[Carnage]

What is the season like between October and February. I guess that's summer down under, so what would it be like to come on a climbing trip to NZ/OZ for those months? 

Not the best time to come to Oz - 3 of the months you're talking about are in the height of summer and you'll die in the heat. Most people hit the beach/surf or do routes where some shade can be found.

Ideal time to come over is between now and the end of September for NSW and for Victoria (Gramps/Araps) - Their winter is very much like a British winter but with more better days. A good time for that area can be around Easter tho.

Look me up if you're heading over. I point you in the direction of those nice, soft Aussie 11's! 

[unclesomebody]

Look me up if you're heading over. I point you in the direction of those nice, soft Aussie 11's! 

From what i've heard I should be looking for those soft 13's since I can just about climb 7C over here... 
 more seriously, i've emailed you for more info!

[Carnage]

Ha HA!! 

Theres a few 13's that'll test you, like the unrepeated 'Genesis' at Crumbly or the sitter to Forced Entry.

Anyway, I've replied to your mail.

Cheers.

[BenF]

Thanks Ben. What kind of temps are you talking about in the mornings and evenings? I'm going with my girlfriend so she can climb during the day quite happily but I won't be so keen to wreck my skin.  I'm really keen to see castle hill, flock hill, quantum field etc.

Well, it can be pretty cool in the mornings.  I've got out to the Hill before nine in summer and it's been pretty perfect (even a light frost if you're dead early) , however it soon gets back up into the twenties (degrees C) and it all gets a bit hard.  Even through the winter I climbed most days in just a t-shirt and thin fleece between problems.  Other days I climbed with a foot of snow on the ground... 

In summer up at Flock it sometimes stays better thanks to the breeze, then again it can be unbearable if the wind fucks off.  You'll definitely get plenty done, particularly if you get a rare overcast, breezy day.  Problem is that the weather can be too good, but if you're a first time visitor I wouldn't worry about it too much.  Look for shady problems, go high up, climb early and late etc and you'll have a great time.  Equally so, a long day at the Hill, climbing as many problems as you can is unrivaled for entertainment.  It's easy to climb over a hundred problems in a few hours there.  The ultimate circuit venue!

[a dense loner]

forced entry will be right up uncles street

[unclesomebody]

   ha ha ha ha ha ha...  although dense, why do you keep coming back for more?   

[Jim]

probably cos he wants you in him 

[Control freak]

Look me up if you're heading over. I point you in the direction of those nice, soft Aussie 11's! 

From what i've heard I should be looking for those soft 13's since I can just about climb 7C over here... 
 more seriously, i've emailed you for more info!

Youll be lucky - they might go in the perfect baltic days of sheffield for it never fucking gets cold here. It was the first day of winter yesterday and it was pushing 20 degrees!

[Carnage]

Oh stop whinging. It was 9 degrees yesterday when I got up. What more do you want?

[Red Dwarf]

Anyone wanting to check the weather...here's what the weatherman says......   

http://www.metservice.co.nz/default/index.php?pkey=190715&class=menu

[cofe]

will castle hill be in nick in august? or snowy?

[G.K]

Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?

Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?

At Quantum Field:The right side of The Cauldron, v4, Top Heavy, v3. Spantastic v3 Just over the fence at Spittle Hill,  BEAUTIFUL EDGES v4, Fetish v4, Beatnik, v3 Tuppimaster standing start v3, Basilisk v4

[G.K]

will castle hill be in nick in august? or snowy?

The weather starts coming right from August but is not consistant.

[BenF]

I'd say that the Hill will be in good condition (allowing for the odd snowy period) from early June through to October.  Gets a bit warm after October.  When I lived out there I had no trouble climbing at the Hill a couple of times a week right through winter.  Even with snow on the ground you can usually climb and the basin topography means that its usually dry there even if its raining/snowing as you come over Porter Pass.  So don't be put off by bad weather in Chch or on the Pass.

In fact, some of the best days up there where days when you had to wade through snow to get to Spittle or Quantum Field, but then found excellent conditions and frequently areas clear of snow once you got onto north facing slopes.

[SA Chris]

Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?

Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?

At Quantum Field:The right side of The Cauldron, v4, Top Heavy, v3. Spantastic v3 Just over the fence at Spittle Hill,  BEAUTIFUL EDGES v4, Fetish v4, Beatnik, v3 Tuppimaster standing start v3, Basilisk v4

Cheers for the heads up, but it's a year ago that I was there. Would love to get back, but other plans this year.

[G.K]

Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?

Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?

At Quantum Field:The right side of The Cauldron, v4, Top Heavy, v3. Spantastic v3 Just over the fence at Spittle Hill,  BEAUTIFUL EDGES v4, Fetish v4, Beatnik, v3 Tuppimaster standing start v3, Basilisk v4

Cheers for the heads up, but it's a year ago that I was there. Would love to get back, but other plans this year.

I noticed the date after I posted Doh! Still, the names are there now for anyone else who is thinking of coming out here. I'm happy to elaborate if need be.

[G.K]

I'd say that the Hill will be in good condition (allowing for the odd snowy period) from early June through to October.  Gets a bit warm after October.  When I lived out there I had no trouble climbing at the Hill a couple of times a week right through winter.  Even with snow on the ground you can usually climb and the basin topography means that its usually dry there even if its raining/snowing as you come over Porter Pass.  So don't be put off by bad weather in Chch or on the Pass.

In fact, some of the best days up there where days when you had to wade through snow to get to Spittle or Quantum Field, but then found excellent conditions and frequently areas clear of snow once you got onto north facing slopes.

While it is possible to climb year round at Castle Hill, June is not the time you want to travel half way around the world to be there. The best time to climb is Spring . The days are getting longer and warmer but still chilly enough for good friction. spring is also between the winter ski season and the summer tourist season so there should be cheaper airfairs to be had as well as accommodation and car rental, etc.

[Will Hunt]

Off out there at the end of this week. Not a climbing trip, but I am trying to wangle some time at Castle Hill on the last day before we finish in Christchurch.

If I go, I will probably be limited to doing whatever there are other people doing as some of it looks high and not really what you want to be doing without pads or guidebook (day rental of pad and guidebook from somewhere nearby?). Word on the street is that Castle Hill is for looking around at the pretty rocks and Flock Hill over the road is where to go for climbing. Is this true?

[Plattsy]

Pads and guide can be rented in Christchurch, or could in 2011 (links on the wiki). There were pads available to rent closer to Castle Hill but you'd have to hunt the net to find out where (a hostel and a cafe apparently).

[Pitcairn]

Off out there at the end of this week. Not a climbing trip, but I am trying to wangle some time at Castle Hill on the last day before we finish in Christchurch.

If I go, I will probably be limited to doing whatever there are other people doing as some of it looks high and not really what you want to be doing without pads or guidebook (day rental of pad and guidebook from somewhere nearby?). Word on the street is that Castle Hill is for looking around at the pretty rocks and Flock Hill over the road is where to go for climbing. Is this true?

You should definitely try to climb if you can.  The climbing in quantum field is fantastic - maybe not as good as flock hill, and maybe a bit polished, but there are loads of brilliant problems there of all sizes and styles.  I have climbed there a lot by myself.  Better to have atleast one pad but there are plenty of problems you can climb without pads.  You can rent pads from the cafe in Springfield (20 mins towards christchurch).  There is also some fun bouldering near Queenstown and Wanaka if you have a few hours.  Have fun!

[jern]

If you are at Castle Hill for a day then you ideally need a local to give the tour if you want to make anything of the day. If you can scrounge a guidebook then that will help a lot - the new is very good at guiding you round a complex area.

You could have a good day without a pad as it's not all highball death and the landings are pretty good as a rule. That said you can hire mats at Bivouac (outdoor shop) in Christchurch or at the petrol station in Springfield.

The word on the street is wrong, between Spittle Hill, the Quantum Field and Wuthering Heights there is shitloads of good stuff to do. Yes, Flock Hill is amazing but it's also closed for lambing until  Xmas day.

Have a look at this:
http://castlehillbasin.co.nz


If you need any more info then pm me, I may even be able act as tour guide if you're wealthy enough!

[georgenorth]

Pads can currently be rented at the cafe in Springfield, which is about half way between ChCh and Castle Hill (time wise). They also rent them out at the Youth Hostel (where I am at the moment as it happens). Not everything is highball, and there's more than enough to keep you entertained for a day or two if you don't have a pad or spotter.

The guide to Spittle Hill is currently available at quality retailers in the UK: http://www.rockrun.com/the-definitive-spittle-hill-climbing-guide?ref=1
The grades and starring are pretty bollocks but it does at least give you a rough idea where stuff is. Spittle Hill is part of Castle Hill, and unlike Flock Hill doesn't have any access problems. The Quantum Field which is the most obvious part of Castle Hill is pretty bobbins for climbing IMO. The rocks are impressive though!

As a final word of warning the weather is very unprecictable. It can go from incredibly hot with not a cloud in the sky in the sky to torrential rain in about 30 seconds! The rock does dry very quickly though.

[jern]

Last time I saw a pad from the Springfield cafe it looked knackered, the petrol stations ones were good a couple of years ago when I last rented them. If you're in Christchurch you could borrow my pads and a guidebook

[georgenorth]

Last time I saw a pad from the Springfield cafe it looked knackered, the petrol stations ones were good a couple of years ago when I last rented them. If you're in Christchurch you could borrow my pads and a guidebook

Good knowledge! I haven't seen any pads from the cafe (I brought my own). The ones here at the YH are in excellent nick though.

I was probably being a bit harsh on Quantum Field. I'm sure there's loads of good stuff, but for an outsider the style did seem a bit 'extreme'.

[SA Chris]

I used the mattress from our camper van wrapped in a tarp for a pad, not the best but better than nowt. If you only have limited time just wander the rocks and have a go at whatever looks fun / safe enough. Saying that, Run and Jump slab is fun and worth finding. No pad needed, the crux is the first move, then slab padding where you will slither rather than fall



(Using a pad is cheating unless you are short)

There is a bit of polish in places, but it's not much compared to say Avon Gorge.