session with some positive hard climbing.

Feet on Campusing 1min on:1min off
Did 5 sets. First 3 lasted a minute.  Then did 30s on the 4th set & 50 sec on the 5th.

In summary, I did too much on Tuesday and paid for it today.


Sunday.

Weights at the Depot

Warmup.
90s rowing
8squats with bar
8 bench Press bar +30 kg
8squats bar + 20kg

Super Sets. Squats / bench press 3sets of 8
Squats 30kg +bar/ bench press. 40kg +bar.
Knee felt ok doing squats. Wasn’t sure how’d it go.

Military Press
8 reps with the bar
4×5 military press bar + 10kg

Dips
1×5 with red band
4×5. At body weight.
Finished with upper body stretching & hip mobility work

« Last Edit: October 23, 2022, 10:50:56 pm by Aussiegav »

Yossarian

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#3 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 24, 2022, 01:20:34 pm
I dropped out of this shortly after Easter I think. Had a fairly promising start to the year, but then job contract didn't get renewed at the end of March, and things went rather downhill. Spent the following few months drinking (and eating too much) and then preparing to sell house, which became a full-time job through the summer. Finally moved out in mid August, though without having somewhere new to move into, so flitted between various Airbnbs in a kind of self-destructive-lite post-divorce limbo for a couple of months. Last week I finally got the keys to a house and have subsequently managed to reestablish some sense of perspective and positive attitude. Not to mention leveraging new start for all it's worth vis a vis healthy mind and body, etc. (This is sounding like the preface to Alan Partridge's Bouncing Back.)

On the down side, at the start of September my right ankle (featuring reconstructed calcaneus following sleepwalking accident in the early 2000s) suddenly got so painful I couldn't really walk anywhere for a week. It has subsequently improved and currently awaiting results, re whether it's osteoarthritis or something else. Got pretty upset about this too, but now hoping that losing weight and being more careful with it might give me a few more years before I have to have it operated on again.

I've not done any training / stretching / yoga since Easter, but have carried on going to the wall fairly frequently. Despite getting more and more out of shape, I've fairly bloody-mindedly persisted with climbing on the board and also cherry-picking hard crimpy problems in general, on the basis that if I'm going to fail to get to the top of anything, at least I won't have to watch loads of striped-tube-socked-wearing crossfit bros cruising up it.

M - Got keys to new house. Realised garage is smaller that I'd prev realised and board aspirations may have to be put on hold for a while.
T - Moved in. Lifted a lot of heavy (18x) boxes of books.
W - More unpacking
T - Wall. First time without a hangover for a while. My board warm-ups (which had felt increasingly less like warm-ups over the previous few months until I couldn't actually do the harder one) felt ok again. Tried various other stuff, and then spent some more time on the 7Aish crimp / edge prow problem I've been working on for a while. Got slightly further.
F - 8km walk - foot a bit achy but not too bad.
S - Wall. Did a bit of board by skin was a bit thin so attempted to pace myself. Did various new problems around the centre of the type I've been resolutely avoiding recently, and then resumed battle with prow problem. Got slightly further again. 9km walk later, and then 30min yoga and some stretching afterwards.
S - Wanted to go for a walk but foot was a bit painful. Various press weights, stretching, started some KB swings (but however well i warm up I always seem to get weird upper hamstring / groin tightness which feels horrid), and then 30min yoga.

106kg

Fiend

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#4 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 24, 2022, 01:30:02 pm
Welcome back Yoss, and I hope the gradual comeback continues.

Yossarian

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#5 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 24, 2022, 02:01:21 pm
Thanks. I've not put down any outlandish aims / ticklist this time, because I'm intending it to be the new normal vs get fit quick couch to 8a London Climber vlog feature.

Will Hunt

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#6 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 24, 2022, 02:06:54 pm
T - Moonboard session. A few things up to 6C then project shopping. Felt close on the 7A that I landed on but not enough in the tank to do it this session.

Sa - Crow Crag, Brimham. Some nice slabs between E1 and E3/E4ish in a variety of styles. Headpunt E5 at the end.

Nibile

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#7 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 24, 2022, 02:17:12 pm
Power Club

Mon - AM ab wheel. PM boxing bag.
Tue - AM ab wheel. PM garage session 3.
Wed - good mornings, high pulls, bentover row.
Thu - full body: goblet squat, pull ups, farmer's x12. Beautiful.
Fri - AM ab wheel. PM thruster, lower back.
Sat - bentover row, overhead carry, high pulls. Tired but ground through.
Sun - ab wheel, lower back.




Wellsy

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#8 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 24, 2022, 02:31:40 pm
Best of luck with your comeback Yoss

Monday - board session and climbing at the works. Board session went great. Bench Press up to 75kgs 5x5

Tuesday - Anston Stones, did The End 6C and the sit of it at 6C+ (don't think it adds a grade mind you). Also did the first move of Blind Bat 7A+ before fluffing the top as I couldn't remember it and it was dark + we only had one lamp and a phone light! But I have done the top of it before so I'll session it sometime and get the whole thing done. Cool progress; 6 months ago I was miles off that move

Wednesday - works session, kept it light

Thursday - rested

Friday - works session, kept it light

Saturday and Sunday - got sufficiently drunk that I'm now swearing off booze for the foreseeable... again. Just can't be getting in that state!

In the Lakes till Thursday, weather looks crap so largely just hiking, might see if the Bowderstone is dry tomorrow mind you. When I get back ill be on the HARD TRAINING again

Duncan Disorderly

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#9 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 25, 2022, 11:29:58 am
Post Kaly Blues Club...

M: Nowt
T: Work outing to the Depot - Suprisingly fun and was only a bit shit.
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Bloody Depot again! Coerced to go bouldering by my mate and my daughter... Had fun!

Rest week after Kalymnos - probably gonna take it easy for another week and then back on it.

mr chaz

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#10 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 25, 2022, 12:07:00 pm
Rested most the week and let skin heal after grit bashing last Sunday.

Su. Evening session on the board. Received a bunch of HardWood Holds as a birthday present, so spent an hour resetting the board, then about 45 mins of bouldering on them. Great to get some hard pockets on there and a few wooden slopers too, it needed to some diversity!

shark

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#11 Re: Power Club 667 17 - 23 Oct 2022
October 25, 2022, 05:15:37 pm
M. Chocolate Factory again with the mega classic Swedish Fish 5.12a in mind. A 10c and an 11a wall route to warm up. Eddie up first on Swedish Fish and cruised it making it look easy and lulled me. The line takes a snaking line linking flakes up an intimidating, impending wall. Instantly found it harder going than Eddie made it look. A couple of good rests but was sapped near the top on a juggy rail. Moved left and got a good sidepull but instantly knew I didn’t have it in me to pull on it and roll over. Scuttled back along the rail *knowing* that was going to make me tireder and I was doomed. Somehow composed myself and must have got something back as then did the move with  fingers almost uncurling on finishing jugs. Has to be 7b surely? Was spent at the end and wouldn’t have had it in me to redpoint it had I blown the top.

T.

W. Eddie keen for the Infirmary at Miller Fork as there was a reputedly soft and 12b that goes up an outrageously steep section that we’d watched a girl climb last week (Last Rites). I wasn’t keen as my limited acquaintance suggested it generally wasn’t my type of crag and Last Rites would be too steep . I led a supposed 11b that was tough and pumpy then fell off the top of a similar pumpy 11c (more like 11d/7a)Eddie had a go at his 12b falling off after the crux (a continuing theme for him) Felt I should embrace the steepness. First go got to the crux and fell off and couldn’t get back on. Armed with a prussik got  to the same point then dogged to the top. Third go fell off part way through the crux. Reasonably happy with that and enjoyed being on it though tweaked my knee on aggressive heel/toe.

T. My choice of crag and we went to Eastern Skybridge Ridge and had this lovely crag to ourselves. Dave Swain had recommended King Me there as the best 6c+ he’d ever done. Did two superb warm ups at 11a and 10d. Then had a go at an 11d Martin Rides Again and got spat off the first hard move and dogged to the top. Eddie failed to flash and I managed to redpoint but the rough rock took its toll on my fingertips. Moved towards King Me and Eddie strolled up a 12a wall climb to its left. I had a go at this but was tired and skin was thin and managed to fluff it high up which was annoying as it was easier than the 11d I’d just done and then annoyingly did the same thing on the redpoint. Had a rest as light was starting to fade and did King Me. It was a shame that I couldn’t really enjoy this great route as tiredness and screaming tips meant I had to painfully sprint between the rests. Got to meet my US friend Jerry at Redpoint BBQ afterwards for a good evening and my first drinks for a week.

F.

S. Still tired so left my shoes at home and belayed Eddie at Driveby

S. Early start to meet our American friends and an hour walk in to a ‘private’ crag to escape the weekend hordes. Nice place, good bants. Did a couple of scrappy wall routes to warm up then a much tougher one which I guess was hard 7a that Eddie declined. We then both did an excellent steep 12a which fortunately I was able to find a few kneebar rests on. Then went on a beautiful but tough 12a wall climb but fell off the hard low crux. Did the same on first redpoint with sore tips. Gave it a last blast and did the hard move but didn’t have anything left to keep going

Crazy changes of temperature this week. Dropped to 8/9 degrees on Tuesday then up to 24/25 at the weekend. Been so lucky with the weather being dry as October can be very iffy I gather. Forecast still looking good too.

 

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