[iforwms]

I followed lagerstafish's instructions and here's what I came up with. They didn't have any 18mm ply offcuts in B&Q but so I had to use 18mm MDF, seems to be OK so far. I've attached a drawing if you want to follow what I did...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/114823/Powerbar%2BBM.zip

With only an 18mm backboard the 4 smaller screws that come with the Beasmaker (1000) are too long, so I used M4x60mm machine screws instead, need to trim the ends off at some point. Wokrs nicely, and you can also rotate the blocks so it locks the PowerBar in place for easy storage/transport.

Here's a video of the frame in action. (It is the right side of the doorframe flexing slightly causing the board to move a bit, not the frame itself).



-Ifor

[GCW]

Looks good.

I would suggest your shoulders look a bit slack in the hangs though.

[robertostallioni]

I'd probably go for a grade 2/3 at the sides though, which would go seamlessly into the stubble, but maybe stick with a 4 on top. It's not to everybody's taste but its how I roll....

[Probes]

If i were you dude, id stick a few holds in that loft hatch, then you can obviously do some moves into/up & down to them from the breastmaker.

[joe dobson]

hoping to build a campus in my garage over summer, i'm going to make the rungs myself as its cheaper (same thickness as the metolius ones, and maybe some slopers) but just wondering which wood i should use? I was thinking pine but unsure if its the best wood for the job. Any suggestions?

[Probes]

Ive heard there's a chap called Probes (summit to do with crusher holds) who's been knocking up campus rungs for his mates, he can do them for cheap if you ask nicely.
Otherwise, wood... pine is not the best, go for a hardwood, mahogany (suprisingly cheap to buy), beech, ash something like that, a lot of stuff inc rungs that are out in the shops are made from tulipwood, which is great, slightly harder than pine but is very stringy and hard to work by hand.
Good luck

[Monolith]

I'm on a super tight budget at the minute and am going to get one of these bad boys to do some home bar work on:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-GYM-PULL-UP-CHIN-UP-BAR-IRON-ABS-EXERCISE-FITNESS-/110855228566?pt=UK_Strength_Training&hash=item19cf7c8c96

My question is, do any of you that have made the Powerbar fingerboard setup (Lagers, iforwms et al.) reckon you could come up with a similar solution for this cheaper bar? At under a tenner, it'd be an absolute steal if I could get a rig going.

Urgently looking to get underway with this so any thoughts appreciated! Cheers.

[galpinos]

Monolith,

I've a powerbar thing with a low rent home hade wooden attachment for a beastmaker you can have? It's no great feat of engineering though (made from left overs from when I built my shed.

Turns out my nice turn of the century door frames aren't a solid as I'd like so I'm building a permanent frame in the loft for the board.

Based in Manchester.

[Monolith]

Galpinos, I shall pm you now. Thanks!

[Bonham18]

haven't seen this method of mounting a fingerboard on a pullup bar before, looks brilliant http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2615309;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;

[jonxmack]

First post here but hopefully it'll be useful to people who have access to loft hatches in their houses.

I have just started climbing (a week ago) but I am already really enjoying it, been three times so far and going again tonight, but as it's pretty expensive to go and only climb for an hour before my fingers are sore, I wanted to be able to work out in my house.

I knew I wouldn't be able to drill the walls, and was reluctant to buy a pull up bar and try and mount something on there, so instead I utilised my loft hatch.

All it is is a 2.4m length of 2x4" cut into three pieces. The upper piece is 56", which is 18" wider then the hatch on each side. Then the two lower bits are both 20" wide (the width of the loft hatch). The reason I've used two is because on the left hand side across the rafters is an old door, so I needed to add a spacer piece on the right hand side to make up for the difference in height, which meant that one lower piece of 2x4 wouldn't be enough to sit down in the hatch to prevent it moving from left to right.

I plan on mounting the rock rings on hooks in the next few days, but as I couldn't find any suitable I am currently making the best of a bad situation. Also the fact I've got the three pieces stacked means  that I could potentially mount a fingerboard on there without too much issue.

In terms of flex/movement, there is none. I only weigh 68kg but there's not even a creak from the rafters, which is positive. I did a few pull ups and dead hangs and it held fine, so hopefully it should allow me to train a few times a week to build up my strength.

[a dense loner]

Good effort, I'd sand the top 2 edges off tho so you won't come back to earth with a bang, the cord will cut through pretty easily if you hang much weight off it over time

[cattclan]

Hi - hope you can help...

I am a keen climber and also not bad with the old hammer and screw driver - so much so that a friend of mine who runs a low key gym facility (we are talking in a converted farm building (although pretty decent!), has asked if I will design and build a relatively small climbing/bouldering wall/area, with the aim of him expanding the options he offers at the facility.

I understand he has public liability for the current equipment he has on offer (ranging from free weights, a number of weight machines and so on) but I am unsure if this would cover the use of any 'set up' I would build for him.

Does anyone know, or have thoughts on the following:

If I built this would I need any insurance for its use thereafter? What if it collapsed 6 months down the line (whether due to shoddy workmanship (I think not!) or the facilities it was built within being of not great 'waterproof' protection?)
If someone fell off the wall 3 months down the line and hurt themselves (no fault of the wall) would I be liable as I originally built it - or the owner as its within his facility?

Lastly if the wall itself was likely to only be used by a few people - mainly me! but also a few mates - and people didnt pay anything for using it would I/we have to get any insurance at all or just either get the odd person to sign a waiver or simply say use at your own risk?

Any help appreciated on the topic

[Bencil]

Has anyone built a doorway campus board?

Are they any good? Slightly concerned about hitting legs on the side of the doorway and making sure it doesn't fall down. Ideally I'd like to be able to do proper campus moves on it but I'd still be happy with just feet on laddering for getting a pump on.

I'm considering building one that would be put away when not in use. What kind of methods have people used to attach it to the doorway?

Any other tips?  Thanks!

[Reprobate_Rob]

Any other tips?  Thanks!

Some good tips in this thread - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3263.0.html

[erm, sam]

I have made a doorway campus board using plywood cups screwed to the door frame to seat dowels to support the campus board. I will try to remember to put some photos up.

[r-man]

I've got a doorway campus board that hooks over pullup bars. The top bar stays in the doorway, but there's also a bottom bar which stops the board swinging - I put this away when I take down the board.

There's not enough height in a doorway for a full campus 7 rungs (unless your ceiling is much higher than the door and you extend the board above the top of the doorway) but what I've got is a board with small holds which I can campus up, from a sitstart. For my purposes this is more useful than campussing because it works the fingers, but it's probably not the best setup for power endurance.

[Eddies]

You can mount a fingerboard or small campus board direct to plasterboard using M8 blue 'Grip It Fixings' if you need to: http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/pdfs/gripitfixings-brochure-2014.pdf

[rodma]

You can mount a fingerboard or small campus board direct to plasterboard using M8 blue 'Grip It Fixings' if you need to: http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/pdfs/gripitfixings-brochure-2014.pdf

Good find, but..

I'd be a little bit wary of that, too reliant on the original intaller of plasterboard's workmanship and sturdiness of the plasterboard in question, the rear face could easily already be damaged without your knowledge, or the plasterboard could have gotten soaked during the construction process. these will likely be things outwith your control.

Much more robust to fix ply to the studs and then mount the fingerboard, assuming timber stud. otherwise sandwich ply back to back on either face of the doorway (above the facing if you want to be neat) and bolt the two together, then mount fingerboard or mini campus board.

anyway, that's ma two pee's* worth (assuming Scotland readdopts the pee in a month's time)

*Pee: a hunnerth of a poond

[Luke Owens]

I'm in the process of building a campus board and I'm a bit stumped...

It might seem like a stupid question but what is the easiest way to cut an angle into a piece of wood like in the speech bubble on the picture below? I only have a hand saw and a jigsaw to use.

Cheers

[rodma]

If it's for at the junction you have shown just tilt the timber so that its face sits flush against the rear face of the plywood.

If you have to cut down the length then you can tilt the base of the jigsaw if this model allows it, or put a packer on top of the length of timber so the jigsaw sits at an angle, or cut right down the length with a hand saw.

[slackline]

[standard]

Guessing that's a prototype that ste has been given?
You can't buy those rung sizes either.

[PipeSmoke]

Looks cool. Wonder when it will be about

[Duma]

Put together. Looks good!