[Duma]

M - mobility stuff.
T - mobility stuff. 2 min plank with variations. Walk round Holwell Tor.
W - mobility stuff. Some no handed slabs at Bonehill.
T - mobility stuff.
F - mobility stuff.
S - mobility stuff.
S - mobility stuff.

70.5 kg
2022 plank total 268 min

Still no change in elbow. Physio again tomorrow.

[shark]

Thanks Duma

M. AM Hotel gym. Supinated and pronated one arm locks. Weak and lats weirdly sore. Couldn’t work out if I’d strained them warming up or hadn’t recovered from fridays session Variety of stretching and core exercises. Recruitment pulls on Wedge. PM Onset of a cold probably Sonia’s but explained achey lats

T. Sightseeing/ill

W. AM Sightseeing ill. PM/Eve Airport and met Eddie. Sonia flew home and we drove to RRG - a gruelling 7.5 hours

T. Still ill. Head cold had spread to lungs. Chocolate Factory. Warmed up on Hip to the Jive 11b  and then got spanked on Grumpalump 11d which had pumpy climbing leading to a powerful move at mid height off a pocket - couldn’t even redpoint it! Eddie managed to redpoint but only just and by avoiding the pocket. Then did an interesting techy rib  Team Tough 11a which would have been absorbing if Eddie hadn’t been sucked into a a discussion about the Ukrainian situation with a loud anti-Putin Russian. Pride after the Grumpalump savaging was salvaged on JRats Back 12a which Eddie on sighted and I flashed.

W. Still ill. Bad night. Starting to lose my voice. Chocolate Factory again. Warmed up on Squirrelworker 11a. Eddie then went on the Wobbler 11d a short steep wall and was shut down. I did an easier one to it’s right One Makes You Taller 11a. Eddie then despatched Snozberries 12a a classic line up a steep headwall then a great cut loose over a bulge then steep juggy climbing to finish. I’d belayed Keith on this three years ago and, like Keith, Eddie despatched it with no drama. I was tired and feeling like shit but decided to give it a go and similarly did it without too much problem. See it is 11d in the latest guide. Witnessed some scary muppetry after. Finished off on the funky Toxicondendron 11b

S. Still ill. In danger of losing my voice. Hot weather and crowds forecast. Dave Swaine suggested Alcatraz at Miller Fork which was a good call as it was in the shade and we had the crag to ourselves. I led Dope on a Rope 11b to warm up which was good then had a go at the mega Fatal Vision 11c up a stunning rib. Third day on and still ill so banked on this being being technical with lots of rests which it was to begin with but not higher up. Fell off pumped out clipping the penultimate bolt. With beta and the draws it went ok on the redpoint despite being tired. Amazing line with route finding and sequences hard to work out at times. Then walked to Infirmary so Eddie could finish off. Driving out on the dirt track I failed on a short steep hill and reversed down and managed to drive off the road so one wheel was hanging off the edge of the drop. Fortunately got towed off by a passing climber in a 4wd truck 

S.

Really lucked out with the weather here as it can be iffy in October - forecast good too. Autumn colours starting. Cold is miserable but doesn’t seem to be affecting my climbing.

[Fiend]

Ooooh nice number Duma, should have left this one for me really 

M - elbow still injured
T - elbow still injured, did Project Vert
W - elbow still injured, but felt the best it has for months, only very mild pain in morning.
T - elbow still injured
F - elbow still injured
S - elbow still injured
S - elbow still injured, did some excellent rehab as follows:

[cheque]

got spanked on Grumpalump 11d which had pumpy climbing leading to a powerful move at mid height off a pocket - couldn’t even redpoint it!

We couldn’t do Grumpalump in 2013 when we were all doing 11ds in a couple of gos at the most. The first time I ever felt golfer’s elbow-type pain was from pulling on that pocket! I’m surprised it hasn’t been upgraded.

[Aussiegav]

Trying to get some consistency club.
The back half of the week I managed to get back into a routine.

Monday -

Depot in the morning.
Warmed up over 10problems then campused.

First time in ages. Managed 123- 135- 145. Twice leading both arms. Didn’t fail on any. Hope to get 1-4-6 & 1-3-6 at the end of this 6week block.

Finished off with 19 blacks in 19mins and a purple at the end.

Good session. Enjoyed this.

Tuesday
In London. Hospice then took Dad to Heathrow. He flies back to Australia.  Heavy hearted day

Wednesday -
Peloton & stretching

Thursday -
Did assessment after dinner at home
Half Crimp BW + 20kg 107kg
Open BW + 27kg. 114kg. Best I’ve done in a long time.


Friday - rest day

Saturday -

Warm up circuit
three V1-3, three V2-4, two V3-5

Feet on Campus Pulls 2-5match x5
22mm 2-4-6 feet on.  X4

Campus 1-3-5 foot free x2

V5-7 Project Session purples
1. Steep purple off undercling 4th go
2. Heel cam problem. Worked out the sequence, hitting the hold but not sticking it. Hopefully next weekend.

3. Steep pinches & underclings 2nd go. Nearly flashed this, dropped the last move. Did it next go and then did it again.

6a circuit on the circuit board.
4laps. 3min rests between laps. Got a good pump hanging on the big holds. Did it at a slow route climbing pace.


Sunday.
45min Peloton & stretching.

[duncan]

Have fun in RRG Simon.

M - 11km walk. Legs conditioning: Split squats, frog squats, single leg squats.
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, three finger crimp mainly, up to 37.5kg with the good hand. Rested painful wrist. Shuffled 2km, didn’t feel like lungs were going to catch fire (good); sore right shin (not so good).
W - Sore shin and wrist! Shoulder conditioning (Side planks etc.).
T - Legs conditioning: as above plus calf raises. R calf feels very weak. Walked 10km.
F - Spectacular DOMS in my calves, especially the right. Fingerboard pickups, 15mm edge, left only, to 40kg.
S - Calf DOMS. Walked 11k. Had my booster vaccination. Slept a lot.
S - Still very sleepy after booster. Walked 5km.

A fingerboard (pick-up) PB for my left hand. One step forward and two steps back for the running but it's now clear that I have a very weak right calf, probably a sequela of the cellulitis and remaining swelling. This would explain the shin soreness and is something I can work on.

Wrist is proving to be a bit of a nuisance. Onwards...

[spidermonkey09]

got spanked on Grumpalump 11d which had pumpy climbing leading to a powerful move at mid height off a pocket - couldn’t even redpoint it!

We couldn’t do Grumpalump in 2013 when we were all doing 11ds in a couple of gos at the most. The first time I ever felt golfer’s elbow-type pain was from pulling on that pocket! I’m surprised it hasn’t been upgraded.

Enjoying this sort of feedback as am going in a few weeks and will be avoiding this one!

Can't say I'm looking forward to the drive from Chicago though, especially as I'm the only one insured on the car currently!

[Will Hunt]

M - I believe I may have done some stretching
T - Moonboard. A couple of 7As which felt quite soft relative to the board. Horological had a brilliant last move, also Full Nelson.
W -
T - Intended to use board but work got in the way.
F -
S -
S - Curbar. Followed up Avalanche Wall then got stuck into Insanity which was a shock to the system. Didn't have a second green cam so didn't feel very well protected approaching the top. Surely this is E3? Then followed l'Horla and led The Toy which seemed soft at E1 if anything. Followed The Peapod which was delightful. While over at the slabs I went up Canoe thinking I'd get some gear in the top break only to find that none was available. Wasn't up for an ankle smasher trying to mantel the break so scuttled left into the chimney.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M. Evening board session, first after holiday and felt a bit off the mark.
T.
W.
T. Evening board session, much better and going well. Couldn't quite repeat some of the harder things I've put up recently, but close.
F.
S. Had a spare hour so fired up the grinder and carved a new undercut for the board, gnarly.
S. Full day pass and good weather forecast so headed to Burbage South. Warmed up in the boulder field and did a few laps on Tiger then headed up to Electrical Storm. Tried once before about a year ago, so worked it all out again and nearly had the crux move going out right. Made some good improvements to holding the key sloper. Wasn't gonna happen this session so I packed up and moved on after an hour or so. Fell off Attitude Inspector despite having a full handful of the finishing jug and lost a lot of skin in the process. Moved onto More Cheese Gromit, figured out the beta and had one good go, powering out going for the good hold on the nose. Couldn't repeat the first awkward move after that. Classic grit spanking day, just how I like it.

[Wellsy]

Monday - day after got back from Germany. Decided to potter at Burbage as had the day off, repeated some stuff. Did Dogs Arse LH... but only with a folded over pad so no dice. I'll get it sometime, just a really hard first move. Struggled on Violence but made some beta improvements. Didn't feel very recruited so went and had a big indoor session on the board in the evening and just did some hard fingery stuff.

Tuesday - went out in the morning and did Pock Sit 6C, which is actually my first proper cleanly done confirmef 6C on grit with a top out etc since my knee got hurt. Took about 45 mins including the warm-up so that was rather confidence inducing. Went to Anston in the evening and did the cool if a little soft Dark Lady 7A and a properly sandbagged 6B.

Wednesday - works session, pretty chilled really as was quite tired.

Thursday - benched, as I haven't for a while and have decided I want to push for 100kgs. Did 50x5, 60x5, 70x5, 75x5 for 5, then 40 for 20.

Friday - rest

Saturday - tried Definitive 5.12 6C, definitely felt hard! Did it in two halves bit just couldn't stick one move from the bottom. Confident it'll go next time. Couple of hours walk around the Tors in the valley

Sunday - rested essentially

Good week. Have been doing therapy things of late which have left me feeling raw but is a good thing to do. Made some new friends and reconnected with some old ones. Generally positive.

[Aussiegav]

I went up Canoe thinking I'd get some gear in the top break only to find that none was available. Wasn't up for an ankle smasher trying to mantel the break so scuttled left into the chimney.

I remember in great detail my solo of this in 2000. Having cruised up Canoe, I thought I’d bag the double & do Kayak. Got to the move half way up Kayak where I had to smear with my right. Spent ages trying/ not trying and then a sudden shower appeared from over the top.
Forcing me to progress upwards. Stood on wet smear and scuttle to the top. Pulled over and sat down half celebratory/ half knowing how close that could of gone wrong.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM ab wheel. PM 15' loaded carries. Tired.
Tue - AM ab wheel. PM clean, bentover row, lower back, Tyson push ups.
Wed - AM ab wheel. PM 1,5 edge after ages, on par. Farmer's, bar work.
Thu - AM ab wheel. PM Full body 36' EMOM (pull ups, goblet squat, press).
Fri - AM ab wheel.
Sat - Tyson push ups.
Sun - thruster, high pulls.

[shark]

Can't say I'm looking forward to the drive from Chicago though, especially as I'm the only one insured on the car currently!

With hindsight we should have taken an internal flight down to Louisville or Lexington. Change to doing that if you can

[spidermonkey09]

With hindsight we should have taken an internal flight down to Louisville or Lexington. Change to doing that if you can

What made it gruelling out of interest? Not sure I can run to an internal flight so will probably just suck it up.

[Coops_13]

M: Momentum Houston. Max hangs 90% +50lb. Moonboard limit bouldering on V7s and V8s. Managed several V7s

W: G1. Strength repeaters. Boulder triples on Tension 40deg V5 -> V4

T: Flagstaff Mountain. 30th birthday so went and did 30th Birthday Roof V6. Sent Battaglia's Bottom V7, a board-style climb that went quickly and Bob's Bulge V6, a classic slappy problem that did not.


S: Clear Creek Canyon. First session on Return of the Mossman V9. Feels hard. Slowly worked out my beta and was v close to managing crux move. Gave a few good links before body and skin started giving way. Went to a different boulder and sent Soft Serve V6 as a consolation.


S: Walk round Wonderland Lake

[shark]

The volume of traffic (mainly trucks) south of Chicago meant we were crawling for an hour. Took us 7.5 hours and we didn’t have a break. Some of the signposting leaves a bit to be desired. Despite writing out the directions and printing maps I still went off piste twice. If the car hasn’t satnav then suggest you have mobile data to use google maps. Also there are automated tolls nowadays in places so you have to log on to pay. We’ve tried and seems like we don’t owe anything but there is always the worry of a ball ache fine to deal with via the rental company afterwards.

[shark]

T: Flagstaff Mountain. 30th birthday so went and did 30th Birthday Roof V6.

Nice. Happy birthday

[Duncan Disorderly]

Kalymnos Club:

M: Griffig - F6a to warmup, Soft F7a (F6b+-6c), get back on F7b that I fell off earlier in the trip - piss it! Whoop whoop!
T: Rest/Work
W: Spartan wall - Finally manage to track down a willing belayer for Yanap (50m F7b-c depending on who you ask - Probably hard F7b or F7b/+)... Warm up on ace F6b/+ then Elliot rinses it putting the clips in... Doesn't make it look completely piss (and he's a strong lad) so opt for getting the beta and going for the flash rather than the onsight. All gravy tho as manage to cock up the lower wall so move into redpoint mode - 1st try get through low crux only for the right foot to pop reaching the jug after all the difficulties... Next go don't make that mistake and rinse the low crux but spend what seemed like an eternity trying to not fuck up the rest of the route (including the second crux that, while easier, is definitely droppable...) Make it through only to almost bin it clipping the chains (50m of rope and loads of drag)... All ends well though... Tick!
T: Multipitch 5c with Katie - Awesome!
F: Home
S: Sleep
S: Walk in't Peak with daughter...

Great trip! Did loads - more onsighting than expected but that was super cool and finished on a high... Ace!