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Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022 (Read 2484 times)

Duncan Disorderly

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Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 02, 2022, 10:04:47 pm
SSL Reissue Club

Sorry for the delay getting this back up. All good now...

M: Summertime - 3 Star routes up to F6c, Ace!
T: Arginonta Valley - Katie day, did a F5c in trainers.
W: Griffig - F6b to warmup, F7b - dropped crux and dogged the rest. F7c (actually more like F7a+)... Slipped off good pinch and GF mashed her foot on the wall - help her hobble off the crag... Boo!!
T: Rest
F: Arginonta - Mileage day, 3 star F6b and easy routes to see how Katie's foot is - All good!
S: Summertime - 3 star F6a+ - F6c onsighting magic!
S: Poets - Warmup and stick clips in adjacent F7a+ on the way down - Rinse it! Ace...

All going in the right direction... Hopefully UKB is back as it should be, any probs let me know as resting tomorrow.....

Duma

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#1 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 02, 2022, 11:07:51 pm
M - slept badly previous night. 12 hr shift. Elbow worse if anything, still can't fully straighten or bend it, and weird  nervy pins and needles ish feeling. Clicked a few times today. Bath in eve to try and relax it and shoulder.
T - 12 hr shift. Elbow still clicking and can't completely straighten it.
W - run, 4.5k, bit quicker than half Kipchoge's pace this time. Booked in with physio, earliest they had was Monday.
T -
F - 12hr night shift
S - 12hr night shift
S - 12hr night shift

70 kg
2022 plank total 264 min

No improvement, physio tomorrow.

Wellsy

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#2 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 02, 2022, 11:08:51 pm
Monday - went to Anston. Did a couple of easier problems and planned to finish off Dark Lady properly but got distracted by a really cool and quite hard 7A called The Corner. Shit name, banging problem. Just needs properly linking together, first move crux, really cool though.

Tuesday - Works for an evening session.

Wednesday - had a spontaneous afternoon off so went to Burbage South for a bit of pottering. Which I did before trying Violence 7A+. Definitely need to be fresh but even tired and achey I almost held the first move a couple of times! Keen to go back. Works in the evening, found some bizarre strength and actually did some hard stuff

Thursday - rested

Friday - board session. Felt amazing, polished off 2 out of 3 of three long running projects, one of which I'm convinced is 7A+. Last one remains but is much closer. Nice.

Saturday - Bell Hagg for pottering. Did a load of easy stuff and then amused myself with increasingly horrible crimpy eliminates as I am told is appropriate there.

Sunday - rested. Happy days.

Feeling strong at the moment. Probably stronger than I've ever been? Definitely keen to get back on the training, and to grow out my pyramid with some more 7As and 7A+s in the next few months.

duncan

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#3 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 03, 2022, 09:31:08 am
This week’s 'good effort' goes to T_B for getting round the London Marathon.

M  - 10km walk
T - Wesway routes: a 4+ and 5+. Generally weak and rubbish. Also a 10km walk.
W - 10km walk
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, three finger crimp mainly, up to 32kg good hand, 27kg not so good hand.
F - Westway bouldering: 10 problems to 'V1'. Not quite as clunky as Monday.
S - 10km walk
S - Fingerboard pick-ups: 15mm edge, three finger crimp mainly, up to 32kg good hand, 27kg not so good hand. 8km walk.

Wrist is very gradually tolerating more. It’s very slow to improve which seems to be the case with this kind of thing. Ideally I’d be out doing therapeutic Easy Trad.TM but it now looks like I’ll be stuck in London for October, so will continue with more of the same.

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 03, 2022, 09:42:08 am
M - not much still feel burst after weekend
T - some light kettlebells
W - easy leg stretch 6km
T - some kettlebells
F - nothing
S - wall session. still feeling knackered. finished with foot on campussing. sat through watching Aberdeen game, son loved it.
S - felt utterly burst again. mowed lawn, hopefully last of the year.

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 03, 2022, 10:15:18 am
Tu - Shunted trad proj. Crucial pebble broke. Trad proj is dead. Had a minute's silence then went to the Hub to join a friend's Moon Board session. Good fun. Thin skin from slapping on grit and felt quite weak but keen for more of this.

Sa - Couldn't get an afternoon partner for Malham; waited around for a friend to visit but traffic waylaid him; had an hour's board session which was a rude awakening to how weak and unused to pulling hard I am. Failed to repeat a 6A which I looked quite floaty on in Spring. A long road lies ahead.

Su - A walk in the Dales with the kids. 4 miles up and downhill and didn't have to shoulder-carry the two year old. My neck and shoulders live to see another day.

Liamhutch89

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#6 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 03, 2022, 10:59:24 am
Didn't get around to posting last week but I had a session on the project and generally did low volume high intensity training as part of this 'peak phase'.

M - 5 attempts on the proj separated by 20 mins rest. Dropped the last hard move 3 times.

T - fingerboard pickups, 8x1 one arm pullups, ring I's, Y's, T's

T - finally finished off the project 2nd go of the day. executed all the moves to near perfection and it still felt hard on the successful go. Hardest thing I've done that's not on my board. (volume warning for the end - YYFY  ;D)



F - core circuit, 4x6 standing military press

S - first time climbing on the back of the calf. Did all the moves on Bernie the bolt from a sit start, using a ladder to pull on for the top half. Had a couple goes from the bottom before it got dark but powered out going for the shoulder move. Really keen for more calf sessions and potentially a big link up from three more reps into cindy crawford.

Wellsy

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#7 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 03, 2022, 11:10:37 am
Sick effort! That looks nails, well done

Aussiegav

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#8 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 03, 2022, 12:46:52 pm
Still a difficult week with family illness & new job. But not as emotionally draining. Have my Dad over from Aust which is good, inspite of circumstances.

Did manage two good sessions at the Depot though. Just had to drop the conditioning work due to fitting in the above.

Monday -
Rest day

Tuesday
Went to the Depot after work do the Red Circuit
Did around 8 warm ups blues & blacks. Then  went through the Red circuit. 2min rests between tries. Two attempts max per problem. Avoiding the reds I’d done previously.   Tried 18 problems on the circuit, did 13 of them, 10 were flashed.
Finished with pull ups on the minute and core.

Wednesday -
Picked up Dad from Manchester  airport

Thursday -
Day at the hospice in London. Hideous drive home. Took ages.

Friday -
Went to the movies for some positive family time.

Saturday -
V5-7 Project Session purples at the Depot
Five attempts maximum per problem.
1st problem 3rd try
2nd problem 5 tries. Problem I tried last week. Still can’t do cross over move, can’t stick the hold.
3rd problem flashed
4th problem. Fell on the last hold on 4th & 5th try, powered out.

Sunday.
Peloton & stretching.

Wellsy

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#9 Re: Power Club 664 26th Sept - 02 Oct 2022
October 03, 2022, 12:49:30 pm
What Depot do you go to gav?

Also sorry about your continuing difficult family situation. Sounds really tough :(

Aussiegav

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What Depot do you go to gav?


Sheffield. I go on Tuesday evenings & Saturdays.
Heading in late tonight instead of tomorrow.

Wellsy

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I'm away this week but If you fancy company at some point I'd be happy to join :)

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - front levers 1'. One arm lock offs. Goblet squat.
Tue - rest. 67 days on. Slack.
Wed - Lattice edge, bar work.
Thu - board climbing, one foot bouldering +2 kg. First two goes were memorable.
Fri - barbell good mornings, bentover rows, high pulls x5, x11.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - AM ab wheel, thruster, high pulls.




Coops_13

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M: Core. G1. Max hangs 85% 7s 20mm +37.5lb *6. Limit boulders on Kilter 45deg. 2 V7, 2 V8 iincluding a 7B+ that I sent third session. Two V7 boulders to finish

T: Lower body stretching. Core. 100 press-ups, shoulder-press.

W: Stone Summit Atlanta. Quick session with some bodyweight repeaters and power endurance repeaters. Did five boulders V5 - 7.

S: Wild Basin. Went to try The Finch V9. Has an awkward lie-down start that I couldn't do. Ended up doing a more direct sit start into the crux which felt like hard V8. Went to Thug Rood but was pretty tired - managed an eliminate version of Dharma Bums, around V6


S: 100 press-ups. Light core

shark

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11.6-7 Average 160.8 up 0.5lbs

M.AM Home warm up. Tor with Graham. Steve tagged along. Weather alternately raining and sunny. First tie in dogged to headwall. Had a look at the tensiony foot move where I came unstuck on Friday and sorted out an extra foot move that seemed to solve it. Down to the Prow hole and linked slickly to move 9 but over reached! to the pinch/sidehold and fumbled it. Second tie in ended up reworking the Push Up crux. Amazing how much you can pull on a crooked thumb on a tiny hold. Third tie in sun came out as I reached the push up crux but managed to climb thru it but lost my feet just above and grabbed the draw. Dogged up to Prow shake and linked from there to Crucifixion crux. Crux in two sections to the top.

W

T

F Home warm up car condensed. Foggy in places driving over. High humidity forecast with heavy rain forecast from noon. Tor with Nick. 9degrees. Conditions surprisingly ok. Similar performance to Monday. Climbing slickly. First tie on headwall linked hole to falling off left foot stab after move 9 (redpoint crux for me?). Fluffed a foot move at end of the crux on Push-up then dogged to top as Monday.

S.

S.

That’s it with Anger Management for the year as off to the States for 4 weeks tomorrow. No tangible progress other than feeling generally stronger on it. Spending a week in Chicago with Sonia whilst she does the marathon then down to Red River Gorge with Eddie. No agenda or goals for the trip. Hopefully have more endurance than when I last went 3 years ago.

remus

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T - finally finished off the project 2nd go of the day. executed all the moves to near perfection and it still felt hard on the successful go. Hardest thing I've done that's not on my board. (volume warning for the end - YYFY  ;D)

Nice one Liam!

SA Chris

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Spending a week in Chicago with Sonia whilst she does the marathon

Pizza carb loading! Enjoy and wish her luck. My other half loved the city and the race.

shark

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Have done Chris - thanks

 

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