[SA Chris]

Taken at 10:30 after climbing on Solstice. Got last orders in too.

[Bubba]

This is an ace surfing pic:

[Mr.Burns]

Jaws again

[SA Chris]

Hot chicks who go surfing.

[Jim]

a new thread perhaps?

[Falling Down]

Here's some of my surfing and related pictures..



Mrs FD and yours truly took advantage of a mates wedding and did a a two week stay in Hawaii last Summer.  From April to September, the North Shore is flat but the South Shore gets all the swell from the Pacific.  I had a really nice 6'6" single fin 'Egg' board shaped by Donald Takayama before I went out and we stayed in a hotel overlooking Kaisers, Ala Moana's and 3's - all famous Sth Shore breaks if anyone is familiar with surfing history.  The girl in the picture above was typical of the line-up - makes a change from a bearded grumpy Yorkshireman...



A pic from Ala Moana's taken from the balcony of our hotel room - this was the typical surf each day.  You hear horror stories of localism at Hawaii breaks but every'ting was cool when I was there.



Closer to home. Saltburn, September 2004 on a nice mid week swell.



Some guy coming in from a late evening surf at Kaisers, Waikiki.



More Saltburn.....

[Falling Down]

A pic from last Saturday at Huntington Pier, Orange County, Ca.  I was in the US working for a week and spent the weekend with a mate who I met on surfing trip in Barbados.  He showed me some spots over last weekend & I got to surf the famous Huntington Pier which was taking a reasonable swell.  It looks crowded but it's really 'peaky' so it spreads everybody out.  I got loadsa waves which was a nice treat - it was a bit bigger than it looks in this photo 'cos it's shot looking down from the pier......



Another Huntington shot.. we got to surf Oxnard on Sunday which is a place I've always wanted to visit since the Campbell brothers invented their Bonzer 5 fin design there in the 70's.



A BMX'er at Venice Beach during a comp....



An in-liner doing a big air - this guy is apparently one of the top geezers at this (rather sh*t IMHO) sport - impressive, but the whole thing still sucks....

[Falling Down]

Some pics from the ex-climbers Mentawai trip a couple of years back.... Some of these are Jason Myers and Pete Buko's photo's.  We had a 13 day trip to the island chain that's rated as the best surfing venue in the world. It was during SARS and the Iraq War so the place was deserted and we had places like Hollow Trees (Lances Right), E-Bay, Lance's Left, PLaygrounds etc to ourselves.



The Crainefly cutting back at Bobocks....



The Wainright paddling in - He got SO nailed on this trip.. I have video footage of him going over the falls and doing a somersault INSIDE the barrel  



Yrs truly (L) and the Wainright (R) at Scarecrows... how good does that wave look??? Needless to say I paddled for it and got one of the many rides of my life....



Unknown guy at Hollow Tree's/Lances Right - an iconic spot.. we were psyched!

[SA Chris]

One word, Ben.

WANKER  :

I'm not jealous or anything.

[Mr.Burns]

Not sure where this is but a good pic, watched a quality documentary about big wave surfing at mavericks and other spots the other night, those guys are sick!!!

[SA Chris]

Riding Giants?

[rowena]

I'm not jealous or anything.

Ho hum, me neither ! Errrrr, it's been as flat as a pancake on the east coast for WEEKS now  

[Mr.Burns]

Riding Giants?

Not sure, it talked about Mavericks, Waimea and Jaws and when Mark Foo drowned. It was a really good film!

[SA Chris]

I think it might well be, all those bits are in it. The section with Greg Knoll riding something huge on North Shore is done using drawings, as there was no footage?

[Falling Down]

The pic is of a break called Teahopuu in Tahiti on a big swell...

[Mr.Burns]

The section with Greg Knoll riding something huge on North Shore is done using drawings, as there was no footage?

Yeah there were some drawings. Was it Mavericks that was ridden for 15 years before Jeff Clark (I think it was he?) told anyone about it?

[a dense loner]

then there is some truth to the rumour that everything was done years ago

watched the opening footage of some big wave riding at clm's  

[Falling Down]

Jeff Clark rode Mavericks pretty much by himself for 10 to 15 years before it suddenly appeared on the map in about 93/94.  He did tell people about it but it was a combination of Hawaiian snobbery (that no where could get as good as Waimea/Log Cabins etc.), the draw of Todos Santos in Baja which was traditionally where Californian big wave surfing gravitated towards and the fact that Mavericks is a cold-water venue which was off putting for lots of people.

I've not seen Riding Giants myself but the Greg Noll story will either be about Pipeline (he was the first to ride it and the first to ride it when it was breaking out at the third reef) or about his 'slaying the dragon' at Makaha when he paddled into what was by far the biggest wave ever attempted and perhaps still today represents the pinnacle of what is possible without artificial assistance (jet ski's, helicopters etc.) - he stopped surfing the moment he'd done it and hasn't ridden a surfboard since.

[Mr.Burns]

..because it shit him up or because he knew it wouldn't get any better?

[Falling Down]

..because it shit him up or because he knew it wouldn't get any better?

Both IIRC, but more the latter as the former tends to fade with time.  He said something akin to 'I'd done everything I'd wanted to do'.  Its covered well in a great book by Dan Duane (who also wrote a great Yosemite book) called Caught Inside which is one of the best books on surfing.

[SA Chris]

Have you read "Eddie would Go" Ben?

[Falling Down]

Have you read "Eddie would Go" Ben?

Not yet.. it's on my birthday list though so I will have done soon I hope.

[Bubba]

Found this site linked from metafilter t'other day - it's all accidentally shared photos found on the web/p2p/etc.

http://www.10eastern.com/foundphotos/

There's a lot of dross, but some serious entertainment/weirdness is to be had:







#

[Johnny Brown]

Int that Andi T on the beach? No wonder he moved to Leek...

[Mr.Burns]

A cool picture IMO.