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UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches (Read 4572 times)

Droyd

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UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 03:47:28 pm
Hoping to get a bit of inspiration: my partner is about to finish her van conversion, which will mean that we'll be able to go away for weekends of swimming, hanging out in nice places and some bouldering on my end. However, she can't do walk-ins of more than 10-15 minutes or any terrain that's uneven or steep at the moment as she's on crutches, which limits things a bit. Anything scrambly is hell (so no St Bees/Porth Ysgo), and even places with a short walk-in are terrible if there are any jumbly rocky bits, scree, rough terrain, or a muddy slope between the car and the rock. It also has to be a pleasant place to be, so the opposite of roadside Peak lime caves like Sean's Roof. This is basically a really similar topic to toddler-friendly crags, but with more emphasis on ease of walk-in and less on any worry about her walking off cliff edges. She also can't carry pads so bonus points for things that need relatively few.

What I'd really like is to put together a list of places that fit all of these criteria - a walk-in that's as short and as flat as possible, while simultaneously being peaceful and away from a road. These places would have either loads of good problems to go at or just one destination problem - with that I'm thinking things like Lizard King, Corridors of Power, and Grande Fissure in NW, but all of those are ruled out as the approach would be shite.

So far I've come up with:

South Lakes limestone (Woodwell, Trowbarrow, etc.) - I've not been to any of these but my understanding is they all have quite short walk-ins and are easy to get around.

L’Apparramarra at Surprise View - supposedly roadside. Easy to get to?

The Bowderstone - ideal in every way except that I'm :shit: at the style.

Eskdale Fisherground - sounds ideal.

Roof of a Baby Buddha - I'm guessing it's possible, but probably not encouraged, to drive up to the crag, make a drop-off, then drive back down, ditch the car in the proper place, and walk back up (although it'd be good to know if that'd cause problems if caught).

Cromlech Boulders.

Info on pretty much anywhere in the UK, from Cornish beaches to roadside stuff in the Scottish mountains, would be very much appreciated. Cheers all.

dontfollowme

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#1 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 03:55:45 pm
Tricky issue. Gibb Tor would fit the brief as would Robin Hood Stride parking on the top road.

Duncan campbell

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#2 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 03:59:48 pm
From memory l’aparramara was not easy to get to and required climbing over a wire fence…

Quite a bit of Dartmoor granite would fit the bill; Bonehill, Hound Tor and Saddle Tor for sure.


RobK

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#3 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:01:54 pm
Tremeirchion has plenty in that grade range and is essentially zero walk-in. Whether it is a nice place to be depends on your appetite for cow pat (and how recently the cows have been in the field).

yetix

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#4 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:31:29 pm
If memory serves me correct surprise view you need to jump a fence

La grande fissure isn't a great approach for what you're asking for (and is so often wet and hard to find)

Buddha even with standard approach would be easier than bowderstone so I wouldn't be put off that

Elements of Carrock are roadside:
The prow
Mccaffies crack
Dan's wall/metronome

Woodwell over the road you may not be a fan of whilst short it's littered with slippery limestone rocks, but the side of not bad dave etc would be fine I think

Gouther could be okay if you dropped your partner off halfway through the walk in then parked at the parking and walked to meet? Has a bit of hill walking though?

Ogof in North Wales wouild likely be okay

As would the main part of caseg faith

Gwynant roadblock would be fine

If crossing over a small gate is okay then maybe bustach would be okay (if done from power station or Campsite (Campsite now charges 5£ per person just to park!))


Flick of the Wrist would be okay

Craig penial would be okay

Trowbarrow would be okay

I think farlton would be okay

yetix

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#5 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:32:06 pm
Tremeirchion is some of the best UK lime going Rob! But also I grew up on a farm...

BrutusTheBear

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#6 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:34:15 pm
Quite a bit of Dartmoor granite would fit the bill; Bonehill, Hound Tor and Saddle Tor for sure.
Mrs BtB has walking difficulties and doesn't usually get involved in bouldering outings because of accessibility.  Bonehill is a super reliable place for our family to do a bouldering day together. 

Bonehill fits the bill perfectly, bouldering is literally crawling distance from the car and has a lot in the 7a to 7c range.  Flat well grazed lawns between the rocks too.

Hound Tor and Saddle would be a little more involved/strenuous (but doable) for a crutch user and both require some up hill and negotiation of rougher ground to get to.
Leigh Tor is a short flat ish walk for one very good 7b.

Can't think of a single coastal venue in  Devon and Cornwall that isn't going to be tricky on crutches.  Most involve scrambling especially when the tide is coming in!

Lynmouth East is very accessible flat paved footpath until you reach the beach, then shingle and big pebbles for 200m or so until you reach the 1st boulders.  It is the most accessible coastal venue I can think of in Devon or Cornwall.   




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#7 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:46:06 pm
Brimham?

Another vote for Bonehill.

Neddyfields bouldering wall on Portland for something coastal.

SA Chris

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#8 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:48:55 pm
I'm scratching my head for Scottish options! Wolfcrag Quarry near Stirling has a pavement that goes right into the quarry itself, and options of lowball traverses. It is a quarry though...

andy popp

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#9 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:50:57 pm
The approach to Farleton is neither flat nor short.

Harmers in Cheshire fits the bill very nicely.

yetix

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#10 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 04:53:26 pm
Did you come from Newbiggin side? Or from the Burton Road side? It's pretty much a flat walk to New Rose etc from that Newbiggin side... There's a slight uphill towards the end, but no different to lizard king which was mentioned by the OP. And it's approx 15 mins unless my memory is failing me

Edit. Re read LK comment, so perhaps farelton is a no then (I'd say it's still a fair bit easier the LK)


andy popp

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#11 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 05:02:50 pm
Ah, I didn't know there's an approach from Newbiggin. I was struggling to remember the name of Newbiggin. That might be a possibility in it's own right. It's a lovely place to be.

BrutusTheBear

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#12 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 05:06:19 pm
I once piggy backed Mrs BtB into the lower boulders at Wimberry. 20 years or so ago but presumably, if I can carry an adult human most of the way, it should be doable on crutches.

Forest Rock! 

Dinas Rock I remember as being fairly accessible at least to get to Kennelgarth Wall.

 

Fultonius

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#13 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 05:08:29 pm
I'm scratching my head for Scottish options! Wolfcrag Quarry near Stirling has a pavement that goes right into the quarry itself, and options of lowball traverses. It is a quarry though...

Having never been a shouldn't comment but... Hmmn....

On the other hand, Dumby is a 3 minute walk - rough ground in some bits but moderately doable with crutches and assistance and certainly ticks the bouldering boxes. Good swimming locations too, Loch Lomond, trossachs etc.

Nice outlook at the far end of the crag.

GCW

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#14 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 05:10:49 pm
Longridge.

I wouldn’t recommend Farleton from either walk in.

sherlock

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#15 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 05:13:26 pm
Dumby isn't a bad shout.
And Almscliff.If it's muddy she could use her crutches to balance along the wall....

SA Chris

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#16 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 05:19:11 pm
I'm scratching my head for Scottish options! Wolfcrag Quarry near Stirling has a pavement that goes right into the quarry itself, and options of lowball traverses. It is a quarry though...
Having never been a shouldn't comment but... Hmmn....

Comment away. I did say it's a quarry, surely people appreciate what that means. It does tick the access box, no denying.

Can't believe you've never been though; easy access on the way to many places.

Thirlstane is a lovely spot, walk in is short and pretty flat IIRC. Might be a bit pebbly.

Sandyhills she can chill on the lovely beach while you wander off and bag a problem or two.

Garheugh is OK (i think) too.


Fultonius

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#17 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 05:34:27 pm

Can't believe you've never been though; easy access on the way to many places.

Just always sounded a bit shit, and everyone always seems to pick up elbow tweaks there (which I'm prone to) so I've just always steered clear.

sherlock

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#18 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 06:03:32 pm
Lakes- Langdale boulders?
North Wales RAC boulders?
Seem to remember Garheugh was pretty big pebbles.

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#19 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 06:33:28 pm
Garheugh is pebbly yes (small ones but probably not crutch-friendly), although short.

Thirlstane might be pebbles or might be shells depending on the ways of the world.

Wolfcrag is worth going to if you live in Stirling and don't have any petrol money.

For Scotland, Torridon is the obvious choice despite a bit of bogginess.

If you can manage that Ruthven might be okay but again bogginess.

Loch Sloy Roadside Boulder is a bit more than 15 mins but it is on a road - and I have a friend who did it on crutches.

Craig Peniel is 15 mins uphill on a 4WD track then a few mins across rough grass and bog, lovely spot though.

Harmer's is a nice choice, needs a dry spell though.

Carrock is a good choice as there's enough close stuff.

Gouther could be awkward and boggy.

Gwynant Roadbloc might have an awkward fence / wall crossing.

Tan Y Grisiau is on the upper edge of 15 mins to Clogwyn Yr Oen but has the easiest uphill walk around - it's a road.

Little Orme crags are a fairly gentle walk, slightly rocky but not long nor boggy.

Lots of Marine Drive stuff ofc.

sdm

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#20 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 07:08:05 pm
Forest Rock! 

Dinas Rock I remember as being fairly accessible at least to get to Kennelgarth Wall.

Agree on both counts.

Forest Rock fits the criteria perfectly: 30 metre walk in. Quiet village location. Pub that does decent pizza next door. People have a love/hate relationship with the style (steep and burly, with a lot of undercuts and good holds).

Kennelgarth wall at Dinas Rock is a 5 minute walk along a wheelchair-friendly flat path. Most of the other walls there involve some element of scrambling but there's loads to keep you going at Kennelgarth if you like 3-D polished lime training venues. There's at least 3 places you can swim there, 2 of which would be accessible on crutches.

dunnyg

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#21 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 07:27:28 pm
The calf at Ilkley is in vogue today, and fits the criteria. Can be a bit of a circus on a weekend though.


SamT

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#22 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 07:52:55 pm
Must be some northumberland venues.

Bowden/Back Bowden?
Dovehole Boulders, Goatshill,  Cant quite remember the walkins, but mainly fields with the odd style, as opposed to scree/rubble.

JamieG

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#23 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 07:58:05 pm
Widdop and Earl crag (pinnacle end)  might fit the bill. Both lovely with great problems. Widdop is a longer walk ~10mins but almost all along a track. Earl is ~5mins across flat ground but may be a little rough at points. Think it would be totally doable on crutches. Taken my kids to both easily.

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#24 Re: UK 7A-7C with short, easy approaches
October 05, 2022, 08:23:06 pm
I seem to remember the Earl pinnacle end approach was fairly muddy over winter? And the drop down to the boulders can be steep. Too tricky for crutches?

I'm intrigued by some of these suggestions - how doable is soft ground in crutches? Do you need wide bases on the crutches like snow shoes?  :-\

 

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