[Droyd]

Hoping to get a bit of inspiration: my partner is about to finish her van conversion, which will mean that we'll be able to go away for weekends of swimming, hanging out in nice places and some bouldering on my end. However, she can't do walk-ins of more than 10-15 minutes or any terrain that's uneven or steep at the moment as she's on crutches, which limits things a bit. Anything scrambly is hell (so no St Bees/Porth Ysgo), and even places with a short walk-in are terrible if there are any jumbly rocky bits, scree, rough terrain, or a muddy slope between the car and the rock. It also has to be a pleasant place to be, so the opposite of roadside Peak lime caves like Sean's Roof. This is basically a really similar topic to toddler-friendly crags, but with more emphasis on ease of walk-in and less on any worry about her walking off cliff edges. She also can't carry pads so bonus points for things that need relatively few.

What I'd really like is to put together a list of places that fit all of these criteria - a walk-in that's as short and as flat as possible, while simultaneously being peaceful and away from a road. These places would have either loads of good problems to go at or just one destination problem - with that I'm thinking things like Lizard King, Corridors of Power, and Grande Fissure in NW, but all of those are ruled out as the approach would be shite.

So far I've come up with:

South Lakes limestone (Woodwell, Trowbarrow, etc.) - I've not been to any of these but my understanding is they all have quite short walk-ins and are easy to get around.

L’Apparramarra at Surprise View - supposedly roadside. Easy to get to?

The Bowderstone - ideal in every way except that I'm at the style.

Eskdale Fisherground - sounds ideal.

Roof of a Baby Buddha - I'm guessing it's possible, but probably not encouraged, to drive up to the crag, make a drop-off, then drive back down, ditch the car in the proper place, and walk back up (although it'd be good to know if that'd cause problems if caught).

Cromlech Boulders.

Info on pretty much anywhere in the UK, from Cornish beaches to roadside stuff in the Scottish mountains, would be very much appreciated. Cheers all.

[dontfollowme]

Tricky issue. Gibb Tor would fit the brief as would Robin Hood Stride parking on the top road.

[Duncan campbell]

From memory l’aparramara was not easy to get to and required climbing over a wire fence…

Quite a bit of Dartmoor granite would fit the bill; Bonehill, Hound Tor and Saddle Tor for sure.

[RobK]

Tremeirchion has plenty in that grade range and is essentially zero walk-in. Whether it is a nice place to be depends on your appetite for cow pat (and how recently the cows have been in the field).

[yetix]

If memory serves me correct surprise view you need to jump a fence

La grande fissure isn't a great approach for what you're asking for (and is so often wet and hard to find)

Buddha even with standard approach would be easier than bowderstone so I wouldn't be put off that

Elements of Carrock are roadside:
The prow
Mccaffies crack
Dan's wall/metronome

Woodwell over the road you may not be a fan of whilst short it's littered with slippery limestone rocks, but the side of not bad dave etc would be fine I think

Gouther could be okay if you dropped your partner off halfway through the walk in then parked at the parking and walked to meet? Has a bit of hill walking though?

Ogof in North Wales wouild likely be okay

As would the main part of caseg faith

Gwynant roadblock would be fine

If crossing over a small gate is okay then maybe bustach would be okay (if done from power station or Campsite (Campsite now charges 5£ per person just to park!))


Flick of the Wrist would be okay

Craig penial would be okay

Trowbarrow would be okay

I think farlton would be okay

[yetix]

Tremeirchion is some of the best UK lime going Rob! But also I grew up on a farm...

[BrutusTheBear]

Quite a bit of Dartmoor granite would fit the bill; Bonehill, Hound Tor and Saddle Tor for sure.

Mrs BtB has walking difficulties and doesn't usually get involved in bouldering outings because of accessibility.  Bonehill is a super reliable place for our family to do a bouldering day together. 

Bonehill fits the bill perfectly, bouldering is literally crawling distance from the car and has a lot in the 7a to 7c range.  Flat well grazed lawns between the rocks too.

Hound Tor and Saddle would be a little more involved/strenuous (but doable) for a crutch user and both require some up hill and negotiation of rougher ground to get to.
Leigh Tor is a short flat ish walk for one very good 7b.

Can't think of a single coastal venue in  Devon and Cornwall that isn't going to be tricky on crutches.  Most involve scrambling especially when the tide is coming in!

Lynmouth East is very accessible flat paved footpath until you reach the beach, then shingle and big pebbles for 200m or so until you reach the 1st boulders.  It is the most accessible coastal venue I can think of in Devon or Cornwall.   

[Nutty]

Brimham?

Another vote for Bonehill.

Neddyfields bouldering wall on Portland for something coastal.

[SA Chris]

I'm scratching my head for Scottish options! Wolfcrag Quarry near Stirling has a pavement that goes right into the quarry itself, and options of lowball traverses. It is a quarry though...

[andy popp]

The approach to Farleton is neither flat nor short.

Harmers in Cheshire fits the bill very nicely.

[yetix]

Did you come from Newbiggin side? Or from the Burton Road side? It's pretty much a flat walk to New Rose etc from that Newbiggin side... There's a slight uphill towards the end, but no different to lizard king which was mentioned by the OP. And it's approx 15 mins unless my memory is failing me

Edit. Re read LK comment, so perhaps farelton is a no then (I'd say it's still a fair bit easier the LK)

[andy popp]

Ah, I didn't know there's an approach from Newbiggin. I was struggling to remember the name of Newbiggin. That might be a possibility in it's own right. It's a lovely place to be.

[BrutusTheBear]

I once piggy backed Mrs BtB into the lower boulders at Wimberry. 20 years or so ago but presumably, if I can carry an adult human most of the way, it should be doable on crutches.

Forest Rock! 

Dinas Rock I remember as being fairly accessible at least to get to Kennelgarth Wall.

 

[Fultonius]

I'm scratching my head for Scottish options! Wolfcrag Quarry near Stirling has a pavement that goes right into the quarry itself, and options of lowball traverses. It is a quarry though...

Having never been a shouldn't comment but... Hmmn....

On the other hand, Dumby is a 3 minute walk - rough ground in some bits but moderately doable with crutches and assistance and certainly ticks the bouldering boxes. Good swimming locations too, Loch Lomond, trossachs etc.

Nice outlook at the far end of the crag.

[GCW]

Longridge.

I wouldn’t recommend Farleton from either walk in.

[sherlock]

Dumby isn't a bad shout.
And Almscliff.If it's muddy she could use her crutches to balance along the wall....

[SA Chris]

I'm scratching my head for Scottish options! Wolfcrag Quarry near Stirling has a pavement that goes right into the quarry itself, and options of lowball traverses. It is a quarry though...

Having never been a shouldn't comment but... Hmmn....

Comment away. I did say it's a quarry, surely people appreciate what that means. It does tick the access box, no denying.

Can't believe you've never been though; easy access on the way to many places.

Thirlstane is a lovely spot, walk in is short and pretty flat IIRC. Might be a bit pebbly.

Sandyhills she can chill on the lovely beach while you wander off and bag a problem or two.

Garheugh is OK (i think) too.

[Fultonius]

Can't believe you've never been though; easy access on the way to many places.

Just always sounded a bit shit, and everyone always seems to pick up elbow tweaks there (which I'm prone to) so I've just always steered clear.

[sherlock]

Lakes- Langdale boulders?
North Wales RAC boulders?
Seem to remember Garheugh was pretty big pebbles.

[Fiend]

Garheugh is pebbly yes (small ones but probably not crutch-friendly), although short.

Thirlstane might be pebbles or might be shells depending on the ways of the world.

Wolfcrag is worth going to if you live in Stirling and don't have any petrol money.

For Scotland, Torridon is the obvious choice despite a bit of bogginess.

If you can manage that Ruthven might be okay but again bogginess.

Loch Sloy Roadside Boulder is a bit more than 15 mins but it is on a road - and I have a friend who did it on crutches.

Craig Peniel is 15 mins uphill on a 4WD track then a few mins across rough grass and bog, lovely spot though.

Harmer's is a nice choice, needs a dry spell though.

Carrock is a good choice as there's enough close stuff.

Gouther could be awkward and boggy.

Gwynant Roadbloc might have an awkward fence / wall crossing.

Tan Y Grisiau is on the upper edge of 15 mins to Clogwyn Yr Oen but has the easiest uphill walk around - it's a road.

Little Orme crags are a fairly gentle walk, slightly rocky but not long nor boggy.

Lots of Marine Drive stuff ofc.

[sdm]

Forest Rock! 

Dinas Rock I remember as being fairly accessible at least to get to Kennelgarth Wall.

Agree on both counts.

Forest Rock fits the criteria perfectly: 30 metre walk in. Quiet village location. Pub that does decent pizza next door. People have a love/hate relationship with the style (steep and burly, with a lot of undercuts and good holds).

Kennelgarth wall at Dinas Rock is a 5 minute walk along a wheelchair-friendly flat path. Most of the other walls there involve some element of scrambling but there's loads to keep you going at Kennelgarth if you like 3-D polished lime training venues. There's at least 3 places you can swim there, 2 of which would be accessible on crutches.

[dunnyg]

The calf at Ilkley is in vogue today, and fits the criteria. Can be a bit of a circus on a weekend though.

[SamT]

Must be some northumberland venues.

Bowden/Back Bowden?
Dovehole Boulders, Goatshill,  Cant quite remember the walkins, but mainly fields with the odd style, as opposed to scree/rubble.

[JamieG]

Widdop and Earl crag (pinnacle end)  might fit the bill. Both lovely with great problems. Widdop is a longer walk ~10mins but almost all along a track. Earl is ~5mins across flat ground but may be a little rough at points. Think it would be totally doable on crutches. Taken my kids to both easily.

[edshakey]

I seem to remember the Earl pinnacle end approach was fairly muddy over winter? And the drop down to the boulders can be steep. Too tricky for crutches?

I'm intrigued by some of these suggestions - how doable is soft ground in crutches? Do you need wide bases on the crutches like snow shoes? 

[JamieG]

I think you are right Ed. It probably is too soft underfoot at Earl in winter for crutches. Shame, the problems at the pinnacle end are brilliant.

[Bradders]

Yorkshire
- Almscliff
- Brimham
- Ilkley Cow & Calf area
- Earl Crag (parking at the top opposite the Buckstone - I think it'd be fine on crutches)
- Eavestone (although I think to get up to the buttress with Sky Diamond it's quite steep for the last 15metres)
- Widdop
- Woodhouse Scar
- Mytholm Steeps
- Caley main crag (roadside is a but steep, muddy and slippery so despite being very short may not fit the bill)

[steveri]

Would Newstones work? Buckstones Edge and Longridge are both super short (but not pan flat). Buckstones is right by an A road but faces away so feels quieter. Near Newbiggin is Great Stones of Fourstones, small but fun and v short walk.

[spidermonkey09]

Earl would be fine with crutches. Might be fucking freezing if not climbing though, it's sometimes cold enough when you are!

[edshakey]

Shame, the problems at the pinnacle end are brilliant.

Agreed, not been much but will be aiming to get back soon.

Might be fucking freezing if not climbing though, it's sometimes cold enough when you are!

That's my main memory of the crag - beautiful views on a clear sunny winters day, but so horrendously cold that I couldn't feel a thing! Not sure i'd want to be there just sitting and watching

[Bradders]

I've really never understood the whole "Earl is always freezing" rep. It's no more so than anywhere else that gets less sun in winter, and very often the predominant westerlies can be blowing right over the top meaning below the edge it's nice and sheltered. I've had some absolutely magic days there in really cold conditions.

[andy_e]

Plus it's dry when it rains...

[cheque]

I'm intrigued by some of these suggestions - how doable is soft ground in crutches? Do you need wide bases on the crutches like snow shoes? 

Depends if you’re weight-bearing on your bad leg or not.

[spidermonkey09]

I've really never understood the whole "Earl is always freezing" rep. It's no more so than anywhere else that gets less sun in winter, and very often the predominant westerlies can be blowing right over the top meaning below the edge it's nice and sheltered. I've had some absolutely magic days there in really cold conditions.

So have I tbf but absolutely critical to get the wind right!

[SA Chris]

Bowden/Back Bowden?

Back Bowden is always longer than you remember, and can be soft slippery mud, both kids went over if that's any yardstick (although one falls over her own feet a lot). Main part of Bowden has a fairly long approach with dry stone wall walls and stiles. Can't remember far end, recall it's a bit bouldery. Raven's by Bowden? Once bracken has died off. Not much out the 6es though. 

[Paul B]

Earl would be fine with crutches.

Disagree with this (as someone who has spent a considerable amount of time on crutches). I'm sure it's possible but I wouldn't say it's a good choice.

[Will Hunt]

Sorry to seem contrarian but I think some of the Yorkshire suggestions have missed this:

even places with a short walk-in are terrible if there are any jumbly rocky bits, scree, rough terrain, or a muddy slope between the car and the rock

Earl: Getting to the top of the crag is fine but there's a squeeze to get down to the boulders isn't there? And you might only be able to access the top tier of boulders, albeit there are good problems there. Same might apply to Woodhouse but can't remember.

Eavestone: Getting to the Sky Diamond buttress is difficult without crutches... Is there any other bouldering that would be recommended to visitors to travel for that meets the criteria? Probably not.

Almscliff: Approach is really slippy for a lot of the winter. There's also the one stile to climb over from the road and a squeeze stile at the top. Not sure how manageable these are with Ms Droyd's mobility.

Caley Main: you might struggle to get off the path to the boulders?




Brimham is a good suggestion. Flattest approach to things would be to go to Castle Rock then down to Cleft Buttress, exploring the edge north and south as much as you're able from there.

Ilkley Calf is in vogue and works perfectly.

Widdop is a good shout. It might be pushing the length of walk-in but it's a flat track and the boulders are all neatly arranged on a smooth grassy slope. I think I've had a pram there.

[Johnny Brown]

Peak, in vague order of decreasing accessibility but ascending aesthetically:
Sean's roof
Raven's tor
Rheinstor
Rubicon
Burbage North
Curbar Trackside
Stanage App North
Windgather
Froggatt Top (long but flat, I've taken a pram)
Roaches Lower tier (uphill but again pram access)
Not convinced by Widdop or Wimberry if you want to actually get to the boulders rather than just sit by the reservoir.

[andy_e]

roadside stuff in the Scottish mountains

Torridon is good, except for one steep step up a terrace. Ardmair Beach might work but I've no idea how crutches perform on flat pebbles. Ruthven is a sustained pitch, not so steep, quite short, but on good path. Farr might be suitable but gets a bit rooty on the final section. The pathside stuff at Duntelchaig is about 10 mins on a good track. Cummingston could work, although the final bank down to the beach is steep. Dumby would probably be OK.

[SA Chris]

You can get down the steep part of the approach to East part of Cummingston using the slide in the playground. Not great getting back up though.

[T_B]

Bowden/Back Bowden?

Back Bowden is always longer than you remember, and can be soft slippery mud, both kids went over if that's any yardstick (although one falls over her own feet a lot). 

I’ve hopped out of Back Bowden without crutches . It’s fine!

Better than the Gouther suggestion which is bad enough on two feet (wet, spread out, steep, moss covered and rocky in places). 90% of Carrock would be a nightmare as well. Steep, slippery talus with crutches 

Has anyone mentioned Anston? Not everyone’s cup of tea, but we used to go a lot back in pram pushing days and it’s pleasant enough to hang out.

[nai]

I'm scratching my head for Scottish options! Wolfcrag Quarry near Stirling has a pavement that goes right into the quarry itself, and options of lowball traverses. It is a quarry though...

Having never been a shouldn't comment but... Hmmn....

I've been and feel qulified to say... Hmmmm

[SA Chris]

I’ve hopped out of Back Bowden without crutches . It’s fine!

His Eminence? richieb did the same!

[andy_e]

Sorry Fiend I totally missed that you'd made the same suggestions on the previous page.

re. Wolfcrag, I love it, but I wouldn't travel from anywhere further than about Bridge of Allan to climb there. On a similar tip, what's the access to Cambusbarron like? Spank the Monkey/Monkey Spanking supposed to be classics. And who doesn't like hanging around in a quarry?!

[sherlock]

[quote author=andy_e link=topic=33270.msg667252#msg667252 date=16

Torridon is good, except for one steep step up a terrace. Ardmair Beach might work but I've no idea how crutches perform on flat pebbles. Ruthven is a sustained pitch, not so steep, quite short, but on good path. Farr might be suitable but gets a bit rooty on the final section. The pathside stuff at Duntelchaig is about 10 mins on a good track. Cummingston could work, although the final bank down to the beach is steep. Dumby would probably be OK.
[/quote]


The muddy bank at Torridon can be avoided by traversing rightwards from the base of the muddy trench which is level but boggy and brings you out by Celtic Knot area.
Ardmair Beach has a short but steep eroded bank to access the pebble beach  and not sure I'd fancy the pebbles and seaweed on crutches.
Ruthven might be a bit of a stretch.
You're right about the Jamie/Farr Boulder though unless it's been engulfed by the new plantation by now.
I think generally people are underestiming/forgetting what a pita getting around on crutches can be.

[Bradders]

Trowbarrow would be perfect. Loads to work your way through and a generally pleasant spot.

[andy_e]

You're right about the Jamie/Farr Boulder though unless it's been engulfed by the new plantation by now.

yes it has...

I think generally people are underestiming/forgetting what a pita getting around on crutches can be.

sorry, i have no idea how dififcult it is! trying to think of the best options. maybe the shelterstone boulders would be one to avoid for sure.

[T_B]

I’ve hopped out of Back Bowden without crutches . It’s fine!

His Eminence? richieb did the same!

No. County Ethics.

[sherlock]

You might get there but you wouldn't be getting back!

[sherlock]

[maybe the shelterstone boulders would be one to avoid for sure.
[/quote]

You might get there but you wouldn't be getting back!

[SA Chris]

I’ve hopped out of Back Bowden without crutches . It’s fine!

His Eminence? richieb did the same!

No. County Ethics.

Ouch. misread Back Bowden as Bowden. That's a nasty hop.

[Droyd]

Well that's absolutely loads to go at - thanks all! For complex reasons the crutches will be a thing for at least the medium term and hopping or just grinning and bearing any discomfort are not options, so I particularly appreciate the detail people have given on walk-ins and pointing out places that might not be as appropriate as they seem. It's been a bit of a learning curve in terms of realising that things that seem completely trivial can be horrendous, in terms of managing a decent length walk-in only to find that the final ten-metre scramble to the base of the crag is a horrorshow.

Cheers everyone

[JamieG]

Sorry to hear that Droyd, but if that is the case I would definitely scrap Earl, Froggatt and Wimberry off the list. Widdop still might be doable, but I'd leave it until you have tried other better suited venues.