[Fiend]

M - elbow still injured
T - elbow still injured, physio that was a bit promising.
W - elbow still injured
T - elbow still injured
F - elbow still injured, a bit of testing / recruitment indoors, extremely weak even on non-aggravational hangs.
S - elbow still injured
S - elbow still injured, slightly reaggravated on Easy Trad (tm).

[Duma]

Sounds a bit like my week!

[Wellsy]

Monday - climbed indoors, had a great time. Did some hard stuff.

Tuesday - climbed indoors, had a great time. Did some more hwrd stuff. This indoor bouldering malarkey is really fun.

Wednesday - flew to Germany

Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday - spent about 10 hours a day running demo games while working for my mates company at the world's biggest board game convention in Essen. In the evening drank loads and ate a fuckton of food. Went to a hardstyle night. Was a fucking great time. My body is begging me to eat at least one (1) vegetable now. Got home at 2am this morning after a lot of flying and trains.

Weight - increased

Recruitment - down

Slab climbing - inexplicably better

[Fiend]

SLAAABBBBSSSSS are good mmmkay.

Nice one on the board games and hardstyle night lol. I think your extra-curricular activities are the most fun ones to read about 

Would hopefully be able to do one myself at some point like:

Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday - spent about 10 hours a day running toy soldier painting demos while working for my mates company at the world's biggest lead figure convention in Essen. In the evening drank and ate little because I'm a fanny. Went to an industrial gabber night. Was a fucking great time. etc etc.

[Duma]

M - Morning sleep off nights, lunch physio for elbow. Apparently I have "...sprained the joint capsule in your right elbow". Prognosis: 2 weeks of no load, lots of mobilisation stuff, this should hopefully get back pain free full RoM. Also can do grip strength stuff and wrist curls as avoids loading the elbow while promoting blood flow etc. Planks and assisted 1 arm stuff on the uninjured side is ok too. Approx 3 months for full recovery so am hoping to be ok for late Nov sport  trip.
T - Slept all day, doh! Rehab stuff.
W - Rehab stuff. Wall to belay. Toproped a 6a slab one handed. Elbow maybe less clicky
T - Rehab stuff. Run, 6k, 29min. Elbow worse again, esp when extending while holding something (not heavy, just laundry or marmalade etc)
F - Rehab stuff. 2 min plank with variations (elbow doesn't like press ups). TCA eve to spot and chat, did some rehab stuff with the weights. They're FINALLY building a woodie at a sensible angle! Psyched for this once I'm fixed.
S - Walk in the woods. Rehab stuff but not much tbh.
S - Rehab stuff.

70 kg
2022 plank total 266 min

Not sure any real improvement, maybe RoM better but still twinging and clicking regularly.

[Wellsy]

SLAAABBBBSSSSS are good mmmkay.

Nice one on the board games and hardstyle night lol. I think your extra-curricular activities are the most fun ones to read about 

I wanna do Honorary Caley so I need to brush up my skills

Also yeah I'm a more interesting non-climber than I am an interesting climber by far :D

I'd definitely be up for that industrial gabber night too btw

[Will Hunt]

M - stretching
T - Moonboard sesh. Very enjoyable, though started off incredibly greasy which improved as the wall quietened down. Did Before the Sun Dies, The Commodore, and Mean Pinball which were all good. Psyched for more. Some stretching at the end.
W -
T - An hour on the garage board. Still trying to get back into the movement of this but made some slight progress trying to repeat old problems.
F - lunchtime ab ripper x. Went quite easy and still found it really hard work. Still sore today in places.
S - dunnyg's wedding. Nearly stuck my hand up during the "does anyone object" bit to try and save the poor bride from her fate but bottled it.
S - Ilkley. Quick headpunt of Beyond The Fringe. Struggled for inspiration for what to do next. Ended up going for a look at Olicana Arete and worked out a different way to do the top which makes it loads easier. Then did next go from the start. FFS, why did I not think to try it like this before?!

[duncan]

M - 10km walk.
T - Shoulder conditioning: side planks etc.
W - Very short shuffle: felt dreadful, still have a bit of cold? Fingerboard pick-ups, good hand only: 15mm edge, three finger crimp mainly, up to 35kg.
T - Westway bouldering to ~V1: forgot strapping, wrist not great. 10km walk
F - Short shuffle, feeling a bit less awful. Fingerboard pick-ups as above.
S - 12km walk.
S - The lad was away for the day on a friend’s birthday outing so headed to the Wye Valley for some therapeutic easy trad. with The Poet. Ambled up Nibelheim, a very good route which I had completely forgotten I’d done before. I really like the old quarried limestone on the North Wall, like Avon sea walls without the polish. Climbing all the Wagner-related routes would be an entertaining winter project-ette. There were a couple of other parties on the crag but 15 or 20 climbers’ cars parked along the road by The Rising Sun, surely they were not all in Woodcroft Quarry...?!  Drove home listening to the latest jamcrack with Dave Cuthbertson, really good. Shuffled for a mile, didn’t feel dreadful.

Good to get out but my wrist seems to be getting worse, which is tiresome.

[User deactivated.]

Surprised I didn't see you, Will, I was up there for most of the day.

M - hip mobility
T - fingerboard pickups, overhead press, ring I's, Y's, T's
W - 3 reps of 5 hard board problems with 2.5 min rest between reps. Core workout
T - full body mobility
F - 4 attempts on 4 new board problems. Ring muscle-up transitions.
S - full body mobility
S - Calf. Worked the moves on a possible link-up that starts sitting with one hand on the right arete finishing up Bernie. No rules needed or holds eliminated, just a defined start and end point creating a big diagonal line up the boulder, around 20 moves long. Feels like it will be around 7C just to the juggy flake near the start of Bernie, so the full line will be nails! Later did Awkward Classic whilst working on The Golden Shot. Did the end a few times off the ladder and found some new beta that suited me better.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM ab wheel. PM overhead carry, high pulls, lower back.
Tue - AM ab wheel. PM board climbing.
Wed - AM ab wheel. PM TBDL good mornings, TBDL high pulls.
Thu - goblet squat, bentover row, high pulls.
Fri - very light weights.
Sat - light weights.
Sun - weights.
Hard hard week. Training was the easy bit.

[Coops_13]

M:Flight delay screwed up training plans

W: Core. Press-ups and Shoulder Press. G1. Max hangs 90% +50lb. Limit boulders on Kilter 45deg, managed 2 V7, 1 V8. Some PE to finish

T: Lower body stretching. G1. Power endurance repeaters +10lb.

S: Elkland. Fun day exploring new area above Estes Park. Started at Smile for the Blade V8 which involved a long lock-off crux off a tiny crimp. My mate had the idea of dynoing past this which I was able to do. Moved onto Dream Climb (V8 but I thought V7) which went quickly after figuring out the first move. Tried the more direct line of OG@18 but was too warm with the slopers not feeling good. Finished on some unnamed V6/7 which was nails.

[shark]

Sorry to read your elbow has flared up badly again Matt


M. Tor with Steve. Climbed with Graham. Dogged up to headwall. Strangely greasy or glassy. Worked out a body position solution to the left foot move. Decided conditions too shit to try links. Went on Bens trying options on throw move.

T. Early AM Travel to Chicago

W.

T.

F. AM Hotel. Supinated and pronated one arm locks. Variety of stretching and core exercises. Recruitment pulls on Wedge.

S. Marathon day for Sonia ✅

S.

Having a great time in Chicago. Head down to RRG with Eddie on Weds night. Thoughts have been turning to the Oak. Will have a benchmarking sess with Steve when I get back and take it from there.

[Fiend]

Cheers for the support Shark's Chicken - actually not a flare-up, just the same as usual, but it was getting a bit late without someone starting Power Club so I thought I'd better do it and didn't have much exciting to say.

Weirdly enough my elbow feels the best it has for months (just mild pain) this morning after doing the hardest thing I've done all year yesterday evening (specifically non-aggravational though).

Wellsy Honourary Caley is ace!! I'd go along and try to repeat that....

[Aussiegav]

Still a disruptive week of training. Only managed two sessions.
Monday -

Went to the Depot late this evening. 20 problems on the Red Circuit V3-5. Rest between problems/attempts: 2 minutes

20 problems. 12 first go. 13 climbed. At least 2 problems where I made silly mistakes and didn’t do them.

Tuesday
Stretching

Wednesday -

Thursday -
Bike broke down in Midhopestones. Had to go this way due to man wanting to jump off the overpass on the M1.

Logged called with RAC at 6pm. Got bike picked up and dropped off at garage at 01:30am. 
Local pub was having an open bar. All you could eat & drink. Quite a random night in the end.

Friday -

Saturday -
Went to the Depot Saturday morning.
V5-7 Project Session purples
Steep pockets problem from last week. Did it 2nd go, used different beta.
Purple prow. 3 tries. Still can’t cross over to the pocket.
Undercut bunched problem 2 tries
Sloper blobs & dish 3 tries.
Heel cam problem 5 tries. One to come back to.

Sunday.
Peloton & stretching.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Kalymnos Club...

M: Rest/Work
T: Planned to head up to Griffig to finish off a few things but morning meetings overran and ended up @ Arginonta Valley with Katie and her mates - Put clips in stuff and did an ace F6b+
W: Headed up to Spartan Wall with the intention of doing Yanap, a 50m F7b (or UKC F7c!) that I have had my eye on for a while. Katie didn't like the belay spot so she wasn't willing to give me a catch so I had yet another onsighting day, did a bunch of F6b's and F6c's... Magic!
T: Little Eden - More of a boating, swimming and eating day with mates... We did a bit of climbing up to F6b... Paradise!
F: Chilled day with Katie - Put clips in some F5's in me trainers.
S: Telendos - Great day onsighting up to F7a.
S: Rest

Week 2 - Stil felt like I hadn't got started. GF hurting her foot and not wanting to belay on anything that I might fall off was definitely holding me back but meant that I did loads of great onsights at grades that I probably wouldn't usually do (I have always had a strange aversion to F6b+'s and F6c's on trips which is daft really as they're bloody brilliant!). Still did the odd F7 though and all the mileage meant that my skin and body were generally holding up fine - great!