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When did Jerry do The Ace? (Read 3714 times)

remus

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When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 22, 2022, 10:10:24 pm
Im trying to track down when Jerry did The Ace. In this interview it mentions 2002 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/jerry-moffatt-interview.html but then there's a UKC piece (purportedly from December 2001) talking about Malc repeating it https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119 so they can't both be right.

Peak bouldering doesn't have a date and neither does the stanage definitive.

Kingy

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#1 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 22, 2022, 10:18:05 pm
I think the Planet Mountain date is erroneous. The UKC article is dated, I don't see how that could be wrong as its the original article from 2001.

Teaboy

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#2 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 22, 2022, 10:34:14 pm
The UKC article doesnít say he did the Ace but that he nearly did it. Itís not clear in the report but Simon Panton confirms it in the thread

Kingy

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#3 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 22, 2022, 10:36:31 pm
I think the UKC article confirms that Malc got close to repeating the Ace in Dec 2001. Therefore Jerry must have done the FA  either earlier that winter or the winter before.

shark

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#4 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 22, 2022, 11:17:36 pm
Climber (probably Keith Sharples) says 2001 here: https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

36chambers

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#5 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 22, 2022, 11:25:41 pm
2000 according to the significant ascents and dates in Revelations :smartass:

remus

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#6 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 23, 2022, 07:59:41 am
2000 according to the significant ascents and dates in Revelations :smartass:

Of the sources available Revelations seems most likely to be correct, though wouldn't put a little looseness of memory past Jerry!

Thanks for the correction on Malc's ascent too, misread the UKC article.

Nutty

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#7 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 23, 2022, 09:26:23 am
Peak Rock says 2001.

remus

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#8 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 23, 2022, 05:35:02 pm
Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)

I've had a trawl through the UKC news archives and there's no mention of it. There is a bit of a sparsity of items in march and april though so I wonder whether whoever did the news at the time was on holiday? Hard to imagine Jerry doing a new 8B in the middle of plantation would go unreported otherwise.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2022, 05:46:24 pm by remus »

cheque

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#9 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 23, 2022, 05:55:41 pm
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. Itíll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.

SA Chris

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#10 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 23, 2022, 08:01:31 pm
Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)

Wouldn't be the only topo.

Steve Crowe

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#11 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 23, 2022, 09:51:42 pm
OTE 114 February 2002 states Malcolm will have climbed The Ace by the time you read this report.

Stabbsy

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#12 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 24, 2022, 10:24:45 am
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. Itíll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.

remus

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#13 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 24, 2022, 11:00:14 am
 8) strong work!

It seems feasible he could have done it in December 2000, so maybe the date in revelations could be correct? Shawn Raboutou style.

Bradders

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#14 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 24, 2022, 11:11:54 am
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. Itíll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.

Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.

Kingy

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#15 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 24, 2022, 06:08:13 pm
Jerry does the Ace in Stick It which came out in 2001. I don't know whether that was the actual ascent though or just a reenactment.

Jack Andrew

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#16 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 25, 2022, 10:28:36 am
Iím sure Iím revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Donít know the date though

36chambers

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#17 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 25, 2022, 03:39:40 pm
Iím sure Iím revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Donít know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??

grimer

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#18 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 26, 2022, 08:33:49 am
I always trust other sources over my own.

Stabbsy

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#19 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 26, 2022, 01:22:11 pm
Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.

There's limited info, but here you go.

OTE :-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1dykir55wmt3gnt/IMG_1879.HEIC?dl=0

Si Panton's Bouldering Scene (one of the few good bits of Climber back then) :-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gebjryx75unokr6/IMG_1880.HEIC?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/si6o6zeoxhe47kp/IMG_1881.HEIC?dl=0

remus

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#20 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 26, 2022, 02:39:42 pm
Thanks for digging those out  :bow:

andy_e

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#21 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 26, 2022, 03:03:01 pm
I really miss that style of news reports  :'(

Stu Littlefair

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#22 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 27, 2022, 07:54:18 am
Iím sure Iím revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Donít know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??

Yeah, I dunno. Iím too old to remember that far back now

James Malloch

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#23 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 27, 2022, 09:14:38 am
Iím sure Iím revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Donít know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??

Yeah, I dunno. Iím too old to remember that far back now

The drop box link from Stabsy (Si Pantonís one) says that Ben Moon had a different sequence - two days later it went down.

Wellsy

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#24 Re: When did Jerry do The Ace?
September 27, 2022, 09:25:31 am
 Has anyone ever seen Stu and Ben in the same room?  :-\

 

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