UKBouldering.com

[Yorkshire] [Ilkley] [The Calf] Potential New Link-Up (Read 15118 times)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
#thoughts&prayers4bradderz

tim palmer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 739
  • Karma: +34/-0
Felt similar to other 7C highballs I've done like Cornelius. Grade break down for me was 7A/+ into 7B.

Who let this person into wharfedale?

Blimey, that hurts a bit!

Guess we'll see what others think. It was harder for me than Frank or Sweet Dreams Sit anyway, took me literally 5x more sessions than both of those! And it adds quite a bit to BtB which itself is 7B+/7C depending on who you ask...so...  :-\

If anyone has any interest in links at Ilkley I did sweet dreams to the break after the crux,  then went left into the top of crimson tear. makes for a more sustained bit climbing,  maybe still not 8a though

Footwork

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 634
  • Karma: +63/-0
  • Living With Wads
    • Living With Wads
It was harder for me than Frank or Sweet Dreams Sit anyway, took me literally 5x more sessions than both of those! And it adds quite a bit to BtB which itself is 7B+/7C depending on who you ask...so...  :-\

I hope you're not taking 8A for Frank  :ohmy:

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2980
  • Karma: +166/-4

Who let this person into wharfedale?


 :lol:

George's ukc note suggests he lanked the bottom bit and I think Haydn is fairly tall as well? Might explain the disparity.

Off topic but why is Frank so overgraded by common consensus (haven't done it so hearsay)? Did people find a new sequence or something?

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1697
  • Karma: +155/-4
If anyone has any interest in links at Ilkley I did sweet dreams to the break after the crux,  then went left into the top of crimson tear. makes for a more sustained bit climbing,  maybe still not 8a though

Did you have a look at trying to join Crimson Tear as soon as possible from Sweet Dreams? I remember thinking it looked like it would be a hard bit of climbing, but unfortunately very eliminate.

tim palmer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 739
  • Karma: +34/-0
Off topic but why is Frank so overgraded by common consensus (haven't done it so hearsay)? Did people find a new sequence or something?

I think initially people didn't put their heel on the big right hand ramp, they do now so it is about 7c ish


Did you have a look at trying to join Crimson Tear as soon as possible from Sweet Dreams? I remember thinking it looked like it would be a hard bit of climbing, but unfortunately very eliminate.

I think it could be climbed in a non eliminate way but would be full on grim,  very hard and involve a dyno

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8091
  • Karma: +645/-118
    • Unknown Stones
George's ukc note suggests he lanked the bottom bit and I think Haydn is fairly tall as well? Might explain the disparity.

Pity poor Bradders, notable short-arse that he is!
/s


I think it could be climbed in a non eliminate way but would be full on grim,  very hard and involve a dyno

Dynoing off the ground to the Crimson Tear pocket is probably my worst rock climbing experience. Fuck doing it off anything else! The top move of that problem is nice but surely can't add any difficulty to Sweet Dreams Sit, unless traversing over to it is difficult?

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
Off topic but why is Frank so overgraded by common consensus (haven't done it so hearsay)? Did people find a new sequence or something?

It's very span dependent. If you have enough reach you can pull on and go straight to the slot with your right hand, whereas if you can't reach you have to do what looks like a pretty nails couple of moves to shift your left hand along the undercut rail so you can then reach the slot. Not really one of those you can assign a single grade to.

Still a hard couple of moves if you can make the reach but not 8A.

George's ukc note suggests he lanked the bottom bit and I think Haydn is fairly tall as well? Might explain the disparity.

Pity poor Bradders, notable short-arse that he is!
/s

Haha, I'm just long limbed. I've certainly nothing on George, even Liam couldn't make the reach skipping the undercut moves and he has a good few inches in height on me!

Pope B

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 36
  • Karma: +8/-0

Who let this person into wharfedale?


 :lol:

George's ukc note suggests he lanked the bottom bit and I think Haydn is fairly tall as well? Might explain the disparity.


Haydn used the same beta as Nick I believe, no lanking required

tim palmer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 739
  • Karma: +34/-0
Dynoing off the ground to the Crimson Tear pocket is probably my worst rock climbing experience. Fuck doing it off anything else! The top move of that problem is nice but surely can't add any difficulty to Sweet Dreams Sit, unless traversing over to it is difficult?

Um it is a bit pumpy, makes it a bit trickier I think.   I don't think it adds loads but maybe 7a+ or so after sweet dreams (7c ha ha?)

Feel free to go and do it and give some feedback Will, I did it early summer so it isn't particularly hard

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8091
  • Karma: +645/-118
    • Unknown Stones
Dynoing off the ground to the Crimson Tear pocket is probably my worst rock climbing experience. Fuck doing it off anything else! The top move of that problem is nice but surely can't add any difficulty to Sweet Dreams Sit, unless traversing over to it is difficult?

Um it is a bit pumpy, makes it a bit trickier I think.   I don't think it adds loads but maybe 7a+ or so after sweet dreams (7c ha ha?)

Feel free to go and do it and give some feedback Will, I did it early summer so it isn't particularly hard

That would require me to do Sweet Dreams Sit, which I have not succeeded in pulling off the ground on  :lol:

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1053
  • Karma: +96/-2
In the subject of Ilkley things. Where the hell does the Pikachu challenge go. I did the left to right trav yesterday but ended up going high via the same sequence as on the golden shot and then reversing BtB

Traversing lower looks insanely hard

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8091
  • Karma: +645/-118
    • Unknown Stones
In the subject of Ilkley things. Where the hell does the Pikachu challenge go. I did the left to right trav yesterday but ended up going high via the same sequence as on the golden shot and then reversing BtB

Traversing lower looks insanely hard

Pikachu Challenge is at 15:45 here:

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1531
  • Karma: +91/-7
It's on the Cameron duff, and Crux for me is pretty soon after the jugs, moving into and off a shit left hand pinch. Doesn't look miles easier after though to be fair.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
Yeah that pinch is absolutely heinous. Gaz Parry flashing it is so impressive knowing the moves. Although the way he takes the hold makes me wonder whether it might have broken, it just looks so much better than it is now!

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2703
  • Karma: +174/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
Does GP do it right in the vid? I remember there being some grumbling at the time of the vid release that he goes to high in the last section or something.

This is the beat.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
I thought the super low version was Dave Buchanan's Greasy Leopard. Can't see what the difference would be between the two of Pikachu went any lower!

honroid

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 134
  • Karma: +0/-0
Good effort on your addition Bradders. Looks very cool in the video there. Quality moves. I've not done anything on that face yet.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
Cheers! Well worth a visit.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal