[runt]

Off on the NZ road trip at the end of the month, the powerband site has been spot on for topos and that, but does anyone have any must do (or try pathetically at) problems? upto v6/7 ish.

While I'm at it fiji looks like it's got some stuff too, anybody been chalking up bits of the beach?

Ta very much, and pass the DVT socks
Andy

[Bonjoy]

Check the Castle Hill thread on page 2 of this forum section. I think I listed a few must do's  on there. Ocean, Pheonix and Better than Jesus are all essential at V6/7.

[fatboySlimfast]

Sorry didnt get back to yah Runt but heres some shizzle bout N.Z.
In my opinion the North island was shit for bouldering and wished we had gone strait down south, have to say Frogatt was ok for routes but Ive done better in this country sooooo......
to get to the south island we got a ferry(we had a van!) wich was HUGELY expensive! There is some sport climbing in the north end of the south island which is ok if your there but very chee dale so again.........
There is some bouldering on the way to milford sound on granite BUT only climable at certain times of year cos of rain and sand flies at other times!(youll know wat i mean when u get there) but does look good. Jardines outside of Queenstown is good with more stuff being developed, kind of schist/cromlech type rock and i have to say some good sport climbing bit further away near wanaka(much nicer place to hang out than Queenstown!!!!!)
lots been written bout Castle Hill so wont go into it

We went to Fiji but unless youve lived in that heat for years you aint going bouldering, its frigging hot! Saying that i actually went deep water soloing inside a limestone sea cavern which was top! my advice is to get out to the islands to experience some mad tropical isolation, no roads/electricity/phones/cars/noise etc. We went diving down south way on the Astrolab reef which was frigging amazing. if your on the more popular araeas be wary cos theve been stripped bare and theres nothing to see!!

[hongkongstuey]

whilst New Zealand is in the limelight - whats peoples views on it as a place to live (from a climbers view point)?

Is Christchurch the only place worth bothering with??

Is there any decent climbing near Auckland??

thoroughly fed up with my job in HK and have floated my CV down to about 3 companies in NZ so far this week - just wanna know which of their offices would be worth considering should anything ever come of it (personally i'd rather move to Vancouver but the misses has her heart set on NZ for some reason)

[fatboySlimfast]

There is climbing near Auckland but have to say its pretty shit!
Christchurch would be ok.....it is a bit of a haul to other areas but still drivable to castle hill for day. There is some local stuff but again bit crap.
Some of the big alpine rock routes looked stunning...
Dont forget the climate in N.Z is very similar to Britain=rain

[runt]

Thanks for all that, I'll check some of those spots/problems out. I won't get my hopes up for the north island though!

[AndyR]

thoroughly fed up with my job in HK and have floated my CV down to about 3 companies in NZ so far this week - just wanna know which of their offices would be worth considering should anything ever come of it (personally i'd rather move to Vancouver but the misses has her heart set on NZ for some reason)

Jesus, who wears the trousers chez Millis? Ah right yes, NZ it is then :wink:

Personally, I would love to live in Wanaka (beautiful, slightly leftfield small town in amongst amazing mountains), but can't imagine they're gagging for geotechnical engineers.....

Christchurch is really your best bet - hour and a half to Castle Hill with some sport on the edge of the city (me and the missus didn't make it to the Port crags - think they're pretty average). Plus up around Castle Hill there's all the walking and biking you could possibly want.

Auckland has better weather and is more like a city, but the nearby climbing looks wank.....

Do you not fancy Oz??

[spasmatron]

but can't imagine they're gagging for geotechnical engineers.....

Being the twat that I am, I actually gave up a job in Wanaka as a Geotech Engineer.     Granted it was a pretty basic job (I was digging my own trial pits with a spade), but I look back now and think "you bell end".

Awesome venue for everything you ever want to do.

OP - have a great trip and make sure you visit Mt Apsiring Hut before you leave.

[hongkongstuey]

Do you not fancy Oz??

another case of wheres the trousers  -  the misses thinks aussies are all racist red necks (probably not far off the truth) and doesn't wanna go there - think i've got more chance of getting her to Vancouver than Sydney.....

[runt]

ok, have tried to tick new zealand and fiji (got to that limestone sea cave fatboy, was quality) off to Oz starting at sydney next so has anybody got any essential venues/problems? v6/7 still
Thinking blue mountains and the grampians should be good?

ta very much again

 tanned and skint...runt

[Bonjoy]

You could always try hooking up with Carnage for a guided tour of Sydney bouldering. Sydney recomendations at that grade from me would include The Kyle Rule at the Den, Pockets of Resistance and Sloperdan Milosovich at the Frontline and Weak Ape Test Zone at the Wing Cave.
 Did you try any of my CH recomendations?

[runt]

Thanks for those bonjoy, and yeah I'll try and pick carnages brain.
Had a great time at the hill running about with the ukb ticklist, although it was determined to stay fairly unticked! Enjoyed the phonenix, but was far too hot for much else, that's my excuse anyway! thought the sorcerers apprentice was classic, and loads of mint easier stuff.
A

[Carnage]

ok, have tried to tick new zealand and fiji (got to that limestone sea cave fatboy, was quality) off to Oz starting at sydney next so has anybody got any essential venues/problems? v6/7 still
Thinking blue mountains and the grampians should be good?

ta very much again

 tanned and skint...runt

Blueys if you want roped stuff. Only bouldering there is XXXX cave. My recommendations would be:-

Y2K at the Trenches
Anorexic at Crumbly or Sushi Train if you're feeling strong
Something at Sissy (you've gotta got there)- Maybe Vitamin C or Mr Smiley or Travis (hard if 7 ok if
Pockets of Resistance & Sloperdan & Milo & Kofi (ace) @ the Frontline
Burgers at the Villas (Crack Attack there is cool too)
Queens Park has some good higballs and is easy to get to on public transport

Don't bother with Fox Cave unless you like fighting you way through the bush. The Wing hmmm, (Bonjoy likes it) but I thought it sucked, although Weak Ape Testzone is amazingly soft for 7.

[DrWong]

Best Areas if you are into steep to roof with decent holds are Sissy, Crumbly, Villas, Wing Cave, Queens Park, The Den. Most of the stuff at The Den and Crumbly is V8+. Queens Park is the easiest to get to with public transport.

If you are more into blocks, slabs, slopers and mantle top outs then Frontline, Trenches, Lindfield. Frontline and Trenches have the highest concentration of V5-V7 problems. Lindfield is mostly under V5.

Although this is a generalisation as there are steeper / slabbier problems at all these areas So you are sure to find a few V5-7 probs at these venues.

If you are after a nice aspect / surroundings and not too concerned about the quality or difficulty of problems then try Pearl Bay, Sandy Bay, Balls Head, Palm Beach.

Well known crags that I wouldn't recommend to the visitor are the Fear Factory, Fox Cave, Akuna Bay, Funky Town - mainly cause of the effort to find access / locate problems without a local knowledge and poor rock quality.

Bouldering in Nowra is also excellent but dependent on the conditions / temps at the moment. Steep powerful climbing on bullet rock. The Brothel and The Furnace are good.

Bouldering in the blueys (Powerplant / 4X) is ok if you are into slightly overhanging sharp crimps. Limited though and hard to find the established lines without a local guiding you. Tarana further west offers some scary granite slabbing.

Depends how much time you have but I would definitely leave a good stint for the Gramps. Best venues are:

1. HMC, Loopeys and Andersens.
2. Trackside Boulders. Kindergarten
3. Campground Boulders

Weak Ape Testzone is amazingly soft for 7.

Carnage is tall and Weak Ape Test Zone is morpho (unless you have t-rex arms

If you want to hook up with some locals post at www.vi-bouldering.com or pop into the bouldering area at Climbfit (climbing wall in St Leonards) on a Tuesday or Thursday night. Look for a strong, scary looking guy with man breasts called 'Buge' and tell him Dr Wong sent you.

[runt]

Thanks for the knowledge guys, look forward to checking some of those out. Then it's hit the beach time

[Carnage]

Hmmm, not the best of days to hit the beach- Its pissing down.  

[runt]

the travel agent never mentioned rain, I've been done

[Carnage]

Gonna be showery for a couple of days by the forecast. Still, at least its cooled down a bit.

Even now you can still climb at Crumbly and most of Sissy should be dry.

If you get desperate and depending on where you are there's good indoor walls at St Peters (2 stops from Central), St Leonards, (5 or 6 stops from Central), The Ledge (good place to meet people in the evenings) at Sydney Uni and the Northen Beaches Rockhouse (middle of nowhere).

[runt]

Crumbly sounds good! Thanks for the wall knowledge, could be a continuation of the plastic tour of new zealand if the rain keeps up!

[dontfollowme]

[runt]

hopefully jim won't have fix it for me....gettit

[runt]

[SA Chris]

Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?

Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?

[Bonjoy]

A few classics off the top of my head in that range. Ode to Joy and the V2 on the back of the same boulder, The Run Jump Slab, the V3 slab right of Money See Monkey Do, Bliss, Left and Right on the Headlights boulder, The Lung Dyno. Mmmm, there are shit loads of great problems in that range. Have a good one, i'm jealous.

[Bonjoy]

Never wen't to Wanaka. Payne's is in a really beautiful are and the climbing is fairly good, but not great when compared with quality euro limestone. A bit of a souped up Stoney with more bolts and friction, and some great swimming holes, including that mad roof boulder prob going out over the water.
 Elephant is very inferior to CH. The nearby Hulk Hogan is novel and worth a couple of days super steep jug slapping (shame about the mindless coloured crayon marking all the holds from some old climbing comp :roll: ). Have not heard of Rhino.
 Basically CH is where it's at NZ wise, everything else is of modest interest in comparison.