[Bubba]

what should go in here?

Initial ideas:

- Why is it called campusing? (history re Gullich, etc)
- What are the "regulation" rung sizes and spacing?
- Links  to rung suppliers
- Pics of campus boards
- Vids of people campusing
- What is the correct angle for board?
- Campusing techniques / workouts / benefits / dangers

[Fingers of a Martyr]

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto.htm the campus board bit has loads of info bubbs

as far as what to include i'd go for all the stuff u mentioned minus the pics and vids.

[Stubbs]

Thought i'd get in quickly with the Gresham gurn


PlanetI'mSoGoddamnExtreme has an article about exercise routines here

[vivahate]

from Indoorclimbing.com

Who Needs Campusing?
In autumn 1991 the late Wolfgang Gullich redpointed Action Directe, a very steep route with shallow finger pockets.  At 8c+ (34?), it was the hardest sport route in the world.  Gullich's training for the route: climbing using only one finger of each hand, feet hanging free, on an overhanging ladder of wooden first-joint finger edges.  This was the original campus board (named for its location in the Campus Gym at Nurnberg, Germany)

Campus boards, says Jerry Moffatt, are best used for increasing power, “which is what we all want and need”.  Moffatt has been training on campus boards since 1987 and continues to do so today.  Although campusing could also be used for endurance, Moffatt feels its not the best way, plus the repetitive easy moves endurance training requires could be injurious, boring and give you blisters.

Jim Karn believes that campusing is best used for working on specific weaknesses: If you're poor at locking off open-handed, practise open handed lock-offs on a campus board.  If your problem is long dynos, do long dynos.  If you can't identify specific weaknesses, or if you want to improve your all-around power, Karn believes bouldering on short powerful problems is of greater benefit than campusing.

Why They Work

There are two basic ways your muscles get stronger.  One is by increasing fibre size; the other is by teaching your nervous system to recruit more fibres into single contractions.  Campusing primarily improves the latter.  As your hands hit the rungs the sudden loading teaches your nervous system to fire more muscle fibres at a time.  Thee result: more power.

The Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym Campus Board

Its modelled on the “School Room” board used by Jerry Moffatt, Ben Moon and others in Sheffield, England.  It has nine rungs with 22 cm spacing, with three sizes of rung.

Safety

Try to use open-handed grips as much as possible.  Crimping is more likely to injure your fingers.  When used correctly, a campus board can actually  strengthen your tendons to prevent injury.  Placing heavy loads on your tendons causes them to grow and strengthen, but there's a fine line between training that stimulates tendon growth and that which causes injury.

Warm up adequately first.  As well as your normal climbing warm up, boulder hard for at least half an hour before campusing.

How to Use It

Break you workout into sets and reps.  Jim Karn does six reps per set, three each on each hand.  Rest between sets, with longer rests to emphasise explosive power and shorter rests to work power endurance.

Hand over Hand
Go up and down rungs using an open-handed four finger grip without any support from the feet.  To emphasise finger power, use increasingly smaller edges.  To increase lock off power, skip rungs and try to do moves more statically.

Drop Backs
Start with both hands on a rung.  Pulling as fast as possible, touch, but don't hold, a higher rung then immediately drop back to the first.  Without pausing, repeat with the other hand, aiming for about 12 high speed reps.

Double Dynos
Go up two hands at a time instead of one.

Negatives
Start at the top and descend.  Depending on your strength compared to the size of the edge, you'll either come down slowly or have to snatch as fast as possible between rungs.  The former increases muscle size, the latter trains recruitment.  When you plateau on one, move to the other to improve.

Projects
Get to the top with as few moves as possible, starting with both hands on the bottom.  Going 1-5-9 on the smallest rungs was a popular project with Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt.

Use less fingers
for any of the above.



and an amazing link on how to build one http://www.indoorclimbing.com/campusboard.html

[Bubba]

Its modelled on the “School Room” board used by Jerry Moffatt, Ben Moon and others in Manchester, England

 :?

[vivahate]

:roll:

[neil@canaryclimbs]

YO mullet boy,



Did young keenus tell you about the wall, were here is the begining of it


 

[Monolith]

Just finished my masterpiece. A non-fixed mini doorway campus board not vastly dissimilar from the one S7 used to market. Utilises 2 pullup bars, some hooks available from Screwfix direct and some cunning design touches. I'll be sure to put some paintshop pro pics up in the next day or two. Peace and fucking BELIEVE.

[BenF]

Mono, do you think that you have enough training facilities now?  What with working at a wall, being part of the board share and now having built your own campus board.

[Monolith]

It doesn't end there Ben. My room is quickly becoming a fully fledged training facility in itself. You should see the board I have planned for the coming weeks. You won't stand a chance

[BenF]

It doesn't end there Ben. My room is quickly becoming a fully fledged training facility in itself. You should see the board I have planned for the coming weeks. You won't stand a chance

Come on then! 

I'm currently converting my flat into a mantel training facility whilst Caryl is away.  By the time she returns on Friday I reckon the full 360 degree "mantel rink" will be ready and the stairs will be just a long curved slopey arete with no footholds.  Even having a bath will involve hanging off fat pinches.  You can crimp all you like mate, but slopers is where its at innit like yeah.

[chappers]

ive been down to toms house and had supplied him with some propper rungs, lucky because prior to this he had some hideous half cm home made jobs that were impossible to even dead hang  this boy is going to get strong with all this equiptment!

[Dave Westlake]

OK guys,  ive got one of these weird style pull up bars that just kind of fit onto the doorway :

http://www.gizoo.co.uk/Products/HealthFitness/Fitness/Powerbar.htm

Does anyone know if either of the following are possible - 1)  attach a fingerboard (and ply backing) to the bar and make it stay in the right place (ie somehow bolt it on and stop it from spinning)

2)  fit a small campus board onto it (like that doorway one mccleods got- theres a pic of it somewhere cant remember where)

the second option sounds similar to what monolith talks about ?  Any photos monolith?? id be interested to see how youve done yours!

cheers, i am the least practically minded person in the world so i need all the help i can get when it comes to such things!

dave

[sammm]

does it feel sturdy and secure? Looking at the picture on the website, hangling/clinging to the door frame it looks like it'd come crashing down any second.

[Dave Westlake]

yeah its ok - theres a very tiny bit of flex but its fine for doing pull ups

[Monolith]

Dave, sure i'll put some pictures up as soon as I'm back at my place. It's a very simple yet ingenious design for those living in rented accomodation with a moderately high ceiling.

[chappers]

Dave, sure i'll put some pictures up as soon as I'm back at my place. It's a very simple yet ingenious design for those living in rented accomodation with a moderately high ceiling.

and you have to start bum first. (how was magic woods?).

dave, i think that there is no chance! the motion of campussing will make it fall down straight away if it was attatched to that pull up ooojeewatsit. and...ignore what tom says, YOU could not build what he has, far too hard (his dad has mad skills with tools to pull that off). just put up your finger board like normal, and polly filla the holes when you leave, (in a body bag if you take my advice and get a room in that estate!!)

[205Chris]

Does anyone know if either of the following are possible - 1)  attach a fingerboard (and ply backing) to the bar and make it stay in the right place (ie somehow bolt it on and stop it from spinning)

2)  fit a small campus board onto it (like that doorway one mccleods got- theres a pic of it somewhere cant remember where)

This is exactly what I've done with my fingerboard. Haven't got any photos to hand but basically I mounted my fingerboard to a piece of 3/4" ply and then got two blocks of 3" by 2", cut out a slot the width of the pull up bar and screwed them to the back of the plywood board. This then allows you to hang your fingerboard on your pull up bar, but won't stop it pivoting.

I'm sure there's loads of ways to stop it pivoting but I basically made a brace out of another piece of 3" by 2" that goes from the back of the plywood board to the lower part of the pull up bar.

It's surprisingly sturdy, though I only tend to use it for deadhanging rather than pull ups.

A word of caution, make sure you use plywood for the backing board, on my first attempt I didn't and ended up in a heap on the floor with a fingerboard on my head.

I'll try and get some photos of it as I've probably made it sound really complicated. In reality it's not too difficult and I think I spent less than a tenner at B & Q sorting everything I needed.

Chris

[Monolith]

Chappers, the first move in itself would probably get 8a+ if I cross reference woz's mooted grades. I dispensed with the idea of having to start with a rung beneath your chest, it requires beastliness way beyond anyone.

I've modified the bottom of the board with a grid of screw on crimps and slopers. A foot board has been included for doing small circuits with the option to go into campus moves if required. Pretty faithful to the nature of many problems I hope you will concur..

I WILL get these pictures up soon.

[chappers]

Pretty faithful to the nature of many problems I hope you will concur..

indeed every problem should have some form of nonsense at the start, followed by some campus moves feet off. very good.

as for mounting a finger board on pull up bar, that sounds like quite a good idea, i still doubt daves ability to pull it off mind, ill go round with some tools once he moves in, that way he can start to train, rather than just ticking off 8a like he does already. 

[Jaspersharpe]

Any pictures of this cunning "fingerboard attached to PowerBar" arrangement yet lads?

[chappers]

ha ha. it is still yet to be transfered from my planner into the real world.
i am also yet to go to shottingham to see what dave is banging on about, he does have access to their woodie so i ask you...what is the point?!

[Jaspersharpe]

My mate's just ordered one of these Powerbar things with the intention of making a portable fingerboard. Should he complete the project before you slack gets get round to posting any pictures (likely) I will post the results. If it is a success then I'll be commissioning one as it seems a top idea.

[lagerstarfish]

My mate's just ordered one of these Powerbar things with the intention of making a portable fingerboard. Should he complete the project before you slack gets get round to posting any pictures (likely) I will post the results. If it is a success then I'll be commissioning one as it seems a top idea.

Hi Jaz. I built two today. I'll come round with yours tomorrow.
For anyone else interested in a board for deadhanging that you can carry around and will fit most doors, here are some details. You will need a Powerbar to start with - see ebay etc.

this is the general idea. only one rung at the moment and nicely decorated with felt pen by my daughter.

 
the top is just a long "hook" made of wood. I'm going to sand it down to be the warm up rail.

 
the bottom is just a block of wood that stops the board swinging/moving towards the door frame by resting against the diagonal strut of the powerbar (the angle of which changes according to the size of door frame and the width of the wall). There is a slot in the main board so that the block of wood can be moved up and down - this means that the board can be adjusted easily to hang vertically on doors of diferent sizes (cool if yoy are travelling with it). A wing nut and carriage bolt fix it when at the right hight.

front view of the slot. Its an M10 carriage bolt and the slot is 10mm wide, so the head stays fixed while the wing nut at the other end is tightened - works great.


board lifts off the Powerbar and the whole thing folds flat - this is Jasper's ready for him to add rungs to.
Its fine for dead hanging, levers and pullups, but I wouldn't go jumping about on it.
B&Q were very helpfull with cheap off cuts of wood (inc 18mm ply!), and I only had to by a couple of fixings
Cheers
Rob

[Jaspersharpe]