[sto]

Ok maybe this is a stupid prblem to ask for beta on because it's kind of all right there in front of your face, but... get lip, LF on good hold under roof, throw LH to big sloper on left, swap feet under roof, throw RH to right sloper, left heel up, slap RH up to top sloper, feel very spread out, fall off. Repeat until trashed. Any suggestions?

[dave]

so you're on the jug on the lip. put foot wherever on the back wall under roof, go big left for left sloper, then swing out(cutloose?) and get left foot in heel-toe on the lip outleft, works best more-or less where that little vertical seam comes down. then you can sort of slump your weight on your left hand and left foot (twisting it), and bring right hand up to match. then hold and hope and go up left again to the next level (its better over right, then match again, all with left foot firmly in the heel-toe. then pull up and get either right knee or foot on to go up to the "jug" with right hand.

anyone who tells you to use right heel-toe or anythig like that is a bollock-jockey. I worked that sequence back when it was my limit, had no armstrength, was crap on slopers, and shite at this kinda thing and i can say its deffinetley the easiest sequence cos it got me up it and no other one would. its the only way.

for those about to point out i've still got no armstrength and am crap on slopers, thats true, and that sequence still gets me up it. :wink:

[Scouse D]

Once i get the lip I swing a L foot in to the same heel toe that dave is on about. This allows you to lock to the first LH sloper and match with little effort. Then it's as Dave says, made easier by shuffling L heel-toe along so it's more directly below you.
Dunno if this is an easier sequence but if neither of those bad boy's works I'll eat my hat.

[cofe]

I'll eat my hat.

looks like a big hat. i wouldn't have any bread or potatoes with it.

[sto]

Now that's beta! I knew I'd get the straight dope here. I think my left foot is too far left so I can't get a decent heel-toe in. Can't wait to try it. Thanks!

[account_inactive]

Heels always seem to work better when you drop the other leg.  It seems to help cam your heel into place

[Jim]

Sorry but the best move on this problem is going from the lip to the first sloper static using the sloper halfway up the bulge as in :

can't remember which arm I lead with for the next bit but I defo don't use any heels or heel-toes, just put your left foot on the break, experiment with the best position for you and go with which ever arm feels best.
Quality problem

[dave]

sorry boss but thats rubbish beta! unspeakably bad beta in fact!!!!!!

 :saythat:

[Jim]

Whatever..... and I'm sure I get the match on the 1st bulge with feet on the back.
Anyone done it footless? recon that'd be...er.....fun?

[Nigel]

With proper use of heel-toes you can climb every problem here, usually by locking straight from the shelf to the highest slopers. Jim, what the hell is that beta, looks about V20!  

[ned]

i did fom hanging the jug/break footless (but i didn't top out, i value my nipples!) while waiting fo my mate to do it. verdict....not woth it.

[a dense loner]

jim, first off putting pics of yourself on the interweb saying look at me is not cricket, n second r u on drugs? :wink:  you don't use that beta at all. you get a left heel/toe in to match
no wonder your fingers look like your avatar every day!

[Jim]

well maybe my memory i a little fuzzy as I've not been up there for a while but I still stick by my method of doing the first move as been miles better than slapping to the break even if my beta for the rest of the problem is wack.
Dense is this better for you
or  

[a dense loner]

now we're talkin. proper athletes

[clm]

I remember seeing the enigma go jug onlip, up to sloper, match, then put both heels out on the lip of the roof - like twin heel hooks in a splits position :shock: and crank on to victory.  imitation was fruitless.

[Jim]

I believe short people do it with knee's on the break as well, or if your really flexible you can get your left foot in the break directly beneath you and just sit on it

[Jim]

right then did this today again. the beta I mentioned before works yo. get to 1st break with left hand via RH on slopey hold halfway up with footlock. match 1st break with feet still on the back. left foot (ball of ; no heel-toes) in break, slap RH up first to 2nd break, adjust LF a bit closer to you, come over and match 2nd break with LH right next to RH (not further left which is shit and were most people go to) pull up a bit, get right knee round the roof (can stick it in the break to make it a bit easier) then either slap the good flatty or mantle the 2nd break. I thank you
Nigel -  I'll have that V20 tick, cheers
Oh yeah and Bubba was there to prove it

[Bubba]

Damn straight - the beta works....and it wasn't exactly ideal Beachball conditions either.