[haydn jones]

Definitely keen for an updated Topo. I only live 10 minuets away now so as soon as the weather's better keen to check it out.

[Bradders]

Prime example, I noticed this had been put on yesterday with Chris suggesting it was new, when it's basically problem 22 from the ACD guide just maybe from a move lower...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ilkley_cow_and_calf-547/coppingers_calves-670097

[Fiend]

This and the climbing style is all looking alarmingly "Limestone climbing on grit" 

[User deactivated.]

This and the climbing style is all looking alarmingly "Limestone climbing on grit" 

For the better 

[TravisDean]

Prime example, I noticed this had been put on yesterday with Chris suggesting it was new, when it's basically problem 22 from the ACD guide just maybe from a move lower...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ilkley_cow_and_calf-547/coppingers_calves-670097

I'd be interested in an up to date topo too, as I also projected this back in May thinking it was an FA 
It sounds like it was the same problem https://youtube.com/shorts/Uzo-B4O9sAY?feature=share

I work in Ilkley so often go after work or at lunch if anyone ever wants a spot

[Bradders]

Prime example, I noticed this had been put on yesterday with Chris suggesting it was new, when it's basically problem 22 from the ACD guide just maybe from a move lower...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ilkley_cow_and_calf-547/coppingers_calves-670097

I'd be interested in an up to date topo too, as I also projected this back in May thinking it was an FA 
It sounds like it was the same problem https://youtube.com/shorts/Uzo-B4O9sAY?feature=share

I work in Ilkley so often go after work or at lunch if anyone ever wants a spot

I knew it rang a bell, I was there one day when you were trying it! Actually looks really good. But yeah, basically an amalgam of problems 22 and 24 detailed in the ACD guide.

[TravisDean]

Prime example, I noticed this had been put on yesterday with Chris suggesting it was new, when it's basically problem 22 from the ACD guide just maybe from a move lower...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ilkley_cow_and_calf-547/coppingers_calves-670097

I'd be interested in an up to date topo too, as I also projected this back in May thinking it was an FA 
It sounds like it was the same problem https://youtube.com/shorts/Uzo-B4O9sAY?feature=share

I work in Ilkley so often go after work or at lunch if anyone ever wants a spot

I knew it rang a bell, I was there one day when you were trying it! Actually looks really good. But yeah, basically an amalgam of problems 22 and 24 detailed in the ACD guide.

Yeah I remember you doing well on your project. Good job getting it done, it looks great!
On that day I did a different problem that started from a crouch with RH on the arete, LH on a sloping crimp side pull which had some nice moves rolling over into the finish of classic calf at around 7B ish.
Great place for training on some nice eliminates!

[36chambers]

I'm going to do an updated topo for it, as it's all a bit of a mess on UKC and it doesn't seem fair to have the info only available in a very old guide that just a handful of people have access to.

Keen for this. Given the age of it, it might even be possible to scan the existing one.

I wonder if UKC would let you upload a picture/scan of the eliminate topo, since it's their site and guide anyway, that could be a good start.

If you did make an updated topo Bradders, I'm just wondering whether there'd actually be any difference compared to the original one? Apart from obviously using Font grades over Vs

[Bradders]

Some of the descriptions are pretty vague and confusing I think, so would look to improve on those.

And some of the holds described don't seem to exist anymore!

But yes it's more about trying to make it more widely available.

[moose]

Off topic, but are there any videos of the mid-height traverse (F7B+/ f8a)? There is a section of that I have never figured out [the moves to gain the big jug in the middle] and it would be an ideal project for me.

[Bradders]

Never seen a video of it Moose. The only way I've found to do it is to go up to holds 31 and 40, then back down to the juggy flake. Would love to know if there's an alternative, other than doing the crux of Pikachu Challenge and then go up. Either way seems a bit hard for 7B+.

[Will Hunt]

Not sure if anybody else gets the benefit of dunnyg's logbook comments but here they are:

BETA From LH on jug and RH on almost pleasant jug, left heel up, slap into undercut (RH), go again to good UC, turn heel to toe, stand up, ear intermediate if you want for LH, or just match. Move RH to dishy sidepull, kick RF out as far as possible, get lh to grim flake, RF high out right, RH to crimp up and right, move RF up on to jug and toe in, pop to sidepull 'jug'. Crimp this hard, left hand up to the crimp rh was just on, drop rf down to little foot hold below jug, right of sidepull jug, drop rh into jug. Match jug, rh port hole, side pull, (do stuff with feet) lh porthole side undercut, rh out to crimp short of the arete, left foot into one of the classic calf pockets, pop for jug arete, step lf through onto awks crimp, rf arete smear, match into jug, from here, it is steady, but you are pumped off your tree. Not sure what the finish should be to rock out onto slab, might actually go slightly up rather than down the groove? Could finish up gnome.

[dunnyg]

Better than a video that.

[Will Hunt]

I don't actually believe it's your beta since the text actually appears to make sense, you illiterate Faxian oaf.

[moose]

Thanks for that - I've never succeeded in finding or using those high holds (ACD 31 & 40) - my previous attempts have always revolved around trying to use that rounded pinch that's at the same height as the jug. I'll have to come with a step-ladder for a good look. 

Personally, I've always found the climbing in Ilkley to be hideous - painful holds and polished smears for feet.  I've lived there for 10 years but hardly ever climbed there - reserved for incidences of car breakdown and pandemics (if possible, I prefer 3 hours of driving to a grotty limestone venue).  But if you need extra pads and (cursory) spotting let me know - I would love to see it through less jaundiced eyes.

[User deactivated.]

Prime example, I noticed this had been put on yesterday with Chris suggesting it was new, when it's basically problem 22 from the ACD guide just maybe from a move lower...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ilkley_cow_and_calf-547/coppingers_calves-670097

Somehow they become more inspiring when named. TravisDean's video shows it's actually a quality problem, so I don't mind if this and any other good ones get named retrospectively. Of course, FA details should be respected.

I'd be interested in an up to date topo too, as I also projected this back in May thinking it was an FA 
It sounds like it was the same problem https://youtube.com/shorts/Uzo-B4O9sAY?feature=share

I work in Ilkley so often go after work or at lunch if anyone ever wants a spot

I briefly looked at this the other day and thought it could finish up Cindy Crawford or Bernie the Bolt.  Where you go right for the last move to finish on the arete, it would go slightly left and up to the juggy flakey thing, then you're into the highball problems. It doesn't appear to eliminate and would add quality to the original lines. Aiming to give it a try on Sunday!

Bradders mentioned that Bernie had already been done from a right hand sit at 7C+. If it was from the same starting point then i'd expect that grade is very conservative!

[Bradders]

Prime example, I noticed this had been put on yesterday with Chris suggesting it was new, when it's basically problem 22 from the ACD guide just maybe from a move lower...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ilkley_cow_and_calf-547/coppingers_calves-670097

Somehow they become more inspiring when named. TravisDean's video shows it's actually a quality problem, so I don't mind if this and any other good ones get named retrospectively. Of course, FA details should be respected.

I do agree with that, there's something much more interesting about it when it's not just "Problem X".

I'd be interested in an up to date topo too, as I also projected this back in May thinking it was an FA 
It sounds like it was the same problem https://youtube.com/shorts/Uzo-B4O9sAY?feature=share

I work in Ilkley so often go after work or at lunch if anyone ever wants a spot

I briefly looked at this the other day and thought it could finish up Cindy Crawford or Bernie the Bolt.  Where you go right for the last move to finish on the arete, it would go slightly left and up to the juggy flakey thing, then you're into the highball problems. It doesn't appear to eliminate and would add quality to the original lines. Aiming to give it a try on Sunday!

Bradders mentioned that Bernie had already been done from a right hand sit at 7C+. If it was from the same starting point then i'd expect that grade is very conservative!

I'm 99% sure Jon will have done the easiest non-eliminate from the two big undercuts as per Problem 16.

That's exactly what Problem 24 does anyway, and then yeah you're in the starting position for Bernie and Cindy. The Calf is basically Yorkshire's Bowderstone with lots of potential for hard eliminate/traverse style links into the highball finishes.

I'll be there this afternoon anyway if people are keen?

[haydn jones]

Think I'm gonna check out another crag today but maybe keen for Ilkley tomorrow? Would be nice to get lots of pads under Cindy. I can bring 4

[Bradders]

Ah I can't tomorrow but I think that's when Liam's going. I have 7 in the car currently if that's tempting for today 

[haydn jones]

I'm keen for today bit Charlotte wants to go elsewhere as we went on wednesday already!

[Bradders]

Very impressive second ascent (I assume) of The Golden Shot by George Newham this afternoon. He's really rather good at rock climbing.

I managed to do The Calf Traverse but couldn't figure out any way for the middle bit other than that described by dunny, I.e. go up then drop back down to the juggy flake. Never seen 7B+ like this in my opinion, 7C all day long. Maybe it's easier if you have some sort of sport fitness. Key for me was not bothering to rest on the jugs and just blasting on to the end.

[haydn jones]

Did it today! Really good problem that adds quality to BtB, was going to try this start into Cindy but after doing the top out from the stand I felt too sick at the thought of doing the top again! 

[Bradders]

Awesome, glad it's getting good reviews.

I'm wondering if I was a bit ambitious with the grade. I initially thought it was 7B into 7C with no rest, which using the grade calculation would put it at (8+9+4)/2=10.5 or V10 / V11 and right on the grade boundary. And then rounded up due to the sustained nature and crux at the top.

But maybe it's more like 7A+ into 7B+ so actually 7C+?

I dunno. I certainly had an experience on it akin to other 8As I've done but maybe that's because it's not my best style especially at the top. I'm definitely worrying about it too much anyway, the quality is the most important thing.

[haydn jones]

Felt similar to other 7C highballs I've done like Cornelius. Grade break down for me was 7A/+ into 7B.

[Bradders]

Blimey, that hurts a bit!

Guess we'll see what others think. It was harder for me than Frank or Sweet Dreams Sit anyway, took me literally 5x more sessions than both of those! And it adds quite a bit to BtB which itself is 7B+/7C depending on who you ask...so...